View source for Changshan

{{Short description|Men's traditional clothing in late imperial China}}
{{for-multi|the female version|Cheongsam|other uses|Changshan (disambiguation)}}
{{more citations needed|date=May 2010}}
{{Italic title|reason=[[:Category:Chinese words and phrases]]}}{{Infobox Chinese
| c = 長衫
| p = Chángshān
| altname = Changpao
| l = Long shirt
| c2 = 長袍
| p2 = chángpáo
| l2 = Long robe
| altname3 = Dagua
| c3 = 大褂
| p3 = Dàguà
| l3 = Great jacket
| pic = File:People of the Journal of Sinological Studies.jpg
| pic2= File:鲁迅大病初愈后在大陆新村寓所门前.jpg
| piccap = ''Above:'' Men wearing ''changshan'' for Journal of Sinological Studies in 1924. 
''Below'': [[Lu Xun]] wearing changshan.
}}

'''{{Transliteration|zh|Changshan}}''' ({{zh|t={{linktext|長衫}}|p=chángshān|l=long shirt}}; {{IPAc-cmn|AUD|Chang2shan1.ogg|ch|ang|2|sh|an|1}}), also known as '''{{Transliteration|zh|changpao}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c={{linktext|長袍}}|links=|p=chángpáo|l=Long robe}}), and '''{{Transliteration|zh|dagua}}''' ({{Lang-zh|c={{linktext|大褂}}|links=|p=Dàguà|l=Great jacket}}), is a form of {{Transliteration|zh|[[paofu]]}}, Chinese robe, which was derived from the [[Qing dynasty]] {{Transliteration|zh|[[qizhuang]]}}, the traditional dress of the [[Manchu people]], which were worn by Manchu men.<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |first=Valery |last=Garrett |title=Chinese dress from the Qing Dynasty to the present day |date=2019 |publisher=Tuttle Publishing |isbn=978-0-8048-5256-2 |oclc=1281840650}}</ref>{{Rp|page=129}} The {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} was actually developed by the [[Han Chinese]] through the modification of their own [[Ming dynasty|Ming dynasty's]] {{Transliteration|zh|[[Hanfu]]}} by adopting some Manchu men's clothing elements in one of their {{Transliteration|zh|[[Hanfu]]}} {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}}.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=129}} In function, the {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} is considered the male equivalent of the women's ''[[cheongsam]]'' (also known as ''{{Transliteration|zh|qipao}}''). The {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} was often worn by men with a {{Transliteration|zh|[[magua (clothing)|magua]]}}, also commonly translated as ''riding jacket'' in English.

== Terminology ==
[[File:毕沅.jpg|thumb|left|Portrait of scholar [[Bi Yuan]] wearing ''changshan''.]]
=== General term ===

{{See also|Chang'ao|paofu}}
The term {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} is composed of two Chinese characters: {{Transliteration|zh|chang}} ({{zh|t={{linktext|長}}|p=|l=|labels=no}}) which can literally be translated as {{Gloss|long}} in length and {{Transliteration|zh|[[ru (upper garment)|shan]]}} ({{zh|t={{linktext|衫}}|p=|l=|labels=no}}), which literally means {{Gloss|[[shirt]]}}. The term {{Transliteration|zh|changpao}} is also composed of the Chinese character {{Transliteration|zh|chang}} and the Chinese {{Transliteration|zh|[[paofu|pao]]}} ({{Lang-zh|c={{linktext|袍}}|links=|l=|labels=no}}), which literally means {{Gloss|robe}}. As general terms used in the broad sense, the {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} and {{Transliteration|zh|changpao}} can refer to any form of long shirt and long robes respectively.

=== Specific term ===
The [[Mandarin Chinese]] word {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} is cognate with the [[Standard Cantonese|Cantonese]] term {{Transliteration|zh|Cheongsam}} ({{zh|t={{linktext|長衫}}|p=|l=|labels=no}}). This was then borrowed into English as ''cheongsam.''

Unlike the Mandarin term, however, the {{Transliteration|zh|chèuhngsàam}} can refer to both male and female garments. In [[Hong Kong]] the term is frequently used to refer to the female garment, [[cheongsam]], rather than the male garment {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}}.

Because of the long British presence in [[Hong Kong]], that local usage has become reflected in the meaning of ''cheongsam'' in English, which refers exclusively to the female garment.

== Origins and development ==
{{See also|Daopao|Zhiduo (clothing)}}
What is now known as the Chinese {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} was developed by the Han Chinese during the [[Qing dynasty]].<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=129}} The Qing dynasty Chinese {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} started to be worn by the Han Chinese after the Manchu conquest.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=129}} The Chinese {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} was actually a modified version of the {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} worn in the [[Ming dynasty]] (1368–1644 AD), the preceding dynasty before the Qing dynasty,<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=129}} and was modelled after the Manchu's men's {{lang|cmn-Latn|changpao}}.{{cn|date=October 2025}}
{{Multiple image
| total_width       = 300
| image1            = 查慎行.jpg
| image2            = Hongzhou.jpg
| caption_align     = center
| align             = right
| header_align      = center
| footer_align      = center
| header            = Chinese changshan and Manchu neitao
| footer            = Differences between the Chinese changshan (left) and Manchu neitao (right), Qing dynasty
}}

Manchu men wore a type of {{lang|cmn-Latn|changpao}} which reflected its equestrian origins,<ref name=":0">{{cite book |last=Rhoads |first=Edward J. M. |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=tgq1miGno-4C&pg=PA61 |title=Manchus & Han: Ethnic Relations and Political Power in Late Qing and Early Republican China, 1861–1928 |publisher=University of Washington Press |year=2000 |isbn=9780295979380 |series=Studies on Ethnic Groups in China |location=Seattle |page=61 |oclc=43569203}}</ref> which was originally designed for horseback riding, known as {{lang|cmn-Latn|[[Qizhuang#Ordinary dress (Changfu)/ casual dress (Bianfu)|neitao]]}}, which was characterized by two pair of slits (one slit on each side, one slit on the back, and one slit on the front) which increased ease of movement when mounting and dismounting horses, a {{lang|cmn-Latn|[[Garment collars in Hanfu#Pipa-shaped collar|pianjin]]}} collar (a collar which curved like the alphabet《S》), and the sleeve cuffs known as {{lang|cmn-Latn|[[matixiu]]}} ({{Lang-zh|c=马蹄袖|p=mǎtíxiù|l=horse hoof cuff}}).<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=27}}

The Han Chinese thus adopted certain Manchu elements when modifying their Ming dynasty {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}}, such as by slimming their {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}}, by adopting the {{lang|cmn-Latn|[[Garment collars in Hanfu#Pipa-shaped collar|pianjin]]}} collar of the Manchu, and by using buttons and loops at the neck and sides.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=129}} Despite the shared similarities with Manchu's {{lang|cmn-Latn|neitao}}, the Chinese {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} differed structurally from the Manchu's {{lang|cmn-Latn|neitao}}. The Chinese {{Transliteration|zh|changshan}} only has two slits on the sides lacking the central front and back slits and lacked the presence of the {{lang|cmn-Latn|[[matixiu]]}} cuffs; the sleeves were also longer than the ones found in the {{lang|cmn-Latn|neitao}}.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=129}}

==History==
{{main|Cheongsam#History|Tifayifu|l1 = Cheongsam History}}
[[File:A Male Cheongsam at Traditional Chinese Clothing lectures.jpg|thumb|Changshan displayed at Hong Kong Museum of History]]
The precursors of both the ''changshan'' and the ''qipao'' were introduced to China during the [[Qing dynasty]] (17th–20th centuries). The [[Manchu]]s in 1636 ordered that all [[Han Chinese]] should adopt the Manchu's hairstyle as well as their attire of dress or face harsh punishment including death penalty. However, by the time of the [[Qianlong Emperor]], however, the adoption of Manchu clothing dressing code was only required to the scholar-official elites and did not apply to the entire male population.''<ref name=":0" />'' The court dress of the Qing dynasty also had to follow the attire of the Manchu people;''<ref name=":0" />'' however, commoner Han men and women were still allowed to wear the ''[[hanfu]]'' under some circumstances and/or if they fell under the exemptions of the Tifayifu policy. The order of wearing Manchu's hairstyle however still remained as a fundamental rule for all Chinese men.''<ref name=":0" />''

Over time, the commoner Han men adopted the ''changshan'' while Han women continued to the wear the hanfu predominantly in the style of [[Ruqun|aoqun]]. The traditional Chinese [[Han Chinese clothing|Hanfu]]-style of clothing for men was gradually replaced. Over time, the Manchu-style of male dress gained popularity among Han men.''<ref name=":0" />''
[[File:Photographs by Fr. Leone Nani presenting the early 20th century China - 133.jpg|thumb|''Changshan'' worn by students at a Catholic School in [[Hanzhong]].]]
''Changshan'' was considered formal dress for Chinese men before Western-style [[Suit (clothes)|suits]] were widely adopted in China. The male ''changshan'' could be worn under a western overcoat, and topped with a fedora and scarf. This combination expressed an [[East Asia]]n modernity in the early 20th century.

The 1949 [[Chinese Civil War|Communist Revolution]] replaced the wearing of ''changshan'' and other traditional clothing with the [[Zhongshan suit]]. [[Shanghainese people|Shanghainese]] emigrants and refugees carried the fashion to [[Hong Kong]], where it remained popular, but over time it was overtaken by western fashions. After the 1970s, Shanghai and elsewhere in [[mainland China]], many people have revived wearing the Shanghainese ''changshan.''

==Use of changshan==
[[File:传统相声"大保镖".jpg|thumb|''Changshan'' is often worn by traditional performers, such as for ''[[xiangsheng]]''.]]
''Changshan'' are traditionally worn for formal pictures, weddings, and other formal Chinese events.  A black ''changshan,'' along with a rounded black hat, was, and sometimes still is, the burial attire for Chinese men. ''Changshan'' are not often worn {{As of|2007|alt=today}} in mainland China, except during traditional Chinese celebrations but, with the revival of some traditional clothing in urban mainland China, the Shanghainese style functions as a stylish party dress (''cf.'' [[Mao suit]]).

== See also ==

* [[Magua (clothing)]]
* [[Qizhuang]]
* [[Tangzhuang]]
* [[Hanfu]]

==References==
<references />

== External links ==

* [https://collection.maas.museum/object/184900 Neitao (a form of changfu) collected in the Museum of Applied Arts & Sciences]
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