Krzysztof Wielicki

2025-10-09T11:17:25Z

89.79.235.36: /* External links */ I added official webiste

{{short description|Polish mountaineer (born 1950)}}
{{Infobox climber
| image = 2018 - Pol’and’Rock Festival - Krzysztof Wielicki 02.jpg
| image_size = 220px
| caption = Wielicki at the [[Pol'and'Rock Festival]] 2018
| name = Krzysztof Wielicki
| birth_date = {{Birth date and age|df=yes|1950|1|5}}
| birth_place = [[Szklarka Przygodzicka]], [[Poland]]
| nationality = Polish
| death_date =
| death_place =
| typeofclimber =
| highestgrade =
| knownfor = First to climb [[Mount Everest]], [[Kangchenjunga]], and [[Lhotse]] in winter
| namedroutes =
| website =
}}
'''Krzysztof Jerzy Wielicki''' (Polish pronunciation: {{IPAc-pl|'|k|sz|y|sz|t|o|f|-|w|j|e|'|l|i|c|k|J|i}}; born 5 January 1950) is a Polish mountaineer, regarded as one of the greatest Polish climbers in history. He is the 5th man to climb all fourteen [[eight-thousander]]s and the first ever to climb [[Mount Everest]], [[Kangchenjunga]], and [[Lhotse]] in winter. He is a member of [[The Explorers Club]].

==Life==
He was born on 5 January 1950 in [[Szklarka Przygodzicka]], [[Greater Poland]]. He graduated from the [[Wrocław University of Science and Technology]] (WUST) where he studied [[electronics]]. He chaired the Tourism Committee in the [[Polish Students' Association]] at the Faculty of Electronics at the WUST. He started climbing in Sokoliki in May 1970. In 1972, he participated in his first climbing course and a winter camp led by [[Wanda Rutkiewicz]].<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.newsweek.pl/polska/spoleczenstwo/krzysztof-wielicki-kim-jest-legendarny-himalaista/34ndxnx |title=W Newsweeku: Czy Krzysztof Wielicki poprowadzi jeszcze Polaków w Himalaje? |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://himalman.wordpress.com/2007/11/06/krzysztof-wielicki-version-polish-and-english/ |title=Krzysztof Wielicki the famous Polish climber |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref>

In 1973, he achieved first major international climbing successes during a camp in the [[Dolomites]]. Together with Bogdan Nowaczyk, he became the first climber to complete within one day the Via Italiano-Francese on Punta Civetta. He later travelled to climb in the [[Caucasus Mountains]], [[Hindu Kush]] and [[Pamir Mountains]].

On 17 February 1980, as a member of Polish national expedition led by [[Andrzej Zawada]], Wielicki and [[Leszek Cichy]] reached the summit of Everest and, in doing so, they became the first to climb an eight-thousander in the winter.<ref name=EvW>{{cite journal | title = Mount Everest – The First Winter Ascent | journal =Alpine Journal| date= 1984| first =Andrzej | last = Zawada | volume =#89 |issue =333 | pages=50–59 | access-date = 9 April 2024 |url = https://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1984_files/AJ%201984%2050-59%20Zawada%20Everest.pdf }}</ref> He was also the first to make successful winter ascents of [[Mount Everest]], [[Kangchenjunga]], and [[Lhotse]], three out of four highest mountains in the world.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/05/09/sports/polish-climbers-to-scale-deadly-k2-peak-in-winter.html |title=Scaling the World's Most Lethal Mountain, in the Dead of Winter |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref><ref>{{cite news |url=https://sport.onet.pl/alpinizm/35-lat-temu-leszek-cichy-i-krzysztof-wielicki-jako-pierwsi-zdobyli-zima-mount-everest/mnchc |title=35 lat temu Leszek Cichy i Krzysztof Wielicki jako pierwsi zdobyli zimą Mount Everest |access-date=2019-07-13 |archive-date=2020-11-30 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201130173326/https://sport.onet.pl/alpinizm/35-lat-temu-leszek-cichy-i-krzysztof-wielicki-jako-pierwsi-zdobyli-zima-mount-everest/mnchc |url-status=dead }}</ref>

He climbed [[Broad Peak]] during a solo expedition and made the first ever ascent of an eight-thousander from a base within 24 hours. He climbed [[Dhaulagiri]] and [[Shishapangma]] alone establishing new routes. He also made a solo ascent of [[Gasherbrum II]] and [[Nanga Parbat]], a feat that was only witnessed by a few Pakistani shepherds. He participated in a number of expeditions on K2. In 1996, he made an ascent of the mountain along the north pillar together with two Italian climbers.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.newsweek.pl/polska/spoleczenstwo/krzysztof-wielicki-kim-jest-legendarny-himalaista/34ndxnx |title=W Newsweeku: Czy Krzysztof Wielicki poprowadzi jeszcze Polaków w Himalaje? |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref>

He organized the 2002-2003 Polish winter expedition on K2, which failed to reach the summit. He made another attempt to climb an eight-thousander in the winter by organizing an expedition on Nanga Parbat (2006-2007) but was forced to turn back due to adverse weather conditions. In 2013, he led an expedition to climb Broad Peak in the winter. On 5 March, [[Adam Bielecki (climber)|Adam Bielecki]], {{Ill|Artur Małek|pl}}, [[Maciej Berbeka]] and {{Ill|Tomasz Kowalski (climber)|lt=Tomasz Kowalski|pl|Tomasz Kowalski (wspinacz)}} reached the summit for the first time in history during winter (Berbeka and Kowalski died while descending from the mountain).<ref>{{cite journal | title = Broad Peak (8,047m), first winter ascent and tragedy | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=2013| issn= 0065-6925 | first =Lindsay | last = Griffin | isbn= 978-1933056791 | volume =#55 |issue= 87 | pages= 297–299 | access-date =25 May 2024 |url = https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/13201212507/Broad-Peak-8047m-first-winter-ascent-and-tragedy }}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.newsweek.pl/polska/spoleczenstwo/krzysztof-wielicki-kim-jest-legendarny-himalaista/34ndxnx |title=W Newsweeku: Czy Krzysztof Wielicki poprowadzi jeszcze Polaków w Himalaje? |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref> In 2018, he led another unsuccessful expedition to reach the summit of K2 in the winter.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-europe-43286857 |title=Polish mountaineers end attempt to climb K2 in winter |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref>

In January 2022, he released his autobiography entitled ''Solo. Moje samotne wspinaczki'' (Solo. My Solitary Climbs) which "delves into the climber’s circumstances, emotions and motivations that led him to undertake each of his solitary ascents".<ref>{{cite web| url = https://www.thefirstnews.com/article/alpine-legend-krzysztof-wielicki-takes-readers-inside-the-mind-of-solo-mountaineering-in-new-tell-all-biography-27180 |title=Alpine legend Krzysztof Wielicki takes readers inside the mind of solo mountaineering in new tell-all biography | access-date = 11 January 2022}}</ref>

==Recognition==
In 2001, he received the [[Lowell Thomas Award]] conferred by The Explorers Club. He was awarded the [[Commander]]'s Cross of the [[Order of Polonia Restituta]] in 2003, for his outstanding achievements in [[alpinism]] and for popularizing the sport of climbing. In 2015, he was awarded Wrocław University of Science and Technology Medal for his achievements in alpinism.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://wroclaw.naszemiasto.pl/artykul/zjazd-absolwentow-i-zwiedzanie-politechniki-wroclawskiej,3210547,artgal,t,id,tm.html |title=Zjazd absolwentów i zwiedzanie Politechniki Wrocławskiej |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref>

In 2017, the [[International Astronomical Union]] approved the name of [[asteroid]] discovered by [[Vincenzo Silvano Casulli]] as [[173094 Wielicki]] in honour of the Polish climber.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://ssd.jpl.nasa.gov/sbdb.cgi?sstr=173094 |title=JPL Small-Body Database Browser |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref>

In 2018, he received jointly with [[Reinhold Messner]] the [[Princess of Asturias Award]] in the category of Sports.<ref>{{cite news |url=https://www.fpa.es/en/princess-of-asturias-awards/laureates/2018-reinhold-messner-and-krzysztof-wielicki.html?especifica=0 |title=PRINCESS OF ASTURIAS AWARD FOR SPORTS 2018 |access-date=2019-07-13 |archive-date=2019-07-13 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190713173656/https://www.fpa.es/en/princess-of-asturias-awards/laureates/2018-reinhold-messner-and-krzysztof-wielicki.html%3Fespecifica%3D0 |url-status=dead }}</ref> The 2019 [[Piolet d'Or]] was awarded in September 2019 to Wielicki as the 11th Lifetime Achievement award.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.pioletsdor.net/index.php/en/the-lifetime-achievement-award |title=The Lifetime Achievement Award |access-date=2020-02-29}}</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.planetmountain.com/en/news/alpinism/krzysztof-wielicki-awarded-piolet-dor-lifetime-achievement-award.html |title=Krzysztof Wielicki awarded Piolet d'Or Lifetime Achievement Award |access-date=2019-07-13}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web|url=https://wspinanie.pl/2019/06/krzysztof-wielicki-piolet-dor-carriere/|title = Piolet d'Or Carrière dla Krzysztofa Wielickiego!}}</ref>

==Major ascents==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Year
! Mountain
! Height (in metres)
! Remarks
|-
|1980
|[[Mount Everest]]
|8848
|First winter ascent of an 8000-meter peak (with [[Leszek Cichy]])<ref name=EvW/>
|-
|1984
|[[Broad Peak]]
|8051
|First one-day ascent of an 8000-meter peak (solo)
|-
| 1984, 1992
|[[Manaslu]]
|8163
|New route on the South-South-East Face
|-
|1986
|[[Kangchenjunga]]
|8586
|First winter ascent of Kangchenjunga (with [[Jerzy Kukuczka]])<ref name=KW-hj>{{cite journal | title = Kangchenjunga climbed in winter | journal =Himalayan Journal| date= 1987| first =Andrzej | last = Machnik | volume =#43 | pages= 7–9 | access-date = 10 April 2024 |url = https://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/43/3/kangchenjunga-climbed-in-winter/ }}</ref><ref name=KW-jk>{{cite book | title = My Vertical World: Climbing the 8000-Metre Peaks | date=1992| first = Jerzy| last = Kukuczka | isbn = 0340534850 |publisher =Hodder & Stoughton | access-date = 10 April 2024 | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=-3ATAQAAIAAJ&q=My+Vertical+World:+Climbing+the+8000-Metre+Peaks }}</ref>
|-
|1986
|[[Makalu]]
|8485
|[[Alpine style]]
|-
|1988
|[[Lhotse]]
|8516
|First winter ascent of Lhotse (solo)<ref>{{cite journal | title = Asia, Nepal, Everest Attempt, Tragedy and Winter Ascent of Lhotse | journal =American Alpine Journal| date=1989| issn= 0065-6925| first =Herman | last = Detienne | isbn= 9780930410391| volume =#31 |issue =63 | pages=203–204 | access-date = 20 May 2024 |url = http://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12198920302/Asia-Nepal-Everest-Attempt-Tragedy-and-Winter-Ascent-of-Lhotse }}</ref>
|-
|1990
|[[Dhaulagiri]]
|8167
|New route, solo expedition
|-
|1991
|[[Annapurna Massif]]
|8091
|[[Chris Bonington|Bonington]] route
|-
|1993
|[[Cho Oyu]]
|8201
|Polish route
|-
|1993
|[[Shishapangma]]
|8027
|New route on the South Face, solo expedition, in 24 hours
|-
|1995, 2006
|[[Gasherbrum II]]
|8035
|Solo expedition
|-
|1995
|[[Gasherbrum I]]
|8080
|[[Alpine style]]
|-
|1996
|[[K2]]
|8611
|Japanese route
|-
|1996
|[[Nanga Parbat]]
|8126
|Kinshofer route, solo expedition<ref>{{cite book | title = Freedom Climbers | date=2018| first = Bernadette| last = McDonald | isbn = 9781906148447 |publisher =Vertebrate Publishing |pages=208–210 | access-date = 2 July 2024 | url = https://books.google.com/books?id=TQHgAgAAQBAJ&q=Freedom+Climbers+by+Mcdonald+Bernadette }}</ref>
|}

==See also==
*[[Jerzy Kukuczka]]
*[[Wanda Rutkiewicz]]
*[[List of eight-thousanders]]

{{S-start}}
{{S-ach|aw}}
{{succession box|title=[[Princess of Asturias Awards#Sports (Deportes)|Princess of Asturias Award for Sports]] (with [[Reinhold Messner]])
|before=[[New Zealand national rugby union team]]|after=[[Lindsey Vonn]]|years=2018}}
{{S-end}}

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
* [http://www.russianclimb.com/k2/interview.html Interview with Krzysztof Wielicki]
* [http://himalman.wordpress.com/2007/11/06/krzysztof-wielicki-version-polish-and-english/ Krzysztof Wielicki the famous Polish climber./ Version polish and english /]
* [http://himalman.wordpress.com/2007/11/13/krzysztof-wielicki-polish-winter-expedition-1980-part-1/ Krzysztof Wielicki - Polish Winter Expedition 1980]
* [http://himalman.wordpress.com/2008/01/02/polish-winter-expedition-to-k2-20023-version-polish-and-english/ Polish winter expedition to K2, 2002/3 /Version polish and english/]
* [https://wielicki.me/ The official website of Krzysztof Wielicki]

{{Princess of Asturias Award for Sports}}
{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Wielicki, Krzysztof}}
[[Category:1950 births]]
[[Category:Living people]]
[[Category:Polish mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Polish summiters of Mount Everest]]
[[Category:Summiters of all 14 eight-thousanders]]
[[Category:People from Ostrzeszów County]]
[[Category:Sportspeople from Greater Poland Voivodeship]]
[[Category:Summiters of K2]]
[[Category:Piolet d'Or winners]]
[[Category:Summiters of Broad Peak]]

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Krzysztof Wielicki