View source for Lismore, Scotland

{{Short description|Island of Inner Hebrides, Scotland}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=April 2015}}
{{Use British English|date=April 2015}}
{{Good article}}
{{Infobox Scottish island 
|coordinates = {{coord|56.52|-5.5|display=inline}}
|location_map=Scotland Argyll and Bute
|caption=Lismore shown within Argyll and Bute
|GridReference=NM840408
|official_name=Lismore
|celtic name={{Audio|Lios Mor.ogg|Lios Mòr}}
|norse name=
|meaning of name= great garden or great enclosure
|area=  {{cvt|2351|ha|acre}}
|area rank = 33
|highest elevation= Barr Mòr, {{cvt|127|m|ft|0}}
|Population=190<ref name=RESAS>{{RESAS}}</ref>
|population rank=32
|population density ={{cvt|8.1|PD/km2}}<ref name=RESAS/><ref name=Smith109/>
|main settlement=[[Achnacroish]]
|island group= Inner Hebridies
|local authority=[[Argyll and Bute]]
|references=<ref name=Smith109>Haswell-Smith (2004) p. 109</ref><ref name=OS>{{Ordnance Survey|access-date=21 August 2013}}</ref>
}}
'''Lismore''' ({{langx|gd|Lios Mòr}}, {{IPA|gd|ʎis̪ ˈmoːɾ|pron}} possibly meaning "great enclosure" or "garden") is an island of around {{convert|2351|ha|sqmi|1|abbr=off}} in the [[Inner Hebrides]] of Scotland. The climate is damp and mild, with over {{convert|166|cm}} of rain recorded annually. This fertile, low-lying island was once a major centre of [[Celtic Christianity]], with a 6th-century [[monastery]] associated with [[Saint Moluag]], and later became the seat of the medieval [[Bishop of Argyll]]. There are numerous ruined structures, including a [[broch]] and two 13th-century castles.

During the 19th century, various new industries were introduced, including [[Lime (material)|lime]] quarrying. During the early decades of the 20th century, the population exceeded 1,000, but this was followed by a lengthy decline. Although resident numbers are now less than 200, there was a small increase from 2001 to 2011. About a third of the population were recorded as [[Scottish Gaelic|Gaelic]]-speaking at the former date. The modern economy is largely based on farming, fishing and tourism, and the largest settlement is [[Achnacroish]]. Various shipwrecks have been recorded in the vicinity.

==Etymology==
In the Gaelic name, ''lios'' means "garden"<ref name=MacanT>Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 80</ref> or "enclosure",<ref name=Smith109/> and ''mòr'' is simply "big" or "great",<ref name=MacanT/> reflecting either the fertility of the island amidst mountainous surroundings, or the presence of a defined area surrounding the early monastery.<ref name=Murr155>Murray (1977) p. 155</ref> One of the earliest English language references is to "Lismoir", recorded in the 16th century.<ref name=Monro>Monro (1549) "Lismoir" no. 54</ref>

Achnacroish is from ''Achadh na Croise'' and means "the field of the cross".<ref>Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 3</ref> The other small settlements are Clachan (village with a church)<ref>Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 30</ref> and Port Ramsay, opposite Eilean Ramsay (Ramsay's isle). Most of the surrounding islets have descriptive names, such as Eilean Dubh (black island), Eilean nan Gamhna (isle of the [[Calf (animal)|stirks]]) and Pladda (flat island, from [[Old Norse]]).<ref>Mac an Tàilleir (2003) p. 96</ref><ref>[http://www.faclair.com/ ''Am Faclair Beag: An English - Scottish Gaelic dictionary incorporating Dwelly''] Faclair.com. Retrieved 1 December 2012.</ref>

== Geology ==
Lismore is formed almost wholly from rocks of the [[Neoproterozoic]] age Lismore Limestone Formation, which is ascribed to the Blair Atholl Subgroup of the [[Appin Group]] within the [[Dalradian]] sequence. There are also some minor graphitic [[pelite]]s (sometimes described as 'interbedded black [[slate]]',<ref>Gray (1974) p. 83</ref><ref>Stephenson and Merritt (2010) pp. 3, 13</ref> within the formation. The [[limestone]] [[country rock]] is intruded by a handful of NE-SW aligned [[lamprophyre]] [[dike (geology)|dykes]] of [[Silurian]] to early [[Devonian]] age associated with the Strontian Granite Complex and by large numbers of NW-SE aligned dykes of [[dolerite]] and [[basalt]] of [[Palaeogene]] age along with a rather fewer number assigned to the ‘Loch Scridain Suite.

Quaternary deposits include glacial [[till]] and [[peat]] alongside some small patches of [[alluvium]] ([[clay]], [[silt]], [[sand]] and [[gravel]]) which occupy lower ground. Around the margins of Lismore are modern beach deposits and [[raised beach|raised marine deposits]] of clay, silt and sand, the latter being a product of varying relative sea-levels during the [[Holocene]] epoch. The whole of Scotland was subjected to [[Quaternary glaciation|glaciation during the Pleistocene]] [[epoch (geology)|epoch]]. A sign of this on Lismore is the presence of rock-cut platforms close to the seashore that indicate the changing sea-levels; in some areas of the northern coast, they also betray the presence of ice by the striation marks on the rocks.<ref>McCann (1966) pp. 90-91</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Onshore Geoindex |url=https://mapapps2.bgs.ac.uk/geoindex/home.html |website=British Geological Survey |publisher=British Geological Survey |access-date=6 February 2020}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title= Lismore, sheet 44E (Scotland), Solid Edition |url=http://www.largeimages.bgs.ac.uk/iip/mapsportal.html?id=1002389 |website=BGS large map images |publisher=British Geological Survey |access-date=6 February 2020}}</ref>

==Geography==
[[File:Lynn of Lorne NSA.png|thumb|A map of the Lynn of Lorne [[National Scenic Area (Scotland)|National Scenic Area]], showing Lismore at its heart.]]
The island of Lismore lies in [[Loch Linnhe]], north east of [[Isle of Mull|Mull]], in the [[Argyll and Bute]] council area. It is {{convert|15|km}} long and about {{convert|2|km}} wide and oriented from SW to NE, roughly parallel to the [[Great Glen Fault]]. To the east is an arm of Loch Linnhe known as the Lynn of Lorn.<ref name=OS/> Composed almost entirely of limestone, Lismore has fertile soil and an abundance of trees and shrubs, including [[Fraxinus excelsior|ash]] and [[Acer pseudoplatanus|sycamore]]. The topography consists of sheltered furrows of land between raised areas that run longitudinally up the island's spine.<ref name=Murr155/><ref name=gaz>{{cite web |url=http://www.scottish-places.info/features/featurefirst1552.html |title=Lismore |publisher=Gazetteer for Scotland |access-date=1 August 2013}}</ref><ref>Stephenson and Merritt (2010) p. 13</ref>

The area of the island is {{convert|2351|ha|sqmi|1|abbr=off}}<ref name=Smith109/> and the highest elevation is Barr Mòr in the south above Kilcheran, which reaches only {{convert|127|m|ft|0|abbr=off}}.<ref name=OS/> (Haswell-Smith ranks Lismore as the 50th offshore Scottish island by height).<ref>Haswell-Smith (2004) p. 504</ref>

There are several small [[loch]]s on the island, the largest of which are Loch Fiart in the southwest, Kilcheran Loch {{convert|3|km|mi}} further northeast, and Loch Baile a' Ghobhainn another {{cvt|4|km|mi}} northeast, north of Achnacroish.<ref name=OS/> These three water bodies form the Lismore Lochs [[Special Area of Conservation]], a status which is accorded as they are amongst the best examples in Scotland of lochs on a limestone [[substrate (marine biology)|substrate]]. The [[alkaline]] waters are very clear and low in nutrients and support the rare ''[[Chara (alga)|Chara]]'' stoneworts ''C. rudis'' and ''C. curtis''. ''C. pedunculata'' has also been recorded.<ref>[http://jncc.defra.gov.uk/protectedsites/sacselection/sac.asp?EUCode=UK0012977 "Lismore Lochs"]. JNCC. Retrieved 3 October 2013.</ref> The lochs lie longitudinally down the island and are of roughly similar size. The total surface area of all three combined is about {{convert|32|ha}}, and they are inhabited by [[Brown trout|trout]].<ref>[http://jncc.defra.gov.uk/protectedsites/sacselection/sac.asp?EUCode=UK0012977 "Lismore Lochs - Natura 2000 data form"]. (pdf) JNCC. Retrieved 3 October 2013.</ref>{{refn|Loch Baile a' Ghobhainn is {{convert|13.3|ha|0}} in extent with an average depth of {{convert|11.9|m|0}} and {{convert|26.8|m|0}} deep at its maximum. Kilcheran Loch is {{convert|11.3|ha|0}} in area and {{convert|18.2|m|0}} deep and the figures for Loch Fiart are {{convert|13.3|ha|0}} and {{convert|17.7|m|0}} respectively.<ref>Murray and Pullar (1910) [http://maps.nls.uk/bathymetric/text.cfm?cid=37784 "The Lochs of Lismore"]. Volume II, Part II pp. 171-72. National Library of Scotland. Retrieved 5 October 2013.</ref>|group=Note}}

Lismore is part of the ancient district of [[Lorne, Scotland|Lorne]] and is said to lie "in the cockpit" of this territory.<ref>Fraser (2009) p. 106, quoting Aidan MacDonald.</ref> In the modern day, it is at the heart of the ''Lynn of Lorn [[National Scenic Area (Scotland)|National Scenic Area]]'', one of forty such areas in Scotland, which have been defined so as to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development.<ref name=nsa>{{cite web |url=https://www.nature.scot/professional-advice/protected-areas-and-species/protected-areas/national-designations/national-scenic-areas |title=National Scenic Areas |publisher=NatureScot |access-date=30 September 2020}}</ref> 
The national scenic areas cover 15,726&nbsp;[[hectares|ha]], of which 10,088&nbsp;ha are marine seascape,<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas/maps |title=National Scenic Areas - Map s |publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage |date=2010-12-20 |access-date=2018-05-04 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180612140337/http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas/maps |archive-date=12 June 2018 |url-status=dead}}</ref> and includes the whole of Lismore, along with neighbouring areas on the mainland such as [[Benderloch]] and [[Port Appin]], and the [[Shuna, Loch Linnhe|Shuna Island]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://sitelink.nature.scot/site/9140 |title=Lynn of Lorne NSA |publisher=NatureScot |access-date=30 September 2020}}</ref>

The views from Barr Mòr, the island's highest point, are superlative. Although Barr Mòr is only of modest height, from there "the skyscape is vast and made so not by its emptiness, but by the throng of high and pointed hills lifting out of the glittering seas and islands. Nowhere else on the Highland coast can you enjoy a view of the mountainous mainland to equal this one."<ref>Murray (1977) p. 157</ref>

The offshore islets of Eilean na Cloich and Eilean Dubh in the Lynn of Lorn and [[Bernera Island|Bernera]] and Dubh Sgeir in the Lynn of Morvern to the west and Eilean Gainimh to the NE are extensively used by [[Phoca vitulina|common seals]] and form the ''Eileanan agus Sgeirean Lios mòr'' Special Area of Conservation.<ref>''Eileanan agus Sgeiran Lios mór Special Area of Conservation: Advice under Regulation 33(2)'' (2006) Scottish Natural Heritage.</ref> The whole island of Bernera is also an [[SSSI]], its limestone maritime cliffs being a key feature along with the presence of the nationally scarce [[Sorbus rupicola|rock whitebeam]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://apps.snh.gov.uk/sitelink-api/v1/sites/199/documents/1 |title=Bernera Island SSSI |website=www.nature.scot |access-date=30 September 2020}}</ref> Creag Island and Pladda are other islets in the Lynn of Lorn. Eilean nan Caorach, Inn Island, Eilean Droineach and Eilean Ramsay are amongst another cluster of small islands off the north coast, and Eilean Loch Oscair is to the NW.<ref name=OS/> Lismore Lighthouse, built by [[Robert Stevenson (civil engineer)|Robert Stevenson]], lies on the small island of [[Eilean Musdile]] to the south west, with [[Lady's Rock]] a kilometre further away in the same direction.

==Climate==
Lismore has a [[maritime climate]] with cool summers and mild winters. The nearest official [[Met Office]] weather station for which online records are available is [[Dunbeg|Dunstaffnage]] on the mainland north of Oban.

{{Weather box
|location = Dunstaffnage 3m asl, 1971-2000 (Weather station {{convert|2.7|km|0}} NNE of Oban)
|metric first = Yes
|single line = Yes
|Jan record high C= 13
|Feb record high C= 13
|Mar record high C= 15
|Apr record high C= 24
|May record high C= 25
|Jun record high C= 27
|Jul record high C= 27
|Aug record high C= 27
|Sep record high C= 24
|Oct record high C= 20
|Nov record high C= 15
|Dec record high C= 13
|year record high C= 27
|Jan high C = 7.0
|Feb high C = 7.2
|Mar high C = 8.6
|Apr high C = 11.0
|May high C = 14.5
|Jun high C = 16.2
|Jul high C = 17.7
|Aug high C = 17.7
|Sep high C = 15.4
|Oct high C = 12.6
|Nov high C = 9.4
|Dec high C = 7.9
|year high C = 12.1
|Jan low C = 2.1
|Feb low C = 2.2
|Mar low C = 3.0
|Apr low C = 4.2
|May low C = 6.6
|Jun low C = 8.8
|Jul low C = 10.9
|Aug low C = 10.9
|Sep low C = 9.3
|Oct low C = 7.3
|Nov low C = 4.3
|Dec low C = 3.0
|year low C = 6.1
|Jan record low C= -8
|Feb record low C= -7
|Mar record low C= -7
|Apr record low C= -2
|May record low C= 0
|Jun record low C= 2
|Jul record low C= 5
|Aug record low C= 3
|Sep record low C= 1
|Oct record low C= -1
|Nov record low C= -6
|Dec record low C= -8
|year record low C= -8
|Jan precipitation mm = 192.2
|Feb precipitation mm = 139.5
|Mar precipitation mm = 153.2
|Apr precipitation mm = 80.1
|May precipitation mm = 67.0
|Jun precipitation mm = 82.6
|Jul precipitation mm = 102.4
|Aug precipitation mm = 119.2
|Sep precipitation mm = 163.3
|Oct precipitation mm = 186.9
|Nov precipitation mm = 182.1
|Dec precipitation mm = 192.4
|year precipitation mm = 1660.9
|Jan sun = 33.5
|Feb sun = 59.6
|Mar sun = 86.2
|Apr sun = 145.8
|May sun = 189.7
|Jun sun = 174.9
|Jul sun = 142.6
|Aug sun = 141.7
|Sep sun = 97.5
|Oct sun = 75.6
|Nov sun = 46.2
|Dec sun = 30.7
|year sun = 1224.0
|unit precipitation days= mm
|Jan precipitation days= 27
|Feb precipitation days= 23
|Mar precipitation days= 28
|Apr precipitation days= 24
|May precipitation days= 23
|Jun precipitation days= 26
|Jul precipitation days= 24
|Aug precipitation days= 26
|Sep precipitation days= 27
|Oct precipitation days= 28
|Nov precipitation days= 27
|Dec precipitation days= 27
|year precipitation days= 
|unit rain days= mm 
|Jan rain days= 25
|Feb rain days= 21
|Mar rain days= 27
|Apr rain days= 24
|May rain days= 23
|Jun rain days= 26
|Jul rain days= 24
|Aug rain days= 26
|Sep rain days= 27
|Oct rain days= 28
|Nov rain days= 27
|Dec rain days= 27
|year rain days= 
|unit snow days= cm
|Jan snow days= 7
|Feb snow days= 6
|Mar snow days= 5
|Apr snow days= 1
|May snow days= 0
|Jun snow days= 0
|Jul snow days= 0
|Aug snow days= 0
|Sep snow days= 0
|Oct snow days= 0
|Nov snow days= 1
|Dec snow days= 3
|year snow days= 
|source 1 = [[Met Office]]<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/averages/19712000/sites/dunstaffnage.html |title=Dunstaffnage 1971-2000 averages |access-date=2 Nov 2011 |publisher=[[Met Office]] |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111019064731/http://www.metoffice.gov.uk/climate/uk/averages/19712000/sites/dunstaffnage.html |archive-date=19 October 2011 |df=dmy-all }}</ref>
|source 2 = Weatherbase <ref>{{cite web |title=Oban weather records |url=http://www.weatherbase.com/weather/weather.php3?s=041130&refer=&cityname=Oban-Scotland-United-Kingdom |publisher=Weatherbase |access-date=23 November 2011}}</ref> 
|date=Nov 2011
}}

==Prehistory==
[[File:Tirefour Broch 20100929.jpg|thumb|The [[broch]] at Tirefour]]
There are various [[Bronze Age]] [[cairn]]s on the island.<ref>Hay (2009) [http://www.birlinn.co.uk/Lismore-9781841585659.html Birlinn overview]. Birlinn. Retrieved 10 August 2013.</ref> [[Tirefour Castle]] is an [[Iron Age]] [[broch]] of an uncertain date that is a prominent landmark on Lismore's east coast. The walls have an average thickness of {{convert|4.5|m|ft}}, enclosing a circular court about {{convert|12.2|m|ft}} in diameter. The wall still stands {{convert|3|m|ft}} high and reaches {{convert|4.9|m|ft}} in the south east.<ref>{{Historic Environment Scotland|cat=PLA |num=23082 |num2=NM84SE 1 |desc=Lismore, Tirefour Castle |access-date=19 June 2025}}</ref> There is a second possible broch site at An Dùn, SW of Loch Fiart,<ref name=OS/> and these are amongst the most southerly examples of these enigmatic fortifications.<ref name=Creegan>Creegan (1976) p. 65</ref> There are also various [[dun (fortification)|dun]]s on the island that may date to the 1st or 2nd centuries AD.<ref name=Creegan/>

==History==
===Early Christianity and Scandinavian influence===
Lismore was an important centre of [[Celtic Christianity]] from an early date. The ''[[Iona Chronicle]]'' records the death of [[Saint Moluag|Mo-Luóc]] (also known as Moluag), who was probably abbot of the Lismore monastery in 594, and of his successors Neman in 613 and Eochaid in 637. There is, however, no reason to suppose that this was a daughter house of [[Columba]]'s [[abbey]] on [[Iona]] itself.<ref>Fraser (2009) pp. 105-06</ref> Lismore probably maintained its status as the principal religious house of the  [[Cenél Loairn]] during the remainder of the 7th century<ref>Fraser (2009) p. 250</ref> and the deaths of abbots Iarnlaigh c. 700, Colmán in 704 and Crónán ua Eoain in 718 are recorded in the ''[[Annals of Ulster]]''. Five further such obituaries are recorded in the latter half of the 8th century.<ref>Fraser (2009) p. 372</ref>

Lismore was part of the kingdom of [[Dalriada]] in the 6th century and probably thereafter until the arrival of the [[Vikings]] in the late 8th century, after which it is likely the island was absorbed into the Norse-Gael [[Kingdom of the Isles]]. [[Magnus Barelegs]] had established direct Norwegian overlordship over this sprawling [[Sea-King|sea kingdom]] by 1098.<ref>Duffy (1992) pp. 110</ref> In that year, [[Edgar of Scotland]] signed a treaty with Magnus which settled much of the boundary between the Scots and Norwegian claims in these islands. Edgar formally acknowledged the existing situation by giving up his claims to the Hebrides but there were a few exceptions including [[Luing]] and Lismore, which were retained by the Scots.<ref>Sellar (2000) p. 191</ref>

===Medieval period===
[[File:CastleCoeffinLismore-ARuinedMacDougallStronghold(ColinSmith)Aug1995.jpg|thumb|left|[[Castle Coeffin]]]]
Lismore later became the seat of the medieval [[Bishop of Argyll|Bishopric of Argyll]]. Before the late 12th century the [[Bishop of Dunkeld|Bishopric of Dunkeld]] included all of [[Argyll]], but sometime between 1183 and 1193 they were separated, as apparently the then Bishop [[John Scotus (bishop of Dunkeld)|John Scotus]] was unable to speak Gaelic.<ref>Turner (1998) p. 646</ref><ref name=Murr156>Murray (1977) p. 156</ref> Lismore became the seat of the new bishop, and he and his successors were known as ''Episcopi Lismorenses''<ref name=Smith109/> but a papal mandate in 1249 proposed that the seat be transferred to "some more secure and accessible place".<ref>Turner (1998) p. 648</ref> At least by 1268, Laurence de Ergadia became Bishop of Argyll and served in that position until his death in 1299.<ref>Dowden, Bishops, p. 379.</ref>

In the event [[St Moluag's Cathedral, Lismore|St Moluag's cathedral]] at Clachan maintained its position until 1507, when the diocese's centre was moved to [[Saddell]] in [[Kintyre]].<ref name=Smith109/> It was burned down during the [[Reformation]]<ref name=Murr156/> and only the choir survives in greatly altered form, the nave and western tower having been reduced to their foundations. There is also evidence of an enclosure, probably medieval.<ref>Macdonald (1974) [http://www.biab.ac.uk/contents/44558 Abstract]. British and Irish Archaeological Bibliography. Retrieved 3 August 2013.</ref>

The ruins of [[Coeffin Castle]] stand on the summit of a rocky promontory on the coast west of Clachan. There is the outline of an oblong hall-house, which may be 13th century, and an irregularly shaped [[Motte-and-bailey castle|bailey]], likely of a later date.<ref>{{Historic Environment Scotland|cat=PLA |num=23093 |num2=NM84SE 2 |desc=Lismore, Castle Coeffin |access-date=19 June 2025}}</ref> A tidal [[Fishing weir|fish trap]], of unknown age, is located in the small bay to the south-east of the castle.<ref>{{Historic Environment Scotland|cat=PLA |num=281488 |num2=NM84SE 60 |desc=Lismore, Castle Coeffin |access-date=19 June 2025}}</ref> To the north-east of the castle are the remains of a stone-walled fort.<ref>{{Historic Environment Scotland|cat=PLA |num=23088 |num2=NM84SE 15 |desc=Lismore, Castle Coeffin |access-date=19 June 2025}}</ref>
[[File:Achadun Castle.jpg|thumb|right|[[Achanduin Castle]] as seen from Bernera Bay]]

The remains of [[Achanduin Castle]] west of Achnacroish is also thought to date back to the 13th century.<ref name="featurefirst6194">{{cite web |url=http://www.scottish-places.info/features/featurefirst6194.html |title=Achadun Castle |publisher=[[Gazetteer for Scotland]] |access-date=2007-08-15}}</ref> Built by the [[Clan MacDougall|MacDougalls]] around 1290, who held it throughout the 14th century,<ref name="TBofA">Turner (1998) pp. 650-51</ref> the castle is then thought to have been held by the Bishops of Argyll until the mid 16th century.<ref name="featurefirst6194"/><ref>{{Historic Environment Scotland|cat=PLA |num=23018 |num2=NM83NW 3 |desc=Lismore, Achadun Castle |access-date=19 June 2025}}</ref> The castle overlooks the island of [[Bernera, Lismore|Bernera]].<ref name=OS/>

In the 16th century [[Donald Monro (priest)|Donald Monro]] provided a short description of the island in [[Scots language|Scots]]: {{lang|sco|Lismoir, ane iyle quher leid ure is, fornent Douard. This iyle is four myle lang, with ane paroche kirke in it.}}<ref name=Monro/> ("Lismore, an isle where lead ore is, opposite [[Duart Castle|Duart]]. This isle is four miles long, with a parish church on it".){{refn|This quotation is from the [[Sir James Balfour, 1st Baronet of Denmilne and Kinnaird|Balfour]] manuscript<ref name=M54/>  quoted in the 1774 Auld edition. Monro's work was first published in [[Latin]] in 1582. It forms 11 short "chapters" of [[George Buchanan]]'s ''Rerum Scoticarum Historia'' with all of the islands listed, although with much omission of the details. In this version the description is: "Lismore, eight miles long and two broad, which was formerly the seat of the bishop of Argyle, and in which besides the productions common to others, metals have been found".<ref name=M54>Munro (1961) p. 54, crediting the translation to "Aikman".</ref> In the [[Robert Sibbald|Sibbald]] version of 1682, which R.W. Munro preferred as the main basis for his 1961 book on the topic,{{sfn|Munro|1961|p=29}}  "Lismoir" is "ane fair mane Ile 8 myle lang from the north-eist to the south-west, 2 myle braid with ane paroche kirk quhilk sumtime was the cathedral kirk seat of the Bischop of Argyle, inhabite and manurit with ane castell callit Achaadn or Bell buachier, all full of lyme stanes and mettal and leid ovir lyand foiranent Doward".{{sfn|Munro|1961|pp=29,52}}|group=Note}} Monro's ''[[Description of the Western Isles of Scotland]]'' also mentions Eilean Droineach and Eilean Ramsay. He stated that both were "good for corn and store" and had many "[[Sambucus nigra|Elders]] and thorns" and that Eilean Droineach was the "habitation of Bishops and Nobles in auld times".<ref>Munro (1961) p. 55</ref> However, the view of Munro (1961) is that this last comment more properly applies to the larger "Ramsay Isle".<ref>Munro (1961) p. 117 indicating the idea was offered by Alexander Carmichael.</ref>

Lismore is the home of the [[Clan MacLea]], who claim kinship with the [[Livingstone (name)|Livingstone]] family, and who were recognised by the [[Lord Lyon]] in 2002.<ref>[http://www.clanmclea.co.uk/Warrant.htm "Warant"] {{Webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20070928091006/http://www.clanmclea.co.uk/Warrant.htm |date=28 September 2007 }}. Clanmclea.co.uk Retrieved 2 October 2013.</ref> The ''Plod nam Baran'', which is adjacent to the site of Saint Moluag's church, may be the burial ground of its clan chiefs, or "barons".<ref>Carmichael, Alexander (15 April 1909) ''The Celtic Review'' pp. 356-375 quoted by [http://www.clanmclea.co.uk/Gorm.htm "An Gorm Mor - Lismore in Alba"]. Clanmclea.co.uk Retrieved 2 October 2013.</ref> The current chief, Niall Livingstone of Bachuil, is the "[[Coarb]] of Saint Moluag" and since the 16th century or earlier, the chiefs have been hereditary keepers of the saint's [[crozier]] or pastoral staff known as the ''Bachuil Mòr''.<ref>{{cite web|title=The Official Home of the Clan McLea - the Highland Livingstones|url=http://www.clanlivingstone.com/coarb.htm|work=ClanLivingstone.com|access-date=16 March 2013|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131005011100/http://www.clanlivingstone.com/coarb.htm|archive-date=5 October 2013|url-status=dead}}</ref><ref>[http://www.isleoflismore.com/ "History"]. Isle of Lismore Community/Lismore Computer Group. Retrieved 5 August 2013.</ref>

===18th to 20th centuries===
[[File:St Moluag's Cathedral 20100929 from the south.jpg|thumb|left|[[St Moluag's Cathedral, Lismore|Lismore Parish Church]]]]
In 1707, the [[Acts of Union 1707|Acts of Union]] merged England and Scotland, and Lismore became part of the [[Kingdom of Great Britain]]. Thereafter taxes on [[whisky]] distillation rose dramatically, and much of Scotland's distillation was either shut down or forced underground until the 1823 Excise Act provided a legal framework for the industry.<ref name=whisky>[http://whisky.com/history.html "A Brief History History of Scotch Whisky"]. Whisky.com. Retrieved 4 August 2013.</ref> The remains of at least two illicit stills from this period have been found on Lismore.<ref>Duncan (2006) p. 158</ref>

In 1749 the ruins of the old cathedral were trimmed down from their remaining height, given a roof and turned into a parish church with a bell tower.<ref name=Murr156/>

[[File:Lismore-cross-shore.jpg|thumb|right|[[Celts|Celtic]] cross memorial to Waverley Arthur Cameron]]
In the 19th century [[Lime (material)|lime]] was quarried, particularly on the west coast.<ref name=gaz/> The ruined remains of the quarriers' cottages can still be seen on Eilean nan Caorach and Inn Island,<ref name=gaz/> and old [[lime kiln]]s can be seen at Sailean, Port na Moralachd and Port Ramsay; the last lime was produced in 1934.<ref>[http://www.celm.org.uk/industry.htm "Industry"] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20120717001618/http://www.celm.org.uk/industry.htm |date=17 July 2012 }}. Comann Eachdraidh Lios Mòr. Retrieved 4 August 2013.</ref> The remains of another two kilns can be seen at Kilcheran near [[Lismore Seminary]], a [[Roman Catholic]] [[seminary|divinity school]] that was in operation from 1803 to 1828 at a time when the other inhabitants of the island were staunchly [[Presbyterian]].<ref>[http://www.britishlistedbuildings.co.uk/sc-13342-limekilns-stores-and-pier-port-kilcheran- "Limekilns, Stores and Pier, Port Kilcheran, Lismore, Lismore And Appin"]. British Listed Buildings. Retrieved 4 August 2013.</ref><ref>MacWilliam, Alexander S. (1958) [http://www.blairsaberdeen.co.uk/History.html "The Highland Seminary at Lismore 1803-1828"]. Blairs College/The Innes Review. Retrieved 4 August 2013.</ref>

[[John Stuart McCaig]], the architect of [[McCaig's Tower]] in [[Oban]], was born on Lismore in the 19th century<ref name=HSmith111>Haswell-Smith (2004) p. 111</ref> as was the folklorist [[Alexander Carmichael]].<ref>[http://www.carmichaelwatson.lib.ed.ac.uk/cwatson/en/eacpersonentry/GB-237-EAC-p3332 "Biography - Alexander Archibald Carmichael"]. The Carmichael Watson Project. University of Edinburgh.  Retrieved 5 August 2013.</ref> Overlooking Lismore Bay is a [[Celtic Cross]], a memorial to Waverley Arthur Cameron, the son of [[Duncan Cameron (Scottish inventor)|Duncan Cameron]], inventor of the "Waverley" [[nib (pen)|nib]] [[pen]] and the owner of ''[[The Oban Times]]'' newspaper.<ref name="Waverley Arthur Cameron Memorial" /> Waverley was drowned in 1891 when his [[yacht]] foundered off the coast nearby.<ref name="Waverley Arthur Cameron Memorial">{{cite web|title=Walking Highlands|url=http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/argyll/tirefour-broch.shtml|access-date=17 February 2013|quote=Tirefour Broch and Castle Coeffin from Achnacroish}}</ref>

There have been various other shipwrecks in the vicinity. In 1889 the [[paddle steamer]] ''Mountaineer'' lived up to its name by clambering onto Lady's Rock, the damage to which was still visible in 1995. In 1905 the [[David MacBrayne|MacBrayne]] steamship ''Clydesdale'' hit the same obstruction in a [[Beaufort scale|Force 6 wind]]. The harbour patrol craft ''Appletree'' was sunk in a collision with an [[Royal Air Force Marine Branch|RAF]] [[pinnace (ship's boat)|pinnace]] east of the Lismore light in October 1940 with, according to one report, the loss of two lives. The [[fishing trawler|trawler]] [[Motorised Fishing Vessel|MFV]] ''Solway Firth'' foundered south of this position in 1977.<ref>Baird (1995) pp. 124-26</ref>

Lismore, like other [[Hebrides|Hebridean islands]], has suffered from [[depopulation]] since the 19th century, in large part due to the [[Highland clearances|Clearances]].<ref>Richards (1982) p. 364</ref> In 1798 there were 900 people living on the island and 1399 by 1841. Over the next 40 years the population more than halved to 621. By 1961 there were only 155 residents, and by the time of the 1991 census there were just 140.<ref name=Smith109/> There are various examples of abandoned townships, such as Coille nam Bard.<ref>[http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/argyll/tirefour-broch.shtml "Tirefour Broch and Castle Coeffin from Achnacroish"]. Walk Highlands. Retrieved 10 August 2013.</ref> In the 2001 census, the population had risen slightly to 146, over 45% of whom were over 60 years old, making it the Scottish island with the oldest population.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.scottish-islands-federation.co.uk/population.htm |title=Scotland's Island Populations |publisher=Scottish Islands Federation |access-date=2008-11-01 |archive-date=29 September 2018 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180929102737/http://www.scottish-islands-federation.co.uk/population.htm |url-status=dead }}</ref>

==Present day==
[[File:Lismore Island.jpg|thumb|North Lismore from [[Port Appin]] with the hills of Kingairloch beyond]]
[[File:LismoreFerry-pjt.jpg|thumb|Ferry boat]]
The island's population was recorded as 192 at the [[United Kingdom Census 2011|2011 census]],<ref name=NRS>{{NRS1C}}</ref> an increase of over 30% since 2001.<ref>{{GRO10}}</ref> In 2022 the resident population was recorded as 190.<ref name=RESAS/> The majority of the island's working population are engaged in farming or fishing,<ref name=gaz/><ref>[http://www.isleoflismore.com "Introduction"]. Isle of Lismore Community/Lismore Computer Group. Retrieved 4 August 2013.</ref> and sheep raised on the island have a reputation for quality.<ref>Watson (2006) p. 207</ref> Majority of the land is owner occupied.

Prior to 2007 there was no [[Water supply network|mains supply]] of drinking water on the island, water being supplied instead from wells and springs.<ref name=Murr155/> In that year the then [[Scottish Executive]] announced plans for a mains supply to be provided at a cost of £1&nbsp;million: a pipe was laid under Loch Linnhe and work was to begin on laying about {{convert|10|km|0}} of pipes across Lismore.<ref>[https://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/uk_news/scotland/glasgow_and_west/6396769.stm "Mains water flows to isle school"]. BBC News (26 February 2007). Retrieved 10 August 2013.</ref> However, [[Scottish Water]] later decided to supply water from boreholes instead.<ref>[http://www.isleoflismore.com/lismore_groups/community_council/2008/2008.htm "Lismore Community Council 2008 Information: Minutes of the meeting held at 7pm on Thursday 8th May 2008 at Lismore Public Hall] {{webarchive|url=https://archive.today/20130811101223/http://www.isleoflismore.com/lismore_groups/community_council/2008/2008.htm |date=11 August 2013 }}". Isle of Lismore Community/Lismore Computer Group. Retrieved 10 August 2013.</ref>

The island is linked to the mainland by two ferries: a [[Caledonian MacBrayne]] vehicle ferry making the crossing to [[Oban, Scotland|Oban]] and a council passenger ferry making the shorter crossing from Point, at the north-eastern tip of the island, to [[Port Appin]]. The B8045 is the main road on the island, which it traverses from beyond Kilcheran in the SW, to Point in the NE.<ref name=OS/>

Facilities on Lismore include a shop which is also a post office, and a café. Bicycles may be hired at Point. Explore Lismore provide Land Rover Tours and the island's only taxi service. There is no petrol filling station.<ref>[http://www.isleoflismore.com "Local Information"]. Isle of Lismore Community/Lismore Computer Group. Retrieved 4 August 2013.</ref> In 2001 29% of the population of the island spoke Gaelic<ref name=MacT>Mac an Tàilleir, Iain (2004) {{usurped|1=[https://web.archive.org/web/20071022140555/http://www.linguae-celticae.org/dateien/Gaelic_1901-2001.ppt  ''1901-2001 Gaelic in the Census'']}} (PowerPoint ) Linguae Celticae. Retrieved 1 June 2008.</ref> and maintaining this heritage is one of the aims of the ''Comann Eachdraidh Lios Mòr'', the Lismore Gaelic Heritage Centre.<ref>[http://www.lismoregaelicheritagecentre.org/a-gaelic-heritage/ "A Gaelic Heritage"]. Comann Eachdraidh Lios Mòr. Retrieved 1 August 2013.</ref>

Lismore is part of the multi-member ward of Oban, Lorn and the Isles in the [[Argyll and Bute]] council area.<ref>[http://www.argyll-bute.gov.uk/find-your-councillor-map-argyll-and-bute "Find your councillor - Map of Argyll and Bute"]. Argyll and Bute Council. Retrieved 2 October 2013.</ref> The island is represented by [[Jenni Minto]] of the [[Scottish National Party|SNP]] at the [[Holyrood Parliament]] in Edinburgh who was elected for the [[Argyll and Bute (Scottish Parliament constituency)|Argyll and Bute constituency]] in 2011, and by [[Brendan O'Hara]] of the SNP at the [[Westminster parliament]] in London.

In 2023, the sole shop on the island, which is also the post office, was threatened with closure because the person running it had decided to return to school teaching. The Lismore Community Trust, a local [[charitable organisation]],<ref>{{cite web |url=https://isleoflismore.com/island-groups/community-trust |title=Lismore Community Trust |access-date=26 November 2013}}</ref> organised a campaign to keep it open, and with the help of residents, holiday home owners and tourists raised more than their target of £70,000 to do so.<ref>Topping, Alexandra. [https://www.theguardian.com/uk-news/2023/nov/26/scottish-islanders-save-their-only-shop-thanks-to-community-spirit "Scottish islanders save their only shop thanks to 'community spirit'"]. ''[[The Guardian]]'', 26 November 2023.</ref><ref>Delaney, James. [https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-scotland-glasgow-west-67519246 "Only shop on Lismore saved after community buyout"]. BBC Scotland News, 26 November 2–23.</ref>

==Myths and culture==
"The Piper's Cave" is a local story about a [[Bagpipes|piper]] and his dog. According to Alexander Carmichael, the piper entered the Uamh-Chraidh (the "cave of pain") and intended to exit through the Uamh-an-duine (the "cave of the man"). The sounds of his bagpipes could be heard throughout the [[island]]. When the piping ceased the dog emerged sightless and hairless but the piper was presumed to have drowned in one of the cave's impassable pools and was never seen again. His lament is recorded as:<ref>Carmichael, Alexander (1908-09) [http://www.ambaile.org.uk/en/item/photograph_zoom.jsp?item_id=17693&zoom=3 "The Barons of Bachuill"]. ''The Celtic Review'' '''5'''  p. 357</ref>

:''Mis air airin baidh 'us burrail''&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;I was drowning and howling
:''Measg nan glumag eagalaich''&nbsp;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;&nbsp;Amongst the horrid pools

Another story has St Moluag and St Mulhac conducting a boat race across the Lynn of Lorn with the first to land on Lismore having the right to found a monastery there. Realising that he was going to lose, Moluag cut off his finger and threw it ashore north of the broch of Tirefour, enabling him to claim victory.<ref name=HSmith111/>

The ''[[Book of the Dean of Lismore]]'' was compiled by the titular dean, James MacGregor, in the 15th century. Held in the [[National Library of Scotland]], it is "one of the greatest treasures" of early Gaelic writing. However it was written in [[Fortingall]], Perthshire and its connection with Lismore itself, if any, is uncertain.<ref name="NLS">{{Cite book |url=http://www.nls.uk/collections/manuscripts/collections/book-of-the-dean-of-lismore |title=Book of the Dean of Lismore |publisher=[[National Library of Scotland]]}}</ref>{{refn|Haswell-Smith states that the manuscript was compiled on Lismore<ref name=Smith109/> although it is clear that the National Library, where the book is displayed, believe it was written in Perthshire.<ref name=NLS/>|group=Note}}

==See also==
* [[List of islands of Scotland]]

==References==
;Notes
{{Reflist|group=Note}}
;Footnotes
{{Reflist|30em}}
;General references
{{Refbegin}}
* Baird, Bob (1995) ''Shipwrecks of the West of Scotland''. Glasgow. Nekton Books. {{ISBN|1897995024}}
*Cregeen, E. R. (April 1976) [https://www.jstor.org/stable/25529150 "Review of ''Royal Commission on the Ancient and Historical Monuments of Scotland: Inventory of the Ancient Monuments of Argyll. Vol. II: Lorn''"].  ''[[The Scottish Historical Review]]''. Vol. 55 No. 159. JSTOR. Retrieved 3 August 2013.
*{{cite journal|last=Duffy |first=Seán |title=Irishmen and Islesmen in the Kingdom of Dublin and Man 1052–1171 |journal=[[Ériu (journal)|Ériu]] |pages=93–133 |year=1992|jstor=30007421|issue=43|volume=43}}
* Duncan, P. J. "The Industries of Argyll: Tradition and Improvement" in Omand, Donald (ed.) (2006) ''The Argyll Book''. Edinburgh. Birlinn. {{ISBN|1-84158-480-0}}
* Dwelly, Edward (1911), ''Faclair Gàidhlig gu Beurla le Dealbhan/The Illustrated [Scottish] Gaelic- English Dictionary'' (10th ed.), Edinburgh: Birlinn Limited, {{ISBN|1874744041}}
* {{Cite book |author-link=James E. Fraser (historian) |last=Fraser |first=James E. |title=From Caledonia to Pictland: Scotland to 795 |series=The New Edinburgh History of Scotland |volume=1 |year=2009 |publisher=Edinburgh University Press |location=Edinburgh |isbn=978-0-7486-1232-1 }}
* Gray, J. M. (March 1974) [https://www.jstor.org/stable/621601 "The Main Rock Platform of the Firth of Lorn, Western Scotland"]. ''[[Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers]]''. No. 61. JSTOR/The Royal Geographical Society. Retrieved 1 August 2013.
* {{Haswell-Smith}}
* Hay, Robert (2009) ''Lismore: The Great Garden''. Edinburgh. Birlinn. {{ISBN|9781841585659}}
* Hay, Robert (2023) ''How an Island Lost its People: Improvement, Clearance and Resettlement on Lismore 1830 - 1914'', Birlinn. {{isbn|9781839830204}}
* {{Gaelic Placenames}}
* McCann, S. B. (Oct. 1966) [https://www.jstor.org/stable/621678 "The Main Post-Glacial Raised Shoreline of Western Scotland from the Firth of Lorne to Loch Broom"]. ''[[Transactions of the Institute of British Geographers]]''. No. 39. JSTOR/The Royal Geographical Society. Retrieved 1 August 2013.
* Macdonald, Aidan (1974) "Two major early monasteries of Scottish Dalriata: Lismore and Eigg". Scottish Archaeological Forum '''5''' pp.&nbsp;47–70
* {{Monro}}
* {{cite book|last=Munro|first=R. W.|year=1961|title=Monro's Western Isles of Scotland and Genealogies of the Clans|location=Edinburgh and London|publisher=Oliver and Boyd}}
* Murray, Sir John and Pullar, Laurence (1910) ''Bathymetrical Survey of the Fresh-Water Lochs of Scotland, 1897-1909''. London. Challenger Office.
* [[W.H. Murray|Murray, W.H.]] (1977) ''The Companion Guide to the West Highlands of Scotland.'' London. Collins.
* Richards, Eric (1982) ''The History of the Highland Clearances: Agrarian Transformation and the Elections, 1746-1886''.  Croom Helm. London.
* {{Cite book |last=Sellar |first=William David Hamilton |author-link=David Sellar |contribution=Hebridean sea kings: The successors of Somerled, 1164–1316 |title=Alba: Celtic Scotland in the middle ages |editor1-last=Cowan |editor1-first=Edward J. |editor1-link=Edward J. Cowan |editor2-last=McDonald |editor2-first=Russell Andrew |year=2000 |publisher=Tuckwell Press |isbn=978-1-86232-151-9 }}
* Stephenson, David and Merritt, Jon (2010) [http://www.snh.org.uk/pdfs/publications/geology/argyll.pdf "Argyll and the Islands"]. (pdf) Scottish Natural Heritage. Retrieved 1 August 2013.
*{{cite journal| title=The Bishops of Argyll and the Castle of Achanduin, Lismore, AD 1180-1343| author=Turner, Dennis| pages=645–652| journal=[[Proceedings of the Society of Antiquaries of Scotland]]| volume=128| year=1998| doi=10.9750/PSAS.128.645.652| s2cid=194151483| url=http://archaeologydataservice.ac.uk/archives/view/psas/volumes.cfm| access-date=3 August 2013| format=PDF| doi-access=free}}
* Watson, John N. "Agriculture"  in Omand, Donald (ed.) (2006) ''The Argyll Book''. Edinburgh. Birlinn. {{ISBN|1-84158-480-0}}
{{Refend}}

==External links==
{{Commons category|Lismore}}
{{Wikivoyage|Isle of Lismore|Lismore}}

*[http://www.faclair.com/ ''Am Faclair Beag: An English - Scottish Gaelic dictionary incorporating Dwelly''] Faclair.com. Retrieved 1 December 2012.
*[http://www.isleoflismore.com/ Isle of Lismore Community Website]
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20031220093527/http://www.arch.cam.ac.uk/lismore/ Lismore Landscape Project]
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20120717000635/http://www.celm.org.uk/ Lismore Historical Society]
*[https://web.archive.org/web/20130513000148/http://clanmclea.co.uk/ Clan MacLea/Livingstone Society]
*[http://www.walkhighlands.co.uk/argyll/isle-of-lismore.shtml Walks on the Isle of Lismore]
*[http://tompaterson.co.uk/lismore/lismore.htm Extract from The Isle of Lismore by Hector Macpherson]

{{NSAs in Scotland}}
{{Argyll Islands}}
{{Hebrides}}
{{Islands of Scotland}}
{{Lighthouses of the Northern Lighthouse Board}}
{{Portal bar|Scotland|Scottish Islands|Islands}}
{{Authority control}}
{{Coord|56|31|N|5|30|W|region:GB_type:isle|display=title}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Lismore}}
[[Category:Lismore, Scotland| ]]
[[Category:Islands of Argyll and Bute]]
[[Category:Islands of the Inner Hebrides]]
[[Category:Parishes in Argyll]]