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{{Short description|Southeast Asian dyeing technique}}
{{For|the mountains in Siberia|Ikat Range}}
{{EngvarB|date=September 2015}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=March 2022}}
{{Italic title|reason=[[:Category:Indonesian and Malay words and phrases]]}}
{{Infobox clothing type
| name         = ''Ikat''
| image_file   = Indonesian funeral shroud or hanging, (porilonjong), Central Sulawesi (Celebes), Rongkong, Toraja, cotton with ikat paterns.jpg
| caption      = A typical [[Torajan people|Torajan]] ''ikat'' funeral shroud (''porilonjong''), [[Sulawesi]], [[Indonesia]]
| material     = [[cotton]], [[silk]], [[silk cotton]]
| location     = [[Southeast Asia]]<br />([[Austronesians|Austronesian]] and [[Daic]]-speaking peoples)
}}

'''''Ikat''''' (literally "to bind" in [[Malayo-Polynesian languages]]) is a dyeing technique from [[Southeast Asia]] used to pattern textiles that employs [[resist dyeing]] on the yarns prior to dyeing and weaving the fabric. In [[Southeast Asia]], where it is the most widespread, ''ikat'' weaving traditions can be divided into two general groups of related traditions. The first is found among [[Daic]]-speaking peoples ([[Laos]], northern [[Vietnam]], and [[Hainan]]). The second, larger group is found among the [[Austronesian peoples]] ([[Indonesia]], [[Philippines]], [[Malaysia]], [[Brunei]], and [[Timor-Leste]]) and spread via the [[Austronesian expansion]] to as far as [[Madagascar]]. It is most prominently associated with the textile traditions of Indonesia in modern times, from where the term ''ikat'' originates.<ref name="Buckley"/> Similar unrelated dyeing and weaving techniques that developed independently are also present in other regions of the world, including [[India]], [[Central Asia]], [[Ryukyu Islands]] (where it is called Iichiiri or Tucciri), [[Japan]] (where it is called ''[[kasuri]]''), Africa, and the [[Americas]]. 

In ''ikat'', the resist is formed by binding individual yarns or bundles of yarns with a tight wrapping applied in the desired pattern. The yarns are then dyed. The bindings may then be altered to create a new pattern and the yarns dyed again with another colour. This process may be repeated multiple times to produce elaborate, multicolored patterns. When the dyeing is finished all the bindings are removed and the yarns are woven into cloth. In other resist-dyeing techniques such as [[tie-dye]] and ''[[batik]]'' the resist is applied to the woven cloth, whereas in ''ikat'' the resist is applied to the yarns before they are woven into cloth. Because the surface design is created in the yarns rather than on the finished cloth, in ''ikat'' both fabric faces are patterned. ''Ikat'' can be classified into three general types: warp ''ikat'' or weft ''ikat'', in which either the [[warp or weft]] yarns are dyed, respectively; and double ''ikat'', where both the warp and weft yarns are dyed.

A characteristic of ''ikat'' textiles is an apparent "blurriness" to the design. The blurriness is a result of the extreme difficulty the weaver has lining up the dyed yarns so that the pattern comes out perfectly in the finished cloth. The blurriness can be reduced by using finer yarns or by the skill of the craftsperson. ''Ikat'' with little blurriness, multiple colours and complicated patterns are more difficult to create and therefore often more expensive. However, the blurriness that is so characteristic of ''ikat'' is often prized by textile collectors.

==Etymology==
''Ikat'' is a [[Malay_language | Malay]] word, which depending on context, can be the [[noun]]s: [[cord (sewing)|cord]], [[yarn|thread]], [[knot]], or bundle,<ref>Ghosh, G. K., Ghosh, S. (2000). [https://www.google.com.my/books/edition/Ikat_Textiles_of_India/xOrTw0gPSVYC?hl=en&gbpv=1&pg=PA2&printsec=frontcover Ikat Textiles of India.] India: A.P.H..</ref><ref>Marsden, W. (1812). [https://www.google.com.my/books/edition/A_Dictionary_of_the_Malayan_Language/a91GAAAAcAAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&dq=ikat&pg=PA28&printsec=frontcover A Dictionary of the Malayan Language]. United Kingdom: Cox and Baylis.</ref> also the finished ''ikat'' fabric, as well as the [[verb]]s "to tie" or "to bind"; the term ''ikatan'' is a noun for bond or tie.<ref>{{Cite web |title= ikatan {{!}} translate Indonesian to English: Cambridge Dictionary |website= dictionary.cambridge.org |url= https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/indonesian-english/ikatan |access-date=2020-08-04 |language= en }}</ref> It has a direct etymological relation to cognates in various [[Languages of Indonesia|Indonesian languages]] from 
[[Sumatra]], [[Borneo]], [[Java]], [[Bali]], [[Sulawesi]], [[Sumba]], [[Flores]], [[Timor]], and [[Maluku Islands|Maluku]]. Thus, the name of the finished ''ikat'' woven fabric originates from the ''tali'' (threads, ropes) being ''ikat'' (tied, bound, knotted) before they are being put in ''celupan'' (dyed by way of dipping), then ''berjalin'' (woven, intertwined) resulting in a ''berjalin ikat''- reduced to ''ikat''.

The introduction of the term ''ikat'' into European language is attributed to Rouffaer.<ref>{{cite book |author1= Umesh Charan Patnaik |author2= Aswini Kumar Mishra |year= 1997 |title= Handloom industry in action |publisher= M.D. Publications |page= 38 |isbn= 978-81-7533-037-5 }} <br />
{{harvnb|Ghosh|Ghosh|2000|p=}}</ref> ''Ikat'' is now a generic English loanword used to describe the process and the cloth itself regardless of where the fabric was produced or how it is patterned.

In [[Indonesian language|Indonesian]], the plural of ''ikat'' remains ''ikat''. While in English, a suffix plural 's' is commonly added, as in ''ikats''. However, these terms are interchangeable and both are correct.

==History==
{{see also|Resist dyeing}}
[[File:Banton Burial Cloth.JPG|thumb|The Banton Burial Cloth (c. 1200-1300 AD), the oldest existing example of warp ''ikat'' in [[Southeast Asia]] at the [[National Museum of the Philippines]]). The cloth was found in the sacred Ipot cave of [[Romblon]], [[Philippines]]. It is made from [[abacá]],<ref name="ocampo">{{cite news |last1= Ocampo |first1= Ambeth R. |title= History and design in Death Blankets |work= Inquirer |date= 19 October 2011 |url= https://opinion.inquirer.net/15599/history-and-design-in-death-blankets |access-date= 2 June 2023 }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Textiles / Weaving |url=https://www.nationalmuseum.gov.ph/our-collections/ethnology/textiles-and-weaving/ |website=National Museum of the Philippines |publisher=National Museum of the Philippines, Republic of the Philippines |access-date=6 June 2025}}</ref> a species of endemic banana.]]
Warp ''ikat'' traditions in Southeast Asia are believed to have originated in [[Neolithic]] weaving traditions (older than at least 6000 [[Before Present|BP]]) somewhere in mainland Asia, and is associated with the [[Austronesian peoples|Austronesian]] and [[Daic]]-speaking peoples. This is based on a 2012 comparative study on loom technologies, textile patterns, and linguistics. It was spread outwards along with the [[Austronesian expansion]] to [[maritime Southeast Asia]], reaching as far as [[Madagascar]] by the 1st millennium BC.<ref name="Buckley">{{cite journal |last1= Buckley |first1= Christopher D. |date= 18 December 2012 |title= Investigating Cultural Evolution Using Phylogenetic Analysis: The Origins and Descent of the Southeast Asian Tradition of Warp Ikat Weaving |journal= PLOS ONE |volume= 7 |issue= 12 |article-number= e52064 |doi= 10.1371/journal.pone.0052064 |pmid= 23272211 |pmc= 3525544 |bibcode= 2012PLoSO...752064B |doi-access= free }}</ref><ref name="taa">{{cite web |title= Ikat History |website= textileasart.com |url= http://www.textileasart.com/Ikat-1250.htm |access-date= 2 June 2023 }}</ref>

Previously, ''ikat'' traditions were suggested by some authors to be originally acquired by Austronesians from contact with the [[Dong Son culture]] of [[Vietnam]], but this was deemed unlikely in a 2012 study.<ref name="Buckley"/>

Elsewhere, particularly in [[India]] and [[Central Asia]], very similar traditions have also developed that are also known as "''ikat''". These likely developed independently.<ref name="Buckley"/><ref>{{cite web |author= Ruth Barnes |title= Ikat |website= fashion-history.lovetoknow.com |url= http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/ikat |url-status= live |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20161114231155/http://fashion-history.lovetoknow.com/fabrics-fibers/ikat |archive-date= 14 November 2016 }}</ref> [[Uyghurs]] call it ''atlas'' ([[International Phonetic Alphabet|IPA]] [ɛtlɛs]) and use it only for woman's clothing. The historical record indicates that there were 27 types of atlas during [[Qing dynasty|Qing Chinese]] occupation. Now there are only four types of Uyghur atlas remaining: ''qara-atlas'', a black ''ikat'' used for older women's clothing; ''[[khoja]]'e-atlas'', a yellow, blue, or purple ''ikat'' used for married women; ''qizil-atlas'', a red ''ikat'' used for girls; and ''[[Yarkant County|Yarkent]]-atlas'', a [[Khan (title)|khan]] or royal atlas. Yarkent-atlas has more diverse styles; during the [[Yarkent Khanate]] (1514–1705), there were ten different styles of Yarkent-atlas.<ref>{{cite book |author1= Abdukerim Raxman |author2= Reweydulla Hemdulla |author3= Sherip Xushtar |year= 1996 |title= Uyghur Örp-Adetliri |trans-title= Uyghur customs and traditions |location= [[Ürümqi]] |publisher=  Shinjang Yashlar Ösümler Neshriyati |pages= |oclc= |url= }}</ref>

==Types==
[[File:Gujarat patola.jpg|thumb|Detail of a classic Gujarati ''patola'' of double ''ikat'' from the early 19th century. [[LACMA]] textile collections.]]
[[File:USAID Measuring Impact Conservation Enterprise Retrospective (Philippines; Kalahan Educational Foundation) (40246611432).jpg|thumb|Warp ''ikat'' patterns of traditional ''[[t'nalak]]'' [[abacá]] cloth from the [[T'boli]] "dream weavers" of the [[Philippines]]]]
In '''warp ''ikat''''' it is only the warp yarns that are dyed using the ''ikat'' technique. The weft yarns are dyed a solid colour. The ''ikat'' pattern is clearly visible in the warp yarns wound onto the loom even before the weft is woven in. Warp ''ikat'' is, amongst others, produced in Indonesia; more specifically in [[Kalimantan]], [[Sulawesi]], and [[Sumatra]] by respectively the [[Dayak people|Dayaks]], [[Torajan]]s and [[Batak]]s.<ref>{{cite book |author1= Michael Möbius |author2= Annette Ster |year= 1998 |title= Bali, Java, Lombok selbst entdecken |trans-title= Discover Bali, Java, Lombik by yourself |type= |location= |publisher= Regenbogen-Verlag |pages=  |isbn= 3-85862-085-8 }}</ref>{{full citation needed|reason=year? publisher?|date=October 2023}}

In '''weft ''ikat''''' it is the weaving of weft yarn that carries the dyed patterns. Therefore, the pattern only appears as the weaving proceeds. Weft ''ikat''s are much slower to weave than warp ''ikat'' because the weft yarns must be carefully adjusted after each passing of the shuttle to maintain the clarity of the design.

'''Double ''ikat''''' is a technique in which both warp and the weft are resist-dyed prior to weaving. Obviously it is the most difficult to make and the most expensive. Double ''ikat'' is only produced in three countries: India, Japan and [[Indonesia]]. The double ''ikat'' made in [[Patan, Gujarat]] in India is the most complicated. Called "patola", it is made using fine [[silk]] yarns and many colours. It may be patterned with a small motif that is repeated many times across the length of a six-meter sari. Sometimes the Patan double ''ikat'' is pictorial with no repeats across its length. That is, each small design element in each colour was individually tied in the warp and weft yarns. It's an extraordinary achievement in the textile arts. These much sought after textiles were traded by the Dutch East Indies company for exclusive spice trading rights with the sultanates of Indonesia. The double ''ikat'' woven in the small [[Bali Aga]] village, [[Tenganan]] in east Bali<ref name="hauser117">{{cite book |last1= Hauser-Schaublin |first1= Brigitta |last2= Nabhollz-kartaschoff |first2= Marie-Louise |last3= Ramseyer |first3= Urs |year= 1991 |title= Balinese Textiles |location= London |publisher= British Museum Press |page= 117 |isbn= 0-7141-2505-9 |oclc= 246736925 }}</ref> in [[Indonesia]] reflects the influence of these prized textiles. Some of the Tenganan double ''ikat'' motifs are taken directly from the [[Patola sari|''patola'']] tradition. In India, double ''ikat'' is also woven in Puttapaka, [[Nalgonda district]], and is called ''[[Puttapaka Saree]].''<ref name="aponline">{{cite web |url= http://www.aponline.gov.in/quick%20links/hist-cult/arts_ikat.html |title= History and Culture-Arts and Crafts – ''Ikat'' |website= aponline.gov.in |publisher= Government of Andhra Pradesh |access-date= 30 August 2014 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140119164655/http://www.aponline.gov.in/Quick%20links/HIST-CULT/arts_ikat.html |archive-date= 19 January 2014 }}</ref> In Ryukyu Islands, double ''ikat'' is woven in the Okinawa islands where it is called ''tate-yoko gasuri''.<ref name="Tomito7">{{cite book |last1= Tomito |first1= Jun |last2= Kasuri |first2= Noriko |year= 1982 |title= Japanese Ikat Weaving: The Techniques of Kasuri |type= |location= |publisher= Routledge & Kegan Paul |page= 7 |isbn= 0-7100-9043-9 |oclc= |url= }}</ref>

==Distribution==
[[File:Jewish Children with their Teacher in Samarkand.jpg|right|thumb|A child wearing an ''ikat'' robe, Samarkand 19th century. Children often wore small versions of adult clothing.<ref>{{cite web |title= Dress Codes: Revealing the Jewish Wardrobe |website= imj.org.il |url= http://www.imj.org.il/exhibitions/2014/dresscodes/en/child.html |access-date= 2024-06-06 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20140703023916/http://www.imj.org.il/exhibitions/2014/dresscodes/en/child.html |archive-date= 3 July 2014 }}</ref>]]

''Ikat'' is a resist dyeing technique common to many world cultures. It is probably one of the oldest forms of textile decoration. However, it is most prevalent in Indonesia, [[India]] and [[Japan]]. In [[South America]], [[Central America|Central]] and [[North America]], ''ikat'' is still common in [[Argentina]], [[Bolivia]], [[Ecuador]], [[Guatemala]] and [[Mexico]], respectively.

In the 19th century, the [[Silk Road]] desert oases of [[Bukhara]], [[Samarkand]], [[Hotan]] and [[Kashgar]] (in what is now [[Uzbekistan]] and [[Xinjiang]] in [[Central Asia]]) were famous for their fine silk Uzbek/[[Uyghurs|Uyghur]] ''ikat''.

India, Japan, Indonesia and many other [[Southeast Asia]]n nations including [[Cambodia]], [[Myanmar]], [[Philippines]] and [[Thailand]] have weaving cultures with long histories of ''ikat'' resist dyeing.

Double ''ikat'' textiles are still found in India, Japan and Indonesia. In Indonesia, ''ikat'' textiles are produced throughout the islands from Sumatra in the west to Timor and New Guinea in the east and Kalimantan and Sulawesi in the north. ''Ikat'' is also found in Iran, where the Persian name is ''daraee''. ''Daraee'' means wealth, and this fabric is often included in a bride's dowry during wedding ceremonies; the people who bought these fabrics were rich.

==Production==
===Warp ''ikat''===
{{anchor|warp ikat}}
{{unreferenced section|date=May 2014}}

[[File:COLLECTIE TROPENMUSEUM Ikat techniek in Lewa Kambera Oost Soemba en vrouw met haarkam (hai kara jangga) TMnr 10014278.jpg|thumb|upright|Young woman from Kambera, Sumba, wearing an ''ikat'' garment and with the warp for a cloth tied and ready for dying. 1931]]
[[File:Mexican Ikat rebozo.png|left|thumb|A tricolor warp ''ikat'' weave from [[Tenancingo, State of Mexico|Tenancingo]], Mexico]]

''Ikat'' created by [[dye]]ing the warps (warp ''ikat'') is simpler to make than either weft ''ikat'' or double ''ikat''. First the yarns--[[cotton]], [[silk]], [[wool]] or other fibres—are wound onto a tying frame. Then they are separated into bundles. As the binding process is very labor-intensive an effort is made to reduce the work to a minimum by folding the thread bundles like in paper dolls and binding a basic ''ikat'' motif (BIM) that will be repeated like in paper dolls when the threads are unfolded for weaving after the dyeing is completed. The thread bundles may be folded around a vertical and/or horizontal axis. The bundles may be covered with wax, as in [[batik]]. (However, in making batik, the crafts person applies the resist to the finished cloth rather than to the yarns to be woven.) The warp yarns are then wrapped tightly with thread or some other dye-resistant material with the desired pattern so as to prevent unwanted dye penetration. The procedure is repeated, according to the number of colours required to complete the design. Multiple coloration is common, requiring multiple rounds of tying and dyeing. After the dyeing is finished the bindings are removed and the threads are wound onto the loom as the warp (longitudinal yarns). The threads are adjusted to precisely align the motifs and thin bamboo strips are lashed to the threads to prevent them from tangling or slipping out of alignment during weaving.

Some ''ikat'' traditions, such as Central Asia's, embrace a blurred aesthetic in the design. Other traditions favour a more precise and more difficult to achieve alignment of the ''ikat'' yarns. South American and Indonesian ''ikat'' are known for a high degree of warp alignment. Weavers carefully adjust the warp threads when they are placed on the loom so the patterns appear clearly. Thin strips of bamboo are then lashed to the warps to maintain the pattern alignment during weaving.

Patterns are visible in the warp threads even before the weft, a plain colored thread, is woven in. Some warp ''ikat'' traditions are designed with vertical-axis symmetry or have a "mirror-image" running along their long centre line. That is, whatever pattern or design is woven on the right is duplicated on the left in reverse order about a central warp thread group. Patterns can be created in the vertical, horizontal or diagonal.

===Weft ''ikat''===
{{anchor|weft ikat}}
{{unreferenced section|date=May 2014}}
Weft ''ikat'' (''[[Balinese textiles#Endek|endek]]'' in Bali) uses resist-dyeing for the [[warp and weft|weft]] yarns. The movement of the weft yarns in the weaving process means precisely delineated patterns are more difficult to achieve. The weft yarn must be adjusted after each passing of the shuttle to preserve the clarity of the patterns.

Nevertheless, highly skilled artisans can produce precise weft ''ikat''. Japanese weavers produce very accurate indigo and white weft ''ikat'' with small scale motifs in cotton. Weavers in [[Odisha]], India have replicated fine patterns in weft ''ikat''. In Thailand, weavers make silk sarongs depicting birds and complex geometrical designs in seven-colour weft ''ikat''.

In some precise weft ''ikat'' traditions (Gujarat, India), two artisans weave the cloth: one passes the shuttle and the other adjusts the way the yarn lies in the shed.

As the weft is a continuous strand, aberrations or variations in the weaving tension are cumulative. Some weft ''ikat'' traditions incorporate this affect into their aesthetic. Patterns become transformed by the weaving process into irregular and erratic designs. Guatemalan ''ikat'' is well-noted for its beautiful "blurs."

==Double ''ikat''==
{{anchor|double ikat}}
{{further|Patola sari|kasuri}}
[[File:Double ikat weaving from Sulu, Philippines, East-West Center.JPG|thumb|right|A double ''ikat'' weaving from [[Sulu]], Philippines, made of [[abacá]] (banana leaf stalk) fiber.|upright=1.2]] 

Double ''ikat'' is created by resist-dyeing both the warp and weft prior to weaving.<ref>{{cite book |last1= Guy |first1= John |year= 2009 |title= Woven cargoes: Indian Textiles in the East |type= 1st publication 1998 |location= London |publisher= Thames & Hudson |pages= 10, 24 |isbn= 978-0-500-01863-7 |oclc= 40595374 }}</ref> Some sources use the term double ''ikat'' only when the warp and weft patterning overlap to form common, identical motifs. If they do not, the result is referred to as compound ''ikat''.<ref>{{Cite book |last= Larsen |first= Jack Lenor |year= 1976 |title= The Dyer's Art ikat, batik, plangi |location= New York |publisher= Van Nostrand Reinhold |isbn= 0-442-24685-4 |page=129}}</ref>

This form of weaving requires the most skill for precise patterns to be woven and is considered the premiere form of ''ikat''. The amount of labour and skill required also make it the most expensive, and many poor quality cloths flood the tourist markets. Indian and Indonesian examples typify highly precise double ''ikat''. Especially prized are the double ''ikat''s woven in silk known in India as ''patola'' (singular: ''patolu''). These are from [[Khambat]], Gujarat. During the colonial era, Dutch merchants used ''[[Patola sari|patola]]'' as prestigious trade cloths during the peak of the spice trade.{{sfn|Hauser-Schaublin|Nabhollz-kartaschoff|Ramseyer|1991}}

In Indonesia, double ''ikat'' is only woven in the [[Bali Aga]] village of [[Tenganan]]. These cloths have high spiritual significance. In Tenganan they are still worn for specific ceremonies. Outside Tenganan, ''[[geringsing]]'' are treasured as they are purported to have magical powers.<ref name="hauser117"/>

The double ''ikat'' of Japan is woven in the Okinawa islands and is called ''tate-yoko [[kasuri|gasuri]]''.<ref name="Tomito7"/>

[[File:Description- Textile artists demonstrate double ikat weaving at the 2002 Smithsonian Folklife Festival featuring The Silk Road. (2548928970).jpg|thumb|left|Indian textile artists demonstrate double ''ikat'' ''[[Patola sari|patola]]'' weaving.]]
[[File:Sambalpuri sari DSC 0496.JPG|thumb|[[Odisha Ikat|Odisha]] double ''ikat'' [[Sambalpuri sari]], India]]

[[Pochampally Saree]], a variety from the small village of Andhra Pradesh in Nalgonda district, India, are silk saris woven in the double ''ikat''.<ref name="aponline"/>

The [[Puttapaka Saree]]<ref name="indiaheritage">{{cite web |title= Textiles |website= indiaheritage.org |url= http://www.indiaheritage.org/creative/craft/textiles.htm |access-date= 30 August 2014 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20130704143231/http://www.indiaheritage.org/creative/craft/textiles.htm |archive-date= 4 July 2013}}</ref> is made in Puttapaka village, Samsthan Narayanpuram mandal in Nalgonda district, India. It is known for its unique style of silk saris. The symmetric design is over 200 years old. The ''ikat'' is warp-based. The Puttapaka Saree is a double ''ikat''.

Before the weaving is done, a manual winding of yarn, called ''asu'', needs to be performed. This process takes up to five hours per sari and is usually done by the womenfolk, who suffer physical strain through constantly moving their hands back and forth over 9000 times for each sari. In 1999 a young weaver, C. Mallesham, developed a machine which automated ''asu'', thus developing a technological solution for a decades-old problem.<ref>{{cite web |title= Asu machine to aid weavers of tie and dye sarees |website=  |date= 29 January 2013 |url= https://www.business-standard.com/article/economy-policy/asu-machine-to-aid-weavers-of-tie-and-dye-sarees-108120201020_1.html |access-date= 2024-06-06 |archive-date= 11 October 2012 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20121011174029/http://www.business-standard.com/india/news/asu-machine-to-aid-weaverstiedye-sarees/341893/ }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Machine which automated asu |url=https://jrshandlooms.com/mallesham-chintakindis-laxmi-asu-machine-pricing-features/ |access-date=23 September 2025}}</ref>

===Ōshima===
Ōshima ''ikat'' ([[Amami Ōshima language|Amami]]:Ooshima tsïmugi) is a uniquely [[Ryukyuans]] ''ikat''. In [[Amami Ōshima]], the warp and weft threads are both used as warp to weave stiff fabric, upon which the thread for the ''ikat'' weaving is spot-dyed. Then the mats are unravelled and the dyed thread is woven into Ōshima cloth.{{citation needed|date=May 2014}}

The Ōshima process is duplicated in Java and Bali, and was reserved for ruling royalty, notably ''Klungkung'' and ''Ubud'': most especially the ''dodot'' cloth semi-[[cummerbund]] of Javanese court attire.{{citation needed|date=May 2014}}

==Other countries==
[[File:Ikat 2006.10.jpg|thumb|''Ikat'' ''abr'', silk and cotton, mid-19th century, [[Uzbekistan]]. [[Smithsonian]] collections.]]

===Cambodia===
The [[Cambodia]]n ''ikat'' is a weft ''ikat'' woven of silk on a multi-shaft loom with an uneven [[twill]] weave, which results in the weft threads showing more prominently on the front of the fabric than the back.<ref>{{cite book |last1= Gittinger |first1= Mattiebelle |last2= Lefforts |first2= H. Leedom |year= 1992 |title= Textiles and the Thai Experience in South-East Asia |type= |location= Washington, DC |publisher= Textile Museum |pages= 38–39 |isbn= 978-0-87405-031-8 }}</ref><ref>{{cite journal |last1= Green |first1= Gill |date= <!-- 1999 ? --> |title= The Cambodia Weaving Tradition: Little Known Weaving and Loom Artifacts |journal= Arts of Asia |volume= 27 |issue= 5 |pages= 86–87 }}</ref>

By the 19th century, Cambodian ''ikat'' was considered among the finest textiles of the world. When the King of Thailand came to the USA in 1856, he brought fine Cambodian ''ikat'' cloth as a gift for President [[Franklin Pierce]].{{sfn|Gittinger|Lefforts|1992|p=149. 167}} The most intricately patterned of the Cambodian fabrics are the ''sampot hol'' — skirts worn by the women — and the ''pidans'' — wall hangings used to decorate the pagoda or the home for special ceremonies.

Unfortunately, Cambodian culture suffered massive disruption and destruction during the mid-20th century Indochina wars but most especially during the [[Khmer Rouge]] regime. Most weavers were killed and the whole art of Cambodian ''ikat'' was in danger of disappearing. Kikuo Morimoto<ref>{{cite web |author-last= Taguchi |author-first= Emily |date= |title=Cambodia: The Silk Grandmothers |website= pbs.org |publisher= [[PBS|Public Broadcasting Service (PBS)]] |url= https://www.pbs.org/frontlineworld/rough/2007/06/cambodia_the_siint.html |access-date= 13 July 2023 }}</ref> is a prominent pioneer in re-introducing ''ikat'' to Cambodia. In 1995, he moved from Japan and located one or two elderly weavers and Khmer Rouge survivors who knew the art and have taught it to a new generation.

===Thailand===
In Thailand, the local weft ''ikat'' type of woven cloth is known as '''''matmi''''' (also spelled 'mudmee' or 'mudmi').<ref>[http://www.surin.go.th/web_eng/web_eng/silk.htm Silk at Ban Sawai] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110719102131/http://www.surin.go.th/web_eng/web_eng/silk.htm |date=19 July 2011 }}</ref> Traditional Mudmi cloth was woven for daily use among the nobility. Other uses included ceremonial costumes. Warp ''ikat'' in cotton is also produced by the Karen and Lawa tribal peoples in northern Thailand.

This type of cloth is the favourite silk item woven by [[Khmer people]] living in southern [[Isan]], mainly in [[Surin Province|Surin]], [[Sisaket Province|Sisaket]] and [[Buriram Province|Buriram]] provinces.<ref>{{cite web |author= Chusak Sukaranandana |title= หัตถกรรมวิจิตรของกลุ่มชาติพันธุ์ ไท-ลาว-เขมร ในประเทศไทย |trans-title= Woven cloth, an exquisite handicraft of Thai-Lao-Khmer ethnic groups in Thailand |language= th |website= icmr.cru.in.th |url= http://icmr.cru.in.th/journal/133255110254.pdf |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20110818070110/http://icmr.cru.in.th/journal/133255110254.pdf |archive-date=18 August 2011 }}</ref>

===Iran===
[[File:Yazd weaver side.jpg|thumb|right|''Ikat'' making in [[Yazd]], [[Iran]]]]
In Iran, ''ikat'', known by the name ''darayee'', has been woven in different areas. In [[Yazd]], there are some workshops that produce it. It is said that this kind of cloth historically used to be included in a bride's dowry. In popular culture, a quote states that people who bought this type of cloth were wealthy.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://donya-e-eqtesad.com/بخش-بیشتر-26/472405-دارایی-بافته-ای-از-ابریشم-رنگ |title= دارایی‌، بافته‌‌ای از ابریشم و رنگ|website=donya-e-eqtesad.com |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180208045845/http://donya-e-eqtesad.com/%D8%A8%D8%AE%D8%B4-%D8%A8%DB%8C%D8%B4%D8%AA%D8%B1-26/472405-%D8%AF%D8%A7%D8%B1%D8%A7%DB%8C%DB%8C-%D8%A8%D8%A7%D9%81%D8%AA%D9%87-%D8%A7%DB%8C-%D8%A7%D8%B2-%D8%A7%D8%A8%D8%B1%DB%8C%D8%B4%D9%85-%D8%B1%D9%86%DA%AF |archive-date=8 February 2018}}</ref>

===Latin America===
[[File:Rapacejos011.JPG|thumb|left|Artisan-made purses and shoes with ''ikat'' dyed fabric for sale in [[Malinalco]], [[State of Mexico|EdoMex]], Mexico. The ''rapacejos'' (fringes) seen on the bottom right purse are characteristic of rebozos and can be quite intricately woven.]]
[[File:Guatemala--indigenous woman, ikat clothing.jpg|thumb|A young woman in Guatemala in the Highlands, wearing ''ikat'' clothing]]

''Ikat'' patterns are common among the [[Andes]] peoples, and native people of [[Argentina]], [[Bolivia]], Brazil, [[Chile]], [[Colombia]], [[Ecuador]], [[Guatemala]], Mexico, [[Peru]], and [[Venezuela]]. The [[Mapuche]] shawl or poncho of the [[Huaso]] cowboys of Chile is perhaps the item best known in the West. Wool and ''[[Fique|cabuya]]'' fibre are the most commonly used.

The Mexican [[rebozo]]s can be made from silk, wool or cotton and are frequently ''ikat'' dyed. These shawls are seen as a part of the Mexican national identity and most women own at least one.

Latin American ''ikat'' (Jaspe, as it is known to [[Maya people|Maya]] weavers) textiles are commonly woven on a back-strap [[loom]]. Pre-dyed [[warp (weaving)|warp]] threads are a common item in traditional markets- saving the weaver much mess, expense, time and labour.<ref name=Waddington>{{cite web | author=Waddington, Laverne | url= https://backstrapweaving.wordpress.com/2010/03/05/backstrap-weaving-cross-knit-looping-tutorial-and-ikat/ |title= Backstrap weaving-cross knit looping tutorial and ikat |website= backstrapweaving.wordpress.com |access-date=3 May 2010 |date=3 May 2010}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/asia/Ikat/index.html | title=Central Asian Ikats from the Rau Collection | work=[[Victoria and Albert Museum]] | access-date= 13 November 2007 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071114165101/http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/asia/Ikat/index.html |archive-date=14 November 2007 }}</ref> A Latin American innovation which may also be employed elsewhere is to employ a round stick around which warp threads are wrapped in groups, thus allowing more precise control of the desired design.<ref name=Waddington/> The "corte" is the typical wrap-skirt used worn by Guatemalan women.

===India===
In [[India]], ''Ikat'' art has been present for thousands of years. In some parts of India, ''ikat'' processed cloth such as saree and kurtis are very popular, along with bedsheets, door screens, and towels.{{citation needed|date=July 2023}}

===Uzbekistan===
''Ikat'' is a common weaving technique in [[Uzbekistan|Uzbek]] culture. The Uzbek ''ikat'', locally referred to as ''[[:uz:abrbandi|abrbandi]]'', is distinguished by its bold and flamboyant patterns. The history of the Uzbek ''ikat'' dates back to the 19th century, when it was mastered by the Uzbeks. Since then, it has become an integral part of their cultural identity and an important aspect of traditional clothing.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://alesouk.com/single-ikat-or-double-ikat/|title=The Origins and Cultural Significance of Ikat|website=Alesouk|date=28 June 2023 |access-date=13 July 2023}}</ref>

==Accreditation==
As of 2010, the government of the Republic of Indonesia announced it would pursue UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage accreditation for its ''ikat'' weaving, along with ''songket'' and [[gamelan]], having successfully attained this UNESCO recognition for its [[wayang]], [[batik]] and the [[keris|kris]].<ref>{{cite web|website=[[Antara (news agency)|Antara News Indonesia]]|url= http://www.antaranews.com/berita/1265353577/batik-wayang-keris-jadi-warisan-budaya-dunia|title=Batik, Wayang, Keris: Jadi Warisan Budaya Dunia|language=Indonesian|date=5 February 2010|access-date=3 May 2010|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100523121325/http://www.antaranews.com/berita/1265353577/batik-wayang-keris-jadi-warisan-budaya-dunia|archive-date= 23 May 2010}}</ref>

{{clear}}

==See also==
{{Portal|Clothing|Fashion|Indonesia}}
* [[Batik]]
* ''[[Songket]]''
* ''[[Tenun]]''
* ''[[T'nalak]]''
* [[Weaving]]
* ''[[Odisha Ikat]]''
* [[Balinese textiles]]

==References==
{{reflist}}

==Further reading==
* {{cite book |last1= Gillow |first1= John |last2= Dawson |first2= Barry |year= 1995 |title= Traditional Indonesian Textiles |publisher= Thames and Hudson |pages= |isbn= 0-500-27820-2 }}
* {{cite book |last1= Ghosh |first1= G. K. |last2= Ghosh |first2= Shukla |year= 2000 |title= Ikat textiles of India |publisher= APH Publishing |pages= |isbn= 978-81-7648-167-0 |url= https://books.google.com/books?id=xOrTw0gPSVYC&q=Ikat&pg=PA116 }}
* {{Cite book |last1= Gibbon |first1= Kate Fitz |last2= Hale |first2= Andrew |date= 1997 |title= Ikat: Silks of Central Asia: the Guido Goldman Collection |publisher= Laurence King |isbn= 978-1-85669-101-7 |url= https://books.google.com/books?id=H2O0PwAACAAJ&q=Ikat }}
* {{cite book |last1= Rogers |first1= Susan |last2= Carey |first2= Hana |last3= Giglio |first3= Patricia |last4= Walters |first4= Martha |year= 2013 |title= Transnational Ikat: An Asian Textile on the Move |type= Exhibit Catalog, Cantor Art Gallery |location= |publisher= |pages= |oclc= |url= }}

==External links==
* {{cite web |title= Ikat from the University of Washington Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture |website= washington.edu/burkemuseum |url= http://www.washington.edu/burkemuseum/satextiles/indoindex.html |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20101114003319/http://www.washington.edu/burkemuseum/satextiles/indoindex.html |archive-date= 14 November 2010 }}
{{commons category|Ikat}}
* {{Europeana|last=Ikat |first= |accessdate= February 2012}}
* {{cite web |title= a weaving site that teaches you ''about'' ikat |website= allfiberarts.com |url= http://www.allfiberarts.com/library/aa97/aa100397.htm |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20061021160654/http://www.allfiberarts.com/library/aa97/aa100397.htm |archive-date= 21 October 2006 }}
* {{cite web |title= Making ikat cloth |publisher= [[Victoria and Albert Museum]] |url= http://www.vam.ac.uk/content/articles/m/album-with-nested-carousel18/ |access-date= 13 November 2007}}
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20050205024812/http://www.artxchange.org/news2003sept/page2.asp "The Extraordinary Ikat"] – The newsletter of ArtXchange (Summer/Autumn 2003) from [[Internet Archive]]
* {{cite web |publisher= [[Waddingtons|Waddington]] |url= http://backstrapweaving.wordpress.com/2010/03/05/backstrap-weaving-cross-knit-looping-tutorial-and-ikat |title= South American Ikat |work= South America |date= 5 March 2010 |access-date= 3 May 2010}}
* {{cite web |title= Ikat techniques adapted for surfwear |website= nma.gov.au |publisher= National Museum of Australia |url= http://www.nma.gov.au/exhibitions/australian_journeys/gallery_highlights?result_6095_result_page=7#thumbnail38 |access-date= 27 February 2012 |archive-date= 21 March 2015 |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20150321041338/http://www.nma.gov.au/exhibitions/australian_journeys/gallery_highlights?result_6095_result_page=7#thumbnail38 }}
{{Indonesian clothing}}
{{Uzbek clothing}}
{{Indonesia topics}}
{{Folk costume}}
{{Dyeing}}
{{Islamic art}}
{{Oriya culture}}
{{Weaving}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Ikat| ]]
[[Category:Indonesian art]]
[[Category:Figured fabrics]]
[[Category:Textile arts]]
[[Category:Textile patterns]]