View source for Berneray, North Uist

{{Short description|Island in the Sound of Harris, Outer Hebrides, Scotland}}
{{Other places|Berneray (disambiguation)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2022}}
{{Use British English|date=March 2025}}
{{Infobox Scottish island
|Map=
|coordinates = {{coord|57.72|-7.19|display=inline}}
|location_map=Scotland Outer Hebrides
|caption=Berneray shown within the Outer Hebrides
|official_name=Berneray
|GridReference=NF912817
|celtic name=Beàrnaraigh
|norse name=
|meaning of name=From [[Old Norse]] Bjorn's island
|area= {{convert|1010|ha|acre|0|abbr=on}}
|area rank= 50
|highest elevation=Beinn Shlèibhe, {{convert|93|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}
|Population=142<ref name=RESAS>{{RESAS}}</ref>
|population rank= 41
|population density ={{cvt|14|PD/km2}}<ref name=RESAS/><ref name=Smith/>
|main settlement= Borve and Rushgarry
|island group=[[Uist]] and [[Barra]] 
|local authority=[[Outer Hebrides]]
|references=<ref name=Smith>{{Haswell-Smith}}</ref><ref>{{Ordnance Survey}}</ref><ref name=MacanT>{{Gaelic Placenames}} p. 19</ref>
}}

'''Berneray''' ({{langx|gd|Beàrnaraigh na Hearadh}}) is an [[island]] and [[community council|community]] in the [[Sound of Harris]], [[Scotland]]. It is one of fifteen inhabited islands in the [[Outer Hebrides]]. It is famed for its rich and colourful history which has attracted much tourism. It lies within the [[South Lewis, Harris and North Uist National Scenic Area]],<ref>{{cite web|url=https://webarchive.nrscotland.gov.uk/3000/https://www.gov.scot/Resource/Doc/921/0109904.pdf|title=South Lewis, Harris & North Uist NSA 1:50,000 map|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|date=2010-12-20|access-date=2023-10-07}}</ref> one of [[national scenic area (Scotland)|40 such areas]] in Scotland which are defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/professional-advice/safeguarding-protected-areas-and-species/protected-areas/national-designations/national-scenic-areas/|title=National Scenic Areas|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|access-date=2018-06-07}}</ref>

With an area of {{convert|10.1|km2|acre|abbr=off}}, Berneray rises to a height of {{convert|305|ft|m}} at Beinn Shlèibhe (Moor Hill) and {{convert|278|ft|m}} at Cnoc Bhuirgh (Borve Hill). It is known for its sandy [[beach]]es backed with [[Dune|sand dunes]]. Tràigh Iar (West Beach), a three-mile stretch of wide, clean and often deserted sand, is widely acclaimed.<ref name="berneray beach">{{cite news| work=[[The Guardian]]| title=In praise of... Scottish islands| date=2006-11-11| url=https://www.theguardian.com/travel/2006/nov/11/travelnews | access-date=2009-01-10}}</ref>

There is strong evidence that points to Berneray being inhabited since the [[Bronze Age]], and possibly before. The island is scattered with ancient sacred sites, [[stone circles]], signs of [[Viking]] inhabitation and historical buildings, some several centuries old.

Although Berneray is geographically closer to North Uist, it is part of the Bays of Harris Estate and under the Parish of Harris.

==Etymology==
The name "Berneray" is from the [[Old Norse]] ''Bjarnar-øy'' and means either "Bjorn's island" or possibly "bear island".<ref name=Smith/> This island is known by Gaelic speakers as ''Beàrnaraigh na Hearadh'', meaning "Berneray of [[Harris, Outer Hebrides|Harris]]" to distinguish it from ''Beàrnaraigh Cheann Bharraigh'', literally "Berneray of Barra Head", now usually known in English simply as [[Barra Head]] and ''Beàrnaraigh Leòdhais'', known as [[Great Bernera]]. More recently Gaelic speakers have also used ''Beàrnaraigh Uibhist,'' i.e. "Berneray of Uist" to refer to the northern Berneray.<ref name=MacanT/>

==Demographics==
[[File:Pabbay and boat.jpg|thumb|left|A fishing boat passes between the west beach of Berneray and the island of Pabbay]]
In common with most islands in the Outer Hebrides, the population declined during the 19th and 20th centuries. However, the past few years has seen a stabilisation. The island's population was 138 as recorded by the [[United Kingdom Census 2011|2011 census]]<ref name=NRS>{{NRS1C}}</ref> a small rise since 2001 when there were 136 usual residents.<ref>{{GRO10}}</ref> During the same period [[List of Scottish islands|Scottish island]] populations as a whole grew by 4% to 103,702.<ref>[https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-scotland-23711202 "Scotland's 2011 census: Island living on the rise"]. BBC News. Retrieved 18 August 2013.</ref> By 2022 the usually resident population was 142.<ref name=RESAS/> Most people on Berneray speak [[Scottish Gaelic]], many as a first language.

==Commerce and transport==
{{CalMac Mallaig ferries}}
[[File:Borve-berneray.jpg|thumb|left|Borve and the machair]]
[[File:Berneray_Machair_(hazelisles).jpg|thumb|left|The Machair towards the West beach of Berneray]]
The main industries are [[fishing]], [[Croft (land)|crofting]] (small-scale individual farming), media/IT and tourism. Broadband internet provision became available in January 2006, giving an incentive to people wishing to relocate to Berneray and helping sustain the population and community.{{Citation needed|date=September 2009}}

A key feature of Berneray is its [[machair]]. The machair is a coastal plain made up of windblown shell sand. Traditional crofting practice, which involves summer agriculture using [[seaweed]] together with dung from winter grazing animals as natural [[Fertilizer|fertiliser]], has, over time, bound together and stabilised the land. The machair is ploughed in rotation, giving a patchwork of crops and fallow of different ages which supports a wide range of flowers. Berneray has a particularly fine machair, a result of careful [[Stewardship|husbandry]] by the island's crofters, helped by the absence of [[rabbit]]s.

[[File:Berneray youth hostel.jpg|thumb|The youth hostel on Berneray]]
The youth hostel on Berneray is part of the Gatliff Hebridean Hostels Trust. The hostel consists of two restored black houses and is located at a magnificent setting overlooking the sound of Harris.

Possibly the greatest change in modern times occurred in 1999 when the [[causeway]] opened between Berneray and [[Otternish]] on North Uist. This has eased travelling on and off the island, improving employment prospects and accelerating the carriage of produce (notably, crabs and lobster). The causeway contains [[culvert]]s that allow the easy passage of otters and fish from one side of the structure to the other. The causeway was formally opened by Prince Charles in April 1999.<ref>{{cite web| url=http://www.ports.org.uk/port.asp?id=484| title=Otternish| publisher=Ports and Harbours of the UK| access-date=13 September 2009}}</ref> It is the first of a series of causeways connecting islands in the area. The North Ford Causeway (the A865) connects North Uist to the [[Isle of Benbecula]]. The South Ford Causeway (still the A865) connects Benbecula to [[South Uist]]. Finally, the Eriskay Causeway connects South Uist to [[Eriskay]].<ref>[https://www.visitouterhebrides.co.uk/planning-your-trip/getting-about Getting about] – VisitOuterHebrides.co.uk</ref>

Berneray is served by regular local bus services from [[Lochmaddy]] on [[North Uist]], many of which form part of the "Spine Route" from Eriskay. Most services are operated by Grenitote Travel, with funding from [[Comhairle nan Eilean Siar]]. Berneray is also linked to [[Harris, Scotland]] via [[Leverburgh]] by the ferry {{MV|Loch Portain}}, operated by [[Caledonian MacBrayne]].

The CalMac ferry {{MV|Loch Bhrusda}} is named after the largest loch on Berneray. It can occasionally be seen relieving for MV ''Loch Portain''.

==Nature==
[[File:Berneray Seals.jpg|thumb|left|Grey seals, from the seal view point in Bay's Loch]]
{{Main|Nature of the Outer Hebrides}}
The crofting practices also encourage a wide array of wildlife on Berneray. On early summer evenings you can sometimes hear [[Common snipe|snipe]] drumming, and even the rasp of a [[corncrake]]. [[Mute swan]]s can be seen on Loch Brusda, and [[Greylag goose|greylag geese]] are common. In the winter they are joined by [[Barnacle goose|barnacle]], and a few [[Brent goose|brent geese]]. [[Common raven|Ravens]], [[grey heron]]s and [[common buzzard|buzzards]] are often to be seen. [[Golden eagle]]s and [[hen harrier]]s are rarer sights, usually in the winter. Wading birds on the shore include [[Common redshank|redshank]], [[sanderling]], [[turnstone]], [[Eurasian oystercatcher|oystercatcher]], [[dunlin]], [[Eurasian curlew|curlew]], [[Eurasian whimbrel|whimbrel]], [[ringed plover]].

Further out, around the shores of Berneray, are [[mallard]]s, [[Common eider|eiders]], [[red-breasted merganser]]s, and, more rarely, [[Black-throated diver|black-throated]] and [[great northern diver]]s. [[Common shag|Shags]] and [[Great cormorant|cormorants]] fish in the seas around Berneray throughout the year, and in summer you can see [[Northern gannet|gannets]] diving. [[Common seal]]s often congregate at low tide on the rocks in Bays Loch, and can often be seen from the parking area a little way beyond the Post Office or by taking a boat trip out into the bay. [[Grey seal]]s, which are larger and can be distinguished by the long [[Roman nose|"Roman" noses]], also haul out there occasionally, but are more common off the West Beach. Though the [[Eurasian otter|otters]] of Berneray are out during the day more often than on the mainland, they are still elusive, and it takes patience and luck to see one.

==Media and the arts==
A documentary entitled [[Shepherds of Berneray]] was aired on UK television in 1981.

Berneray was in world news in 1987 when it was found that [[Charles, Prince of Wales]] had visited the island to live a normal Berneray life as a crofter.<ref name="splash">{{cite news| url=http://news.scotsman.com/inverness/Berneray-crofter-who-hosted-prince.5511575.jp| title=Berneray crofter who hosted prince on secret visit dies at 78| date=31 July 2009| publisher=[[The Scotsman]]| access-date=2009-08-29}}</ref> He lived and worked with a crofter for one week and his visit spawned the later television documentary, ''[[A Prince Among Islands]]'', in 1991.

In 2007 a DVD called ''The Old New Year – a living tradition on the Isle of Berneray'' - was released about the island's ''Oidhche Challainn'' ("New Year's Eve", literally "Night of the [[Calends]]) celebration of New Year on 12 January in line the former Highland tradition of following the [[Julian Calendar]].<ref>[http://www.hi-arts.co.uk/default.aspx.locid-hianewn9e.html "Oidhche Challuinn DVD now available"]{{dead link|date=July 2017 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }} (21 November 2007) Hi-Arts. Retrieved 25 June 2009.</ref>

In 2009 it was reported that Berneray's west beach had been used to advertise Kae Bae beach in [[Trat Province]], [[Thailand]]. A [[VisitScotland]] spokeswoman said that "I'm sure it is a compliment in disguise."<ref>[https://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/highlands_and_islands/8413627.stm "Scots beach in Thai tourist guide"]. BBC. Retrieved 20 December 2009.</ref>

The traditional Gaelic song 'Fàgail Bheàrnaraigh' (Leaving Berneray) later became the American folk song "O, Waly, Waly' The Water is Wide" with new lyrics added in English.

The English singer [[Vashti Bunyan]] wrote much of her debut album ''Just Another Diamond Day'' while living in a croft on Berneray. She revisits her old home at the end of [[Kieran Evans]]' documentary film about Bunyan's early life, ''Vashti Bunyan: From Here To Before''.<ref>[https://www.thesocial.com/from-here-to-before-and-back-again-kieran-evans/ "From Here To Before And Back Again – Kieran Evans"]. The Social. Retrieved 16 August 2020.</ref>

==Famous residents==
* Berneray is the birthplace of the [[gigantism|giant]] [[Angus MacAskill]].
* [[Iain Eairdsidh MacAsgaill]], a [[World War I]] veteran of the [[Queen's Own Cameron Highlanders|King's Own Cameron Highlanders]], [[Western Australia]]n [[bush poet]] in [[Scottish Gaelic language|Scottish Gaelic]], and highly important figure in 20th-century [[Scottish Gaelic literature]], was born and raised on Berneray.
* [[Donald MacKillop]] (1926 - 2015), a songwriter, poet, and important figure in [[Scottish Gaelic literature]], was also from Berneray.
* [[Fish (singer)]] (1958 -) the Scottish writer, singer & actor owns a crofting smallholding on Berneray and has publicised plans to permanently relocate there in 2024/5 with his partner, as he retires from the music industry.<ref>[https://www.scottishdailyexpress.co.uk/celebrity-news/rock-star-fish-swaps-haddington-29581695 "Rock star Fish swaps Haddington for quiet life on remote Hebridean island"]. The Scottish Daily Express. Retrieved 18 March 2024.</ref>

==See also==
{{Portal|Scottish islands}}
* [[List of islands of Scotland]]
* [[Burghead#Burning of the Clavie|Burghead]] - an east coast village that also celebrates the Old New Year.
* [[Newtonferry]] - a village on North Uist

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==External links==
{{Sister project links|wikt=no|v=no|q=no|s=no|b=no|voy=Berneray}}
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20060304192141/http://www.robinwilson.net/berneraybeach/berneraybeach.html Panorama of Berneray Beach] (QuickTime required)
*[http://www.ampaipear.org.uk Am Paipear Community Newspaper]
*[http://www.isleofberneray.com Berneray community website]

{{Coord|57|43|10|N|7|11|11|W|display=title}}
{{Sound of Harris}}
{{Hebrides}}
{{Islands of Scotland}}

[[Category:Islands of the Sound of Harris]]
[[Category:Uist islands]]