View source for Baltistan

{{Short description|Region of Pakistani-administered Kashmir}}
{{Distinguish|Baltic states}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2020}}
{{Infobox settlement
| name               = Baltistan
| native_name        = {{Nastaliq|بلتستان}}<br/>སྦལ་ཏི་སྟཱན་། Burushaski : baloi
| settlement_type    = [[Region]] in [[Gilgit-Baltistan]]
| image_flag         = 
| image_map          = Kashmir Region November 2019.jpg
| mapsize            = 
| map_caption        = A map of the disputed [[Kashmir]] region showing the Pakistani administered region of Baltistan, a part of Pakistani-administered [[Gilgit-Baltistan]]
| subdivision_type   = Administering Country
| subdivision_name   = [[Pakistan]]
| subdivision_type1  = [[Administrative units of Pakistan|Territory]]
| subdivision_name1  = [[Gilgit-Baltistan]]
| coordinates        = {{coord|35|18|N|75|37|E|region:PK|display=inline}}
| pushpin_map        = 
| pushpin_label_position = bottom
| elevation_m        = 
| area_total_km2     = 30000
| area_footnotes     = <ref>{{Cite book |editor-last1=Kapstein |editor-first1=Matthew T. |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=hZlcEAAAQBAJ&pg=PA137 |title=The Many Faces of King Gesar: Tibetan and Central Asian Studies in Homage to Rolf A. Stein |editor-last2=Ramble |editor-first2=Charles |last=Dryland |first=Estelle |date=2022 |publisher=BRILL |isbn=978-90-04-50346-5 |location=Leiden |pages=137 |language=en |chapter=Can Culture Transcend Religion? The Muslim Bards of Baltistan}}</ref>
| population_as_of   = 2022
| population_total   = 637450
| population_footnotes = <ref name=Area>The total population of five districts of [[Baltistan Division]] as per {{Cite web |title=Gilgit Baltistan at a Glance 2022. Published in 2023 |url=http://src.pnd.gog.pk/GBatGlance/GBatGlance2023.pdf |access-date=April 6, 2025 |website=Planning & Development Department Statistical & Research Cell (SRC), Government of Gilgit-Baltistan.}}</ref>
| population_density_km2 = 
| blank_name_sec1    = [[Languages of Pakistan|Languages]]
| blank_info_sec1    = {{bulleted list|'''Official:''' <br/> [[English language|English]], [[Urdu]]|'''Spoken:''' <br/> [[Balti language|Balti]], [[Purgi language|Purgi]], [[Changthang language|Changthang]], [[shina language|Shina]] and [[Brokskat]]<ref>{{cite web|title=How Many Languages Are Spoken In Pakistan|url=https://www.economy.pk/how-many-languages-are-spoken-in-pakistan/|website=economy.pk|date=6 September 2021 |access-date=15 February 2023}}</ref>}}
| utc_offset_DST     = 
| government_type    = Divisional Administration
| leader_title       = Commissioner
| leader_name        = Shuja Alam (PAS)
| leader_title1      = Deputy Inspector General (DIG)
| leader_name1       = Cap. (R) Liaquat Ali Malik (PSP)
}}
{{Anchor|Popular culture references}}
'''Baltistan''' ({{IPA|en|ˌbɔːltɪˈstɑːn|lang}}, {{IPA|ur|bəlt̪ɪst̪aːn|lang}});<ref>{{Cite dictionary |dictionary=Oxford Dictionary of English |edition=3rd|title=Baltistan |url=https://www.oxfordreference.com/display/10.1093/acref/9780199571123.001.0001/m_en_gb0058480 |access-date=2025-04-16 |publisher=Oxford University Press|language=en |doi=10.1093/acref/9780199571123.001.0001/m_en_gb0058480|doi-broken-date=1 July 2025 |editor= Stevenson, Angus}}</ref> also known as '''Baltiyul''' or '''Little Tibet''', is a mountainous region in the [[Pakistan]]i-administered territory of [[Gilgit-Baltistan]] and constitutes a northern portion of the larger [[Kashmir]] region that has been the subject of a dispute between [[India]] and Pakistan since 1947. It is located near the [[Karakoram]] (south of [[K2]]) and borders [[Gilgit]] to the west, [[China]]'s [[Xinjiang]] to the north, [[India]]n-administered [[Ladakh]] to the southeast, and the Indian-administered [[Kashmir Valley]] to the southwest.<ref>{{citation |first=Victoria |last=Schofield |author-link=Victoria Schofield |title=Kashmir in Conflict |publisher=I. B. Taurus & Co |location=London and New York |year=2003 |orig-year=First published in 2000 |isbn=1860648983 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=rkTetMfI6QkC&pg=PA8 |page=8}}</ref><ref>{{citation |last=Cheema |first=Brig Amar |title=The Crimson Chinar: The Kashmir Conflict: A Politico Military Perspective |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Qc25BwAAQBAJ&pg=PA30 |date=2015 |publisher=Lancer Publishers |isbn=978-81-7062-301-4 |page=30}}</ref> The average altitude of the region is over {{convert|3350|m}}. Baltistan is largely administered under the [[Baltistan Division]].

Prior to the [[Partition of India|partition of British India]] in 1947, Baltistan was part of the [[princely state]] of [[Jammu and Kashmir (princely state)|Jammu and Kashmir]], having been conquered by [[Gulab Singh]]'s armies in 1840.<ref>{{cite book|title=Proceedings - Punjab History Conference|date=1968|publisher=Punjabi University|language=en}}</ref> Baltistan and Ladakh were administered jointly under one ''wazarat'' (district) of the state. The region retained its identity in this setup as the [[Skardu District|Skardu]] ''tehsil'', with [[Kargil district|Kargil]] and [[Leh district|Leh]] being the other two ''tehsils'' of the district.<ref>{{citation |first=H. N. |last=Kaul |title=Rediscovery of Ladakh |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mg8My6WaWRcC&pg=PA88 |year=1998 |publisher=Indus Publishing |isbn=978-81-7387-086-6 |page=88}}</ref> After [[Hari Singh]], the last ''[[maharaja]]'' of Jammu and Kashmir, acceded to the [[Dominion of India]] in 1947, his local governor in Gilgit was overthrown by the [[Gilgit Scouts]], who then took the entire region for Pakistan during the [[Indo-Pakistani War of 1947–1948]]. The [[Gilgit Agency]] and Skardu ''tehsil'', as well as a portion of Kargil ''tehsil'',{{NoteTag|According to the [[1961 Census of India]], 31 complete and 5 partial villages of Kargil came under Pakistani control and subsequently became part of Baltistan, amounting to an area of some {{convert|1,567.2|mi2|abbr=on}}.<ref>Census of India 1961. Volume VI: Jammu and Kashmir. PART II-A: GENERAL POPULATION TABLES. Published 1964. pp. 23, 53, 75, 104. Quote: "Thirty-one villages of Tehsil Kargil (Serial Nos. 21–29, 33–53 and 90 of Village Tables of 1941) being on the other side of the cease-fire line."</ref> However, all of these villages had belonged to the Kharmang ''ilaqa'' of Baltistan, which was transferred from Skardu ''tehsil'' to Kargil in 1901.<ref> CENSUS OF INDIA, 1911. Volume XX: Kashmir. PART I: REPORT. pp. 52, 63. Published 1912. Quote: "The Kharmang ilaqa from Skardu, and Zanskar from Kishtwar, were included in the newly formed tehsil."</ref><ref>{{citation |title=Gazetteer of Kashmir and Ladak |url=https://archive.org/details/in.ernet.dli.2015.43256 |via=archive.org |publisher=Superintendent of Government Printing |location=Calcutta |pages=495|year=1890 |ref={{sfnref|Gazetteer of Kashmir and Ladak|1890}}}}</ref> A few villages of the Kharmang ''ilaqa'', such as [[Hardas]] and Karkichu, remained part of Kargil.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Gupta |first=Radhika |chapter=Living on the Edge |title=Freedom in Captivity: Negotiations of Belonging along Kashmir's Frontier |date=2023 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=978-1-009-27678-8 |language=en|page=163}}</ref>}} have since been under Pakistani governance<ref>{{citation |first=Victoria |last=Schofield |author-link=Victoria Schofield |title=Kashmir in Conflict |publisher=I. B. Taurus & Co |location=London and New York |year=2003 |orig-year=First published in 2000 |isbn=1860648983 |pages=65–66 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=rkTetMfI6QkC}}</ref> while the Kashmir Valley as well as Leh ''tehsil'' and most of the Kargil ''tehsil'' remain under Indian governance. The [[Chorbat Valley]], geographically in the Baltistan region, was ''de-facto'' partitioned when its four villages (with one [[Bogdang]] already under Indian control since 1947) were [[Battle of Turtuk|captured by India]] during the [[Indo-Pakistani War of 1971]], and were incorporated into the erstwhile [[Jammu and Kashmir (state)|state of Jammu and Kashmir]] (now in Ladakh).<ref>Atul Aneja, [http://www.thehindu.com/thehindu/2001/01/11/stories/0211000h.htm A 'battle' in the snowy heights]{{dead link|date=April 2021|bot=medic}}{{cbignore|bot=medic}}, The Hindu, 11 January 2001.</ref><ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.bbc.com/news/world-asia-india-22690692|title=In pictures: Life in Baltistan|work=bbc.com|date=July 2013|access-date=13 May 2015}}</ref>

The region is inhabited primarily by the [[Balti people]], a largely [[Muslims|Muslim]] ethnic group of [[Tibetan people|Tibetan]] descent. Baltistan is strategically significant to both Pakistan and India; the [[Siachen conflict]] and the [[Kargil War]] took place in this region alongside others.

==Etymology==
Like other Islamic regions near the Indian subcontinent, the name Baltistan is likely created by adding the [[Persian language|Persian]] suffix -istan to the name of the [[Balti people]], who lived here before the Islamic conquests.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last=Dani |first=Ahmad Hasan |author-link=Ahmad Hasan Dani |url= |title=History of Northern Areas of Pakistan |date=1991 |publisher=National Institute of Historical and Cultural Research, Quaid-i-Azam University |isbn=978-969-415-016-1 |edition=2nd |location=Islamabad |pages=6, 17, 410 |language=en |orig-date=1989}}</ref>

== Geography ==
[[File:Gilgit Baltistan Administrative divisions and districts.png|thumb|300px|Baltistan division, in dark green, Gilgit Baltistan]]
[[File:SkarduFromFort1175.JPG|thumbnail|alt=Valley town seen from above|[[Skardu]], capital of Baltistan]]
The 1911 [[Encyclopaedia Britannica Eleventh Edition|Encyclopaedia Britannica]] characterises Baltistan as the western extremity of [[Tibet]],<ref name="EB1911"/> whose natural limits are the [[Indus River]] from its abrupt southward bend around the map point {{coord|35.86|N|74.72|E|name=Bend in the Indus course}} and the mountains to the north and west. These features separate a comparatively peaceful Tibetan population from the [[Indo-Aryan peoples|Indo-Aryan]] tribes to the west. [[Muslim]] writers around the 16th century speak of Baltistan as the "Little Tibet", and of [[Ladakh]] as the "Great Tibet", emphasising their [[ethnological]] similarity.<ref name="EB1911">
{{Cite EB1911 |wstitle=Ladakh and Baltistan |volume=16 |pages=57–59 }}
</ref> According to Ahmad Hassan Dani, Baltistan spreads upwards from the Indus river and is separated from Ladakh by the [[Siachen Glacier]].{{sfn|Dani|1998|p=219}} It includes the Indus valley and the lower valley of the [[Shyok river]]{{coord|34.925|N|76.68|E|name=Shyok river|display=none}}.{{sfn|Pirumshoev|Dani|2003|p=243}}

Baltistan is a rocky mass of lofty mountains, the prevailing formation being [[gneiss]].  In the north is the [[Baltoro Glacier]]{{coord|35|44|11|N|76|22|51|E|name=Baltoro glacier|display=none}}, one of the longest glaciers outside of the polar regions, {{convert|35|mi|order=flip}} long, contained between two ridges whose highest peaks to the south are {{convert|25000|ft|m|abbr=on|order=flip}} and to the north {{convert|28265|ft|m|abbr=on|order=flip}}.<ref name="EB1911"/>

The Indus river runs in a narrow gorge, widening after receiving the [[Shyok River|Shyok]] river at {{coord|35.23|N|75.92|E|name=Shyok joins Indus}}. It then forms a {{convert|20|mi|adj=on|order=flip}} crescent-shaped plain varying between {{convert|1|and|5|mi|km|0|order=flip}} in width.{{sfn|Karim|2009|p=62}} The main inhabitable valleys of [[Kharmang]], [[Khaplu]], [[Skardu]], [[Shigar]] and [[Roundu]] are along the routes of these rivers.

The village of [[Chalunkha]], now in [[Leh district]], is traditionally considered the southernmost settlement of Baltistan, delimiting it from the [[Nubra valley|Nubra]] region of Ladakh.<ref name=Hugh>{{Cite book |last=Swift |first=Hugh |chapter=Chapter 7 Baltistan: Glaciers and Peaked Hats |page= 191|title=Trekking in Pakistan and India |date=1990 |publisher=London: Hodder & Stoughton |isbn=978-0-340-51556-3 |language=en}}</ref> The traditional boundary of Baltistan with Ladakh along Nubra valley was finalised in the early 19th century by the ruler of Khaplu,{{sfn|Dani|1991|loc= p. 235: "He entered into an alliance with the ruler of Ladakh and got his help by redefining territorial boundary between Ladakh and Khaplu. On the left side of Shayok river, i.e. on the side of Khaplu the boundary was fixed at Pari Khanasha, and on the right side of the river at Pari Naulakha and Zilakha. All the area above this line towards Chorbat was to be given to Ladakh."}} while that of along Suru valley was demarcated at Ghargurdo, between [[Ganokh]] and [[Garkon]], in the 17th century following a battle between the Balti king [[Ali Sher Khan Anchan|Ali Sher Anchan]] and Gyalpo [[Jamyang Namgyal]]. Ruins of a series of watchtowers, which were jointly guarded by the both kingdoms, are still found here.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Vohra |first=Rohit |date=1982 |title=Ethnographic Notes on the Buddhist Dards of Ladakh: The Brog-Pā |url= |journal=Zeitschrift für Ethnologie |volume=107 |issue=1 |pages=69–94 |jstor=25841799 |issn=0044-2666}}</ref> A few villages of the [[Kharmang District |Kharmang]] ''ilaqa'', such as [[Hardas]] and Karkichu in the [[Suru valley|Suru River Valley]], remained part of Kargil after the [[First Kashmir War]].<ref>{{cite book |last=Gupta |first=Radhika |chapter=Living on the Edge |title=Freedom in Captivity: Negotiations of Belonging along Kashmir's Frontier |date=2023 |publisher=Cambridge University Press |isbn=978-1-009-27678-8 |language=en|page=163}}</ref> They mark the former southern boundary of Baltistan, and are populated by ethnic Baltis till today.<ref name=Hugh/>
{{GeoGroup|section=Valleys_and_districts}}

== Administration ==
The Baltistan is one of three divisions of [[Gilgit-Baltistan]]. The Division of Baltistan is administed under a BPS-20 Commissioner  of [[Pakistan Administrative Service]] group of [[Central Superior Services|Central Superior Services of Pakistan]]. The current Commissioner Baltistan Division is Shula Alam (PAS).

===Valleys and districts===
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Valley
! District
! District Area (km<sup>2</sup>)
! Population (1998)
! Capital
|-
|[[Khaplu]]<br/><small>{{coord|35|9|N|76|19|E|name=Khaplu valley|display=none}}</small> ||[[Ghanche District|Ghanche]]||8,531||88,366||[[Khaplu]]
|-
|[[Skardu]]<br/><small>{{coord|35|17|N|75|38|E|name=Skardu valley|display=none}}</small> ||[[Skardu District|Skardu]]||10,168||219,209||[[Skardu]]
|-
|[[Shigar]]<br/><small>{{coord|35|25|N|75|44|E|name=Shigar valley|display=none}}</small> ||[[Shigar Valley|Shigar]]||4,173||60,295||Center Shigar
|-
|[[Kharmang]]<br/><small>{{coord|34|44|N|76|10|E|name=Kharmang valley|display=none}}</small> ||[[Kharmang]]||6,144||62,522||[[Tolti Kharmang|Tolti]]
|-
| [[Roundu Valley|Roundu]]<br/><small>{{coord|35|35|N|75|13|E|name=Roundu valley|display=none}}</small> ||[[Roundu District|Roundu]]||...||80,000||[[Dambudas]]
|-
| [[Chorbat Valley|Chorbat]]°<br /><small>{{coord|34|51|N|76|50|E|name=Shyok Valley|display=none}}</small>||[[Leh district|Leh]] and 
[[Ghanche District|Ghanche]]
|883
(In Leh)
| ||[[Turtuk]]
|}
°*Although part of Baltistan, Chorbat valley has been ''de-facto'' partitioned between Pakistan and India, after territorial exchanges during [[Simla Agreement|1972 Simla treaty.]]

== History ==
=== {{anchor|Origin of Baltis and Baltistan}}Origins ===
{{Blockquote|Tibetan [[Kham]]pa entered in [[Khaplu]] through [[Chorbat Valley]] and [[Dardic people|Dardic]] tribes came to Baltistan through [[Roundu Valley]] from [[Gilgit]] prior to civilization, and these groups eventually settled down, resulting in the genesis of the Balti people.<ref>{{citation |first=Mustansar Hussain |last=Tarar |author-link=Mustansar Hussain Tarar |title=Nanga Parbat |year=1991 |language=ur}}</ref>}}

[[File:Old skardu.jpg|thumbnail|left|alt=Drawing of lakes surrounded by mountains|Skardu in 1800]]
Today, the people of [[Kharmang]] and [[Chorbat Valley|Eastern Khaplu]] have Tibetan features and those in Skardu, [[Shigar]] and the western villages of Khaplu are [[Dard people|Dards]].<ref>''Where Indus is Young''</ref> It was believed that the Balti people were in the sphere of influence of [[Zhangzhung]]. Baltistan was controlled by the Tibetan king in 686. Culturally influenced by Tibet, the [[Bon]] and [[Animism|animist]] Baltis began to adopt [[Tibetan Buddhism]]. Religious artifacts such as ''[[gompa]]s'' and ''[[stupa]]s'' were built, and [[lama]]s played an important role in Balti life.<ref name="afridi">{{cite book|first=Banat Gul|last=Afridi|title=Baltistan in history|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mQFuAAAAMAAJ|year=1988|location=Peshawar, Pakistan|publisher=Emjay Books International}}</ref><ref>Tarekh e jammu, molvi hashmatullah</ref><ref>Hussainabadi, Muhammad Yousuf: ''Baltistan per Aik Nazar'' 1984</ref>

For centuries, Baltistan consisted of small, independent valley states connected by the blood relationships of its rulers (''[[raja]]s''), trade, common beliefs and cultural and linguistic bonds.<ref>{{cite journal|title=A Socio-Political Study of Gilgit Baltistan Province|url=http://www.bzu.edu.pk/PJSS/Vol30No12010/Final_PJSS-30-1-16.pdf|access-date=13 July 2013|archive-date=26 September 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200926220506/https://www.bzu.edu.pk/PJSS/Vol30No12010/Final_PJSS-30-1-16.pdf|url-status=dead|journal=Pakistan Journal of Social Sciences}}</ref> Baltistan was known as Little Tibet, and the name was extended to include Ladakh.<ref name="EB1911"/> Ladakh later became known as Great Tibet. Locally, Baltistan is known as ''Baltiyul'' and Ladakh and Baltistan are known as Maryul ("red country").<ref>Yousaf Hussain Abadi, ''A view on Baltistan''</ref>

=== Medieval and Early Modern History ===
Medieval Baltistan was divided into three main kingdoms: Skardu, Shigar, and Khaplu.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 243 --> The [[Maqpon dynasty]], which ruled from Skardu, also later established side branches at [[Kartaksho]] and [[Roundu]].<!-- Dani 2003, p. 243 --><ref name="Dani 2003">{{cite book |last1=Dani |first1=Ahmad Hasan |author1-link=Ahmad Hasan Dani |title=History of Civilizations of Central Asia, Volume V |date=2003 |publisher=UNESCO Publishing |location=Paris |isbn=92-3-103876-1 |pages=235–46 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=AzG5llo3YCMC |access-date=2 May 2024 |chapter=The Pamirs, Badakhshan and the Trans-Pamir States (Part 2: The Trans-Pamir States)}}</ref>{{rp|243}}

During the 14th century, Muslim scholars from Kashmir crossed Baltistan's mountainous terrain to spread Islam.<ref>{{cite web|title=Baltistan - North Pakistan|url=http://www.marafiefoundation.org/Default.aspx?tabid=78|archive-url=https://archive.today/20130615182719/http://www.marafiefoundation.org/Default.aspx?tabid=78|url-status=dead|archive-date=15 June 2013}}</ref> The [[Noorbakshia Islam|Noorbakshia]] Sufi order further propagated the faith in Baltistan and Islam became dominant by the end of the 17th century. With the passage of time a large number also converted to [[Shia Islam]] and a few converted to [[Sunni]] Islam.<ref name=":1">{{Cite web|title=Little Tibet: Renaissance and Resistance in Baltistan|url=https://www.himalmag.com/little-tibet-renaissance-and-resistance-in-baltistan/|date=30 April 1998|website=Himal Southasian|language=en-GB|access-date=20 May 2020}}</ref>

In 1190, [[Maqpon dynasty]] of [[Skardu]] was founded by Ibrahim Shah (1190-1220), who was born in [[Skardu]]. This royal family ruled over Baltistan for approximately 700 years.<ref>{{cite book|title=Tareekh e Baltistan|url=http://www.mybaltistan.com/History/History%20of%20Emporor/Maqpon/Urdu/009.htm}}</ref>  The kings of the Maqpon dynasty extended the frontiers of Baltistan to [[Gilgit Agency]],<ref>{{cite web|title=Baltis|url=http://www.hindukushtrails.com/tribes-baltis.php?print|website=Hindukush Trails}}</ref> [[Chitral]], and [[Ladakh]].<ref>{{cite book|title=Kashmir: Its Aborigines and Their Exodus|isbn = 9781935501343|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=kRFvWyqGNzEC&dq=ali+sher+khan+anchan+ladakh&pg=PA109|last1 = Tikoo|first1 = Tej K.|date = 30 June 2012| publisher=Amber Books Limited }}</ref> In the late 1500s/early 1600s, the Maqpon rulers of Skardu expanded their kingdom to include Shigar, Astor, Rondu, and Karataksha.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 243 --> The greatest ruler during this period was Alī Sher Khān, known as "Anchan", or "the Great".<!-- Dani 2003, p. 243 --> After the Mughal conquest of Kashmir in 1586, during the reign of Anchan's grandfather Ghāzī Mīr, diplomatic relations developed between the Mughals and the Maqpon rulers of Baltistan.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 243 --> A Balti princess was sent to the Mughal court, and according to local tradition, a Mughal princess was also sent to Skardu and built a [[Mughal architecture|Mughal-style]] fort at [[Mandok, Baltistan|Mandok]].<!-- Dani 2003, p. 243 --> Around 1595, the Mughal historian [[Abul Fazl|Abu'l-Fazl]] wrote that Kashmir was then importing [[Bombyx mori|silkworm]] eggs (for [[sericulture]]) from Gilgit and Baltistan.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --><ref name="Dani 2003"/>{{rp|243-4}}
[[File:Machulu baltistan.jpg|thumbnail|alt=Village nestled in a mountain valley|Typical Balti village]]
The [[Kharmang]] came under the control of the [[Namgyal dynasty of Ladakh|Namgyal royal family]] and developed a close relationship with Ladakh when the ''raja'' of Ladakh, Jamyang Mangyal, attacked the principalities in Kargil. Mangyal annihilated the Skardu garrison at Kharbu and put to the sword a number of petty Muslim rulers in the principalities of Purik (Kargil). [[Ali Sher Khan Anchan]], ''raja'' of [[Khaplu]] and [[Shigar]], left with a strong army via [[Marol]]. Passing the Laddakhi army, he occupied [[Leh]] (the capital of Ladakh) and the ''raja'' of Ladakh was taken prisoner.<ref>Hussainabadi, Muhammad Yousuf: ''Tareekh-e-Baltistan'' 2003</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Tikoo|first=Tej K.|title=Kashmir: Its Aborigines and Their Exodus|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=kRFvWyqGNzEC&pg=PA109|year=2012|publisher=Lancer International Incorporated|isbn=978-1-935501-34-3|page=109}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last1=Stobdan|first1=P.|last2=Chandran|first2=D. Suba|title=The last colony: Muzaffarabad-Gilgit-Baltistan|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=IngMAQAAMAAJ|date=April 2008|publisher=India Research Press with Centre for Strategic and Regional Studies, University of Jammu|isbn=9788183860673}}</ref>

Ali Sher Khan Anchan included Gilgit and [[Chitral]] in his kingdom of Baltistan,<ref>{{cite book|last1=Ramble|first1=Charles|last2=Brauen|first2=Martin|title=Proceedings of the International Seminar on the Anthropology of Tibet and the Himalaya: September 21-28 1990 at the Ethnographic Museum of the University of Zurich|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=nCRuAAAAMAAJ|year=1993|publisher=Völkerkundemuseum der Universität Zürich|isbn=978-3-909105-24-3}}</ref> reportedly a flourishing country. The valley from Khepchne to Kachura was flat and fertile, with abundant fruit trees; the sandy desert now extending from Sundus to [[Skardu Airport]] was a prosperous town. Skardu had hardly recovered from the shock of the death of Anchan when it was flooded.

After the death of Anchan in 1633, the Maqpon polity declined as his three sons fought among themselves.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 243-4 --> One of them, Adam Khān, had fled to Kashmir and then sought refuge with the Mughal emperor [[Jahangir|Jahāngīr]] while Anchan was still alive.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --> In 1637, Adam accompanied a Mughal expedition into Baltistan led by [[Zafar Khan (Mughal general)|Zafar Khān]].<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --> Adam's elder brother (and rival) Abdāl was captured, and Zafar Khān announced Mughal [[suzerainty]] over Baltistan.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --> However, with winter coming, Zafar hastily withdrew his troops from Baltistan and appointed one of Abdāl's partisans to govern the territory on his behalf, which upset the Mughal emperor [[Shah Jahan|Shāh Jahān]].<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --> Ultimately, though, Adam Khān ended up taking control of Baltistan.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --> Both he and his successor, Murād Khān, acknowledged Mughal suzerainty.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --><ref name="Dani 2003"/>{{rp|243-4}}

The Kingdom of Khaplu probably came into existence around the 10th century following the breakup of the [[Tibetan Empire]].<!-- Dani 2003, p. 246 --> Its ruling dynasty was known as the Yabgu dynasty, after the Turkish title of [[yabghu]].<!-- Dani 2003, p. 246 --> The local population was Buddhist up until around the 14th century, when Sayyid Alī Hamadānī is credited with spreading Islam to the region.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 246 --> Khaplu was conquered by Skardu under Alī Sher Khān Anchan in the early 1600s.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 246 --> From then on, it was administered by a governor, or ''kharpon'', appointed by the ruler in Skardu.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 246 --> The last kharpon was Yulehing Karīm, who governed Khaplu from 1820 to 1840, when the Dogra commander [[Zorawar Singh (Dogra general)|Zorāwar Singh]] conquered it.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 246 --><ref name="Dani 2003"/>{{rp|246}}
[[File:Balti king ahmed shah.jpg|thumbnail|alt=Drawing of a bearded man holding a rifle|Ahmed Shah, the last [[Maqpon dynasty|Maqpon]] king before the 1840 Dogra invasion]]
The official Mughal historian [[Abdul Hamid Lahori]] left an account of Baltistan in his entry for the year 1638.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --> He wrote that Baltistan had 22 ''[[pargana]]''s and 37 forts.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --> Its narrow mountain valleys could support limited cultivation, primarily of wheat and barley; certain fruits also thrived in the local climate.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --> Rather poor-quality gold was collected from river sands in small amounts – only about 2,000 ''[[tola (unit)|tola]]''s (about 9.5&nbsp;kg) was collected per year.<!-- Dani 2003, p. 244 --><ref name="Dani 2003"/>{{rp|244}}

In 1840, the region was subjugated by the [[Dogra dynasty|Dogra]] rulers of [[Jammu]] under the suzerainty of the [[Sikh Empire]].<ref>Ali, Manzoom (12 June 2004). Archaeology of Dardistan.</ref><ref name=Gertel>{{cite book|last=Gertel|first=Jörg|title=Economic Spaces of Pastoral Production and Commodity Systems|year=2011|publisher=Ashgate|isbn=978-1-4094-2531-1|pages=181|author2=Richard Le Heron}}</ref> 
On 29 August 2009 the government of [[Pakistan]] announced the creation of Gilgit–Baltistan, a provincial autonomous region with [[Gilgit]] as its capital and [[Skardu]] its largest city.{{citation needed|date=June 2016}}

== Tourism ==
[[File:Baltoro glacier from air.jpg|thumbnail|alt=Glacier surrounded by mountains, seen from the air|Baltoro Glacier; at {{cvt|62|km|mi|0}} in length, it is one of the longest Alpine glaciers on earth.{{citation needed|date=June 2016}}]]
Skardu has several tourist resorts and many natural features, including plains, mountains and mountain-valley lakes. The [[Deosai National Park|Deosai plain]], [[Satpara Lake]] and Basho also host tourists. North of Skardu, the Shigar Valley offers plains, hiking tracks, peaks and campsites. Other valleys in Baltistan region are [[Khaplu]], [[Roundu Baltistan|Rondu]], [[Kachura Lake]] and [[Kharmang]].

=== {{anchor|Glaciers in Baltistan}}Glaciers ===
Baltistan is a rocky wilderness of around {{convert|27000|sqmi|order=flip}},<ref>{{cite web|title=ABOUT GILGIT-BALTISTAN|url=http://www.mashabrum.com/gilgit_baltistan.html|access-date=6 April 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130714122626/http://www.mashabrum.com/gilgit_baltistan.html|archive-date=14 July 2013|url-status=dead}}</ref> with the largest cluster of mountains in the world and the biggest [[glacier]]s outside the polar regions. The [[Himalayas]] advance into this region from India, Tibet and Nepal, and north of them are the Karakoram range. Both ranges run northwest, separated by the [[Indus River]]. Along the Indus and its tributaries are many valleys. Glaciers include [[Baltoro Glacier]], [[Biafo Glacier]], [[Siachen Glacier]], [[Trango Glacier]] and [[Godwin-Austen Glacier]].

=== {{anchor|Panorama}}Mountaineering ===
[[File:Laila Peak.jpg|thumbnail|alt=Jagged peak|[[Laila Peak (Hushe Valley)|Laila Peak]], in the [[Hushe Valley]]]]
Baltistan is home to more than 20 peaks of over {{convert|20000|ft|m|order=flip}}, including [[K2]] (the second-highest mountain on earth.<ref name="afridi"/> Other well-known peaks include [[Masherbrum]] (also known as K1), [[Broad Peak]], [[Hidden Peak]], [[Gasherbrum II]], [[Gasherbrum IV]] and [[Chogolisa]] (in the [[Khaplu Valley]]). The following peaks have been scaled:
{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! Name !! !! Height !! Date climbed !! Location
|-
|[[K2]]  || style="min-width:100px" | [[File:K2 2006b.jpg|100px]]||{{cvt|28,250|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}}|| 31 July 1954||[[Shigar Valley|Shigar District]]
|-
|[[Gasherbrum I]] || [[File:Gasherbrum2.jpg|100px]] || {{cvt|26,360|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 7 July 1956 || [[Ghanche District]]
|-
|[[Broad Peak]] || [[File:7 15 BroadPeak.jpg|100px]] || {{cvt|26,550|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 9 June 1957 || Ghanche District
|-
|[[Muztagh Tower]] ||[[File:MuztaghTower.jpg|100px]] || {{cvt|23,800|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 6 August 1956 || Ghanche District
|-
|[[Gasherbrum II]] || [[File:Gasherbrum2.jpg|100px]] || {{cvt|26,120|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 4 July 1958 || Ghanche District
|-
| [[Hidden Peak]] || [[File:HiddenPeak.jpg|100px]] || {{cvt|26,470|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 4 July 1957 || Ghanche District
|-
|[[Khunyang Chhish]] || [[File:Kunyang Pumari Chhish.JPG|100px]] || {{cvt|25,761|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 4 July 1971 || [[Skardu District]]
|-
|[[Masherbrum]] || [[File:Masherbrum.jpg|100px]] || {{cvt|25,659|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 4 August 1960 || Ghanche District
|-
|[[Saltoro Kangri]] || [[File:Saltoro Kangri.jpg|100px]] || {{cvt|25,400|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 4 June 1962 || Ghanche District
|-
|[[Chogolisa]] || [[File:Chogolisa.jpg|100px]] || {{cvt|25,148|ft|order=flip|disp=br()}} || 4 August 1963 || Ghanche District
|}
{{wide image|Satpara lakejkhkjkhjk.jpg|1000px|alt=Lake with low mountains in the background|Panoramic view of [[Sheosar Lake]]}}

== Demographics ==
The region has a population of about 303,214 as of 2017.<ref name="citypopulation.de">
[https://www.citypopulation.de/en/pakistan/cities/gilgitbaltistan/ Gilgit-Baltistan], City Population web site, retrieved 12 May 2022.</ref> It is a blend of ethnic groups, predominantly [[Balti people|Baltis]],<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.gilgitbaltistanscouts.gov.pk/geodemo.htm|title=Geography and Demography of Gilgit Baltistan |first=Ejaz|last=Hussain|website=Gilgit Baltistan Scouts |access-date=5 December 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304202635/http://www.gilgitbaltistanscouts.gov.pk/geodemo.htm|archive-date=4 March 2016|url-status=dead}}</ref> and [[Tibetan people|Tibetans]]. A few [[Kashmiris]] settled in Skardu, practicing agriculture and woodcraft.

== Religion ==
Before the arrival of Islam, Tibetan Buddhism and [[Bon|Bön]] (to a lesser extent) were the main religions in Baltistan. Buddhism can be traced back to before the formation of the [[Tibetan Empire]] in the region during the seventh century. The region has a number of surviving [[Buddhist art|Buddhist]] archaeological sites. These include the [[Manthal Buddha Rock]], a [[rock relief]] of the Buddha at the edge of the village (near [[Skardu]]) and the [[Sacred Rock of Hunza]]. Nearby are former sites of Buddhist shelters.

Islam was brought to Baltistan by [[Sufism|Sufi]] missionaries during the 16th and 17th centuries, and most of the population converted to [[Noorbakshia Islam]]. The scholars were followers of the [[Kubrawiya]] Sufi order.<ref>{{cite web|title=NYF|url=http://nyfpk.org/Islam%20in%20Baltistan.php|access-date=30 April 2015|archive-date=7 March 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180307161508/http://nyfpk.org/Islam%20in%20Baltistan.php|url-status=usurped}}</ref> Most Noorbakhshi Muslims live in Ghanche.<ref>{{cite web|title=Sofia Imamia Noorbakhshia |url=http://noorbakhshia.com/ |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150518103616/http://www.noorbakhshia.com/ |archive-date=18 May 2015 }}</ref>

== {{anchor|Domesticated animals|Wild animals}}Fauna ==
[[File:Golden-Marmot.jpg|250px|thumb|alt=Two large, furry rodents resting on the ground|[[Long-tailed marmot|Golden marmots]] in Deosai National Park]]

Baltistan has been called a living museum for wildlife.<ref>{{cite web|title=Beautiful Gilgit Baltistan |url=http://www.visitgilgitbaltistan.gov.pk/nature.html |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20121018131507/http://www.visitgilgitbaltistan.gov.pk/nature.html |archive-date=18 October 2012 }}</ref> [[Deosai National Park]], in the southern part of the region, is habitat for predators since it has an abundant prey population. Domestic animals include [[yak]]s (including [[Yak#Yak breeding and hybridization|hybrid yaks]]), [[cattle]], [[sheep]], [[goat]]s, [[horse]]s and [[donkey]]s. Wild animals include [[ibex]], [[markhor]], [[musk deer]], [[snow leopard]]s, [[brown bear|brown]] and [[Asian black bear|black bears]], [[jackal]]s, [[fox]]es, [[Gray wolf|wolves]] and [[marmot]]s.

== Culture ==

=== Balti music and art ===
[[File:Balti children.jpg|thumbnail|alt=Three smiling young boys, with trees and a mountain in the background|Balti children from the [[Shigar Valley]]]]
According to Balti folklore, [[Mughal emperors|Mughal]] princess Gul Khatoon (known in Baltistan as Mindoq Gyalmo—Flower Queen) brought musicians and artisans with her into the region and they propagated Mughal music and art under her patronage.<ref>{{cite web|title=BALTI MUSIC AND ART|url=http://www.mybaltistan.com/History/History%20of%20Baltistan/English/6.htm|access-date=14 April 2013|archive-date=10 February 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200210220803/http://mybaltistan.com/History/History%20of%20Baltistan/English/6.htm|url-status=dead}}</ref> Musical instruments such as the ''[[Zurna|surnai]]'', ''karnai'', ''dhol'' and ''[[Fangxiang|chang]]'' were introduced into Baltistan.

==== Dance ====
Classical and other dances are classified as sword dances, ''broqchhos'' and [[Yakkha people|Yakkha]] and ''[[ghazal]]'' dances.<ref>Hussainabadi, Muhammad Yousuf: ''Balti Zaban'' 1990</ref> ''Chhogho Prasul'' commemorates a victory by the [[Maqpon dynasty|Maqpon ''rajas'']]. As a mark of respect, the musician who plays the drum (''dang'') plays for a long time. A Maqpon princess would occasionally dance to this tune. ''Gasho-Pa'', also known as ''Ghbus-La-Khorba'', is a sword dance associated with the Gasho Dynasty of Purik ([[Kargil]]). ''Sneopa'', the marriage-procession dance by ''pachones'' (twelve ''wazirs'' who accompany the bride), is performed at the marriage of a ''raja''.

=== Architecture ===
[[File:Chaqchan mosque khaplu.jpg|thumbnail|alt=Chinese-style mosque with enclosed porch and speakers|Chaqchan Mosque in Khaplu]]
Balti architecture has Tibetan and Mughul<ref>Wallace, Paul (1996). A History of Western Himalayas. Penguin Books, London.</ref> influences, and its monastic architecture reflects the Buddhist imprint left on the region. Buddhist-style [[wall painting]]s can be seen in forts and Noorbakhshi ''[[khanqah]]s'', including [[Chaqchan Mosque]] in [[Khaplu]], [[Amburik Mosque]] in Shigar, Khanqah e Muallah Shigar, [[Khaplu Fort]], [[Shigar Fort]] and [[Skardu Fort]].

=== {{anchor|Sports}}Polo ===
[[File:Polo in old skardu.jpg|thumbnail|alt=Drawing of polo ponies galloping|Polo match in Skardu around 1820, from [[Godfrey Vigne]]'s ''Travels in Kashmir, Ladak, Iskardo, the countries adjoining the mountain-course of the Indus, and the Himalaya, north of the Panjab'']]
[[Polo]] is popular in Baltistan, and indigenous to the Karakoram region, having been played there since at least the 15th–16th century.<ref>Malcolm D. Whitman, ''Tennis: Origins and Mysteries'', Published by Courier Dover Publications, 2004, {{ISBN|0-486-43357-9}}, p. 98.</ref> The Maqpon ruler [[Ali Sher Khan Anchan]] introduced the game to other valleys during his conquests beyond Gilgit and Chitral.<ref>Dani, Ahmad Hassan: ''History of Northern Areas of Pakistan'', National Institute of Historical Research, Islamabad, 1991.</ref> The English word [[polo#Origins|polo]] derives from the [[Balti language|Balti]] word ''polo'', meaning "the ball used in the game of polo".<ref>{{cite book|first=Walter William|last=Skeat|title=A Concise Etymological Dictionary of the English Language|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=ZV9IAAAAYAAJ|year=1898|publisher=Harper|page=[https://books.google.com/books?id=ZV9IAAAAYAAJ&q=polo 629]}}</ref> The game of polo itself is called ''Hrthapolo'' means horse riding game in Balti.<ref>{{cite book|first=Banat Gul|last=Afridi|title=Baltistan in history|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=mQFuAAAAMAAJ|year=1988|location=Peshawar, Pakistan|publisher=Emjay Books International|page=[https://books.google.com/books?id=mQFuAAAAMAAJ&q=polo+balti+origin 135]}}</ref>

==Media==
The [[Pakistan Broadcasting Corporation]]<ref>{{cite web|title=Radio Pakistan|url=http://www.radio.gov.pk/}}</ref> has radio and television stations in [[Khaplu]] that broadcast local programs, and there are a handful of private news outlets. The ''Daily K2''<ref>{{cite web|title=dailyk2|url=http://www.dailyk2.com/}}</ref> is an [[Urdu]] newspaper published in [[Skardu]] serving [[Gilgit-Baltistan]] for long time, and it is the pioneer of print media in Gilgit Baltisatn. ''Bad-e-Shimal'' claims the largest daily circulation in [[Gilgit]] and Baltistan.<ref>{{cite web|title=Daily Bad e Shimal|url=http://www.dailybaadeshimal.com/}}</ref> ''Nawa-e-Sufia'' is a monthly magazine covering Baltistan's Nurbakshi sect.<ref>{{cite web|title=5cntv |url=https://5cntv.com//5cntv.php|access-date=6 April 2013|archive-date=27 March 2023|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20230327173630/http://nyfpk.org/Nawa-i-Sufia.php|url-status=dead}}</ref>
''5cntv urdu'' news web magazine covering Baltistan's.<ref>{{cite web|title=5cntv urdu news web|url= https://5cntv.com/ }}</ref>

==Notes==
{{reflist|group=note}}{{notelist}}
{{Reflist|30em}}

==Bibliography==
* {{citation |last=Aggarwal |first=Ravina |title=Beyond Lines of Control: Performance and Politics on the Disputed Borders of Ladakh, India |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=2k3mgWCitj0C&pg=PA199 |year=2004 |publisher=Duke University Press |isbn=0-8223-3414-3 |pages=199–}}
* {{citation |first=Ahmad Hasan |last=Dani |chapter=The Western Himalayan States |editor1=M. S. Asimov |editor2=C. E. Bosworth |title=History of Civilizations of Central Asia, Vol. IV, Part 1 – The age of achievement: A.D. 750 to the end of the fifteenth century – The historical, social and economic setting|chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=18eABeokpjEC&pg=PA221 |date=1998 |publisher=UNESCO |isbn=978-92-3-103467-1 |pages=215–225}}
* {{citation |last=Karim |first=Afsir |chapter=Strategic dimensions of the trans-Himalayan frontiers |editor=K. Warikoo |title=Himalayan Frontiers of India: Historical, Geo-Political and Strategic Perspectives |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=w_Z8AgAAQBAJ&pg=PA42 |date=2009 |publisher=Routledge |isbn=978-1-134-03294-5 |pages=56–66}}
* {{citation |first1=H. S. |last1=Pirumshoev |first2=Ahmad Hasan |last2=Dani |chapter=The Pamirs, Badakhshan and the Trans-Pamir States |editor1=Chahryar Adle |editor2=Irfan Habib |title=History of Civilizations of Central Asia, Vol. V – Development in contrast: From the sixteenth to the mid-nineteenth century |chapter-url=https://books.google.com/books?id=AzG5llo3YCMC&pg=PA244 |date=2003 |publisher=UNESCO |isbn=978-92-3-103876-1 |pages=225–246}}

==External links==
{{NIE Poster|Baltistan}}
* [https://5cntv.com/1/hi/world/south_asia/1491179.stm https://5cntv.com/]
* [http://www.britannica.com/EBchecked/topic/51055/Baltistan Britannica Baltistan].

{{Baltistan}}
{{Regions and administrative territories of Kashmir}}
{{Authority control}}
{{Coord|35|18|N|75|37|E|region:PK-NA_type:country_source:kolossus-dawiki|display=title}}

[[Category:Baltistan]]
[[Category:Regions of Gilgit-Baltistan]]
[[Category:Regions of Pakistan]]
[[Category:Former kingdoms]]