View source for Eltham

{{Short description|District of southeast London, England}}
{{about|the area of London}}
{{Distinguish|Elham (disambiguation){{!}}Elham}}
{{Use British English|date=September 2015}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=March 2024}}
{{Infobox UK place
| official_name            = Eltham
| london_borough           = Greenwich
| region                   = London
| country                  = England
| population               = 48,964
| population_ref           = (2011 Census. 4 Wards. Middle Park and Sutcliffe, Eltham, North, South and West)<ref name="ONS">{{Cite web |title=KS101EW (Usual resident population) - Nomis - Official Labour Market Statistics |url=https://www.nomisweb.co.uk/census/2011/ks101ew |access-date=2022-03-23 |website=nomisweb.co.uk |publisher=Office for National Statistics |publication-date=2013-02-12}}</ref>
| post_town                = LONDON
| postcode_area            = SE
| postcode_district        = SE9, SE12 (part)
| dial_code                = 020
| coordinates              = {{coord|51.451|0.052|display=inline,title}}
| os_grid_reference        = TQ425745
| constituency_westminster = [[Eltham and Chislehurst (UK Parliament constituency)|Eltham & Chislehurst]]
| static_image             = St Barnabas church, Eltham (geograph 2650441).jpg
| static_image_caption     = St Barnabas Church
}}
[[File:Eltham wards.png|thumb|256px| Map 1. The three current Eltham [[wards in the United Kingdom|electoral wards]] (green), in the [[Eltham (UK Parliament constituency)|Eltham constituency]] (yellow) within the [[Royal Borough of Greenwich]] (light grey)]]

'''Eltham''' ({{IPAc-en|ˈ|ɛ|l|t|əm}} {{respell|EL|təm}}) is a district of [[South London|southeast]] [[London]], England, within the [[Royal Borough of Greenwich]]. It is {{convert|8.7|mi|km|1}} east-southeast of [[Charing Cross]], and is identified in the [[London Plan]] as one of 35 major centres in [[Greater London]].<ref name=london_plan_f08>{{cite web|url=http://www.london.gov.uk/thelondonplan/docs/londonplan08.pdf |author=Mayor of London |publisher=[[Greater London Authority]] |title=London Plan (Consolidated with Alterations since 2004) |date=February 2008 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100602000714/http://www.london.gov.uk/thelondonplan/docs/londonplan08.pdf |archive-date=2 June 2010 |author-link=Mayor of London }}</ref> The three wards of Eltham North, South and West have a total population of 35,459.<ref name=ONS/> 88,000 people live in Eltham.

==History==

===Origins===
Eltham developed along part of the road from London to [[Maidstone]], and lies {{convert|3|mi|km|1}} almost due south of [[Woolwich]]. [[Mottingham]], to the south, became part of the parish on the abolition of all [[extra-parochial area]]s, which were rare anomalies in the parish system. [[Eltham College]] and other parts of Mottingham were therefore not considered within Eltham's boundaries even before the 1860s.

From the sixth century Eltham was in the ancient [[Lathe of Sutton at Hone]]. In the [[Domesday Book]] of 1086 its hundred was named ''Gren[u/v]iz'' (Greenwich), which by 1166 was renamed ''Blachehedfeld'' [[Blackheath, Kent (hundred)|(Blackheath)]] because it had become the location of the annual or more frequent [[Hundred (county division)|hundred]] gathering.

{{blockquote|Eltham lies in the hundred of Blackheath, at the distance of eight miles from London, on the road to Maidstone. The parish is bounded by Woolwich, Plumsted, and the extraparochial hamlet of Kidbrooke, on the north; by Bexley on the east and south east; by Chislehurst on the south; by the extraparochial hamlet of Mottingham, on the south-west, and by Lee on the west. It contains about {{convert|2880|acres|km2}}: of which about 360 are woodland; about 60 waste; about three fifths of the cultivated land are arable. ....This place had formerly a market on Tuesdays, and two fairs; one at the festival of the Holy Trinity, and the other at that of St. Peter and St. Paul; both of which have been long discontinued.|Daniel Lysons, 1796|The Environs of London<ref name="british-history.ac.uk">Daniel Lysons. (1796) The Environs of London. Vol 4. Pages 394-421. http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=45484</ref>}}

By the 1880s the lathes and hundreds of Kent had become obsolete, with the civil parishes and other districts assuming modern governmental functions.

Eltham was a [[civil parish]] of [[Kent]] until 1889 when it became part of the [[County of London]]{{citation needed|date=April 2018}} and from 1900 formed part of the [[Metropolitan Borough of Woolwich]]. The metropolitan borough was abolished in 1965 and Eltham then became part of the then London Borough of Greenwich.

Eltham today is one of the largest suburban developments in the borough with a population of almost 88,000 people.{{fact|date=February 2025}}

===Early development===

[[File:Eltham Palace (25098625346).jpg|thumb|[[Eltham Palace]]]]

Eltham lies on a high, sandy plateau which gave it a strategic significance. That, and the fact of its position close to the main route to the [[English Channel]] ports in Kent, led to the creation of the moated medieval [[Eltham Palace]], still its most notable landmark. Daniel Lysons<ref name="british-history.ac.uk"/> described its origins.

{{blockquote|The Kings of England had a palace at Eltham at a very early period ... Henry the Third, in the year 1270, kept a public Christmas at his palace of Eltham, being accompanied by the Queen, and all the great men of the realm. Anthony Bec, Bishop of Durham, and Patriarch of Jerusalem, bestowed great cost, we are told, on the buildings at this place, and died there on the 28th of March 1311, having, as it is said, some time before given Eltham-house to Edward the Second, or, as some say, to Queen Isabel.... Edward frequently resided here. In 1315, his Queen was brought to bed of a son in this palace, called, from that circumstance, John of Eltham. Edward the Third held a Parliament at Eltham in 1329, and again in 1375.}}

The nearby manor of Well Hall was home to Sir John Pulteney, four times [[Lord Mayor of London]], and later to wealthy Catholic [[William Roper (biographer)|William Roper]] and his wife Margaret (daughter of Sir Thomas More, known to Catholics as [[Saint]] [[Thomas More]], Chancellor to King [[Henry VIII]]). In 1733 Sir [[Sir Gregory Page, 2nd Baronet|Gregory Page]] bought this estate for £19,000 and demolished Roper House, building Page House – later known as Well Hall House – on the site. Until its demolition in 1931, Well Hall House variously served as a home to [[watchmaker]] [[John Arnold (watchmaker)|John Arnold]], and later to socialist [[Hubert Bland]] and author [[Edith Nesbit]].

Also of note is Avery Hill Park and its former mansion, accessed from Bexley Road and at various points along the three miles (5&nbsp;km) of other streets that surround the park. Avery Hill was the home of [[John Thomas North|Colonel North]], who made his fortune working in the Chilean nitrate industry. A hothouse is still open to the public and contains temperate and tropical plants. There are also remnants of the formal gardens in the public park. The mansion was part of the [[University of Greenwich]], which had a significant presence on two sites in the area. However, in 2014 the university announced its intentions to withdraw from the site and has now done so.

===Suburban development after 1900===
The village streets adjacent to the Palace, and the surrounding land, remained rural until [[Archibald Cameron Corbett]] bought the Eltham Park Estate and developed it with well-built suburban housing between 1900 and 1914. The Bexley Heath Railway (see below) had opened what came to be known as the [[Bexleyheath Line]] in 1895. Suburban development of the district accelerated when the Government, through His Majesty's Office of Works, built the [[Progress Estate]] in [[Well Hall]] and large estates of temporary [[Shanty town|hutment]]s in 1915, to house the vastly increased numbers of wartime workers in the [[Royal Arsenal]] at [[Woolwich]]. In the early years it was called, rather pretentiously, "Well Hall Garden City".<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.ideal-homes.org.uk/case-studies/progress-estate|title=Case Studies - Progress Estate|work=ideal-homes.org.uk|access-date=1 October 2015|archive-date=1 October 2015|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151001174119/http://www.ideal-homes.org.uk/case-studies/progress-estate|url-status=dead}}</ref> Its name was changed to "[[Progress Estate]]" when it was purchased by the [[Royal Arsenal Co-operative Society]] in 1925. It compares well with later groups of municipal housing in south London – which is surprising given the fact that it was constructed rapidly between February and December 1915 and is sub-divided by the [[South Circular Road, London|South Circular Road]] and (until about 1988) by the even busier [[A2 road (Great Britain)|A2]] [[Trunk Road]]. The Progress Estate was made a Conservation Area in 2007.

'''Urban development''' 
<gallery mode="packed">
File:Eltham map 1870.jpg|Map 2. Eltham in 1870
File:Eltham map 1898.jpg|Map 3. Eltham in 1898
File:Eltham map 1908.png|Map 4. Eltham in 1908
File:Eltham map 1928.png|Map 5. Eltham in 1928
File:Eltham map 2014.png|Map 6. Eltham in 2014 (Source: OpenStreetMap)
</gallery>

After World War I the building of housing estates continued unabated. By the beginning of World War II, four large estates were in existence: the [[Progress Estate]] (1915), the Page Estate (1923), [[Middle Park, London|Middle Park]] (1931–36), and [[Horn Park]] (begun 1936, completed 1950s). The latter two were built on Eltham Palace's former hunting parks. [[Coldharbour Estate]] was built in 1947. The small council estates of Pippenhall and Strongbow Crescent were completed about 1960. Since that time new house building has been limited to small private "infill developments" and replacements for demolished properties.

Eltham residents occupy a housing stock of mixed age, particularly towards Eltham Park and the multiple streets with 'Glen' in their names. There are some fine houses scattered around Eltham. At least two roads, North Park and Court Road, contain million pound homes, and some of the older Victorian buildings have been subdivided into apartments.

A [[Micropub]], The Long Pond, was opened in December 2014 - the first pub in Eltham Park for at least 115 years as Archibald Cameron Corbett would not give permission for pubs and put a restrictive covenant on the land. However, since the [[Licensing Act 2003]] was implemented in 2005, Premise Licences are now granted by the local authority ([[Greenwich London Borough Council]]) instead of magistrates, as long as the applicant satisfies the council and the "responsible authorities" (such as Police, Environmental Health, Fire Service) that they will uphold the four licensing objectives (prevention of crime and disorder; public safety; prevention of public nuisance, protection of children from harm), then a licence will be granted. Several licensed premises in Eltham Park now offer "Off Sales".

'''Domestic architecture''' 
<gallery mode="packed">
File:Eltham houses 1.jpg|The Lord Chancellor's Lodging {{circa}} 1420
File:Eltham houses 11.jpg|Clapboard cottage {{circa}} 1750
File:Eltham houses 12.jpg|Pair of cottages {{circa}} 1800
File:Eltham houses 13.jpg|Villas {{circa}} 1880
File:Eltham houses 14.jpg|Terrace houses {{circa}} 1880
File:Eltham houses 2.jpg|"Corbett Houses" Eltham Park {{circa}} 1905
File:Eltham houses 3.jpg|"Corbett Houses" Well Hall {{circa}} 1905
File:Eltham houses 4.jpg|[[Progress Estate]]. Built 1915
File:Eltham houses 5.jpg|Semi-detached houses. Built 1938
File:Eltham houses 6.jpg|Local authority houses {{circa}} 1955
File:Eltham houses 15.jpg|Flats {{circa}} 1980. Replaced Victorian villas
File:Eltham houses 16.jpg|Flats {{circa}} 2012. Replaced old swimming pool
</gallery>

===Incidents===
In 1990, an IRA bomb outside the [[Eltham Palace]] headquarters of the [[Royal Army Educational Corps]] injured seven people (see [[1990 Eltham bombing]]).<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.heraldscotland.com/news/11945739.YARD_WARNS_IRA_HIT_SQUADS_MAY_BE_ACTIVE_IN_MAINLAND_BRITAIN_Bomb_in_flower_bed/|title=YARD WARNS IRA HIT SQUADS MAY BE ACTIVE IN MAINLAND BRITAIN Bomb in flower bed|website=HeraldScotland|date=15 May 1990 |access-date=22 March 2018}}</ref> The area was targeted three times by the [[Mardi Gra bomber]] in the 1990s.

== Geography ==

=== Description and location ===
[[File:Eltham physical geography.png|right|thumbnail|Map 6. Eltham: contours and water courses]]
Eltham has a varied [[topography]]. Map 6 shows contours, spot heights and water courses. The centre of Eltham is on a plateau at about the 60m level with the High Street running along its centre.  There is a scarp slope to the west of the plateau from the top of which are unrestricted views across [[South London]]. [[Eltham Palace]] occupies a commanding position on the edge of the scarp. Eltham Hill offers the steepest descent from the plateau, starting at Eltham High Street and descending 30m over 1&nbsp;km due west at the ''Yorkshire Grey'' (now a [[McDonald's]] outlet). The land to the north of Eltham rises to form the southern slope of [[Shooter's Hill]], one of the [[List of highest points in London|highest points in London]] at a height of {{convert|130|m|ft|order=flip}}. The recently (2014) restored 18th century [[Belvedere (structure)|belvedere]] [[Severndroog Castle]] offers wide views from its observation platform which is {{convert|150|m|ft|order=flip}} above sea level.

From Eltham Church at {{convert|60|m|ft|order=flip}} the High Street rises gently to {{convert|71|m|ft|order=flip}} and continues east as Bexley Road at a slightly lower level.

To the south the plateau slopes gently downwards to [[Mottingham]] (at {{convert|49.6|m|ft|order=flip}}) and [[New Eltham]] (at {{convert|46.1|m|ft|order=flip}})

Eltham is devoid of any major water features, although the [[River Thames]] is approximately {{convert|2|km|mi|1}} away from Eltham's northern limits. The most prominent body of water is the [[River Quaggy]] which runs to the south-west of Eltham and joins the [[River Ravensbourne]] at Lewisham. The Quaggy receives additional water from a tributary named Little Quaggy, flowing from the lake of [[The Tarn]] in Mottingham, and feeds the wetlands in [[Sutcliffe Park]]. The only other significant watercourse is the [[River Shuttle]], which rises in Avery Hill Park and flows east to join the [[River Cray]].

{{Geographic Location
|title = '''Destinations from Eltham'''
|Northwest = [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]]
|North     = [[Shooters Hill]]
|Northeast = [[Falconwood]]
|West      = [[Kidbrooke]]
|Centre    = Eltham
|East      = [[Avery Hill]]
|Southwest = [[Lee, London|Lee]] 
|South     = [[Mottingham]] 
|Southeast = [[New Eltham]]
}}

Other nearby areas
{{Div col|colwidth=10em}}
*[[Blackfen]] 
*[[Catford]] 
*[[Charlton, London|Charlton]] 
*[[Chislehurst]] 
*[[Downham, London|Downham]]
*[[Hither Green]]
*[[Greenwich]]
*[[Grove Park, Lewisham|Grove Park]] 
*[[Lewisham]] 
*[[Plumstead]] 
*[[Sidcup]] 
*[[Welling]] 
*[[Woolwich]]

{{Div col end}}

===Parks and open spaces===
[[File:Eltham greenchain.jpg|right|thumbnail|Green Chain Walks in and through Eltham]]
There is a large variety of open green space in Eltham, in the form of parkland, fields and woodland.
"[[Green Chain Walk]]s" are signposted footpaths that run through or link the green spaces. Some are also bridleways or cycle routes.

*''[[Avery Hill]] Park'' is large, open parkland, to the east. It is most notable for its Winter Garden, a [[Greenhouse|hothouse]] containing tropical trees and plants from around the world. The parkland was acquired by the [[London County Council]] in 1902.
*''Oxleas Woods, Castle Wood and Jack Wood'', directly north of Eltham, is a [[Site of Special Scientific Interest]]. Oxleas Wood covers {{convert|190.3|acre|km2|1}} and is at least 8,000&nbsp;years old. The wood is home to specimen of tree including oak, silver birch, hornbeam and coppice hazel. [[Severndroog Castle]], built in 1784 as a memorial to William James of the East India Company, stands in Castle Wood.
*''[[Sutcliffe Park]]'' is a {{convert|35|acre|km2|1}} park at the westernmost point of Eltham. Previously known as Harrow Meadow, the parkland was reclaimed from the [[River Quaggy]] in the 1930s. The Quaggy was diverted into [[culvert]]s, and the park officially opened in 1937 as Sutcliffe Park, named after the Borough's engineer. On 26 June 1954, the athletics track in Sutcliffe Park was opened, and has since been home to the Cambridge Harriers. In 2003, the park was re-landscaped as a wetland area. The River Quaggy was allowed to flow above-ground in the area, for the first time in 70&nbsp;years. The park borders the [[Ferrier Estate]], which was completed in 1970 and demolished by 2012 to make way for "Kidbrooke Village". 
*The ''[[Royal Blackheath Golf Club]]''<ref name="RBGC">{{Cite web |title=Royal Blackheath Golf Club |url=https://www.royalblackheath.com/ |access-date=2022-03-23}}</ref> dates back to [[Tudor period|Tudor]] times. The golf club, claimed to be founded in 1608 to the north in [[Blackheath, London|Blackheath]] and to the south since its merger with Eltham Golf club in 1923, is reportedly the oldest golf club in the world.<ref>{{cite web |title=History {{!}} Royal Blackheath Golf Club |url=https://www.royalblackheath.com/history |access-date=2011-08-29 |publisher=Royalblackheath.com}}</ref> However, other sources set its founding date to be 1766, which would still make it the oldest golf club outside of Scotland. The club house Eltham Lodge<ref>Eltham Lodge was built in 1664 to the design of Hugh May for John Shaw, banker to King Charles. II</ref> is a grade I listed building.
*Well Hall Pleasaunce<ref name="WHP">{{Cite web |title=Well Hall Pleasaunce - Eltham London Park SE9 |url=https://wellhall.org.uk/ |access-date=2022-03-23 |website=wellhall.org.uk}}</ref> – formal gardens, ponds and woodland, originally the site of a manor house, in [[Well Hall]]
*Eltham Park North<ref>[http://www.greenwich.gov.uk/Greenwich/YourEnvironment/GreenSpace/ParksGardens/Eltham/ElthamParkNorth.htm Greenwich Council – Eltham Park North] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081229221843/http://www.greenwich.gov.uk/Greenwich/YourEnvironment/GreenSpace/ParksGardens/Eltham/ElthamParkNorth.htm |date=29 December 2008 }} Eltham Park North</ref> and Eltham Park South<ref>[http://www.greenwich.gov.uk/Greenwich/YourEnvironment/GreenSpace/ParksGardens/Eltham/ElthamParkSouth.htm Greenwich Council – Eltham Park South] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20081228042036/http://www.greenwich.gov.uk/Greenwich/YourEnvironment/GreenSpace/ParksGardens/Eltham/ElthamParkSouth.htm |date=28 December 2008 }} Eltham Park South</ref> are the final major green areas in Eltham. The southern park is adjacent to the Eltham Warren Golf Course.
*''[[The Tarn]]'', {{cvt|1|km|mi}} south of Eltham High Street, a {{cvt|9|acre|ha}} public garden, and bird sanctuary, with a lake amongst woodland.<ref name=azbook>{{cite book |date=2003 |title=''Nicholson Greater London Street Atlas Comprehensive Edition''|location=77-85 Fulham Palace Road, Hammersmith, London W6 8JB |publisher=Harper Collins Publishers |page=185 |isbn=0-583-33291-9}}</ref><ref name=osmap1957>{{cite map |author =Printed and published by the Director General of the Ordnance Survey, Chessington Surrey |title =Ordnance Survey Plan TQ4273 Surveyed: 1952 to 1956, Published: 1957|trans-title = |map =TQ4273 |map-url =https://maps.nls.uk/view/103033785 |year = 1957|scale = 1:2500, 25.344 inches to 1 mile|page = TQ4273|section = |sections = |inset = |edition =1957 |location =Ordnance Survey, Chessington Surrey |access-date =2022-02-01 }}</ref><ref name=tarnrbg>{{cite web |url=https://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/directory_record/3794/the_tarn |title=Parks, gardens and open spaces, The Tarn |author=<!--Not stated--> |date=2022-01-30 |website=royalgreenwich.gov.uk |publisher=[[Royal Borough of Greenwich]] |access-date=2022-01-30 }}</ref>
*''[[Horn Park (park)|Horn Park]]''', {{cvt|1.8|km|mi}} southwest of Eltham High Street, a {{cvt|16|acre|ha}} public park in Horn Park, with grassland, woodland, playground, football pitch and skate park.<ref name=rbghp>{{cite web |url=https://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/directory_record/3773/horn_park |title=Parks, gardens and open spaces, Horn Park |author=<!--Not stated--> |date=2022-02-09 |website=royalgreenwich.gov.uk |publisher=[[Greenwich London Borough Council]]|access-date=2022-02-09 }}</ref><ref name=azbook/>
Eltham Parks North and South, Avery Hill, Sutcliffe Park, The Tarn, Well Hall Pleasaunce and Horn Park all have [[Green Flag Award|Green Flag status]].<ref>See: https://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/info/200073/parks_and_open_spaces/1039/green_flag_awards</ref>

In the 1990s the defence of [[Oxleas Wood]] to the north east of the town became a focus for a pan-European campaign to resist high capacity urban roads. Significantly the [[European Court of Justice]] found the UK government at fault for not adequately assessing the environmental impact of the planned road, that would have joined [[Beckton]] to Falconwood and perhaps – if objectors' fears are to be believed – been a first stage of a wider [[orbital road]] through [[Catford]] (a revival of a [[Greater London Council]]-backed Ringway Two).

'''Green places in Eltham'''

<gallery mode="packed">
File:Eltham parks 1.jpg|King John's Walk (Green Chain Walk)
File:Eltham parks 2.jpg|Butterfly Lane
File:Eltham parks 3.jpg|Avery Hill Park (Green Chain Walk) and the Winter Gardens
File:Eltham parks 4.jpg|Oxleas meadows (Green Chain Walk)
File:Eltham parks 5.jpg|Well Hall Pleasaunce - Woodland Garden
File:Eltham parks 6.jpg|Well Hall Pleasaunce - Tudor Barn
</gallery>

The Royal Borough of Greenwich maintains an online directory of open spaces.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/directory/14/directory_parks_gardens_and_open_spaces|title=Directory: Parks, gardens and open spaces|first=Denis|last=Ong}}</ref> Most parks have active Friends groups

==Demographics==

In December 2010, the population of [[Eltham (UK Parliament constituency)|Eltham parliament constituency]] was 63,059,<ref>{{cite web
 |url=http://www.boundarycommissionforengland.org.uk/electoral-figures/electoral-figures.htm
 |title=Electorate Figures - Boundary Commission for England 
 |date=4 March 2011 
 |work=2011 Electorate Figures 
 |publisher=Boundary Commission for England 
 |access-date=13 March 2011 
 |url-status=usurped
 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20101106204053/http://www.boundarycommissionforengland.org.uk/electoral-figures/electoral-figures.htm 
 |archive-date=6 November 2010 
}}</ref> although this figure includes the wards of Coldharbour and New Eltham, Kidbrooke with Hornfair and Shooter's Hill. 63,082 people live in the [[postcode|SE9]] postcode district; of these, 30,398 are male and 32,684 are female.<ref>[http://www.postcodearea.co.uk/postaltowns/london/se9/ SE9 (London) Postcode Region]. Accessed: 20 July 2015</ref> People over 65 make up 17.9% of Eltham's electorate.<ref>[http://ukpollingreport.co.uk/2015guide/eltham/ UK Polling Report 2015] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180312120622/http://ukpollingreport.co.uk/2015guide/eltham/ |date=12 March 2018 }}. Accessed: 20 July 2015</ref>

===Migration and ethnicity===

At the census of 2011, the white population of Eltham was recorded at 80.95%; the largest minority group in Eltham was Black-African and Black-[[Caribbean]] people, who comprised 7.46% of the total population with Asians comprising 6.62%. Eltham's proportion of white residents is significantly higher than the [[Royal Borough of Greenwich]] average of 62.5%. Eltham's population by ward in 2011 was as follows:
{|
|valign="top"|
'''Eltham West'''<ref>[https://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/downloads/file/65/eltham_west_ward_profile Royal Borough of Greenwich Ward Profiles: 2011 Census Data: Eltham West] Accessed: 20 July 2015.</ref>
* Total Population: 10,399
** Total White: 7,845 (75.4%)
** Total Mixed: 355 (3.4%)
** Total Asian: 792 (7.6%)
** Total Black: 1,193 (11.5%)
** Total other: 214 (2.1%)
|valign=top|
'''Eltham North'''<ref>[https://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/downloads/file/63/eltham_north_ward_profile Royal Borough of Greenwich Ward Profiles: 2011 Census Data: Eltham North] Accessed: 20 July 2015.</ref>
* Total Population: 12,519
** Total White: 11,104 (88.7%)
** Total Mixed: 341 (2.7%)
** Total Asian: 614 (4.9%)
** Total Black: 368 (2.9%)
** Total other: 92 (0.7%)
|valign="top"|
'''Eltham South'''<ref>[https://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/downloads/file/64/eltham_south_ward_profile Royal Borough of Greenwich Ward Profiles: 2011 Census Data: Eltham South] Accessed: 20 July 2015.</ref>
* Total Population: 12,541
** Total White: 10,430 (83.2%)
** Total Mixed: 395 (3.1%)
** Total Asian: 894 (7.1%)
** Total Black: 665 (5.3%)
** Total other: 157 (1.3%)
|valign="top"|
'''Middle Park & Sutcliffe'''<ref>[https://www.royalgreenwich.gov.uk/downloads/file/70/middle_park_and_sutcliffe_ward_profile Royal Borough of Greenwich Ward Profiles: 2011 Census Data: Middle Park & Sutcliffe] Accessed: 20 July 2015.</ref>
* Total Population: 13,505
** Total White: 10,260 (76.0%)
** Total Mixed: 567 (4.2%)
** Total Asian: 943 (7.0%)
** Total Black: 1,425 (10.6%)
** Total other: 310 (2.3%)
|}

==Culture, identity and community==

Eltham has an unusually high quotient of green space, with large areas of woodland to the north and east, including the historic woodland of [[Shooters Hill]] and Oxleas Wood, the Woodlands Farm community holding, Eltham Parks north and south and extensive parkland heading into Avery Hill park. Thus it is both 'suburban' and 'urban', and it forms part of the [[Royal Borough of Greenwich]], an [[Inner London]] borough.
<!-- Deleted image removed: [[File:Eltham senine.jpg|right|thumbnail|Cover of SEnine magazine March 2013 showing the refurbished Eltham town sign provided by the Eltham Society]] -->

The town centre supports a loyal core of shoppers, diners, and drinkers, but the nightlife is modest. In recent years there has been great effort by local town centre businesses and other important Eltham stakeholders, to drive business, community and tourism improvements, that will help sustain the town centre. These efforts resulted in the formation of an Eltham town centre partnership (ETCP), chaired by an elected local stakeholder. Greenwich council had a member and officer representatives along with the University of Greenwich. The ETCP encouraged the development of A new town centre commerce Association – The Association of Commerce for Eltham (ACE). ACE established a new Town Centre web portal,<ref>ACE web site:  www.elthamse9.uk</ref> which offered a basic business directory and tried to increase interaction between business and community groups. Both were offline as of June 2023.

In 2007, the new Eltham Centre opened just off the High Street including council offices and a new swimming pool and incorporating the early 20th century library.

The Eltham Society was founded in 1965 with the aim of "Preserving the past, Conserving the present, and Protecting the future". In 1993 it erected the Eltham Town sign in the high street. The Society is responsible for various publications.<ref>Website: {{cite web |url=http://www.theelthamsociety.org.uk/index.php |title=The Eltham Society - the local amenity society for Eltham, England, London SE9 |access-date=2014-09-29 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20130818133208/http://theelthamsociety.org.uk/index.php |archive-date=18 August 2013 }}</ref>

In 2006 the community magazine "SEnine" was launched.<ref>Website:{{cite web |url=http://www.senine.co.uk/seninegeneralinformation.php |title=SEnine Magazine &#124; SE Nine senine SENINE SE9 Eltham Community Voice news |access-date=2014-09-22 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140701105806/http://senine.co.uk/seninegeneralinformation.php |archive-date=1 July 2014 }}</ref> As of 2023 it is published monthly and distributed free. As well as news and discussion of current affairs it also lists forthcoming events. It also carries many illustrated articles about Eltham history. Digitised copies of old issues are available on the SEnine website. A community website "This is Eltham" provides updates on current events.<ref>Website:  http://www.thisiseltham.co.uk/</ref>

'''High Street and environs'''

<gallery mode="packed">
File:Eltham highstreet 1.jpg|Eltham bus and train stations built 1986
File:Southern Side of the Church of St John the Baptist, Eltham (I).jpg|St. Johns, a Church of England congregation
File:Cliefden House, Eltham.jpg|The 18th-century Cliefden House, a Grade II* listed building
File:Eltham highstreet 3.jpg|[[The Bob Hope Theatre]]
File:Buildings along the Northern Side of Eltham High Street.jpg|Buildings along the High Street, Eltham
File:Playhouse, Eltham (North Face - 01).jpg|18th-century structure on the High Street, a Grade II listed building
File:Eltham highstreet 5.jpg|Sunday market and the Eltham town sign
File:Eltham highstreet 7.jpg|Eltham CofE School. founded 1814
Convent of Saint Mary, Eltham (North Face - 02).jpg|St. Mary's Community Centre, a Grade II listed building
File:Eltham Library (I).jpg|Eltham Library
File:Christ Church Catholic Church and Adjacent Presbytery, Eltham.jpg|Christ Church (RC) and Priory, a Grade II listed building
File:The Western Face of the Church of Holy Trinity, Eltham.jpg|The Church of Holy Trinity, a Grade II listed building
</gallery>

On 22 April 1993, 18-year-old black student [[Stephen Lawrence]] was fatally stabbed in [[Well Hall]]. The crime quickly became one of the most high-profile racially motivated murders in modern Britain. Five teenagers were later accused of his murder but the case was dropped due to a lack of evidence.<ref>Paul Peachey (2002) Racist violence returns to streets where Stephen Lawrence was knifed to death, ''The Independent'', 24 August 2002</ref> In 2011 as a result of new evidence coming to light, Gary Dobson and David Norris stood trial for the murder of Stephen Lawrence. They were convicted on 3 January 2012.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-16348304|title=Stephen Lawrence murder: Dobson and Norris found guilty|author=Dominic Casciani|publisher=BBC|date=3 January 2012}}</ref>

Other instances of racial attacks were documented throughout the 1980s and 1990s, with Eltham compared to a "[[sundown town]]" a name used to describe communities in America's Deep South where black people were advised for their own safety to not be out in public after dark. Eltham was, for example, compared to [[Jasper, Texas]].<ref name="Marshall-27Feb1999">{{cite news |last1=Marshall |first1=Andrew |title=Two black men are killed for their colour. But in US justice was done |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/two-black-men-are-killed-for-their-colour-but-in-us-justice-was-done-1073407.html |access-date=20 July 2019 |work=The Independent |date=27 February 1999}}</ref>

During the [[2011 England riots]], Eltham received national attention when, for three nights, a [[vigilante group]] of 300–400 people occupied the centre of Eltham, saying they were protecting people and property from rioters.<ref name="Beaumont-10Aug2011">{{cite news |last1=Beaumont |first1=Peter |last2=Coleman |first2=Jasmine |last3=Laville |first3=Sandra |title=London riots: 'People are fighting back. It's their neighbourhoods at stake' |url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2011/aug/09/london-riots-fighting-neighbourhoods |access-date=30 January 2020 |work=The Guardian |date=10 August 2011}}</ref> Extra police from other UK forces were sent to maintain order. The group gathered after rumours that Eltham would be the latest place to be hit by unrest. A small number claimed to be [[English Defence League|EDL]] members.<ref name="Addley-10Aug2011">{{cite news |last1=Addley |first1=Esther |last2=Taylor |first2=Matthew |last3=Domokos |first3=John |last4=Lewis |first4=Paul |title=UK riots: 'Those who seek to racialise this problem are taking us backwards' |url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/2011/aug/10/uk-riots-racial-dimension |access-date=30 January 2020 |work=The Guardian |date=10 August 2011}}</ref> BBC reporters tracked fans of [[Millwall F.C.|Millwall]] and [[Charlton Athletic|Charlton]] walking along Eltham High St, with riot police following at a distance.<ref name="Smithies-11Aug2011">{{cite news |last1=Smithies |first1=Tom |title=Fearsome fans take on rioters |url=https://www.dailytelegraph.com.au/z-redesign/archive-sport/fearsome-fans-take-on-rioters/news-story/c65c2ed4f6afc05d5c362ebb08429edf?sv=3e3a03cf8371af27ba3bdf2fcc07433f |access-date=30 January 2020 |work=The Daily Telegraph|location=London |date=11 August 2011}}</ref> Police were forced to move the crowds on for fear of violence, and were involved in minor clashes, but Eltham did not have any riot damage.<ref name="Guardian-10Aug2011">{{cite news |title=UK riots coverage – Wednesday 10 August 2011 |url=https://www.theguardian.com/uk/blog/2011/aug/10/uk-riots-fifth-night-live |access-date=30 January 2020 |work=The Guardian |date=10 August 2011}}</ref><ref name="Manning-11Aug2011">{{cite news |last1=Manning |first1=Sanchez |title=Vigilantes raise tensions on street |url=https://www.independent.co.uk/news/uk/crime/vigilantes-raise-tensions-on-street-2335681.html |access-date=30 January 2020 |work=The Independent |date=11 August 2011}}</ref>

==Education==
{{Further|Royal Borough of Greenwich#Education}}

Primary schools in Eltham include: Alderwood, Christ Church (Shooters Hill Rd), Deansfield, Gordon, Middle Park, Ealdham, Eltham C of E (Founded 1814),<ref>Web site:  {{cite web |url=http://www.elthamcoeschool.co.uk/home.aspx |title=Welcome to Eltham Church of England Primary School |access-date=2014-10-04 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141006134722/http://www.elthamcoeschool.co.uk/home.aspx |archive-date=6 October 2014 }}</ref> Gordon, Haimo, Henwick, Kidbrooke Park, St Mary's, St Thomas More and Wingfield.

Secondary schools in Eltham include [[Harris Academy Greenwich]], [[St Thomas More Catholic School, Eltham|St Thomas More Catholic School]], [[Eltham Hill School]] for Girls, and [[Stationers' Crown Woods Academy]]<ref>Web site:http://www.crownwoods.org.uk/ {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20141218154954/http://crownwoods.org.uk/ |date=18 December 2014 }}</ref> (built upon the land of King Henry VIII's hunting grounds, and until 2011 named Crown Woods School).

One campus of the [[University of Greenwich]] was in [[Avery Hill]] Park, on the borders of Eltham and [[New Eltham]], but has closed.

==Sport and leisure==
In 1654, three men were prosecuted at Eltham for playing [[cricket]] on a Sunday, one of the sport's earliest references.<ref>Bowen, p. 262.</ref>

Eltham Cricket Club, founded in 1863 and the last club for whom WG Grace played, are based at Footscray Rugby Club.

Eltham has a [[Non-League football]] club [[Cray Valley Paper Mills F.C.]], which plays at Badgers Sports Ground (shared with [[Greenwich Borough F.C.]]) in Middle Park. Cray Valley plays an annual charity match against their local non-league rivals Eltham Old Boys Football Club.

Eltham's parks provide many facilities for sports and fitness. Eltham Park South has a jogging track and six tennis courts. The Pleasaunce has a bowling green and pavilion. Avery Hill Park has changing rooms and half a dozen football and rugby pitches and with cricket pitches laid out in the summer. 
The land adjoining Avery Hill is occupied by many sports grounds which include Footscray RUFC, London Electricity Sorts and Social Club, Charlton Park RFC, Sparrows Lane Sports Ground, Cambridge Mission Sports Ground, Unilever Sports Ground, Metrogas Amateur Sports Association, St James Mar Thoma Amateur Sports Ground and the SRC2 Sports Club. The same area is also home to the training ground of professional football club [[Charlton Athletic]] at Sparrows Lane.

Adjacent to Well Hall Pleasaunce is University of Greenwich Athletics Ground. This has a pavilion with changing rooms and six pitches for football and rugby

Preserving these sports areas from the encroachments of property developers is a constant battle for Elthams environmental and community groups. Currently (2014) the focus is on the long disused Gaelic Sports Field in Avery Hill Road, for which there is a planning application to build 150 houses.<ref>SEnine magazine, October 2014, Page 14, "Gaelic Athletic Association - a Disgrace"</ref>

==Transport==
===Rail===
Eltham, along with most other suburbs in south east London, is not served by the [[London Underground]]. Commuters rely on two rail lines to central London, and the road network. Trains through Eltham terminate at [[Charing Cross railway station|London Charing Cross]], [[Cannon Street railway station|London Cannon Street]] or [[London Victoria railway station|London Victoria]] in a westerly direction, and [[Crayford railway station|Crayford]], [[Dartford railway station|Dartford]], [[Slade Green railway station|Slade Green]], [[Gravesend railway station|Gravesend]], [[Gillingham railway station (Kent)|Gillingham]] or [[Rochester railway station|Rochester]] in an easterly direction. Given the lack of London Underground access, the two suburban rail lines work at, or above, their capacity during peak-hour commuting to central London. Fast trains take as little as 20 minutes to get to London Charing Cross. Eltham's closest London Underground station is [[North Greenwich tube station]], a few miles to the northwest.

'''Bexleyheath line'''

Originally opened on 1 May 1895 by a private company, the Bexleyheath Line was taken over by the [[South Eastern Railway (England)|South Eastern Railway]] after it suffered bankruptcy. There were originally two stations in Eltham: Eltham Well Hall and Eltham Park. Eltham Well Hall station opened in 1895. Eltham Park station opened (after a prolonged legal wrangle) on 1 July 1908.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.subbrit.org.uk/sb-sites/stations/e/eltham_park/index.shtml|title=Disused Stations: Eltham Park Station}}</ref> On 11 June 1972, a [[Eltham Well Hall rail crash|London-bound train came off the track]] at Well Hall, killing 6 and injuring 126. Both Eltham stations were closed in 1985 and replaced by a new ‘[[Eltham railway station|Eltham]]’ station; this coincided with the construction of the Rochester Way Relief Road part of which was built on the site of Eltham Well Hall station. Glenlea Road between Well Hall Road and Archery Road was replaced by the station forecourt and a bus station (this had previously been adjacent to Well Hall station). The new rail station was built above the new road at the point it travels through what is sometimes referred to as 'the Eltham tunnel'. The new station has a modernist feel.<ref>http://www.yellins.co.uk/transporthistory/rail/bex.html picture</ref>

'''Dartford Loop'''

The Dartford Loop line, about {{convert|1|km|mi|1}} south of Eltham High Street, was opened by the [[South Eastern Railway (England)|South Eastern Railway]] on 1 September 1866. It is commonly known by locals as the '[[Dartford]] line via [[Sidcup]]'. There are two stations on this line that serve the population living to the south of Eltham: [[Mottingham railway station|Mottingham station]], originally named 'Eltham Station' until 'Eltham Well Hall' opened, and [[New Eltham railway station|New Eltham station]]. Neither station is as large as Eltham station, but both have been heavily upgraded since opening.

===Roads===
Eltham High Street lies on the A210, the original [[A20 road (England)|A20]] London to [[Maidstone]] road. But the A20 has now been diverted southwards, passing through Mottingham, and it is a [[dual carriageway]] that connects to the [[M20 motorway]] in Kent. Similarly, to the north, the dual carriageway A2 has replaced the Rochester Road section, which was always very congested (the old road had dangerous readings of lead pollution, close to schools, before the advent of lead-free petrol).

The upgrading of these two arterial routes in and out of London means that Eltham is handily positioned between the A20 and A2. Driving on either of these roads into London soon results in congestion, although the A2 does connect through to the [[Blackwall Tunnel]] under the [[Thames]], and thus into east London, all on dual carriageway. Driving eastwards allows access to the [[Dartford Tunnel]], and the [[Kent]] countryside, in as little as 20 minutes in off-peak hours.

Crossing the two from north to the south is the [[A205 road|A205 South Circular road]], a busy arterial route.

The back streets of Eltham have been largely traffic-calmed by the local Council, but there are chronic rat-runs<ref>The Guardian, Saturday 22 November 2008, Let's Move to Eltham</ref> as many of the measures are ineffective or insufficient. Provision for cyclists is modest, while there are some interesting footpaths along ancient rights of way, for example in Oxleas Wood and Avery Hill Park.

===Buses===
Scheduled coaches, marketed as part of the [[National Express Coaches|National Express]] network, link Eltham Green to [[Pimlico]] and [[Victoria Coach Station|Victoria]] in central London and to several destinations on the Kent coast via [[Bluewater (shopping centre)|Bluewater]] (a retail-based development on a grand scale in Dartford borough) and [[Canterbury]]. Eltham Green is one of the few places in south London served by National Express coaches.

Eltham is served by [[Transport for London]] bus routes 122, 124, 126, 132, 160, 161, 162, 233, 286, 314, 321, B15 and B16.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://content.tfl.gov.uk/bus-route-maps/eltham-high-street-a4.pdf |title=Buses from Eltham High Street |work=Transport for London |date=23 November 2017 |access-date=5 July 2019}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=https://content.tfl.gov.uk/bus-route-maps/eltham-station-eltham-church-a4.pdf |title=Buses from Eltham Station (Eltham Church) |work=Transport for London |date=23 November 2017 |access-date=5 July 2019}}</ref> These routes connect Eltham to [[Beckenham]], [[Bexleyheath|Bexley, Bexleyheath]], Blackfen, [[Bromley]], [[Catford]], Charlton, [[Chinbrook]], [[Chislehurst]], [[Crystal Palace, London|Crystal Palace]], [[Foots Cray]], [[Greenwich]], [[Grove Park, Lewisham|Grove Park]], [[Horn Park]], [[Kidbrooke]], [[Lee, London|Lee]], [[Lewisham]], [[Middle Park, London|Middle Park]], [[New Addington]], [[New Cross]], [[Greenwich Peninsula|North Greenwich]], [[Plumstead]], [[Ruxley]], [[Sidcup]], [[Swanley]], Well Hall, Welling and Woolwich.

==Notable residents==
[[File:Church of St Barnabas, Eltham (I).jpg|thumb|right|The Church of Saint Barnabas in Eltham; built in the 19th century, it was moved to its current location in the 1930s]]
{{more citations needed|section|date=April 2018}}
*[[John Arnold (watchmaker)|John Arnold]] – Internationally renowned [[watchmaker]]; lived in ''Well Hall House''
*[[John Ayldon]] – An operatic [[bass-baritone]] and former member of the [[D'Oyly Carte Opera Company]]
*[[Hubert Bland]] – Socialist and co-founder of the [[Fabian Society]]; lived in ''Well Hall House'' from 1899 to 1922
*[[Billy Bonds]], [[Order of the British Empire|MBE]] – Former [[Charlton Athletic F.C.|Charlton Athletic]] and [[West Ham United F.C.|West Ham United]] footballer and former [[Millwall F.C.]] manager
*[[Bridget of York]] – Princess, seventh daughter of [[Edward IV]]
*[[Kate Bush]] – Singer and musician
*[[Conflict (band)|Conflict]] – Anarcho-punk band, some of whose members originated in Eltham
*[[Stephen Courtauld]] – Millionaire, war veteran and philanthropist; lived at [[Eltham Palace]] from the mid-1930s to 1944
*[[Robert Devereux, 3rd Earl of Essex]] – Commander of the Parliamentary Army; last resident of Eltham Palace, where he died
*[[Bernardine Evaristo]] – Novelist, critic, poet, playwright and academic
*[[Boy George]] – Singer, raised in Middle Park, Eltham
*[[W. G. Grace]] – Cricketer
*[[Denis Winston Healey|Lord Healey (Denis Healey, Baron Healey)]] – Politician and [[Deputy Leader of the Labour Party (UK)|Deputy Leader of the Labour Party]], once lived in the Eltham "Hutments"
*[[Bob Hope]], [[Order of the British Empire|KBE]] – Actor and Hollywood film star, born in Eltham in 1903 ([[blue plaque]] at 44, Craigton Road). In 1982, the ''Eltham Little Theatre'' was renamed ''[[The Bob Hope Theatre]]'' in his honour, following his donations that saved the theatre from closure.
*[[Jack Hope]] – Film and television producer; elder brother of Bob Hope
*[[Frankie Howerd]] – Comedian and comic actor, born in [[York]], but moved to Eltham as a young child
*[[Peter Howitt (actor)|Peter Howitt]] – Actor and film director
*[[William James (naval commander)|Commodore Sir William James]] – Naval commander; settled in Eltham at Park Farm Place in 1759 and is commemorated by [[Severndroog Castle]] on nearby Shooter's Hill
*[[James Jameson (surgeon)|James Jameson]] – British Army Surgeon-General; lived in Eltham and died at his home, ''Newlands'', in September 1904
*[[Richard Jefferies]] – [[Natural history|Naturalist]] and writer; [[blue plaque]] at 59, Footscray Road
*[[John of Eltham, Earl of Cornwall]] – Prince of England
*[[Ruth Williams Khama]] – first lady of Botswana
*[[Delroy Lindo]] – Actor
*[[E. V. Lucas]] – Writer
*[[J. M. A. Mills]] (1894–1986), English theosophist writer 
*[[Sir Dermot Milman, 8th Baronet]] – Rugby union player and first-class cricketer
*[[Herbert Stanley Morrison|Herbert Morrison]] – Labour Cabinet minister and leader of [[London County Council]]; lived at 55, Archery Road (1929–1960)
*[[Edith Nesbit]] – Author, writer of ''[[The Railway Children]]'' and wife of [[Hubert Bland]]; lived in ''Well Hall House''
*[[Ellis O'Reilly]] – Former Irish international gymnast and Olympian
*[[Katharine O'Shea]] – Mistress and later wife of [[Charles Stewart Parnell]]
*[[John Partridge (performer)|John Partridge]] – ''[[EastEnders]]'' actor
*[[Gavin Peacock]] – Former [[Charlton Athletic F.C.|Charlton Athletic]], [[Chelsea F.C.|Chelsea]], and [[Queens Park Rangers F.C.|Queens Park Rangers]] footballer; former football pundit for the BBC
*[[Philippa Plantagenet, 5th Countess of Ulster]]
*[[Louise Redknapp]] – Singer
*[[Steve Peregrin Took]] – Musician
*[[Dudley Stamp]], [[Order of the British Empire|CBE]] – Geologist and geographer
*[[Alan White (Oasis drummer)|Alan White]] – Former drummer of British rock band [[Oasis (band)|Oasis]]

== See also ==
*[[Eltham railway station]]

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==Bibliography==
* {{cite book |last=Bowen |first=Rowland |author-link=Rowland Bowen |title=Cricket: A History of its Growth and Development |year=1970 |publisher=Eyre & Spottiswoode }}
* Kennet, John. Eltham - a Pictorial History. (1995). Philimore and Co {{ISBN|1-86077-004-5}}.
* Lysons, Daniel. (1796) The Environs of London. Vol 4. Pages 394–421."Eltham"  http://www.british-history.ac.uk/report.aspx?compid=45484

==External links==
{{commons category}}
* [http://www.greenwich.gov.uk Greenwich Council]
* Eltham Palace (English Heritage) https://www.elthampalace.org.uk/
* The Eltham Society https://web.archive.org/web/20130818133208/http://theelthamsociety.org.uk/index.php

{{LB Greenwich}}
{{London Districts}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Eltham| ]]
[[Category:Areas of London]]
[[Category:Districts of the Royal Borough of Greenwich]]
[[Category:Major centres of London]]
[[Category:Former civil parishes in the London Borough of Bromley]]
[[Category:Former civil parishes in the Royal Borough of Greenwich]]
[[Category:Cricket in Kent]]
[[Category:English cricket in the 14th to 17th centuries]]