View source for Mount Logan

{{short description|Highest mountain in Canada}}
{{other uses}}
{{Use mdy dates|date=March 2012}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Mount Logan
| photo = Mount Logan.jpg
| photo_caption = Mount Logan from the southeast
| elevation_m = 5959
| elevation_ref = <ref name="peaklist">{{cite web|url=http://www.peaklist.org/WWlists/ultras/canada/yukon.html|title=Yukon, Northwest Territories and Nunavut Ultra-Prominences|website=Peaklist.org|access-date=2015-03-25}}</ref><ref name=opentopomap/>
| prominence_m = 5250
| prominence_ref = <ref name="bivouaclogan"/>
| range = [[Saint Elias Mountains]]
| parent_peak = [[Denali]]<ref name=peakbagger/>
| listing = {{unbulleted list
|    [[List of mountain peaks by prominence|World most prominent peaks]] 6th
|    [[Seven Second Summits]] 3rd
|    [[List of elevation extremes by country|Country high points]] 15th
|    [[List of the highest major summits of North America|North America highest peaks]] 2nd
|    [[List of the most prominent summits of North America|North America prominent peaks]] 2nd
|    [[List of the most isolated major summits of North America|North America isolated peaks]] 22nd
|    [[List of highest mountain peaks of Canada|Canada highest major peaks]] 1st
|    [[List of highest points of Canadian provinces and territories|Canadian subnational high points]] 1st}}
| country = [[Canada]]
| region_type = [[Provinces and territories of Canada|Territory]] | region = [[Yukon]]
| map = Canada Yukon
| map_caption = Location in Yukon, Canada
| label_position = right
| mapframe = yes
| mapframe-zoom = 8
| mapframe-caption = Interactive map of Mount Logan
| coordinates = {{coord|60|34|02|N|140|24|19|W|type:mountain_scale:100000|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = <ref name=cgndb>{{cite cgndb|id=KADTU|name=Mount Logan|access-date=2019-09-06}}</ref>
| topo_map = [[National Topographic System|NTS]] {{Canada NTS Map Sheet|115|C|9}}<ref name=cgndb/>
| first_ascent = 1925 by A.H. MacCarthy et al.
| easiest_route = glacier/snow/ice climb
}}

'''Mount Logan''' ({{IPAc-en|ˈ|l|oʊ|g|ən}} {{respell|LOH|ghən}}) is the highest mountain in Canada and the [[List of the highest major summits of North America|second-highest peak]] in North America after [[Denali]] (McKinley). The mountain was named after Sir [[William Edmond Logan]], a Canadian [[geologist]] and founder of the [[Geological Survey of Canada]] (GSC). Mount Logan is located within [[Kluane National Park and Reserve]]<ref name="parksCanada"/> in southwestern [[Yukon]], less than {{cvt|40|km}} north of the Yukon–[[Alaska]] border. Mount Logan is the source of the [[Hubbard Glacier|Hubbard]] and [[Logan Glacier (Alaska)|Logan]] glaciers. Although many [[shield volcano]]es are much larger in size and mass, Mount Logan is believed to have the largest base circumference of any non-volcanic mountain on Earth,<ref name=uofa2021/> including a [[massif]] with eleven peaks over {{cvt|5000|m}}. Mount Logan is the [[List of mountain peaks by prominence|6th most topographically prominent]] peak on Earth.<ref name="gsc"/><ref name=vmca/>

Due to active [[tectonic uplift]]ing, Mount Logan is still rising in height (approximately {{cvt|0.35|mm}} per year).<ref name=RootsCurrier1993/> Before 1992, the exact elevation of Mount Logan was unknown and measurements ranged from {{cvt|5959|to|6050|m}}. In May 1992, a GSC expedition climbed Mount Logan and fixed the current height of {{cvt|5959|m}} using [[Global Positioning System|GPS]].<ref name="gsc"/><ref name=CanGeo2017/><ref name=cbc_20220605/>

Temperatures are extremely low on and near Mount Logan. On the {{cvt|5000|m}} plateau, air temperature hovers around {{cvt|-45|C}} in the winter and reaches near freezing in summer with the median temperature for the year around {{cvt|-27|C}}. Minimal snow melt leads to a significant [[ice cap]], almost {{cvt|300|m}} thick in certain spots.<ref name=vmca/>

==Peaks of the massif==
The Mount Logan [[massif]] is considered to contain all the surrounding peaks with less than {{cvt|500|m}} of [[Topographic prominence|prominence]], as listed below:

{| class="wikitable sortable"
|-
! align=left| Peak || Height || Prominence || Coordinates
|-
|Main<ref name="bivouaclogan"/> || {{cvt|5959|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="5250">{{cvt|5250|m}}</span> above [[Mentasta Pass]] || {{coord|60|34|2|N|140|24|19|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=(primary peak)}}
|-
|Philippe Peak (West)<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Philippe Peak|id=18352|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5925|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="265">{{cvt|265|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|34|42.6|N|140|26|02.4|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Philippe Peak}}
|-
|Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak)<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Logan East Peak (Stuart Peak)|id=15754|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5898|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="198">{{cvt|198|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|34|31.1|N|140|22|00.1|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Logan East Peak}}
|-
|Houston's Peak<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Houston's Peak|id=15875|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5740|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="100">{{cvt|100|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|35|03.5|N|140|27|20.5|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Houston's Peak}}
|-
|Prospector Peak<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Prospector Peak|id=16893|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5644|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="344">{{cvt|344|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|35|58.9|N|140|30|40.7|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Prospector Peak}}
|-
|AINA Peak<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=AINA Peak|id=15003|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5630|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="130">{{cvt|130|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|36|31.8|N|140|31|48.6|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=AINA Peak}}
|-
|Russell Peak<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Russell Peak|id=16931|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5580|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="80">{{cvt|80|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|35|31.2|N|140|29|08.9|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Russell Peak}}
|-
|Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak)<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Tudor Peak (Logan North Peak)|id=16708|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5559|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="219">{{cvt|219|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|36|58.2|N|140|29|35.4|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Tudor Peak}}
|-
|Saxon Peak (Northeast)<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Saxon Peak|id=16718|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5500|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="80">{{cvt|80|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|37|12.0|N|140|27|57.6|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Saxon Peak}}
|-
|Queen Peak<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Queen Peak|id=16897|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5380|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="160">{{cvt|160|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|36|33.5|N|140|35|12.5|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Queen Peak}}
|-
|Capet Peak (Northwest)<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Capet Peak (Northwest Peak)|id=16721|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|5250|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="240">{{cvt|240|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|38|15.0|N|140|32|41.3|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Capet Peak}}
|-
|Catenary Peak<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Catenary Peak|id=2827|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|4097|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="397">{{cvt|397|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|36|36.0|N|140|17|52.1|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Catenary Peak}}
|-
|Teddy Peak<ref>{{cite bivouac|name=Teddy Peak|id=2831|access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref> || {{cvt|3956|m}}|| <span data-sort-value="456">{{cvt|456|m}}</span> || {{coord|60|32|37.7|N|140|28|41.5|W|type:mountain_region:CA|name=Teddy Peak}}
|}

== Discovery and naming ==
Mount Logan is not readily visible from the surrounding lowlands or the coast, due to its position in the heart of the [[Saint Elias Mountains]], although it can be seen from {{cvt|125|mi|order=flip}} out to sea.<ref name=Lambart1926>{{Cite journal|last=Lambart|first=H.F.|date=1926|title=The Conquest of Mount Logan|url=https://www.jstor.org/stable/1783111|journal=Geographical Journal|volume=LXVIII|issue=1 |pages=1–23|doi=10.2307/1783111 |jstor=1783111 |url-access=subscription}}</ref> Pictures taken across [[Yakutat Bay]] to the south southeast suggest it is visible from near Yakutat. Its first reported sighting was in 1890 by American geologist [[Israel Russell|Israel C. Russell]], during an expedition to nearby [[Mount Saint Elias]], from the crest of the Pinnacle Pass Hills ({{coord|60|9.5|N|140|18|W}}). Russel wrote: "The clouds parting toward the northeast revealed several giant peaks not before seen... One stranger, rising in three white domes far above the clouds, was especially magnificent".<ref>{{Cite web|last=Holdsworth|first=Gerald|title=Mount Logan|url=https://www.thecanadianencyclopedia.ca/en/article/mount-logan|website=The Canadian Encyclopedia}}</ref><ref>{{Cite journal|last=Russell|first=Israel C.|date=1891|title=An Expedition to Mt. Saint Elias, Alaska|url=https://www.gutenberg.org/ebooks/63553|journal=National Geographic Magazine|volume=III|pages=141}}</ref> Russell gave the mountain its present name.

In 1894, Mount Logan's elevation was determined to be about {{cvt|19500|ft|order=flip}}, making it the highest known peak in North America at the time.<ref>{{Cite journal|date=1894|title=Washington Letter|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=R9MBAAAAYAAJ&pg=PA102|journal=Bulletin of the American Geographical Society of New York|volume=26|pages=102–103}}</ref> In 1898, Denali was determined to be higher.<ref name=Stuck1918>{{Cite book|last=Stuck|first=Hudson|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=9c55AAAAMAAJ|title=The Ascent of Denali (Mount McKinley)|date=1918|publisher=Charles Scribner's Sons|pages=159|language=en}}</ref>

==Ascent attempts==

===First ascent===
[[File:Mountain and footprints.JPG|thumb|Mount Logan from the North East, as seen from Kluane Icefield]]
In 1922, a geologist approached the [[Alpine Club of Canada]] with the suggestion that the club send a team to the mountain to reach the summit for the first time. An international team of Canadian, British and American climbers was assembled the following year, initially planning an attempt in 1924 but forced by funding and preparation delays to postpone the trip until 1925. The international team of climbers began their journey in early May, crossing the mainland from the Pacific coast by train. They then walked the remaining {{cvt|200|km}} to within {{cvt|10|km}} of the Logan Glacier where they established base camp. In the early evening of June 23, 1925, Albert H. MacCarthy (leader), H.F. Lambart, [[Allen Carpé]], Norman H. Read, [[William Wasbrough Foster|W.W. Foster]], and Andy Taylor stood on top of the summit for the first time.<ref name=vmca_1925/><ref name="parksCanada2"/>  It had taken them 65 days to approach the mountain from the nearest town ([[McCarthy, Alaska|McCarthy]] across the border in Alaska), reach the summit, and return, with all climbers intact, although some of them suffered severe frostbite.<ref name=sherman>Sherman pp. 1–38</ref>

===Subsequent notable ascents and attempts===
[[File:Mount Logan Knife ridge, east ridge by Christian Stangl (flickr).jpg|thumb|A climber on the knife ridge (east ridge)]]
* 1957 ''East Ridge''. Don Monk, Gil Roberts and three others (US) reached the East Peak on July 19 after a 24-day climb.<ref name=selters1>Selters pp. 170–171</ref><ref name=AAJ1958/>
*1959 ''East Ridge'', second ascent and first [[Alpine style|alpine-style]] ascent, [[Hans Gmoser]] and five others (Canada). Starting from [[Kluane Lake]], they hiked and skied {{cvt|100|mi|order=flip}} to reach the base of the mountain. They climbed the ridge in six days and summited the East Peak on June 12.<ref name=AAJ1960/>
* 1965 ''Hummingbird Ridge'' (South Ridge). Dick Long, [[Allen Steck]], John Evans, [[James Ricker Wilson|Jim Wilson]], Franklin Coale Sr., and Paul Bacon (US) over 30 days, mid-July to Mid-August. [[Fred Beckey]] remarked: "When they got back we just couldn't believe that they had climbed that thing. We didn't think they had a chance".<ref name="selters2">Selters pp. 179-182</ref> This climb is featured in ''[[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America]]''. As of 2023, the climb remains unrepeated.
* 1967, July, the first traverse of Mt. Logan was made by Vin Hoemann and Will Harrison, starting at the "HubSew" ridge over the main summit. Team members Alexander Bittenbinder, David Shaw, and Edward Ward joined them via the East Ridge.<ref name=AAJ1968/>
* 1967, August, the first ski descent of the mountain was made in two stages by [[Daniel C. Taylor]] main summit to the Kluane glacier <ref>Arctic Institute of North America Newsletter, November 1967</ref>
* 1977 ''Warbler Ridge''. Dave Jones, Frank Baumann, Fred Thiessen, Jay Page (all from Canada) and Rene Bucher (Swiss) in 22 days.<ref name=scott>Scott pp. 319–320</ref>
* 1978 '' West Ridge''. Steve Davis (WA), Jon Waterman, George Sievewright, Roger Hurt (NH). Climbed ridge in 27 days "capsule-style".<ref name=AAJ1979/>
* 1979 ''Northwest Ridge'' Michael Down (CA), Paul Kindree, John Howe, Reid Carter and John Wittmayer climbed to the summit over 22 days, topping out on June 19.<ref name=AAJ1980_md/>
* 1979 ''South-Southwest Ridge''. Raymond Jotterand (CA), Alan Burgess, Jim Elzinga and John Lauchlan reached the summit after 15 days of climbing on June 30 and July 1.<ref name=AAJ1980_rj/>
* 1986 First winter ascent by Todd Frankiewicz, Willy Hersman, Steve Koslow, George Rooney, [[Vernon Tejas]] and John Bauman via the ''King’s Trench Route'' on March 16.<ref name=AAJ1987/><ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.cnfaic.org/wp-content/uploads/2019/09/ADN_Todd_Frankiewicz.pdf |title=Skier Took One Risk Too Many, Friends Say |last=Medred |first=Craig  |date=1988-12-08 |website=Chugach National Forest Avalanche Information Center |publisher=United States Department of Agriculture |access-date= 2022-10-31}}</ref>
* 1987 David Cheesmond and Catherine Freer disappeared while attempting to repeat the ''Hummingbird Ridge''.<ref name=AAJ1988/> Their bodies were not found until 2000. Due to the remoteness of ''Hummingbird Ridge'' and more crucially the precarious spot where the bodies are located, they have not been able to be recovered.<ref>{{Cite web |title=Whitehorse Daily Star: Climbers found |url=https://www.whitehorsestar.com/History/climbers-found |access-date=2025-03-20 |website=Whitehorse Daily Star |language=en}}</ref>
* 1992 June 6, an expedition sponsored by the Royal Canadian Geographic Society confirmed the height of Mount Logan using GPS. The leader was Michael Schmidt, with Lisel Currie, Leo Nadeay, Charlie Roots, J-C. Lavergne, Roger Laurilla, [[Patrick Morrow]], Karl Nagy, Sue Gould, Alan Björn, Lloyd Freese, Kevin McLaughlin and Rick Staley.<ref name=CanGeo2017/>
* 2005 late May. Three climbers from the [[Vancouver]]-based [[North Shore Rescue]] team became stranded on the mountain. A joint operation by Canadian and American forces rescued the three climbers and took them to [[Anchorage, Alaska]] for treatment of [[frostbite]].<ref name="acc"/>
* 2017 May 23. 15-year-old Naomi Prohaska reached the summit, the youngest person to do so. She was part of a team led by her father.<ref name=cbc20170604>{{cite web |title=B.C. teen becomes youngest climber to reach Canada's highest peak |url=http://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/british-columbia/naomi-prohaska-mount-logan-youngest-ever-1.4145075 |access-date=June 4, 2017|publisher=CBC News |date=June 4, 2017}}</ref>
* 2018 June 14. The first all-US veteran team reached the summit. The six-person team was unguided and part of the US non-profit organization Veterans Expeditions.<ref>{{cite web |title=US Veterans Summit Logan 2018 |url=https://www.mountainproject.com/forum/topic/116353338/us-veterans-summit-logan-2018 |access-date=Jan 10, 2019|publisher=Mountain Project |date=Jan 10, 2019}}</ref>

[[File:Mount Logan 3D version 1.gif|thumb|upright=1.1|Mount Logan 3D view]]

== Climbing rules ==
In January 2020, due to the cost of search and rescue operations in recent years, [[Parks Canada]] announced new rules for climbing Mount Logan:
* No solo expeditions
* No winter expeditions (which also includes all of Kluane National Park)
* Climbers must have insurance to cover the cost of search and rescue.<ref name=cbc_new_rules>{{cite news|url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/north/new-rules-climbers-mount-logan-kluane-1.5428705|title=As rescue costs soar, Parks Canada sets new rules for climbing Canada's highest peak|publisher=CBC News|date=January 16, 2020|access-date=2022-01-14}}</ref>
There had been eight rescue missions in the previous seven years in Kluane National Park. Each mission typically cost between $60,000 to $100,000 CAD which is paid for by Canadian taxpayers. A Parks Canada spokesperson said the new rules are to help reduce the financial burden to taxpayers.<ref name=cbc_new_rules/>

==Proposed renaming==
Following the death of [[Pierre Trudeau]], former [[Prime Minister of Canada]], in 2000, then Prime Minister [[Jean Chrétien]], a close friend of Trudeau, proposed renaming the mountain Mount Trudeau.<ref name="cbc"/><ref name="gam"/>
However opposition from [[Yukon]]ers, mountaineers, [[geologist]]s, Trudeau's political critics, and many other Canadians forced the plan to be dropped.<ref name=GlobeMail2000/> A mountain in the [[Premier Range]] of [[British Columbia]]  was named [[Mount Pierre Elliott Trudeau]] instead.<ref name=rvt2006/>

==In popular culture==
''[[X-Men]]'' writer [[Chris Claremont]] was inspired by Mount Logan for the adopted name of the superhero [[Wolverine (character)|Wolverine]]; Claremont said in an interview that "the idea was the tallest mountain being the name of the shortest character".<ref name="Slashfilm20240511">{{cite web |url=https://www.slashfilm.com/1576282/why-is-wolverine-called-logan/ |title=Here's Why Wolverine Is Called Logan |last=Meenan |first=Devin |date=2024-05-11 |website=Slashfilm |publisher= |access-date=2024-05-14}}</ref>

==See also==
{{Portal|North America|Canada|Mountains}}
*[[List of mountain peaks of North America]]
**[[List of mountain peaks of Canada]]
***[[List of highest points of Canadian provinces and territories]]
***[[List of Ultras in Canada]]
*[[List of elevation extremes by country]]
{{clear}}

==References==
{{reflist|30em|refs=
ref=<ref name=AAJ1958>
  {{cite aaj | article_id = 12195803100/Mount-LoganEast-Peak
   | title = Mount Logan – East Peak | year = 1958
   | last1=Collins|first1=D.|last2=Roberts|first2=G.
   | access-date=June 5, 2022}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=AAJ1960>
  {{cite aaj | article_id = 12196013000
   | title=Canadian Mount Logan Expedition | year = 1960
   | last=Gmoser|first=Hans | access-date=June 5, 2022|links=off}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=AAJ1968>
  {{cite aaj |title=A Logan Traverse | article_id=12196804600
   | last = Harrison | first = William D.
   | year = 1968 | volume = 16 | issue = 1 | pages = 44-50
   | access-date=Apr 1, 2024|links=off}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=AAJ1979>
  {{cite aaj | article_id = 12197911800
   | title = Mount Logan's West Ridge | year = 1979
   | last = Hirt | first = Roger | access-date = February 15, 2019|links=off}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=AAJ1980_md>
  {{Cite aaj | article_id = 12198055901
   | last = Down  | first = Michael
   | title = Mount Logan: First Ascent of Northwest Ridge
   | department = Climbs and Expeditions | volume = 22  | issue = 53  | page = 559
   | location = New York, NY, USA  | year = 1980| issn = 0065-6925 |links=off}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=AAJ1980_rj>
  {{Cite aaj | article_id = 12198055700
   | last = Jotterand  | first = Raymond
   | title = Mount Logan: South-Southwest Ridge
   | department = Climbs and Expeditions  | volume = 22  | issue = 53  | pages = 557–559
   | location = New York, NY, USA  | year = 1980 | issn = 0065-6925|links=off}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=AAJ1987>
  {{cite aaj | article_id = 12198718401/North-America-Canada-Yukon-Territory-Mount-Logan-First-Winter-Ascent
   | title=North America, Canada, Yukon Territory, Mount Logan, First Winter Ascent | year = 1987
   | last = Bauman | first = John  | access-date=April 13, 2022|links=off}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=AAJ1988>
  {{cite aaj | article_id = 12198833500
   | title=David Cheesmond, 1952-1987 | year = 1988
   | last=Lowe | first=George H. | access-date=June 5, 2022|links=off}}</ref>
ref=<ref name="bivouaclogan">{{cite bivouac |name=Mount Logan |id=14 |access-date=July 15, 2007}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=CanGeo2017>
  {{cite web | title = How scientists solved the mystery of Mount Logan's true height
   | publisher = Canadian Geographic | date = May 4, 2017 | orig-year = 1992
   | url = https://www.canadiangeographic.ca/article/how-scientists-solved-mystery-mount-logans-true-height
   | access-date = February 15, 2019}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=cbc_20220605>
  {{cite news | title = High tech: How mountaineers used early GPS on Canada's tallest peak
   | publisher = CBC News | date= June 5, 2022 | author = Tukker, Paul
   | url = https://www.cbc.ca/newsinteractives/features/mount-logan-1992 | access-date = June 5, 2022}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=GlobeMail2000>
  {{cite news | title = Government backtracks on renaming Mount Logan
   | work= Globe and Mail | date = October 17, 2000
   | url = https://www.theglobeandmail.com/news/national/government-backtracks-on-renaming-mount-logan/article25473135/
   | access-date = February 15, 2019}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=peakbagger>{{cite peakbagger |pid=541 |name=Mount Logan |access-date=August 27, 2010}}</ref>
ref=<ref name="parksCanada">{{cite web| publisher=Parks Canada| title = Kluane National Park and Reserve of Canada
  | url=http://www.pc.gc.ca/pn-np/yt/kluane/index.aspx| access-date =August 1, 2010 }}</ref>
ref=<ref name="gsc">{{cite web
 |publisher    = Geological Survey of Canada
 |title        = Mount Logan
 |url          = http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/earth-sciences/hist/logan/6987
 |access-date  = April 12, 2007
 |url-status   = dead
 |archive-url  = https://web.archive.org/web/20120921022054/http://www.nrcan.gc.ca/earth-sciences/hist/logan/6987
 |archive-date = September 21, 2012
 |df           = mdy-all
}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=vmca>{{cite web
  | publisher=Virtual Museum of Canada | title = Mount Logan: Canadian Titan
  | url=http://www.virtualmuseum.ca/Exhibitions/Logan/ | access-date=September 18, 2008}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=vmca_1925>{{cite web
  | publisher=Virtual Museum of Canada | title = Mount Logan: 1925 Climb
  | url=http://www.virtualmuseum.ca/Exhibitions/Logan/ | access-date=September 18, 2008
  | archive-url =https://web.archive.org/web/20090601095538/http://www.virtualmuseum.ca/Exhibitions/Logan/en/index.php?/md/climb/1925climb
  | archive-date=2009-06-01}}</ref>
ref=<ref name="parksCanada2">{{cite web
 |publisher    = Parks Canada
 |title        = Conquering Mount Logan
 |url          = http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/cseh-twih/archives2_E.asp?id=323
 |access-date  = April 12, 2007
 |archive-url  = https://web.archive.org/web/20171212063441/http://www.pc.gc.ca/apps/cseh-twih/archives2_E.asp?id=323
 |archive-date = December 12, 2017
 |url-status   = dead
 |df           = mdy-all
}}</ref>
ref=<ref name="cbc">{{cite news
  | publisher=CBC News
  | title=Mount Logan to become Mount Trudeau
  | url=https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/mount-logan-to-become-mount-trudeau-1.241503
  | date=October 5, 2000 | access-date=April 12, 2007
  | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20071016163258/http://cbc.ca/canada/story/2000/10/05/mountain001005.html
  | archive-date = October 16, 2007}}</ref>
ref=<ref name="gam">{{cite news
  | work=Globe and Mail
  | title=Highest peak to be Trudeau Mountain
  | url=https://www.theglobeandmail.com/series/trudeau/peak.html
  | date=October 5, 2000 | access-date=April 12, 2007
  | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070930031511/http://www.theglobeandmail.com/series/trudeau/peak.html <!-- Bot retrieved archive -->
  | archive-date = September 30, 2007}}</ref>
ref=<ref name="acc">{{cite web
  | publisher=Alpine Club of Canada - Edmonton section
  | title = ACC Accident report for May 2005
  | url=http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1231
  | archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20071016144421/http://alpineclub-edm.org/accidents/accident.asp?id=1231
  | archive-date= October 16, 2007
  | access-date =April 12, 2007 }}</ref>
ref=<ref name=opentopomap>{{cite opentopomap|Mount Logan|60.56710|-140.40535|2021-11-07|12}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=RootsCurrier1993>
  {{cite journal | journal = Paper 93-1A: Current Research, Part a Cordillera and Pacific Margin
   | title = Geodetic and geological observations from the 1992 Mount Logan expedition, Yukon Territory
   | last1 = Roots | first1 = Charlie F. | last2 = Currie | first2 = Lisel D. | page = 22
   | publisher = Geological Survey of Canada | year = 1993 | doi = 10.4095/134186 | doi-access = free}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=rvt2006>
  {{cite web | url = http://www.robsonvalleytimes.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=520&Itemid=67
   | title = Former PM honoured | publisher = The Robson Valley Times | date = 15 June 2006 | url-status = dead
   | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20070927094859/http://www.robsonvalleytimes.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=520&Itemid=67
   | archive-date= 2007-09-27}}</ref>
ref=<ref name=uofa2021>
  {{cite web | title = Researchers summit Mount Logan to document 30,000 years of climate history
   | publisher = University of Alberta | last = Brown | first = Michael | date = June 11, 2021
   | url = https://www.ualberta.ca/folio/2021/06/researchers-summit-mount-logan-to-document-30000-years-of-climate-history.html
   | access-date=June 5, 2022}}</ref>
ref=<!-- <ref name=soc>
  {{cite web | url = https://www.summitsofcanada.net/canatrek/summits/yukon.html
  | title = The Yukon - Mt. Logan | publisher = Summits of Canada
  | access-date = 2020-01-26}}</ref> -->
ref=<!-- <ref name=soc>
  {{cite web | url = https://www.worldmountains.info/2024/03/exploring-majesty-of-mount-logan.html
  | title = Exploring the Majesty of Mount Logan: Canada's Tallest Peak | publisher = World Mountains
  | access-date = 2024-03-19}}</ref> -->
}}

==Bibliography==
* {{cite book
  | last = Irving | first = R. L. G. | author-link = Robert Lock Graham Irving
  | title= Ten Great Mountains | year= 1940 | location = London | publisher = J. M. Dent & Sons}} [The climbing history up to 1939 of Mount Logan, [[Snowdon]], [[Ben Nevis]], [[Ushba]], [[Mount Everest|Everest]], [[Nanga Parbat]], [[Kangchenjunga|Kanchenjunga]], the [[Matterhorn]], [[Aoraki / Mount Cook]] and [[Mont Blanc]].]
* {{Cite book | last1 = Roper | first1 = Steve | last2 = Steck | first2 = Allen | author-link2 = Allen Steck
  | title = [[Fifty Classic Climbs of North America]]  | publisher = Sierra Club Books  | year = 1979  | location = San Francisco, CA, USA
  | pages = 179–182 | isbn = 0-87156-292-8 }}
* {{cite book | last = Scott | first = Chic | title = Pushing the Limits, The Story of Canadian Mountaineering | publisher = Rocky Mountain Books | year = 2000 | location = Calgary, Alberta, Canada | url = https://archive.org/details/pushinglimitssto0000scot | access-date = December 27, 2013 | isbn = 0-921102-59-3 | url-access = registration }}
* {{Cite book
  | last = Selters  | first = Andy | title = Ways to the Sky
  | publisher = American Alpine Club Press  | year = 2004  | location = Golden, CO, USA
  | isbn = 0-930410-83-1
  }}
* {{Cite book
  | last = Sherman  | first = Paddy  
  | title = Cloud Walkers - Six Climbs on Major Canadian Peaks  | publisher = Macmillan of Canada  | year = 1965
  | location = Toronto, Canada | id = Lib Congress Cat# 65-25069  }}

==External links==
{{sister project links|auto=1}}

* {{cite peakware|id=155|name=Mount Logan}}
* [http://www.ii.uib.no/~petter/mountains/5000mtn/logan.html 2009 Trip Report]

{{NA highest}}{{NA prominent}}{{NA isolated}}
{{Seven Second Summits}}
{{Yukon}}
{{Authority control}}{{Highest points of Canadian Provinces & Territories}}{{Highest points of North America}}{{DEFAULTSORT:Logan, Mount}}
[[Category:Five-thousanders of Yukon]]
[[Category:Saint Elias Mountains]]
[[Category:Lists of coordinates]]
[[Category:Kluane National Park and Reserve]]
[[Category:Seven Second Summits]]
[[Category:Highest points of countries]]