View source for Nuptse

{{Short description|Mountain in Nepal}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Nuptse
| native_name = {{native_name|xsr|{{bo-textonly|ནུབ་རྩེ།}} नुबचे}}
| photo = Nuptse, Nepal, Himalayas.jpg
| photo_caption = Nuptse from [[Kala Patthar]]
| elevation_m   = 7861
| elevation_ref = 
| prominence_m  = 319
| prominence_ref=
| parent_peak = 
| listing = [[List of mountains in Nepal|Mountains of Nepal]]
| translation = West Peak
| language = [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan]]
| location = [[Solukhumbu District]], [[Sagarmatha Zone]], [[Nepal]]
| range = [[Mahalangur Himal]], [[Himalayas]]
| coordinates = {{coord|type:mountain |format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| coordinates_ref = 
| topo = 
| mapframe = no
| map_image= {{OSM Himalaya|lat_d=28.0|long_d=86.9|zoom=7}}
| first_ascent = 1961 by a British team led by Joe Walmsley
| easiest_route = snow/ice climb
}}
{{infobox Chinese
|c=努子峰
|p=
}}

'''Nuptse''' or '''Nubtse''' ([[Sherpa language|Sherpa]]: {{bo-textonly|ནུབ་རྩེ།}} नुबचे, Wylie: Nub rtse, {{CJKV|c=努子峰}}) is a [[mountain]] in the [[Khumbu]] region of the [[Mahalangur Himal]], in the [[Nepal]]ese [[Himalayas]]. It lies {{Cvt|2|km|mi|abbr=on}} WSW of [[Mount Everest]].  The main peak, Nuptse I at an elevation of {{Cvt|7,861|m|ft|abbr=on}}, was first climbed on May 16, 1961, by [[Dennis Davis (climber)|Dennis Davis]] and [[Sherpa people|Sherpa]] Tashi.<ref name=aj_1961/><ref name=aaj_1962/><ref name=cc_1962/> After a hiatus of almost 20 years, Nuptse again became the objective of mountaineers, with important routes being put up on its west, south, and north faces.

== Name ==
Nuptse is [[Standard Tibetan|Tibetan]] for "west peak", as it is the western segment of the [[Lhotse]]-Nuptse [[massif]].<ref>{{Cite web |date=2003 |title=Nuptse |url=https://www.summitpost.org/nuptse/150615 |access-date=4 November 2023 |website=summitpost.org}}</ref>

== Geography ==
Nuptse lies {{Cvt|2|km|mi|abbr=on}} WSW of Mount Everest. Due to the structure of the Everest [[Massif]], Nuptse blocks Everest's view for much of the surrounding region. It is a dramatic peak when viewed from the south or west, and it towers above the base camp for the standard [[Mount Everest#Routes|south col route]] on Everest.  However, it is not a particularly independent peak: its [[topographic prominence]] is only {{convert|319|m|ft|0|abbr=on}}.  Hence it is not ranked in the [[list of highest mountains]].{{citation needed|date=November 2023}}

The main Nuptse ridge contains 7 summits:
<div style="margin-left:3em">
{| class=wikitable floatright style=text-align:right
! align=center|Summit || Elevation || Latitude (N) || Longitude (E)
|-
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse I        ||  {{cvt|7,861|m}} ||  27°57′59″ ||  86°53′24″
|-
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse II       ||  {{cvt|7,827|m}} ||  27°57′52″ ||  86°53′34″
|-
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Shar I   ||  {{cvt|7,804|m}} ||  27°57′41″ ||  86°53′47″
|-
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Nup I    ||  {{cvt|7,784|m}} ||  27°58′05″ ||  86°53′08″
|-
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Shar II  ||  {{cvt|7,776|m}} ||  27°57′39″ ||  86°53′55″
|-
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Nup II   ||  {{cvt|7,742|m}} ||  27°58′06″ ||  86°52′54″
|-
|style="text-align:left"; |Nuptse Shar III ||  {{cvt|7,695|m}}||  27°57′30″ ||  86°54′42″
|}
</div>
{{Himalaya annotated imagemap|caption=Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the [[International Space Station]]. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)|align=none}}
<!--
<imagemap>
File:Himalaya_annotated.jpg|center|thumb|300px|Southern and northern climbing routes as seen from the [[International Space Station]]. (The names on the photo are links to corresponding pages.)
rect 58 14 160 49 58 14 160 49 58 14 160 49 [[Chomo Lonzo]]
rect 200 28 335 52 [[Makalu]]
rect 378 24 566 45 [[Everest]]
rect 188 581 920 656 [[Tibetan Plateau]]
rect 250 406 340 427 [[Rong River]]
rect 333 149 409 186 [[Changtse]]
rect 550 284 677 303 [[Rongbuk Glacier]]
rect 478 196 570 218 [[North Face (Everest)]]
rect 237 231 346 267 [[East Rongbuk Glacier]]
rect 314 290 536 309 [[North Col north ridge route]]
rect 531 79 663 105 [[Lhotse]]
rect 582 112 711 130 [[Nuptse|Nubtse]]
rect 603 232 733 254 [[South Col|South Col route]]
rect 716 165 839 206 [[Gyachung Kang]]
rect 882 147 967 183 [[Cho Oyu]]
rect 1 1 999 661 [[File:Himalaya annotated.jpg]]

desc bottom-left
</imagemap>
{{-}}
-->

== Climbing ==
[[File:Everest nubtse.jpg|thumb|left|Nuptse on the right, Everest to the left]]
[[File:Nuptse-fromChukhungRi.jpg|thumb|Nuptse from [[Chukhung Ri]]]]
Nuptse was first climbed in 1961 and a few times thereafter.
* 1961 - First ascent of the North Ridge on May 16 by [[Dennis Davis (climber)|Dennis Davis]] and Sherpa Tashi as part of a British expedition led by Joe Walmsley. Tashi was the first human to set foot on the summit as Davis waited to take photos.  Davis followed closely after Tashi.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Davis |first=D. |date=1961 |title=Nuptse: Part II Summit |url=http://www.himalayanclub.org/hj/23/1/nuptse/#point2 |journal=[[The Himalayan Journal]] |volume=23 |issue=1}}</ref>  On May 17, other members of the same expedition reached the summit: [[Chris Bonington]], Les Brown, James Swallow and Pemba Sherpa.<ref name="aj_1961" /><ref name="cc_1962" /> 
* 1975 - The Joint British Army-Royal Nepalese Army Nuptse Expedition in an attempt to be the second team atop Nuptse ended in tragedy with the loss of four climbers to falls: Major G.F. Owens and Captain R.A. Summerton, Lieutenant D.A.J. Brister and Rifleman Pasang Tamang.<ref name=aaj_1976>{{Cite aaj |title=Nuptse Tragedy |article_id=12197651300|first=Jonathan W.|last=Fleming|year=1976|volume=20|issue=2|pages=513|access-date=2024-06-13}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=The Joint British Army Mountaineering Association and Royal Nepalese Army Expedition |url=https://www.mef.org.uk/expeditions/british-nepalese-army-himalayan |publisher=Mount Everest Foundation |access-date=27 January 2025}}</ref>
* 1979 - Ascent of the North Ridge on October 19 by [[Georges Bettembourg]], [[Doug Scott]], [[Alan Rouse]] and Brian Hall.<ref name="AlpinistSummer23">{{Cite journal |last=Blanchard |first=B. |date=1 June 2023 |title=A Mountain Apart |journal=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist Magazine]] |volume=Summer 2023 |issue=82 |pages=50–75}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Hall |first=Brian |date=2022-07-21 |title=Epic Descent From Nuptse |url=https://www.climbing.com/people/worst-day-of-our-lives-epic-descent-from-north-ridge-of-nuptse/ |access-date=2024-06-13 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}</ref>  
* 1984 - First ascent of the West Ridge by Yvan Estienne, Rémi Roux, ''et al''., an expedition led by Raymond Renaud.<ref name=aaj_1985/>
* 1994 - First ascent of the south pillar of Nuptse Shar I by Frenchmen Michel Fauquet and Vincent Fine, who were stopped by the wind on the summit ridge {{Convert|300|m|ft|abbr=on}} from the summit. The climb was nominated for a [[Piolets d'Or]].<ref>{{Cite web |title=Piolets d'Or - 1992 - 2021 |url=https://pioletsdor.net/index.php/en/1992-2021 |access-date=2024-06-13 |website=pioletsdor.net}}</ref>
* 1997 - Nuptse - Nup II (7742 m) - on top: Tomaž Humar, Janez Jeglič
* 2008 - Opening of the south face by Stéphane Benoist and Patrice Glairon-Rappaz; nominated for the Piolets d'Or in 2008.
* 2017 - Frédéric Degoulet, Benjamin Guigonnet and Hélias Millerioux open a route on the south face.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Franz |first=D. |date=2017 |title=French team completes new route on Nuptse's south face |url=http://www.alpinist.com/doc/web17f/newswire-new-route-on-nuptse-south-face |access-date=4 November 2023 |website=[[Alpinist (magazine)|Alpinist.com Newswire]]}}</ref>
* 2023 - On 8 May, a team of 3 climbers from the US and 6 Sherpas were the first to reach the summit in the year.  It is reported that at least 65 climbers in 6 teams have obtained permits for Nuptse.<ref>{{Cite news |date=8 May 2023 |title=HG climbers make season's first summit on Nuptse |work=[[The Himalayan Times]] |url=https://thehimalayantimes.com/nepal/hg-climbers-make-seasons-first-summit-on-nuptse |access-date=5 November 2023}}</ref>

==In culture==
In 1987,  Sally McCoy, Director of Equipment at [[The North Face]], an American [[Outdoor recreation|outdoor recreation products]] company, was part of the Snowbird Everest Expedition. This inspired The North Face to create outerwear named after peaks and glaciers of the region.  In 1992, the company introduced the Nuptse Jacket. It featured a novel baffle construction to reduce shifting of the down and to increase warmth.<ref>{{Cite web |last=Kollat |first=M. |date=30 November 2022 |title=The North Face relaunches the exact replica of its most famous jacket |url=https://www.t3.com/news/the-north-face-relaunches-the-exact-replica-of-its-most-famous-jacket |access-date=4 November 2023 |website=[[T3 (magazine)|T3]]}}</ref>  The Nuptse jacket in bright colours was popular in [[New York City]] in the 1990s, especially among school kids and [[Rapping|rappers]].<ref>{{Cite web |last=Takanashi |first=L. |date=31 October 2018 |title=How The North Face Took Over ’90s New York |url=https://www.thecut.com/2018/10/the-north-face-new-york-style.html |access-date=5 November 2023 |website=[[The Cut (website)|The Cut]]}}</ref> The Nuptse line of outdoors clothing has expanded to over 60 items in 2023.<ref>{{Cite web |date=2023 |title=The North Face Nuptse Collection of Jackets, Vests, and More |url=https://www.thenorthface.com/en-us/explore/nuptse |access-date=4 November 2023 |website=[[The North Face]]}}</ref>

== See also ==
* [[Ueli Steck]], Swiss alpinist who died falling from Nuptse

==References==
{{Commons category}}
{{reflist|refs=
<ref name=aaj_1962>
  {{cite aaj | article_id=12196209900| title = Nuptse | department = Feature Article
   | author = Walmsley, Joe | year=1962 | volume=13 | issue=1 | pages=99 | access-date=2025-06-14}}</ref>
<ref name=aaj_1985>
  {{cite aaj | article_id=12198526601| title = Nepal, Nuptse Northwest Summit, Northwest Ridge | department = Climbs and Expeditions
   | author1 = Cheney, Michael J. | author2 = Hawley, Elizabeth| year=1985 | volume=27 | issue=59 | pages=266 | links=off | access-date=2025-06-14}}</ref>
<ref name=aj_1961>
  {{cite journal | title = Nuptse
   | author = Walmsley, Joe | pages = 209–234
   | journal = [[Alpine Journal]] | publisher = Alpine Club | year = 1961
   | url = http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1961_files/AJ%201961%20209-234%20Walmsley%20Nuptse.pdf
   | accessdate = 29 April 2014}}</ref>
<ref name=cc_1962>
  {{cite journal | title = Nuptse | author = Bonington, Chris | authorlink = Chris Bonington
   | journal = Journal | publisher = The Climber's Club | year = 1962 | pages = 306–312
   | volume = XIII | number = 3
   | url = http://www.climbers-club.co.uk/journal/original/1962%20Journal-p306-312.pdf
   | accessdate = 29 April 2014}}</ref>
}}

==External links==
* [https://web.archive.org/web/20050420122932/http://www.peakware.com/encyclopedia/peaks/addapeak662.htm Nuptse on Peakware] - photos
* Günther Seifferth, [http://www.himalaya-info.org/PDF-Dateien/Nuptse.pdf Nuptse] at himalaya-info.org.
{{Mount Everest}}

{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Mountains of Nepal]]
[[Category:Seven-thousanders of the Himalayas]]