View source for Changtse

{{short description|Mountain in Tibet}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Changtse
| photo = Changtse-from-KalaPattar.jpg
| photo_caption = 
| elevation_m = 7543
| elevation_ref = <br/><small>[[List of highest mountains|Ranked 44th]]</small>
| prominence_m = 497
| prominence_ref = <ref>{{cite pb|pid=10638|name=Changtse}}</ref>
| map = China Tibet topography#China
| map_size = 270
| label_position = top
| translation = North Peak
| language = [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan]]
| location = [[Tibet Autonomous Region]], [[China]]
| range = [[Mahalangur Himal]]
| coordinates = {{coord|28|01|31|N|86|54|51|E|type:mountain_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = 
| first_ascent = October 1982
| easiest_route = snow/ice climb
}}
{{infobox Chinese
|s=章子峰
|t=章子峰
|p=
}}
'''Changtse''' ({{langx|bo|བྱང་རྩེ|lit=north peak}}, {{CJKV|c=章子峰}}) is a [[mountain]] situated between the Main Rongbuk and East [[Rongbuk Glacier]]s in [[Tibet Autonomous Region]], [[China]], immediately north of [[Mount Everest]]. It is connected to Mount Everest via the [[North Col]].

The given elevation of 7,543 metres is from modern Chinese mapping. Some authorities give 7,583 metres instead.

The [[Changtse Glacier]] flows north into the East [[Rongbuk Glacier]]. It is possible that the third highest lake in the world<ref>[http://www.highestlake.com/highest-lake-world.html#Changtse The Highest Lake in the World: 3. "Changtse Pool"]</ref> is in the Changtse Glacier at {{convert|6216|m|ft|0}}.

==Timeline==
*1924 [[George Mallory]] and [[Andrew Irvine (mountaineer)|Andrew Irvine]] first to set foot on Changtse. They climbed the east ridge of Changtse to reconnoiter camp sites on the East [[Rongbuk Glacier]].
*1935 During the [[1935 British Mount Everest reconnaissance expedition|Mount Everest Reconnaissance]] a team with [[Eric Shipton]], [[Edmund Wigram]] and [[Bill Tilman]] attempted the North Peak from their Camp IIA . On August 21 they got to within {{convert|1500|ft|m}} of the summit before very deep and soft snow forced them to turn back.<ref>Tony Astill, ''Mount Everest: The Reconnaissance 1935'', pp. 266-67.</ref>
*1952 [[Reconnaissance]] of Changtse via Changtse Glacier by [[Edmund Hillary]] and [[George Lowe (mountaineer)|George Lowe]] and a group of [[Sherpa (people)|Sherpa]]s. They reached an estimated elevation of {{convert|21500|ft|m}} before turning back after running low on supplies.
*1982 The [[first ascent]] of Changtse was unofficially made on October 3, 1982, by Johan Taks of the Dutch Everest Expedition who were officially climbing the north side of Everest. However, Taks climbed Changtse without a permit.
*1982 The first official ascent of Changtse with a permit was completed 11 days later on October 14 by five members of a German expedition Udo Zehetleitner, Paul Braun, Rudolf Frick, Ludwig Hösle and Martin Engler. The ascent was made via the four kilometre-long NE Ridge from the junction of the East Rongbuk Glacier and Changtse Glacier.<ref name=AAJ_1983/>
*1983 The next ascent (but illegal) and also the first solo was made by Chilean climber [[Gino Casassa]] May 14, 1983 by the same route used by the Germans.<ref name=AAJ_1984/>
*1986 Changtse was climbed again by a large Chinese-Japanese expedition in 1986. This expedition put eight Japanese and 16 Chinese on the summit May 10 and May 11, 1986, again via the NE Ridge from the Changtse Glacier. Also included the first ascent by a woman, Mrs. Gunsung.
*1986 American climber Ed Webster made the first solo ascent via the SE face from the foot of the North Col on August 28, 1986. Most of this climb was done at night, taking advantage of more stable snow and ice conditions.<ref name=AAJ_1991/>
*1987 Australian climbers Rob Turner and Glen Nash reached the summit September 29, 1987 via the north face icewall (Japanese 1986 route) despite high winds.<ref name=AAJ_1988/><ref>''Wild Issue 28'' (April 1988), pp 33-36.</ref>

==Overview==
{{Himalaya annotated imagemap|caption=Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the [[International Space Station]]. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)|align=none}}
[[File:North Col of Mount Everest.jpg|thumb|left|800px|{{center|''Changtse''}}]]
{{clear}}

==References==
{{Reflist|33em|refs=
<ref name=AAJ_1983>
  {{cite aaj | title = Asia, China, Changtse | article_id=12198329401 | year=1983
  | department=Climbs And Expeditions | first=Eduard | last=Geyer
  | volume=25 | issue=57 | pages=294 | access-date=2025-05-26}}</ref>
<ref name=AAJ_1984>
  {{cite aaj | title = Asia, China, Changtse, Illegal Ascent to Northeast Summit | article_id=12198431001 | year=1984
  | department=Climbs And Expeditions | first=Gino | last=Casassa 
  | volume=26 | issue=58 | pages=310 | links=off | access-date=2025-05-26}}</ref>
<ref name=AAJ_1988>
  {{cite aaj|title=Asia, Tibet, Changtse|article_id=12198827204 | year=1988
  | department=Climbs And Expeditions|first=Louis A.|last=Whitton
  | volume=30 | issue=62 | pages=272 | links=off | access-date=2025-05-26}}</ref>
<ref name=AAJ_1991>
  {{cite aaj | title = Asia, Tibet, Changtse, Southeast Face, 1986 | article_id=12199128801 | year=1991
  | department=Climbs And Expeditions | first=Ed | last=Webster 
  | volume=33 | issue=65 | pages=288 | links=off | access-date=2025-05-26}}</ref>
}}

==Bibliography==
* Astill, Tony. ''Mount Everest : The Reconnaissance 1935''. Published by the Author, 2005. {{ISBN|0-9549201-0-4}}

{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Mountains of Tibet]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas]]