View source for Barong tagalog

{{Short description|Filipino embroidered long-sleeved formal shirt}}
{{Other uses|Barong (disambiguation){{!}}Barong}}
{{Use Philippine English|date=January 2023}}
{{Use mdy dates|date=January 2023}}
[[File:Barong made of piña fabric displayed at the National Museum in the Philippines.jpg|upright|thumb|Barong tagalog made from [[piña]] fibers from the [[National Museum of the Philippines]]]]

The '''barong tagalog''', more commonly known simply as '''barong''' (and occasionally '''baro'''), is an [[Embroidery|embroidered]] long-sleeved formal shirt for men and a [[national dress]] of the [[Fashion and clothing in the Philippines|Philippines]]. Barong tagalog combines elements from both the precolonial [[Filipino people|native Filipino]] and colonial [[Spanish Empire|Spanish]] clothing styles. It is traditionally made with sheer textiles (''nipis'') woven from [[piña]] or [[abacá]]; although in modern times, cheaper materials like [[organza]] [[silk]], [[ramie]] or [[polyester]] are also used. 

It is a common formal or semi-formal attire in [[Culture of the Philippines|Filipino culture]], and is worn untucked over an [[undershirt]] with belted trousers and [[dress shoes]]. [[Baro't saya]] is the feminine equivalent of barong tagalog, with the [[Maria Clara gown]] being the formal variant of the latter.<ref name="Koleksyon">{{Cite web |last=Moreno |first=Jose "Pitoy" |date=n.d. |title=Costume at the Fin de Siecle – Maria Clara |url=http://www.koleksyon.com/filipinoheritage/costumes/findesiecle/maria_clara.asp |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110713164019/http://www.koleksyon.com/filipinoheritage/costumes/findesiecle/maria_clara.asp |archive-date=July 13, 2011 |website=koleksyon.com}}</ref> Barong tagalog was also known as ''camisa fuera'' ("outer shirt") in [[Philippine Spanish]].<ref name="Garnett">{{Cite magazine |last=Garnett |first=Lucy M. J. |date=1898 |title=The Philippine Islanders |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lGtPAQAAMAAJ&pg=PA84 |magazine=The Fortnightly Review |volume=64 |issue=July to December |pages=83–84}}</ref>

==Etymology==
The term "barong tagalog" is usually shortened in modern [[Filipino language|Filipino]] to "barong". Though this is grammatically incorrect, since "barong" contains the [[enclitic]] suffix ''[[wikt:-ng#Tagalog|-ng]]'', which indicates that it is modified by or modifies the next word. The correct [[root word]] of ''barong'' is the [[Tagalog language|Tagalog]] word ''baro'', meaning "outfit" or "clothing", but this is rarely used.<ref name="sea">{{Cite web |title=Barong Tagalog |url=http://www.seasite.niu.edu/tagalog/cynthia/costumes/barong_tagalog.htm |access-date=February 20, 2020 |website=SEAsite}}</ref><ref name="Beltran 2019" /><ref name="Quismundo">{{Cite news |last=Quismundo |first=Tarra |date=June 26, 2015 |title=LIST: 40 Filipino-Coined Words Added in Oxford Dictionary |work=Inquirer.net |url=https://globalnation.inquirer.net/125278/list-40-filipino-coined-words-added-in-oxford-dictionary |access-date=February 20, 2020}}</ref> 

Though "barong tagalog" literally translates to "[[Tagalog people|Tagalog]] outfit", the "tagalog" in the name does not mean that it was a form of dress exclusive to the [[Tagalog people]], as opposed to other [[History of the Philippines, 1565–1898|Philippine ethnic groups]]. Barong tagalog (and [[baro't saya]]) were worn universally among Christianized lowlanders throughout the Philippines in the Spanish colonial period. Rather, the name was coined to distinguish the dress as native (hence "tagalog", i.e. ''[[wikt:indio#Spanish|Indio]]''), as opposed to the styles of dress of Europeans and other foreign cultures.<ref name="Coo 2014" /> The "tagalog" descriptor is usually not capitalized.<ref>{{Cite web |title=barong tagalog |url=https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/barong%20tagalog |access-date=February 20, 2020 |website=Merriam-Webster}}</ref>

==Description==
[[File:Harana tradition of Filipinos.jpg|thumb|upright|Barong tagalog worn with a [[salakot]]. The woman is wearing a ''[[baro't saya|terno]]''.]]

Barong tagalog is a formal shirt usually made of sheer lightweight but stiff fabric known as ''[[nipis]]'' (usually woven from  [[piña]] or [[abacá]] fibers). When using sheer fabrics, it is worn over an undershirt known as the ''camisón'' or ''camiseta'', which can have short or long sleeves. The term ''camisa de chino'' is also used for collar-less and cuff-less undershirts, named after its resemblance to shirts worn by Chinese [[Coolie|laborers]]. It is worn with belted trousers and [[dress shoes]]. Headgear, when worn, is either a [[salakot]] or a [[buntal hat]] (and historically also [[top hat]]s or [[bowler hat]]s). The ensemble mixes elements of both native and Spanish traditions.<ref name="Ong 2018" /><ref name="Skerston">{{Cite book |last1=Skerston |first1=Sabrina |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=tiEvBQAAQBAJ |title=Ethnic Dress in the United States: A Cultural Encyclopedia |last2=McKinney |first2=Ellen C. |date=2014 |publisher=Rowman & Littlefield |isbn=978-0-7591-2150-8 |editor-last=Lynch |editor-first=Annette |location=Lanham |pages=19–21 |chapter=Barong Tagalog |editor-last2=Strauss |editor-first2=Mitchell D.}}</ref><ref name="Roces">{{Cite book |last=Roces |first=Mina |url=https://www.academia.edu/220831 |title=The Politics of Dress in Asia and the Americas |date=2008 |publisher=Sussex Academic Press |editor-last=Roces |editor-first=Mina |location=Brighton |pages=19–42 |chapter=Gender, Nation, and the Politics of Dress in Twentieth-Century Philippines |editor-last2=Edwards |editor-first2=Louise}}</ref>
 	
[[File:Parangal Dance Co. performing Jota Cagayana at 14th AF-AFC 8.JPG|thumb|left|upright|Dancers in barong tagalog (with a [[buntal hat]]) and [[traje de mestiza]] performing ''Jota&nbsp;Cagayana'']]

Barong tagalog can vary considerably in terms of design and material used, but they share common characteristics of having long sleeves, embroidery, being buttoned (halfway or straight down the chest), and the absence of pockets. They are also worn loosely and have slits on both sides. Historically, the material used for barong tagalog depended on the social class of the wearer and the formality of the occasion. Barong tagalog made of fine, sheer material like ''nipis'' were worn largely by the upper classes or were used for festive occasions; while barong tagalog made of cheaper opaque materials like [[cotton]] or ''[[sinamay]]'' were used by lower classes or for daily wear. The quality of the material and the intricacy of the embroidery were often signs of the status and wealth of the wearer.<ref name="Coo 2014" />

The embroidery of the barong tagalog are commonly placed on a rectangular section on the front of the chest (known as ''pechera'', "shirt front", from Spanish ''pecho'', "chest"), and/or over the entire shirt (''sabog'', from Tagalog for "scattered"). They feature various embroidery techniques, including ''calado'' and ''doble calado'' ("pierced" and "double-pierced", types of openwork [[drawn thread work|drawn thread embroidery]]), ''encajes de bolilio'' ([[Venetian lace]]), and ''sombrado'' (shadow embroidery). They can also have other kinds of ornamentation, like ''alforza'' (pleats), ''suksuk'' ([[Warp and weft|weft]] floats), and even hand-painted designs.<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="Roces" />

Occasionally feminized versions are worn by women, either as an egalitarian or ''[[haute couture]]'' fashion statement; or as a form of [[power dressing]] when worn by female politicians (such as [[Corazon Aquino]] during her presidency).<ref>{{Cite web |last=Radio Television Malacañang |title=Corazon C. Aquino, First State of the Nation Address, July 27, 1987 |url=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=slZ4Vql06Nw |url-status=live |archive-url=https://ghostarchive.org/varchive/youtube/20211212/slZ4Vql06Nw |archive-date=December 12, 2021 |access-date=September 6, 2013 |publisher=RTVM |format=Video}}{{cbignore}}</ref> However, the direct female counterpart of the barong tagalog is the [[baro't saya]] (or more formal versions of it like the [[traje de mestiza]] and the [[Maria Clara gown|terno]]), and both share the same precolonial origins.<ref name="primer">{{Cite web |date=May 13, 2013 |title=A Guide to the Philippines' National Costume |url=https://primer.com.ph/tips-guides/2017/05/13/expats-guide-to-the-philippines-national-costume/ |access-date=February 19, 2020 |website=Philippine Primer}}</ref><ref name="pfmf">{{Cite web |title=Baro't Saya |url=https://philippinefolklifemuseum.org/portfolio-items/barot-saya/ |access-date=February 19, 2020 |website=Philippine Folklife Museum Foundation}}</ref>

==History==
===Pre-colonial era===
[[File:Naturales 3.png|thumb|upright|[[Tagalog people|Tagalog]] ''[[maginoo]]'' (nobility) wearing ''baro'' and ''[[Tapis (Philippine clothing)|tapis]]'' in the [[Boxer Codex]] ({{circa|1590}})]]
The barong tagalog originated from the ''[[wikt:baro|baro]]'' ([[Tagalog language|Tagalog]] for "shirt" or "clothing", with [[cognates]] like ''barú'', ''badu'', ''bado'', or ''bayú'' in other [[Philippine languages]]; and ''[[Baju Melayu|baju]]'' in [[Malaysia]] and [[Indonesia]]), a simple collar-less shirt, [[tunic]], or jacket with close-fitting long sleeves worn by both men and women in most ethnic groups in the [[History of the Philippines (900–1521)|pre-colonial Philippines]]. These were made from rough linen-like cloth woven from native [[abacá]] fiber, or from imported fabrics woven from [[silk]], [[cotton]], and [[Bombax ceiba|kapok]], among others.<ref name="Coo 2014">{{Cite thesis |last=Coo |first=Stéphanie Marie R. |title=Clothing and the Colonial Culture of Appearances in Nineteenth Century Spanish Philippines (1820–1896) |date=2014 |degree=PhD |publisher=Université Nice Sophia Antipolis |url=https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-01126974/document}}</ref><ref name="Ramos 2016">{{Cite thesis |last=Ramos |first=Marlene Flores |title=The Filipina ''Bordadoras'' and the Emergence of Fine European-Style Embroidery Tradition in Colonial Philippines, 19th to early-20th Centuries |date=2016 |degree=MA |publisher=Mount Saint Vincent University |hdl=10587/1788 |hdl-access=free |s2cid=194439772}}</ref><ref name="Gonzales">{{cite web |last1=Gonzales |first1=Gino |title=The Philippine Dress: 500 Years of Straddling Polarities |url=https://artsofasia.com/the-philippine-dress-500-years-of-straddling-polarities/ |website=Arts of Asia |access-date=16 October 2025}}</ref> The design of the original ''baro'' was influenced by [[Maritime Silk Road|trade and contact]] with neighboring regions. These influences include the [[Malay people|Malay]] and [[Javanese people|Javanese]] ''[[Baju Melayu|baju]]'',<ref name="Alejo-Hila">{{cite book |last1=Alejo-Hila |first1=Maria Corazon |last2=Aguilar-Reyes |first2=Mitzi Marie |last3=Feleo |first3=Anita B. |title=Garment of Honor, Garment of Identity |date=2008 |publisher=EN Barong Filipino}}</ref> and the [[South Asia]]n ''[[kurta]].''<ref name="Saran">{{Cite book |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=Ye1lDwAAQBAJ |title=Cultural and Civilisational Links Between India and Southeast Asia: Historical and Contemporary Dimensions |date=2018 |publisher=Palgrave Macmillan |isbn=978-981-10-7317-5 |editor-last=Saran |editor-first=Shyam |location=Singapore |page=102}}</ref>

Among Tagalog men, the ''baro'' were commonly paired with loose trousers known as ''salawal'' (also spelled ''salaual'') or a rectangular wraparound cloth known as ''tapis''. The ''salawal'' were loose knee-length or shin-length trousers adapted from the [[Persian Empire|Persian]] ''[[sirwal]]'' (probably via [[Malay people|Malay]]s).<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="Beltran 2019" /><ref name="Ramos 2016" /><ref name="sea" /> 

[[File:Datu and binokot (Principalia) - Philippines (c.1668).jpg|thumb|left|Traditional [[tunic]] (''badu'') worn with a ''[[bahag (garment)|bahag]]'' by a [[Visayans|Visayan]] ''[[datu]]'' (left) from ''Historia natural del sitio, fertilidad y calidad de las Islas e Indios de Bisayas'' ({{circa|1668}})]]
Similar trousers are still worn by various indigenous groups in [[Mindanao]] today, such as the [[Bagobo people|Bagobo]] ''saruar'', the [[Blaan people|Blaan]] ''salwal'', and the [[Maranao people|Maranao]] ''saroar''; though these are usually more tight-fitting than the ''salawal''.<ref name="Coo2017"/> 

The ''[[Tapis (Philippine clothing)|tapis]]'' (also known as ''[[patadyong]]'' or ''[[malong]]'' in other Philippine ethnic groups, among other names) is a native tubular or rectangular wraparound cloth that covers the wearer from the waist down. It is worn by both men and women.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Boxer Codex |url=http://purl.dlib.indiana.edu/iudl/general/VAB8326 |website=The Lilly Library Digital Collections, Indiana University}}</ref><ref>{{Cite book |last1=Souza |first1=George Bryan |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=_W7sCgAAQBAJ |title=The Boxer Codex: Transcription and Translation of an Illustrated Late Sixteenth-Century Spanish Manuscript Concerning the Geography, History and Ethnography of the Pacific, South-east and East Asia |last2=Turley |first2=Jeffrey Scott |date=2015-11-09 |publisher=BRILL |isbn=978-90-04-30154-2 |language=en}}</ref> 

The ''baro'' usually extend to just slightly below the waist. However, in the [[Visayas]], aside from similar shirts or tunics (known as ''badu'',<ref name="Gonzales"/> ''[[wikt:bado#Waray-Waray|bado]]'', or ''[[wikt:bayo#Hiligaynon|báyò]]'' in [[Cebuano language|Cebuano]], [[Waray language|Waray]], and [[Hiligaynon language|Hiligaynon]], respectively), men also wore colorful robe-like and coat-like variants that could extend to well below the knees (known as the ''marlota'' and ''baquero'' in Spanish, respectively). These were sometimes belted at the waist. Among Tagalogs, red dyes and gold trimmings were indicative of being a member of nobility (''[[maginoo]]'') or the warrior caste (''[[maharlika]]'').<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="vintabarong">{{Cite web |date=September 25, 2019 |title=The Rich and Interesting History of the Barong Tagalog |url=https://www.vintato.com/blog/the-rich-and-interesting-history-of-the-barong-tagalog |access-date=February 20, 2020 |website=Vinta Gallery}}</ref>

===Spanish colonial era===
[[File:Tagalog dress, early 1800s.jpg|upright|thumb|Full traditional [[Tagalog people|Tagalog]] attire for working-class commoners during the Spanish colonial era, with barong tagalog, {{lang|es|vestido anajao}} (indigenous rain capes), and [[salakot]] headwear (c. 1855)]]

Early records of clothing in the Philippines during the [[History of the Philippines, 1565–1898|Spanish colonial era]] from the 16th to the 18th centuries were limited, thus the exact evolution of the precolonial baro to the modern barong tagalog can not be established with precision. Based on illustrations and written accounts, however, baro were still largely only worn by commoners during this period. They were mostly identical to precolonial baro and were made from opaque [[linen]]-like [[abacá]] textiles, and thus lacked the collars, buttons, and embroidery of later baro styles. The couturier [[Pitoy Moreno|Jose "Pitoy" Moreno]] has hypothesized that this transitional style of shirt was the ''camisa de chino'' of later centuries, which makes it a precursor to the barong tagalog. Depictions of members of the ''[[principalia]]'' upper classes (including natives and ''[[mestizo]]s'') in the 18th century showed that they invariably wore European-style clothing,<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="Roces" /> often paired with {{lang|tl|sayasaya}} trousers. The ''sayasaya'' (not to be confused with the [[baro't saya|Spanish ''saya'']]) was a type of loose silk trousers that feature embroideries along the hemline, presumably originating from [[Ku (trousers)|Chinese trousers]].<ref name="Coo 2014"/><ref name="Coo2017">{{cite journal |last1=Coo |first1=Stephanie Marie R. |title=Diverse yet Distinct: Philippine Men's Clothing in the Nineteenth Century, 1850s-1890s |journal=SUVANNABHUMI (수완나부미) |date=2017 |volume=9 |issue=2 |pages=123-144 |url=https://koreascience.kr/article/JAKO201714052862216.page?&lang=en}}</ref> 

[[File:El Mestiso by Justiniano Asuncion.jpg|upright|left|thumb|Barong mahaba with a [[Ruff (clothing)|ruff]] collar depicted in ''El Mestiso'' by [[Justiniano Asuncion]] (c. 1841)]]

The first barong tagalog precursor to gain favor among the local and ''mestizo'' elites was the barong mahaba (literally "long baro") which became prominent starting from the 1820s. These were much longer than the modern barong tagalog, reaching down to slightly above the knees. They were also commonly striped with bold colors like blue, red, or green. However, they already displayed hallmarks of the modern barong tagalog, including being made of sheer ''nipis'' material, embroidery, long sleeves, and a loose silhouette with slits on both sides. However, they lacked buttons. Early examples of barong mahaba usually had high-standing collars or even Elizabethan-style [[Ruff (clothing)|ruff]]s with narrow [[cravat (early)|cravat]]s. Barong mahaba were generally worn with colorful straight-cut trousers with stripes, [[Check (pattern)|checkers]], or plaid-like patterns (generally made from imported  [[cambaya]], [[rayadillo]], and [[Calico|guingón]] fabrics), [[top hat]]s (''sombrero de copa''), and a type of embroidered [[velvet]] or leather slip-on shoes known as ''corchos.'' While barong mahaba were generally worn loose, they were sometimes fastened by silk strings through three openings around the waist, either over or under the shirt. The sheer fabric used by barong mahaba also necessitated the wearing of an undershirt, known as ''camisón'' or ''camiseta'', which was also worn on its own by commoners.<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="MyBarong" />

By the 1840s, barong mahaba largely fell out of fashion. In this period, it evolved into the modern "classic" barong tagalog, being much shorter with less ostentatious folded collars, while still retaining the sheer fabric and other baro characteristics. They were also worn with smaller hats like [[bowler hat]]s (''sombrero hongo'') or native [[buntal hat]]s. They were initially paired with looser trousers, though they gradually assumed the dimensions of modern trousers by the end of the 19th century. The colors of the barong tagalog also became more muted and monochromatic, in contrast to the colorful barong mahaba ensembles of earlier decades. Barong tagalog ensembles from the mid-19th century onwards were usually combinations of black and white, blue and white, or all-white. Baro worn by commoners also favored darker colors like brown or blue, usually paired with white silk pants.<ref name="Coo 2014" />

[[File:PHILIPPINE Indio.JPG|upright|thumbnail|A Filipino man in a late 19th-century colored barong tagalog, from the collections of the [[Biblioteca Nacional de Madrid]] (c. 1870)]]

This type of barong tagalog were common among government workers and businessmen, who usually wore them underneath jackets (''chaqueta''). Sheer baro were also worn by natives and ''mestizos'' for ''fiestas'', leisure activities like dancing, or for church. However, western-style [[suit]]s became more popular among students of the burgeoning ''[[ilustrado]]'' educated class.<ref name="Coo 2014" />

A notable variant of the barong tagalog during this period was the baro cerrada (literally "closed baro"). Its name is derived from its closed-neck collar. It was made from opaque material (which can be white or darker colors) and was paired with white pants. This style of baro remained popular up until the early 1900s.<ref name="Coo 2014" />
 	
A commonly repeated but false belief is that the Spanish colonizers made the natives wear their barong tagalog with the shirt tails hanging out to distinguish them from the ruling class; its translucent fabric allegedly showing that the wearer was not concealing a weapon underneath. There are no historical records of this anytime from the 16th to the late 19th century. No regulations mandated the use of sheer material or banned the tucking in of men's shirts. Baro were always worn untucked, even in the precolonial period; and up until the 19th century, they were not made from translucent ''nipis'' fabric.<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="Beltran 2019" />

While the style and textiles worn by different classes did vary over the Spanish colonial period, this was due to fashion, wealth, and class distinction, rather than law. Most commoners throughout the colonial period wore baro made from cheaper and more durable opaque textiles, while expensive ''nipis'' fabrics were worn mostly by the upper classes. Natives (''indios'' descended from precolonial nobility) and  ''[[mestizo]]s'' (both ''mestizos de Español'' and ''[[mestizos de sangley]]'') were also part of the aristocratic upper classes (''[[principalia]]'') and it wasn't restricted to Europeans.<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="Beltran 2019" />

''Indios'' and ''mestizos'', regardless of class, wore barong tagalog and European-style clothing depending on what they can afford and which were fashionable at the time.  The wearing of barong tagalog did have racial connotations however, since most people of unmixed European descent (the ''[[insulares]]'', ''[[criollo people|criollos]]'', and ''[[peninsulares]]'') retained their own dress styles and thus inadvertently differentiated from Filipino fashions.<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="Beltran 2019">{{Cite web |last=Beltran |first=Sam |date=June 27, 2019 |title=The Weird and Wonderful History of the Barong Tagalog |url=https://www.esquiremag.ph/style/fashion/barong-tagalog-history-a1942-20190627-lfrm2 |access-date=February 20, 2020 |website=Esquire}}</ref>

===American colonial era===
[[File:Emilio Aguinaldo with his son Emilio Jr 1906.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Emilio Aguinaldo]], in a baro cerrada, with his son (1906)]]

The popularity of barong tagalog further waned during the [[History of the Philippines (1898–1946)|American colonial period]]. It was replaced by [[suit]]s (known as ''Americana'' in the Philippines) and [[tuxedo]]s in most formal functions. In contrast, women persisted in wearing the native ''[[baro't saya|terno]]'' (a modernized and unified version of the ''[[baro't saya]]''), which was then associated with [[1937 Philippine women's suffrage plebiscite|suffragist]]s. Barro cerrada remained popular as informal leisure clothing, however.<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref name="Roces" /><ref name="Beltran 2019" />
===Modern era===
[[File:Magsaysay and Garcia.jpg|thumb|upright|[[Ramon Magsaysay]] and his (eventual) successor, [[Vice-President of the Philippines|Vice-President]] [[Carlos P. García]], at their inauguration on December 30, 1953]]

After the Philippine independence on July 4, 1946, ''Americana'' or a [[suit and tie]] continued to be the dominant formal wear, worn by presidents [[Manuel Roxas]] and [[Elpidio Quirino]].<ref name="Roces" />  In 1953, however, President [[Ramón Magsaysay]] won the election by being "a man of the masses". He deliberately wore a barong tagalog at his inauguration. The press played up the symbolism of Magsaysay in a barong tagalog and the outgoing Quirino in a western-style suit as symbolic of the "break" between the independent Philippines and its colonial past. He also wore barong tagalog in most public and private state functions. Magsaysay's use of the barong tagalog as formal attire was unprecedented in modern times. His example was followed by other [[Philippine presidents]], and by the time of [[Diosdado Macapagal]]'s term in the 1960s, it had regained its status as formal wear. [[Ferdinand Marcos]], in particular, wore barong tagalog at almost every occasion. In 1975, Marcos issued a decree for the barong tagalog, along with the [[baro't saya]], to become the official national attire. June 5 to 11 was also declared as the "Barong Tagalog Week".<ref name="Roces" /><ref name="sea" /><ref name="Beltran 2019" />

Following Marcos' decree, barong tagalog became widely mandated as office wear for both employees of the government and private companies, as well as [[school uniform]]s. In the 1970s to the 1980s, companies like the [[Philippine Airlines]], [[Ayala Corporation]], and the [[Allied Banking Corporation|Allied Bank]] were prescribing barong tagalog as their uniforms. Various semi-formal and informal versions of the barong tagalog developed during this period, including the short-sleeved polo barong and the linen barong.<ref name="Roces" /> In 1998, Supreme Court Justice [[Hilario Davide, Jr.]] mandated the wearing of barong tagalog for all employees of the [[Judiciary of the Philippines]].<ref>{{Citation |title=Administrative Circular No. 10-99 |url=http://www.chanrobles.com/supremecourtadmincircular10-99.htm#.Xk5sW_RS_4Y |mode=cs1 |via=ChanRobles Virtual Law Library}}</ref>

While the barong tagalog was now regarded as formal wear, it did not gain popularity as a wedding attire for grooms in the early post-war Philippines. Most weddings  featured a groom in a western suit and a bride in a ''terno''. However, by the 1990s, the situations had reversed. Grooms now almost always wear barong tagalog, while women favored western-style bridal gowns.<ref name="Roces" />

==Types of material used==
[[File:Barong Up Close.jpg|thumb|upright|Detail of the fabric and embroidery on a barong tagalog]]
[[File:Barong Filipino.jpg|thumb|upright|Typical ''[[organza]]'' barong tagalog worn at a wedding]]

The finest barong tagalog are made from a variety of indigenous sheer fabrics (''nipis''). The most common traditional materials used are listed below. The fabrics used can also be composites of two different materials (like [[cotton]] and ''jusi'' or [[silk]] and ''[[piña]]''). Additionally, more informal barongs can also utilize common opaque textiles like [[cotton]], [[linen]], [[polyester]], or [[ramie]].<ref name="gettoknow">{{Cite web |title=Get to Know Barong Tagalog Fabrics – Organza, Jusi, Pina, and More |url=https://barongwarehouse.com/blogs/barong-bridges/14787905-get-to-know-barong-tagalog-fabrics-organza-jusi-pina |access-date=February 19, 2020 |website=Barong Warehouse|date=July 7, 2014 }}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=May 24, 2019 |title=Fabric Selection |url=https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/2034/7829/files/Heritage_Barong_Fabric_Selection.pdf |access-date=February 19, 2020 |website=Heritage Barong}}</ref>

* ''[[Piña]]'' – a traditional sheer fabric hand-woven from [[pineapple]] leaf fibers. It has a fine lustrous silk-like texture and has a natural yellowish tinge. It is the most expensive and highly prized material for barong tagalog, due to its manufacturing difficulty, quality, and rarity. It is characterized by fibers of uneven thickness which gives the fabric the appearance of having streaks.<ref name="Olives 2019" /><ref name="mhb">{{Cite web |title=Fabric Selection |url=https://www.heritagebarong.com/pages/barong-tagalog-fabric |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200229132648/https://www.heritagebarong.com/pages/barong-tagalog-fabric |archive-date=February 29, 2020 |access-date=February 29, 2020 |website=Heritage Barong}}</ref>
* ''Piña seda'' – a traditional fabric created by interweaving ''piña'' and silk (''seda'') fibers. It is usually less expensive than barong tagalog made purely from ''piña'', but is more expensive than other types of material. It is characterized by ''piña'' fibers on the [[Warp and weft|transverse weft]], and silk fibers on the [[Warp and weft|longitudinal warp]]. It is a lighter yellow color than barong tagalog made from ''piña''.<ref name="Olives 2019" /><ref name="mhb" /><ref name="Sarmiento" />
* ''Jusi'' – a traditional sheer fabric hand-woven from [[abaca]] fibers. It has a polished texture and a natural off-white color. It is less expensive than the ''piña'', but is still regarded as a classic material. It has a tendency to become brittle over time. It also commonly interweaves silk, cotton, or other fibers. It is sometimes misidentified as being made from "[[banana]]" fibers.<ref name="gettoknow" /> From the 1960s onwards, most fabrics labeled as ''jusi'' are actually ''jusilyn'' and ''organza'' fabrics. These fabrics are not traditional, but are cheaper mechanically woven substitutes largely from [[China]].<ref name="jusiorganza">{{Cite web |title=What Are the Differences Among Common Barong Fabrics: Polyester Organza Jusi Fabric Piña Fabric? |url=http://mybarong2.com/what-differences-among-common-barong-fabrics-polyester-organza-jusi-fabric-fabric-art-46.html |access-date=February 29, 2020 |website=MyBarong}}</ref>
* ''Piña jusi'' – similar to ''piña seda'', it interweaves ''piña'' fibers with ''jusi'' fibers. It is less expensive than pure ''piña'', but is more expensive than pure ''jusi''.<ref name="Karthik">{{Cite book |last1=Karthik |first1=T. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=SyZcCgAAQBAJ |title=Handbook of Sustainable Luxury Textiles and Fashion |last2=Rathinamoorthy |first2=R. |last3=Ganesan |first3=P. |date=2015 |publisher=Springer |isbn=978-981-287-633-1 |editor-last=Gardetti |editor-first=Miguel Angel |volume=1 |pages=89–91 |chapter=Sustainable Luxury Natural Fibers-Production, Properties and Prospects |editor-last2=Muthu |editor-first2=Subramanian Senthilkannan}}</ref>
* ''Pinukpok'' - a traditional rough and opaque fabric made from abaca fibers. It is primarily a product of the [[Bicol Region]].<ref name="Barcia 2019" />
* ''Sinamay'' – a traditional opaque fabric made from loosely woven abaca fibers. It is cheaper than other abaca materials and has a coarse texture.
* ''Jusilyn'' – a modern mechanically woven fabric made from [[silk]] or [[cotton]] and polyester, specifically made to resemble ''jusi'' fabric. It is less expensive than the ''jusi'' and is more opaque. Unlike ''piña'', it has fibers with an even texture and an off-white color, lacking the characteristic streaks of ''piña'' or ''jusi''. It can sometimes be chemically painted to give an appearance closer to traditional fabrics, and may even be sold off as counterfeit ''piña'' or ''piña seda'' fabrics.<ref name="gettoknow" /><ref name="Cruz">{{Cite book |last=Cruz |first=Eric V. |title=The Barong Tagalog: Its Development and Identity as the Filipino Men's National Costume |date=1992 |publisher=University of the Philippines |series=CHE Monographs, No. 2 |location=Quezon City |page=11}}</ref><ref name="Sarmiento">{{Cite web |last=Sarmiento |first=Bong S. |date=September 16, 2011 |title=AGHAM Rep: Beware of Fake Pina Barong |url=https://www.mindanews.com/top-stories/2011/09/agham-rep-beware-of-fake-pina-barong/ |access-date=February 29, 2020 |website=MindaNews}}</ref>
* ''[[Organza]]'' – a modern mechanically woven fabric made from silk or [[polyester]] from [[China]]. It has a polished and even texture, although it can be regarded as being too shiny. It is the cheapest material used for formal barong tagalog.<ref name="gettoknow" /><ref name="jusiorganza" />

==Variations==
The term barong tagalog is almost exclusively used to refer to the formal version of the barong. Named variants of the barong tagalog include the following:

===Historical===
[[File:Man's shirt from Luzon, pineapple fiber, plain weave, embroidery, Honolulu Museum of Art.JPG|upright|thumb|Late 19th century barong tagalog made from [[piña]] with both ''pechera'' ("shirt front") and ''sabog'' ("scattered") [[embroidery]], from the [[Honolulu Museum of Art]]]]
[[File:Marcos Clark Air Base cropped.jpg|thumb|upright| [[Ferdinand Marcos]] (in a [[Pierre Cardin]] barong tagalog) with [[Imelda Marcos]] (in a ''[[baro't saya|terno]]'') during the 1979 [[Clark Air Force Base]] turnover ceremonies]]

* '''Barong mahaba''' (lit. "long ''baro''"), is a type of barong tagalog popular in the early 19th century. They were much longer than modern barong tagalog, reaching to lengths just slightly above the knee. They were made of sheer material (commonly with longitudinal stripes) and were typically paired with straight-cut pants with striped patterns. They were normally worn loose, but they can sometimes be cinched at the waist. They featured a variety of collar styles, including [[1550–1600 in Western European fashion|Elizabethan-style]] [[Ruff (clothing)|ruffs]].<ref name="Coo 2014" />
* '''Baro cerrada''', also known as '''Americana cerrada''', is a type of barong tagalog that became popular during the 1890s and the early American colonial period. The name means "closed shirt" and refers to its closed-neck collar. They were made of opaque material (which can be white or darker colors) and were usually worn with white pants. During the American period, they were worn as less formal everyday wear, as opposed to American-style suits.<ref name="Coo 2014" />
* '''Pinukpok''' was a longer coat-like version of barong tagalog from the mid-19th century. Its name (literally "beaten") comes from the fabric used, ''pinukpok'', which were abacá fibers manually pounded into strands before being woven into a rough opaque textile. They were worn by government officials like ''[[Cabeza de Barangay|tenientes del barrio]]'' (village leaders) and ''[[gobernadorcillo]]s'' (municipal governors) as overcoats.<ref name="MyBarong">{{Cite web |title=History of the Barong Tagalog |url=http://mybarong2.com/history-barong-tagalog-art-99.html |access-date=February 21, 2020 |website=MyBarong}}</ref> Today, the name is also applied to formal opaque barong tagalog with conventional cuts made from the same abacá material.<ref name="Barcia 2019">{{Cite news |last=Barcia |first=Rhaydz B. |date=October 5, 2019 |title=Albay Designer Uses 'Pinukpok' to Promote Bicol Culture |work=Rappler |url=https://www.rappler.com/move-ph/241768-albay-designer-pinukpok-creations-promote-bicol-culture |access-date=February 21, 2020}}</ref>

===Modern===
* '''Pierre Cardin barong tagalog''' is a distinctive type of modern formal barong tagalog popularized by dictator [[Ferdinand Marcos]]. It was created by [[fashion designer]] Jean Paul Gaultier of [[Pierre Cardin]]. It featured elements of [[1970s in fashion|fashion in the 1970s]], including a tapering close-fitting cut, rigid oversized [[Collar (clothing)|point collars]] (often characterized as an "[[Elvis Presley]] collar") and cuffs, and flared sleeves. It was also worn with flared pants.<ref name="Roces" /><ref name="Olives 2019">{{Cite web |last=Olives |first=Monchet |date=September 15, 2019 |title=Your Burning Questions on Wearing Barongs Answered—From When to Wear It to What Goes Best with It |url=https://www.abs-cbn.com/ancx/style/necessary-style/09/15/19/your-burning-questions-on-wearing-barongs-answeredfrom-when-to-wear-it-to-what-goes-best-with-it |access-date=February 20, 2020 |website=ANCX}}</ref><ref name="Ong 2018">{{Cite web |last=Ong |first=Vincent |date=January 23, 2018 |title=What You Need to Know Before Buying a Barong |url=https://www.esquiremag.ph/style/fashion/what-you-need-to-know-before-buying-a-barong-a2011-20180123 |access-date=February 20, 2020 |website=Esquire}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Blain |first=Marc |date=November 26, 2015 |title=There Are Hundreds of Years of History in the "Silly Shirts" World Leaders Are Wearing at the APEC Summit |url=https://qz.com/552727/there-are-hundreds-of-years-of-history-in-the-silly-shirts-world-leaders-are-wearing-at-the-apec-summit/ |access-date=February 26, 2020 |website=Quartz}}</ref>
* '''Polo barong''' refers to a short-sleeved version of the barong, often made with linen, [[ramie]] or cotton. This is the least formal version of the barong and is frequently used as men's office wear (akin to the Western suit and tie).  It can be worn tucked or untucked.<ref name=dy/>
* '''''Gusót-mayaman''''' and '''linen barong''' are barongs made with linen or linen-like fabrics (like ramie). The name, loosely translated, means "wrinkled [shirt] of the rich" and refers to their tendency to acquire paper-like creases when worn because of the material; as well as a tongue-in-cheek reference to the way the wrinkles are tolerated because of the comparatively high status of the wearer. These are generally considered less formal than the ''barong tagalog'', and are also reserved for everyday office wear.<ref>{{Cite web |last=De Leon |first=J. P. |date=September 18, 2013 |title=Power Dressing and the Office Barong: Everything You Need to Know |url=http://manilarules.com/2013/09/18/power-dressing-office-barong-everything-need-know/ |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200217014234/http://manilarules.com/2013/09/18/power-dressing-office-barong-everything-need-know/ |archive-date=February 17, 2020 |access-date=February 19, 2020 |website=The Manila Survival Guide}}</ref><ref>{{Cite news |last=Tan |first=Michael L. |date=October 25, 2017 |title=Weaving a Nation |work=Inquirer.net |department=Pinoy Kasi |url=https://opinion.inquirer.net/108176/weaving-a-nation |access-date=February 19, 2020}}</ref>
* '''Shirt-jack barong''' are cut in [[wikt:jac-shirt|shirt-jacket style]], with a characteristic wide hem band at the bottom edge of the shirt. It is worn untucked.<ref name=dy>{{cite news |last1=Dy-Zulueta |first1=Dolly |title=Tips for wearing Barong street style |url=https://qa.philstar.com/lifestyle/fashion-and-beauty/2023/12/28/2288792/tips-wearing-barong-street-style |access-date=14 April 2025 |work=PhilStar Global |date=28 December 2023}}</ref> It is usually made of polyester-cotton, linen-cotton and the typical ''gusót-mayaman'' fabrics. Popularised by politicians wearing this style during campaigns or field assignments, it gives the wearer a look that is somewhere between casual and dressed-up. This type of shirt is, however, considered inappropriate for very formal occasions such as weddings.{{cn|date=September 2023}}

==Relation to the ''guayabera''==
The barong tagalog is a possible precursor to the ''[[guayabera]]'', a shirt popular in [[Latin America]]n communities since the late 19th century. It may have been introduced first to [[Mexico]] via the [[Manila-Acapulco Galleon]]s and were adapted to use local fabrics in the absence of piña or abacá. A variant of the ''guayabera'' traditionally worn in [[Yucatan]] is still called "''filipina.''"<ref name="Coo 2014" /><ref>{{Cite encyclopedia |title=Celebrating Latino Folklore: An Encyclopedia of Cultural Traditions |encyclopedia=Asian Contribution to Chicano/Latino Folklore |publisher=ABC-Clio |location=Santa Barbara, California |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=lY-tY62V1FIC&q=guayabera%20filipina&pg=PA62 |last=Romero |first=Robert Chao |date=2012 |editor-last=Herrera-Sobek |editor-first=María |volume=1: A-D |page=62 |isbn=978-0-313-34340-7}}</ref>

==Gallery==
<gallery>
File:Spanish mestizo costume.jpg|[[Mestizo]]s in the Philippines in barong tagalog and [[baro't saya]] by [[Jean Mallat de Bassilan]] ({{circa|1846}})
File:El Cundiman by José Honorato Lozano.jpg|''El [[Kundiman|Cundiman]]'' by [[José Honorato Lozano]] (c.1847), showing dancers in colorful striped barong tagalog and [[baro't saya]]
File:Shirt MET 83.50.1 CP4.jpg|Striped ''barong tagalog'' made from ''[[piña]]'' in the [[Metropolitan Museum of Art]] ({{circa|1850}})
File:Shirt MET 83.50.1 detail CP4.jpg|Detail of the ''calado'' embroidery on the ''pechera'' of a ''[[piña]]'' barong tagalog (c.1850)
File:Governor Vilma Santos-Recto.jpg|[[Vilma Santos]] in a feminized version of the barong tagalog
File:Barong Tagalog.JPG|A barong tagalog placed against the light, showing the translucency of the fabric
File:Philippine culture dance.jpg|[[Baro't saya]] and barong tagalog worn by dancers of ''[[Cariñosa]]''
File:Barong Tagalog.jpg|Modern ''[[abaca|jusi]]'' barong tagalog with a band collar
File:Ravenet-Mestizos.jpg|Barong tagalog worn under a European-style [[coat]] ({{circa|1790s}})
File:Un Indio Noble de Manila DamianDomingo.jpg|Barong tagalog under a coat with a [[neckerchief]] ({{circa|1830s}}). Note the {{lang|tl|sayasaya}} trousers.
</gallery>

==See also==
* [[Fashion and clothing in the Philippines]]
* [[Manila shawl]]
* [[Baju Melayu]]

== References ==
{{reflist}}

== External links ==
* {{commonscatinline|Barong Tagalog}}

{{Symbols of the Philippines}}
{{Folk costume}}

[[Category:Culture of Batangas]]
[[Category:History of Asian clothing]]
[[Category:National symbols of the Philippines]]
[[Category:Philippine clothing]]
[[Category:Philippine fashion]]
[[Category:Tops (clothing)]]