View source for Lead climbing

{{short description|Technique of rock climbing}}
{{About|a technique in rock climbing|the Olympic and IFSC sport of lead climbing|Competition lead climbing}}
[[File:Ainhize Belar eskalatzen.jpg |thumb|A 'lead climber' on the bolted [[sport climbing]] route ''Gezurren Erresuma'' {{climbing grade|8c}}, in Spain.  Her rope has been clipped into several [[climbing protection|protection]] points.]]
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'''Lead climbing''' (or '''leading''') is a technique in [[rock climbing]] where two climbers work together to ascend a [[climbing route]].  The 'lead climber' — who is doing the climbing — clips the [[climbing rope|rope]] to pieces of [[climbing protection|protection]] as they ascend.  The 'second' (or 'belayer') stands at the base of the route controlling the other end of the rope, which is called [[belaying]] (e.g. if the 'lead climber' falls, the 'second' locks the rope).  The term distinguishes between the two roles and the greater effort and increased risk of the role of the 'lead climber'.<ref>{{cite web | website=[[Cambridge Advanced Learner's Dictionary|Cambridge Dictionary]] | url=https://dictionary.cambridge.org/dictionary/english/lead-climbing | title=Lead climbing | date=2025| quote=a type of climbing in which the climber clips a safety rope to devices that they fix in place as they climb, or to devices already fixed in place, while a second climber belays the rope (= controls it and keeps it tight) in case the lead climber falls | accessdate=15 November 2025}}</ref>

Leading a route is in contrast with the alternative climbing technique of [[top roping]], where even though there is still a 'second' belaying the rope, the 'lead climber' faces no risk in the event of a fall and does not need to clip into any protection as the rope is already [[Anchor (climbing)|anchored]] to the top of the route (e.g. if they fall they will just hang from the static rope).  Leading a climbing route is a [[Rock climbing#Description|core activity]] in rock climbing, and [[first ascent]]s (FA) and [[first free ascent]]s (FFA) of new routes must be done via lead climbing.

Lead climbing can be performed as [[free climbing]], in either a [[traditional climbing]] or a [[sport climbing]] format — leading a traditional climb is a much riskier and physically demanding exercise for the climber. [[Competition lead climbing]] is a sport-climbing format that is part of the Olympic sport of [[competition climbing]].  Lead climbing can also be performed as [[aid climbing]].  The term is not applied to [[free solo climbing]], as the free solo climber is alone and thus there is no need to distinguish the role of 'leader' from the 'second'.  

== Description ==
{{multiple image
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|total_width=320
|header=The two phases of leading a climb
|image1=Vorstieg Zeichnung.jpg|caption1=1. 'Leader' (top, climbing) being belayed by their 'second' (below, static)
|image2=Nachstieg Zeichnung.jpg|caption2=2. 'Leader' (top, static) now belaying their 'second' (below, climbing)
}}
Leading a climb involves a 'lead climbing pair'.  The 'lead climber' — the person initially doing the climbing (see image .1) — will have a rope attached to their [[climbing harness|harness]] that they will [[Glossary of climbing terms#clip in|clips]] into points of [[climbing protection|protection]] as they ascend the [[climbing route|route]]. The 'second' (or 'belayer'), remains static, standing at the base of the route controlling the other end of the rope, which is called [[belaying]]. The 'second' will use a [[belay device]] to attach the rope to their harness from which they can 'pay-out' the rope as the 'lead climber' ascends, but with which they can lock the rope if the 'lead climber' falls. Once the 'lead climber' has reached the top (see image .2), they create a fixed [[anchor (climbing)|anchor]] so they can act as the 'belayer' (from above), controlling the rope while the 'second' ascends. The 'second' will unclip the rope from the protection as they ascend.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/> 

If the pair are leading a [[traditional climbing]] route, the 'lead climber' must also arrange and insert 'removable protection' into the rock face as they climb the route (the 'second' will take it out as they ascend). However, if they are leading a [[sport climbing]] route, the protection will already be installed via pre-drilled [[bolt (climbing)|bolts]] into the rock face.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/><ref name=CL2>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/rock-climbing-terms-definitions/ | title=What's A Redpoint And What Do Other Climbing Terms Mean? Our Climbing Dictionary Has The Answers. | date=4 May 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | author=Climbing Staff}}</ref> Leading a traditional route is therefore a riskier and more physically demanding undertaking than leading a sport-climbing route of the same [[grade (climbing)|grade]].<ref name=RI1/>

If a 'lead climber' falls they will drop ''at least'' twice the distance to their last point of protection.  For example, if the 'lead climber' is {{convert|3|m|ft|0}} above their protection when they fall — and the 'belayer' immediately locks the rope — they will drop {{convert|6|m|ft|0}} until the rope holds them.<ref name=RI1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Rock & Ice]] | url=https://www.rockandice.com/how-to-climb/how-to-lead-climb/ | title=How to Lead Climb | date=12 September 2016 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref>  This aspect makes lead climbing a more physically demanding activity than [[top roping]], where the 'lead climber' is immediately held by the top-rope if they fall.  Note that when the 'second' is climbing and is belayed by the 'lead climber' from above, they are effectively top-roping and the rope will immediately hold them if they fall. This puts less onus on the skills of the 'second' climber, and they can also be partially 'pulled' up the route by the 'lead climber' if needed.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/>

Leading a climb requires good communication between the 'lead climber' and the 'second' who is doing the [[belaying]]. The 'lead climber' will want to avoid the 'second' holding the rope too tightly, which can create [[Glossary of climbing terms#rope drag|rope drag]] that acts as a downward force on the 'lead climber'. However, where the 'lead climber' feels that a fall is imminent (e.g. on a very hard section), they will want the 'second' to [[Glossary of climbing terms#take|take in]] any slack in the rope to minimize the length of their drop in the event that they fall.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/>

{{multiple image
|align=right
|direction= horizontal
|total_width=370
|header=Types of climbing protection used in lead climbing
|image1=DMM offset nut 11 broadside.jpg
|caption1=Removable [[nut (climbing)|nut]] on a traditional climbing route|alt1=A removable nut
|image2=Camalot C4 number 5 placed in a crack.jpg
|caption2=Removable [[SLCD]] on a traditional climbing route|alt2=A removable SLCD
|image3=Setaki.JPG
|caption3=Fixed [[bolt (climbing)|bolt]] and [[quickdraw]] on a sport climb|alt3=A removable bolt
}}

===First ascent and redpoint===

The act and desire to 'lead' a climbing route is related to the definition of what is a [[first ascent]] (FA), or [[first free ascent]] (FFA) in climbing.  The [[grade (climbing)|technical grades]] assigned to climbing routes are based on the climber 'lead climbing' the route, and not top-roping it.  If a climber wants to test themselves at a specific technical grade, or set a new [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing|technical grade milestone]] in the sport, then they must 'lead climb' the route.<ref name=CM1>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-lead-climb/ | title=A Beginner's Guide to Lead Climbing | first=Stephen | last=Potter | date=23 August 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref><ref name=CN1>{{cite web | magazine=Climber (Magazine) | url=https://www.climbernews.com/what-is-lead-climbing/ | title=What Is Lead Climbing? | date=17 June 2021 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref>

Before the arrival of sport-climbing in the early-1980s, traditional climbers frowned upon FFAs where the 'lead climber' had practiced the route beforehand on a top-rope (called [[headpoint]]ing).  The arrival of sport-climbing led to the development of the [[redpoint (climbing)|redpoint]] as the accepted definition of a lead climbing FFA, which includes the practices of headpointing.  Where a 'lead climber' can redpoint a climbing route on their first attempt and without any prior knowledge, it is called an [[onsight]], which is considered a distinctive redpoint, and is recorded in [[List of grade milestones in rock climbing#Onsighted / Flashed by men|grade milestone]]s and [[climbing guidebook]]s.<ref name=Gripped>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/redpoint-pinkpoint-and-headpoint-what-do-they-mean/ | title=Redpoint, Pinkpoint, and Headpoint – What Do They Mean? | first=Aaron | last=Pardy | date=5 November 2022 | accessdate=21 December 2022}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/places/history-headpointing-peak-district-gritstone/ | title=How the World's Boldest Climbing Area Got that Way: How headpointing became a legitimate, go-to tactic on Peak District gritstone | first=Mike | last=Huttom | date=3 November 2022 | accessdate=13 February 2023}}</ref>

==Risk==
[[File:Falling lead climber.jpg|thumb|A 'lead climber' in the process of falling, where the belayer (who is not visible) has locked the rope, and the 'lead climber' is in the process of falling over twice the distance to their last piece of [[climbing protection|protection]].]]
Aside from the specific risks involved in [[traditional climbing#Risk|placing the temporary protection equipment]] when leading traditional climbing routes — and making sure that it won't rip out in the event of a fall — the 'lead climber' also needs to manage other general risks when they are leading a route, such as:<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/><ref name=RI1/>

* [[Glossary of climbing terms#runout|Runout]] is the distance from the 'lead climber' to the last point of protection. In any fall, the 'lead climber' falls ''at least'' twice the distance of the runout (and sometimes more if the climbing rope flexes, or if the belayer does not immediately lock the rope and lets more rope 'pay-out').  The greater the runout, the greater the total distance in any fall, and the greater the risk to the 'lead climber'.  Some leads involve runouts where any fall will result in a "ground-fall" (also called "hitting the deck").<ref name=RI1/><ref name=OUT50>{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190505230457/https://www.outsideonline.com/2062326/beginners-guide-rock-climbing | url=https://www.outsideonline.com/2062326/beginners-guide-rock-climbing | archive-date=May 5, 2019| title=The Noob's Guide to Rock Climbing | magazine=[[Outside (magazine)|Outside]]| date=16 March 2016 }}</ref>
* Hitting obstacles during falls.  Ironically, extreme climbing routes tend to be very [[Overhang (climbing)|overhanging]] (e.g. ''[[Realization (climb)|Realization]]'' or ''[[Silence (climb)|Silence]]''), and thus where a 'lead climber' falls, they naturally avoid hitting any obstacles on the way downce until the rope holds.  In contrast, on easier climbing routes, there is a greater chance of the 'lead climber' hitting against obstacles on the rock face as they fall, thus risking injury.<ref name=RI1/><ref name=OUT50/>
* [[Glossary of climbing terms#back-clipping|Back-clipping]] is where the rope is clipped into a [[quickdraw]] in such a way that the lead climber's end runs ''underneath'' the quickdraw carabiner as opposed to over the top of it; if the 'leader' falls, the rope may fold directly over the carabiner gate causing it to open with dangerous consequences.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes">{{cite web | magazine=Grippped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/profiles/three-common-lead-climbing-mistakes-to-avoid/ | date=1 March 2021 | accessdate=3 March 2023 | title=Three Common Lead Climbing Mistakes to Avoid}}</ref>
* [[Glossary of climbing terms#z-clipping|Z-clipping]] is where the 'lead climber' grabs the rope below an already clipped [[quickdraw]] and clips it into the next quickdraw, resulting in a "zig-zag" shape of the rope on the wall, which can create immense [[Glossary of climbing terms#rope drag|rope drag]] making further progress impossible until it is fixed.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes" />
* Turtling is where one of the 'lead climber's' limbs is ''behind'' the rope when they fall, which can result in the climber being "flipped" upside down (i.e. like a turtle on its back), which can then eject the climber from their harness, which is a serious event.<ref name=RI1/><ref name="gripped-climbing-mistakes" />

==Equipment==
{{see also|Rock-climbing equipment}}
{{multiple image
|align=right
|direction= horizontal
|total_width=370
|footer='Lead climbers' on [[traditional climbing|traditional climbing routes]] carrying their [[climbing protection]] on their [[climbing harness]] whilst being [[belaying|belayed]] by their 'second' who is standing below.
|image1=Creeks Giving - Climbing in Indian Creek, Utah - 3.jpg
|image2=Traditional rock climbing red river gorge.jpg
}}
Regardless of the particular type of format that the 'lead climber' is undertaking (i.e. traditional, sport, or aid), they will require a [[climbing harness|harness]] attached to one end of a [[Dynamic rope|dynamic]] [[kernmantle rope]] (usually via a [[figure-eight knot]]).  Their 'second'—who will be [[belaying]]—will use a mechanical [[belay device]] that is clipped into the climbing rope and which 'pays-out' the rope as needed as the 'lead climber' ascends the route, but which can immediately grip the rope tightly in the event that the 'lead climber' falls.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/>
{{multiple image
|align=right
|direction= horizontal
|total_width=370
|footer='Lead climbers' on [[sport climbing|sport climbing routes]] about to clip their ropes into [[quickdraw]]s, which are already hanging from pre-installed [[bolt (climbing)|bolt]]s, with their [[belaying|belayer]] standing below.
|image1=Fabio Palma clipping in L2 of E NON LA VOGLIONO CAPIRE, Sardinia.jpg
|image2=Fabio Palma, Cardiopalma, 7c, Kalymnos.jpg
}}
Where the 'lead climber' is following a traditional-climbing format, they will need to carry an extensive range of protective equipment (often referred to as a 'climbing rack' and is usually worn around the waist being attached to the [[climbing harness]]) such as [[Nut (climbing)|nuts]], [[Hex (climbing)|hexcentrics]] and [[tricam]]s (known as "passive" protection), and/or [[spring-loaded camming device]]s (or "friends", and known as "active protection").  

Where the 'lead climber' is following a sport-climbing format, they only need to carry [[quickdraw]]s (which they will also attach to their climbing harness) that they will clip into the pre-drilled bolts along the sport route.<ref name=CM1/><ref name=CN1/><ref>{{cite web | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190427152340/https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/traditional-climbing-basics.html | url=https://www.rei.com/learn/expert-advice/traditional-climbing-basics.html | title=Trad Climbing Basics | publisher=rei.com | archive-date=Apr 27, 2019}}</ref>

Some [[indoor climbing]] walls provide in-situ mechanical [[lead auto belay]] devices enabling the climber to lead the route but belayed by the device. Typical versions belay the lead climber from above so the climber is essentially [[top roping]] the route, and thus does not need to carry any climbing protection.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/news/caught-by-the-machine-lead-autobelays-to-hit-the-market/ | title=Caught by the Machine: Lead Autobelays to Hit the Market | first=Delaney | last=Miller | date=30 November 2021 | accessdate=1 October 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web | url=https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/lead-climbing-auto-belay-prograde | date=2 December 2021 | first=Sam | last=Anderson | title=Arrested by Machines: Europe's Lead Climbing Auto-Belay Targets US Gyms | magazine=GearJunkie | access-date=1 October 2023}}</ref>

== Multi-pitch leading==
{{see also|Multi-pitch climbing}}
Longer climbing routes (e.g. such as in [[big wall climbing]]), are usually led in series of multiple [[pitch (climbing)|pitches]] of circa {{Convert|35-50|m|ft|adj=off}} in length. In multi-pitch leading, the two climbers can swap the roles of 'lead climber' and 'second' on successive pitches.  The 'second' also needs to be comfortable working from a [[Glossary of climbing terms#hanging belay|hanging belay]], and both need to be familiar with the process for swapping between roles safely and efficiently without becoming accidentally unattached from the protection.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/how-to-multi-pitch-climb-efficiently/#_pay-wall | title=How to Multi-pitch Lead Climb Efficiently | first=Sara | last=Garlick | date=20 May 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023}}</ref>  Given that average pitch length will be longer, and that the weather potentially poorer, both climbers need to communicate clearly, and know the [[Glossary of climbing terms#climbing command|climbing command]]s.<ref name=CL5>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/learn-to-climb-trad-leading-and-following/ | date=16 November 2016 | first=Julie | last=Ellison | title=Learn to Climb Trad: Leading and Following}}</ref>

On long but easier routes, the lead climbing pair may use [[simul climbing]], whereby both climbers ''simultaneously'' ascend the route.  The 'lead climber' acts like on a normal lead climb, however, the 'second' does not remain belaying in a static position, but instead also climbs, removing/unclipping the protection equipment of the 'lead climber'.  Both climbers are tied to the rope at all times, and both make sure that there are several points of protection in-situ between them. Simul climbing is performed on terrain both climbers are very comfortable on as any fall can still be very serious. In simul climbing, the stronger climber will ofen go second, wbich is in contrast to normal lead climbing.<ref>{{cite web | magazine=[[Climbing (magazine)|Climbing]] | title=Advanced Climbing Techniques: Simul-Climbing and Short-Fixing | first=Miranda |last=Oakley | date=23 December 2022 | accessdate=3 March 2023 |url=https://www.climbing.com/skills/advanced-techniques-simul-climbing-and-short-fixing/#_pay-wall}}</ref>

== Competition lead climbing ==
{{main article|Competition lead climbing}}
[[File:Climbing World Championships 2018 Lead Final Garnbret 04.jpg|thumb|[[Janja Garnbret]] in the [[2018 IFSC Climbing World Championships]]]]
The arrival of the safer format of [[sport climbing]] in the early 1980s led to a rapid development in the related sport of [[competition lead climbing]].<ref name=GR1>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/events/a-history-of-climbing-competitions-since-1985/ | title=A History of Climbing Competitions Since 1985 | date=15 July 2019 | accessdate=24 February 2023}}</ref>  The first major international lead climbing competition was held in Italy at [[Sportroccia]] in 1985.<ref name=GR1/>  By the late 1990s, competitive lead climbing was joined by [[competition bouldering]], and [[competition speed climbing]] in what was to become the annual [[IFSC Climbing World Cup]] and biennial [[IFSC Climbing World Championships]].<ref name=GR1/>  Competition lead climbing first appeared as an event in the [[2020 Summer Olympics]] for [[Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Men's combined|men's]] and [[Sport climbing at the 2020 Summer Olympics – Women's combined|women's]] medal events; it was structured in a format consisting of a single "combined" event of lead, bouldering and speed climbing.<ref name=CN2>{{cite web | website=Climber | url=https://www.climbernews.com/what-is-sport-climbing/  | date=6 April 2021 | accessdate=2 March 2023 | title=What Is Sport Climbing? – Everything You Need To Know}}</ref><ref name=GR3>{{cite web | magazine=Gripped Magazine | url=https://gripped.com/indoor-climbing/olympic-competition-climbing-explained/ | title=Olympic Competition Climbing: Explained | first=Noah | last=Walker | date=26 July 2021 | accessdate=26 February 2023}}</ref>

== See also ==
{{commons category}}
*[[History of rock climbing]]
*[[List of grade milestones in rock climbing]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

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[[Category:Climbing techniques]]
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