View source for Reinhold Messner

{{short description|Italian mountaineer, adventurer and explorer (born 1944)}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=October 2021}}
{{Infobox climber
| image = 2024-02-26-Reinhold Messner-Hart aber fair-2539.jpg
| caption = Messner in 2024
| name = Reinhold Messner
| nationality = Italian
| birth_date = {{birth date and age|df=y|1944|9|17}}
| birth_place = [[Brixen|Brixen (Bressanone)]], South Tyrol, Italy
| death_date = 
| death_place = 
| typeofclimber = {{flatlist|
*[[Alpine climbing]]
*[[Big wall climbing]]
*[[Traditional climbing]]
}}
| highestgrade = 
| knownfor = First to climb all 14 [[eight-thousander]]s, first to climb all 14 eight-thousanders without supplemental oxygen, and first to climb Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen
| firstascents = {{Plainlist|
* Agnér northeast face 
* [[Nanga Parbat]] Rupal face
* [[Heiligkreuzkofel]] middle pillar
* [[Marmolada]] south face
* [[Yerupaja]] east face
* [[Yerupaja Chico]]
}}
| namedroutes = 
| majorascents = First solo ascent of [[Mount Everest]] and first ascent without supplemental oxygen
| website    = {{official website|www.reinhold-messner.de}}
}}
'''Reinhold Andreas Messner''' ({{IPA|de|ˈʁaɪnhɔlt ˈmɛsnɐ|lang}}; born 17 September 1944) is an Italian [[Climber (mountaineering)|climber]], explorer, and author from the German-speaking province of [[South Tyrol]]. He made the first solo ascent of [[Mount Everest]] and, along with [[Peter Habeler]], the first ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen. He was the first person to climb all 14 [[eight-thousanders]], doing so without supplementary oxygen. Messner was the first to cross [[Antarctica]] and [[Greenland]] with neither snowmobiles nor dog sleds<ref name=ant>{{Cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=dFG5CIb2R5QC&q=messner+greenland | title=Antarctica: Both Heaven and Hell| isbn=9780898863055| last1=Messner| first1=Reinhold| year=1991| publisher=Mountaineers}}</ref> and also crossed the [[Gobi Desert]] alone.<ref name=gobi>{{Cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=q-XcMgEACAAJ&q=Gobi+–+Die+Wüste+in+mir+messner | title=Gobi: Il deserto dentro di me| isbn=9788897173236| last1=Messner| first1=Reinhold| year=2013 | publisher=Ed. Mare Verticale|language=it}}</ref> He is widely considered to be the greatest mountaineer of all time.<ref name=goat>{{Cite web |url=https://achievement.org/achiever/reinhold-messner/ |title=Reinhold Messner, greatest mountaineer on earth - Academy of achievement |access-date=2023-04-27 | date=December 1, 2021}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Clarke |first=Owen |date=14 February 2023 |title=The 9 Best Mountaineers of All Time |url=https://climbinghouse.com/best-mountaineers-all-time/ |access-date=2023-04-27 |website=Climbing House}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=https://mountainsforeverybody.com/why-reinhold-messner-is-the-greatest-living-human |title=Why Reinhold Messner Is The Greatest Living Human |date=11 November 2019 |access-date=2023-04-27}}</ref>

From 1999 to 2004, Messner served as a [[member of the European Parliament]] for [[North-East Italy (European Parliament constituency)|north-east Italy]], as a member of the [[Federation of the Greens]].

Messner has published more than 80 books about his experiences as a climber and explorer. In 2010, he received the 2nd [[Piolet d'Or]] Lifetime Achievement Award.  In 2018, he received jointly with [[Krzysztof Wielicki]] the [[Princess of Asturias Award]] in the category of Sports.

==Early life and education==
[[File:GianAngelo Pistoia - Reinhold Messner - Foto 1.TIF|thumb|Reinhold Messner in June 2002]]
Messner was born to a [[German-speaking]] family in St. Peter, [[Villnöß]], near [[Brixen]] in [[South Tyrol]], which is part of [[Italy]]. According to his sister, his delivery was difficult as he was a large baby and the birth took place during an air raid. His mother Maria (1913–1995) was the daughter of a shop owner and 4 years older than her husband. His father Josef (1917–1985) was drafted to serve the German army and participated in World War II on the Russian front. After the war, he was an auxiliary teacher until 1957, when he became the director of the local school. Messner was the second of nine children – Helmut (born 1943), [[Günther Messner|Günther]] (1946–1970), Erich (born 1948), Waltraud (born 1949), Siegfried (1950–1985), Hubert (born 1953), Hansjörg (born 1955) and Werner (born 1957), and grew up in modest means.<ref>{{Cite journal |last=Kratzer |first=Clemens  |date=2012 |title=Messner – der Film |journal=Alpin – das BergMagazin |volume=9 |pages=9 |issn=0177-3542}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://woman.brigitte.de/leben-lieben/familie/waltraud-kastlunger-1015037/1.html |title=Waltraud Kastlunger und ihre Brüder |author=Lisa Stocker |website=BRIGITTE-woman.de |date=9 April 2009 }}{{Dead link|date=September 2025 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref>

Messner spent his early years climbing in the [[Alps]] and falling in love with the [[Dolomites]]. His father was strict and sometimes severe with him.{{citation needed|date=September 2019}} He led Reinhold to his first summit at the age of five.<ref name=goat/>

When Messner was 13, he began climbing with his brother [[Günther Messner|Günther]], age 11. By the time Reinhold and Günther were in their early twenties, they were among Europe's best climbers.<ref name="natgeo112006">{{cite news |first=Caroline|last=Alexander |title=Murdering the Impossible |work=National Geographic|date=November 2006 |url=http://www7.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0611/feature1/index.html |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20061114073511/http://www7.nationalgeographic.com/ngm/0611/feature1/index.html |url-status=dead |archive-date=14 November 2006 }}</ref>

Since the 1960s, Messner, inspired by [[Hermann Buhl]], was one of the first and most enthusiastic supporters of [[alpine style]] mountaineering in the [[Himalayas]], which consisted of climbing with very light equipment and a minimum of external help. Messner considered the usual [[expedition style]] (which he dubbed "siege tactics") disrespectful toward nature and mountains.{{citation needed|date=September 2019}}

==Career==
Before his first major Himalayan climb in 1970, Messner had made a name for himself mainly through his achievements in the Alps. Between 1960 and 1964, he led over 500 ascents, most of them in the [[Dolomites]].{{citation needed|date=May 2012}} In 1965, he climbed a new [[Direttissima (climbing)|direttissima]] route on the north face of the [[Ortler]].{{citation needed|date=September 2019}} A year later, he climbed the Walker Spur on the [[Grandes Jorasses]] and ascended the Rocchetta Alta di Bosconero. In 1967, he made the first ascent of the northeast face of the Agnér and the first winter ascents of the Agnér north face and [[Furchetta]] north face.{{citation needed|date=September 2019}}

In 1968, he achieved further firsts: the [[Heiligkreuzkofel]] middle pillar and the direct south face of the [[Marmolada]]. In 1969, Messner joined an [[Andes]] expedition, during which he succeeded, together with [[Peter Habeler]], in making the first ascent of the [[Yerupaja]] east face up to the summit ridge and, a few days later, the first ascent of the {{convert|6121|m|ft|adj=mid|-high}} Yerupaja Chico.<ref>{{cite book|last=Messner|first=Reinhold|year=1979|title=Aufbruch ins Abenteuer. Der berühmteste Alpinist der Welt erzählt|publisher=Bastei Lübbe|location=Bergisch Gladbach|language=de|pages=122–133}}</ref> He also made the first solo ascent of the [[Droites]] north face, the Philipp-Flamm intersection on the [[Monte Civetta|Civetta]] and the south face of Marmolada di Rocca. As a result, Messner won the reputation of being one of the best climbers in Europe.

In 1970, Messner was invited to join a major Himalayan expedition that was going to attempt the unclimbed [[Rupal face]] of [[Nanga Parbat]]. The expedition, which was the major turning point in his life, turned out to be a tragic success. Both he and his brother Günther reached the summit but Günther died two days later on the descent of the Diamir face. Reinhold lost seven toes, which had become badly frostbitten during the climb and required amputation.<ref name="natgeo112006"/><ref>{{Cite magazine |date=3 November 2006 |title=Die Füße des Extrembergsteigers |url=https://www.stern.de/panorama/reinhold-messner-die-fuesse-des-extrembergsteigers-3321802.html |magazine=Stern |language=de}}</ref> Reinhold was severely criticized for persisting on this climb with the less experienced Günther.<ref>{{cite web |last=Rhoads |first=Christopher |title=The controversy surrounding Reinhold Messner |website=The Wall Street Journal |date=11 December 2003 |url=http://www.backcountry.net/arch/pct/0312/msg00095.html |access-date=7 February 2008 |archive-date=23 September 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150923181352/http://www.backcountry.net/arch/pct/0312/msg00095.html |url-status=dead }}</ref> The 2010 movie ''[[Nanga Parbat (film)|Nanga Parbat]]'' by [[Joseph Vilsmaier]] is based on his account of the events.<ref>{{cite news| url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2010/jan/19/nanga-parbat-film-controversy | work=The Guardian | location=London | title=Nanga Parbat film restarts row over Messner brothers' fatal climb | first=Kate | last=Connolly | date=19 January 2010 | access-date=22 May 2010}}</ref>

While Messner and Peter Habeler were noted for fast ascents in the Alps of the [[Eiger]] North Wall, standard route (10 hours) and Les Droites (8 hours), his 1975 [[Gasherbrum I]] first ascent of a new route took three days. This was unheard of at the time.{{citation needed|date=September 2019}}

In the 1970s, Messner championed the cause for ascending Mount Everest without supplementary oxygen, saying that he would do it "by fair means" or not at all.{{sfn|Krakauer|1997}} In 1978, he reached the summit of Everest with Habeler.{{sfn|Krakauer|1997|p=153}} This was the first time anyone had been that high without supplemental oxygen and Messner and Habeler achieved what certain doctors, specialists, and mountaineers thought impossible. He repeated the feat, without Habeler, from the [[Tibet]]an side in 1980, during the monsoon season. This was Everest's first solo summit.

[[File:Achttausender Neu.png|thumb|upright=1.35|Location of the eight-thousanders]]
In 1978, he made a solo ascent of the Diamir face of [[Nanga Parbat]]. In 1986, Messner became the first to complete all fourteen [[eight-thousander]]s (peaks over 8,000 metres above sea level).{{sfn|Krakauer|1997|p=61}}

Messner has crossed [[Antarctica]] on skis, together with fellow explorer [[Arved Fuchs]].<ref name=ant/>  He has written over 80 books<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.reinhold-messner.de/de/buecher/ |title=Reinhold Messner - Bücher |publisher=Reinhold-messner.de |access-date=11 February 2022 }}</ref> about his experiences, a quarter of which have been translated. He was featured in the 1984 film ''[[The Dark Glow of the Mountains]]'' by [[Werner Herzog]]. From 1999 to 2004, he held political office as a [[Member of the European Parliament]] for the Italian Green Party ([[Federazione dei Verdi]]). He was also among the founders of [[Mountain Wilderness]], an international NGO dedicated to the protection of mountains worldwide.{{citation needed|date=September 2019}}

In 2004 he completed a {{convert|2000|km|mi|adj=on}} expedition through the [[Gobi Desert]].<ref name=gobi/> In 2006, he founded the [[Messner Mountain Museum]].

== Expeditions ==

===Ascents above 8,000m ===
Messner was the first person to climb all fourteen eight-thousanders in the world and without supplemental oxygen. His climbs were also all amongst the first 20 ascents for each mountain individually. Specifically, these are:
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! Year
! Peak 
! Remarks
|-
| 1970 || [[Nanga Parbat]] ({{convert|8125|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || First ascent of the unclimbed Rupal Face and first traverse of the mountain by descending along the unexplored Diamir Face with his brother [[Günther Messner|Günther]]. Prior to this ascent, Messner had not previously visited the [[Greater Ranges]] and the greatest altitude he had been to was on the expedition to the Andes in 1969.<ref>{{cite book | title = Free Spirit: A Climber's Life  | publisher = Mountaineers Books  | year = 1998  | location = Seattle | isbn = 978-0-89886-573-8 |page = 121}}</ref>
|-
| 1972 || [[Manaslu]] ({{convert|8163|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || First ascent of the unclimbed South-West Face<ref>{{cite news|url=http://www.alpinejournal.org.uk/Contents/Contents_1974_files/AJ%201974%2015-20%20Nairz%20Manaslu.pdf|title=Manaslu 1972|last=Nairsz|first=Wolfgang|year=1974|website=alpinejournal.org.uk}}</ref> and first ascent of Manaslu without supplemental oxygen.<ref name="8000ers.com">{{cite web|url=http://www.8000ers.com/cms/en/8000ers-mainmenu-205.html|title=General Info|website=8000ers.com}}</ref>
|-
| 1975 || [[Gasherbrum I]] ({{convert|8080|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || First ascent without supplemental oxygen with [[Peter Habeler]].<ref name="8000ers.com"/>
|-
| 1978 || [[Mount Everest]] ({{convert|8848|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Nanga Parbat]] ({{convert|8125|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen (with [[Peter Habeler]]).<ref name="8000ers.com"/>{{page needed|date=September 2019}}<br />Nanga Parbat: first solo ascent of an eight-thousander from base camp. He established a new route on the Diamir Face, which has since then never been repeated.<ref>{{Cite book | url=https://books.google.com/books?id=_j46vgAACAAJ&q=simone+moro+nanga | title=Nanga: Fra rispetto e pazienza, come ho corteggiato la montagna che chiamavano assassina| isbn=9788817090230| last1=Moro| first1=Simone| year=2016 | publisher=Rizzoli|language=it}}</ref>{{page needed|date=September 2019}}
|-
| 1979 || [[K2]] ({{convert|8611|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || Ascent partially in alpine style with [[Michael Dacher]] on the [[Abruzzi Spur]].
|-
| 1980 || [[Mount Everest]] ({{convert|8848|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || First to ascend alone and without supplementary oxygen – from base camp to summit – during the [[monsoon]]. He established a new route on the North Face.
|-
| 1981 || [[Shishapangma]] ({{convert|8027|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || Ascent with [[Friedl Mutschlechner]].
|-
| 1982 || [[Kangchenjunga]] ({{convert|8586|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Gasherbrum II]] ({{convert|8034|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Broad Peak]] ({{convert|8051|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || New route on Kangchenjunga's North Face, partially in alpine style with Friedl Mutschlechner.<br />Gasherbrum II and Broad Peak: Both ascents with Sher Khan and Nazir Sabir.<br />Messner becomes the first person to climb three 8000er in one season.<br />Also a failed summit attempt on Cho Oyu during winter.
|-
| 1983 || [[Cho Oyu]] ({{convert|8188|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || Ascent with [[Hans Kammerlander]] and Michael Dacher on a partially new route.
|-
| 1984 || [[Gasherbrum I]] ({{convert|8080|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Gasherbrum II]] ({{convert|8034|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || First traverse of two eight-thousanders without returning to base camp (with Hans Kammerlander).
|-
| 1985 || [[Annapurna]] ({{convert|8091|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Dhaulagiri]] ({{convert|8167|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || First ascent of Annapurna's unclimbed North-West Face.<br />Both ascents with Hans Kammerlander.
|-
| 1986 || [[Makalu]] ({{convert|8485|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Lhotse]] ({{convert|8516|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) || Makalu: Ascent with Hans Kammerlander and Friedl Mutschlechner, Lhotse: Ascent with Hans Kammerlander.<br />Messner becomes the first person to climb all 14 eight-thousanders.
|}

=== Other expeditions since 1970 ===
[[File:Reinhold Messner 3.jpg|thumb|Reinhold Messner in 1985 in Pamir Mountains.]]
* 1971&nbsp;– Journeys to the mountains of [[Iran]], [[Nepal]], [[New Guinea]], [[Pakistan]] and East Africa;
* 1972&nbsp;– [[Noshaq]] ({{convert|7492|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) in the [[Hindu Kush]];
* 1973&nbsp;– [[Marmolada]] West Pillar, first climb; [[Furchetta]] West Face, first climb;
* 1974&nbsp;– [[Aconcagua]] south wall ({{convert|6959|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), partially new "South Tyrol Route"; [[Eiger]] North Face with [[Peter Habeler]] in 10 hours (a record that stood for 34 years, for a roped party);
* 1976&nbsp;– [[Denali]] ({{convert|6193|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), "Face of the Midnight Sun", first climb;
* 1978&nbsp;– [[Kilimanjaro]] ({{convert|5895|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), "Breach Wall", first climb;
* 1979&nbsp;– [[Ama Dablam]] rescue attempt; first climbs in the [[Hoggar Mountains]], Africa;
* 1981&nbsp;– [[Chamlang]] ({{convert|7317|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) Centre Summit-North Face, first climb;
* 1984&nbsp;– Double-[[Traverse (climbing)|Traverse]] of [[Gasherbrum II]] and [[Gasherbrum I|I]] with [[Hans Kammerlander]];
* 1985&nbsp;– Tibet Transversale with [[Kailash]] exploration;
* 1986&nbsp;– Crossing of East [[Tibet]]; [[Mount Vinson]] ({{convert|4897|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}, [[Antarctic]]), on 3 December 1986, thus becoming the first person to complete [[Seven Summits]] without the use of supplemental oxygen on Mount Everest;<ref name="7summits">[http://www.carstenszpapua.com/7summits-history.html History of 7 Summits project&nbsp;– who was first?]</ref>
* 1987&nbsp;– [[Bhutan]] trip; [[Pamir Mountains|Pamir]] trip;
* 1988&nbsp;– [[Yeti]]-[[Tibet]] solo expedition;
* 1989–1990&nbsp;– [[Antarctic]] crossing (over the [[South Pole]]) on foot, {{convert|2800|km|mi|abbr=off|adj=on}} trek with [[Arved Fuchs]];
* 1991&nbsp;– [[Bhutan]] crossing (east-west); "Around [[South Tyrol]]" as a positioning exercise, where he was peripherally involved in the [[Ötzi]] find, being among the groups who inspected the mummy on-site the day after its initial discovery;
* 1992&nbsp;– Ascent of [[Chimborazo (volcano)|Chimborazo]] ({{convert|6310|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}); crossing of [[Taklamakan]] Desert in [[Xinjiang]];
* 1993&nbsp;– Trip to [[Dolpo]], [[Mustang (kingdom)|Mustang]] and [[Manang]] in Nepal; [[Greenland]] longitudinal crossing (diagonal) on foot, {{convert|2200|km|mi|abbr=off|adj=on}} trek;
* 1994&nbsp;– Cleaning project in North [[India]]/[[Gangotri]], [[Shivling]] region ({{convert|6543|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}); to [[Rwenzori Mountains|Ruwenzori]] ({{convert|5119|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Uganda]];
* 1995&nbsp;– [[Arctic]] crossing ([[Siberia]] to Canada) failed; trip to [[Belukha]] ({{convert|4506|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Altai Mountains]]/[[Siberia]];
* 1996&nbsp;– Trip through East [[Tibet]] and to [[Kailash]].
* 1997&nbsp;– Trip to [[Kham]] (East Tibet); small expedition into [[Karakoram]]; filming on the [[Ol Doinyo Lengai]] (holy mountain of the [[Maasai people|Maasai]]) in Tanzania
* 1998 &nbsp;– Trip to the [[Altai Mountains]] (Mongolia) and to [[Puna de Atacama]] (Andes)
* 1999&nbsp;– Filming: [[San Francisco Peaks]], Arizona (Holy mountain of [[Navajo]]); trip into the [[Thar Desert]]/[[India]]
* 2000&nbsp;– Crossing of [[South Georgia]] on the [[Shackleton Route]]; [[Nanga Parbat]] Expedition; filming on [[Mount Fuji]]/Japan for the [[ZDF]] series ''Wohnungen der Götter'' (~"Homes of the Gods")
* 2001 &nbsp;– [[Dharamsala]] and foothills of the [[Himalayas]]/[[India]]; ZDF series ''Wohnungen der Götter'' on [[Gunung Agung]]/[[Bali]]
* 2002&nbsp;– In the "International Year of the Mountains" visit by mountaineers into the [[Andes]] and ascent of [[Cotopaxi]] ({{convert|5897|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}), [[Ecuador]]
* 2003&nbsp;– [[Trekking]] to [[Mount Everest]] (fiftieth anniversary of the first successful climb); trip to [[Franz Joseph Land]]/[[Arctic]]; on 1 October opening of the "Günther Mountain School" in the [[Diamir Valley]] on [[Nanga Parbat]]/[[Pakistan]]
* 2004&nbsp;– Longitudinal crossing of the [[Gobi Desert]] ([[Mongolia]]) on foot, about {{convert|2000|km|mi|abbr=off|adj=on}} trek<ref name=gobi/>
* 2005&nbsp;– Trip to the [[Dyva Nomads]] in Mongolia; "time journey" around [[Nanga Parbat]]/[[Pakistan]]

==Climbs==
=== Nanga Parbat ===
Reinhold Messner took a total of five expeditions to [[Nanga Parbat]]. In 1970 and 1978 he reached the summit (in 1978 solo); in 1971, 1973 and 1977, he did not. In 1971 he was primarily looking for his brother's remains.

=== Rupal Face 1970 ===
[[File:Northern Areas 38b commons.jpg|thumb|Rupal face of [[Nanga Parbat]].]]
In May and June 1970, Messner took part in the [[Nanga Parbat]] South Face expedition led by [[Karl Herrligkoffer]], the objective of which was to climb the as yet unclimbed Rupal Face, the highest rock and ice face in the world. Messner's brother, Günther, was also a member of the team. On the morning of 27 June, Messner was of the view that the weather would deteriorate rapidly, and set off alone from the last high-altitude camp. Surprisingly his brother climbed after him and caught up to him before the summit. By late afternoon, both had reached the summit of the mountain and had to pitch an emergency [[bivouac shelter]] without tent, sleeping bags and stoves because darkness was closing in.

The events that followed have been the subject of years of legal actions and disputes between former expedition members, and have still not been finally resolved. What is known now is that Reinhold and Günther Messner descended the Diamir Face, thereby achieving the first traverse of Nanga Parbat and second traverse of an eight-thousander after Mount Everest in 1963. Reinhold arrived in the valley six days later with severe frostbite, but survived. His brother, Günther, however died on the Diamir Face—according to Reinhold Messner on the same descent, during which they became further and further separated from each other. As a result, the time, place and exact cause of death is unknown. Messner said his brother had been swept away by an avalanche.

In June 2005, after an unusual heat wave on the mountain, the body of his brother was recovered on the Diamir Face, which seems to support Messner's account of how Günther died.<ref name="outdoors">{{cite web|title=Nanga Parbat Body Ends Messner Controversy |publisher=Outdoors Magic |date=19 August 2005 |url=http://outdoorsmagic.com/news/nanga-parbat-body-ends-messner-controversy/ |access-date=14 March 2014}}</ref><ref name="connolly"/>

The drama was turned into a film ''[[Nanga Parbat (film)|Nanga Parbat]]'' (2010) by [[Joseph Vilsmaier]], based on the memories of Reinhold Messner and without participation from the other former members of the expedition. Released in January 2010 in cinemas, the film was criticised by the other members of the team for telling only one side of the story.<ref name="connolly">{{cite web|last=Connolly |first=Kate |title=Nanga Parbat film restarts row over Messner brothers' fatal climb |website=The Guardian |date=19 January 2010 |url=https://www.theguardian.com/world/2010/jan/19/nanga-parbat-film-controversy |access-date=14 March 2014}}</ref>

Because of severe frostbite, especially on his feet—seven toes were amputated—Messner was not able to climb quite as well on rock after the 1970 expedition. He therefore turned his attention to higher mountains, where there was much more ice.<ref name="ava">{{cite book|last=Messner|first=Reinhold|year=2002|title=Überlebt – Alle 14 Achttausender mit Chronik|publisher=BLV|location=Munich|language=de}}</ref>

=== Solo climb in 1978 ===
On 9 August 1978, after three unsuccessful expeditions, Messner reached the summit of [[Nanga Parbat]] again via the Diamir Face.

=== Manaslu ===
In 1972, Messner succeeded in climbing [[Manaslu]] on what was then the unknown south face of the mountain, of which there were not even any pictures. From the last high-altitude camp he climbed with Frank Jäger, who turned back before reaching the summit. Shortly after Messner reached the summit, the weather changed and heavy fog and snow descended. Initially Messner became lost on the way down, but later, heading into the storm, found his way back to the camp, where Horst Fankhauser and Andi Schlick were waiting for him and Jäger. Jäger did not return, although his cries were heard from the camp. Orientation had become too difficult. Fankhauser and Schlick began to search for him that evening, but lost their way and sought shelter at first in a snow cave. Messner himself was no longer in a position to help the search. The following day, only Horst Fankhauser returned. Andi Schlick had left the snow cave during the night and disappeared. Thus, the expedition had to mourn the loss of two climbers. Messner was later criticised for having allowed Jäger go back down the mountain alone.<ref name="ava"/>

=== Gasherbrum I ===
Together with [[Peter Habeler]], Messner made a second ascent of [[Gasherbrum I]] on 10 August 1975, becoming the first man ever to climb more than two eight-thousanders. It was the first time a mountaineering expedition succeeded in scaling an eight-thousander using [[alpine style]] climbing. Until that point, all fourteen 8000-meter peaks had been summitted using the [[expedition style]], though [[Hermann Buhl]] had earlier advocated "West Alpine Style" (similar to "capsule" style, with a smaller group relying on minimal fixed ropes).

Messner reached the summit again in 1984, this time together with [[Hans Kammerlander]]. This was achieved as part of a double ascent where, for the first time, two eight-thousander peaks (Gasherbrum I and II) were climbed without returning to base camp. Again, this was done in alpine style, i.e. without the pre-location of stores.<ref Name="ava"/> Filmmaker [[Werner Herzog]] accompanied the climbers along the {{convert|150|km|mi|adj=on}} approach to base camp, interviewing them extensively about why they were making the climb, if they could say; they could not. Messner became emotional on camera when he recalled having to tell his mother about his brother's death.

It took a week for the two climbers to summit both peaks and return to camp, after which Herzog interviewed them again. His documentary, ''[[The Dark Glow of the Mountains]]'', with some footage the two climbers shot during the expedition on portable cameras, was released the following year.

=== Mount Everest ===
[[File:20110810 North Face of Everest Tibet China Panoramic.jpg|thumb|[[Mount Everest]] north face.]]

On 8 May 1978, Messner and Habeler reached the summit of [[Mount Everest]], becoming the first men to climb it without using supplemental oxygen. Before this ascent, it was disputed whether this was possible at all. Messner and Habeler were members of an expedition led by Wolfgang Nairz along the [[southeast ridge]] to the summit. Also on this expedition was [[Reinhard Karl]], the first German to reach the summit, albeit with the aid of supplemental oxygen.

Two years later, on 20 August 1980, Messner again stood atop the highest mountain in the world, without supplementary oxygen. For this solo climb, he chose the [[northeast ridge]] to the summit, where he crossed above the [[North Col]] in the North Face to the [[Norton Couloir]] and became the first man to climb through this steep gorge to the summit. Messner decided spontaneously during the ascent to use this route to bypass the exposed northeast ridge. Before this solo ascent, he had not set up a camp on the mountain.<ref name="ava"/>

===K2===
[[File:K2 2006b.jpg|thumb|[[K2]] seen from [[Concordia (Karakoram)|Concordia]].]]
For 1979, Messner was planning to climb [[K2]] on a new direct route through the South Face, which he called the "Magic Line". Headed by Messner, the small expedition consisted of six climbers: Italians Alessandro Gogna, Friedl Mutschlechner and [[Renato Casarotto]]; the Austrian, Robert Schauer; and Germans [[Michael Dacher]], journalist, Jochen Hölzgen, and doctor Ursula Grether, who was injured during the approach and had to be carried to Askole by Messner and Mutschlechner. Because of avalanche danger on the original route and time lost on the approach, they decided to climb via the [[Abruzzi Spur]]. The route was equipped with fixed ropes and high-altitude camps, but no hauling equipment (''Hochträger'') or bottled oxygen was used. On 12 July, Messner and Dacher reached the summit; then the weather deteriorated and attempts by other members of the party failed.<ref>{{cite book|last1=Messner|first1=Reinhold|last2=Gogna|first2=Alessandro|title=K2 – Berg der Berge|publisher=BLV|location=Munich|year=1980|language=de}}</ref><ref name="amg">{{cite book|last1=Messner|first1=Reinhold|title=Alle meine Gipfel|publisher=Herbig|location=Munich|year=1983|language=de}}</ref>

=== Shishapangma ===
During his stay in Tibet as part of his Everest solo attempt, Messner explored [[Shishapangma]]. A year later, Messner, with Friedel Mutschlechner, Oswald Oelz, and Gerd Baur, set up a base camp on the north side. On 28 May, Messner and Mutschlechner reached the summit in very bad weather; part of the climb involving [[ski mountaineering]].<ref name="ava"/><ref name="amg"/>

=== Kangchenjunga ===
[[File:Kangchenjunga PangPema.JPG|thumb|250px|left|Kangchenjunga.]]
In 1982, Messner wanted to become the first climber ever to scale three eight-thousanders in one year. He planned to climb [[Kangchenjunga]], then [[Gasherbrum II]] and [[Broad Peak]].{{citation needed|date=September 2019}}

Messner chose a new variation of the route up the north face. Because there was still a lot of snow, Messner and Mutschlechner made very slow progress. In addition, the difficulty of the climb forced the two mountaineers to use fixed ropes. Finally, on 6 May, Messner and Mutschlechner stood on the summit. There, Mutschlechner suffered frostbite to his hands, and later to his feet as well. While bivouacking during the descent, the tent tore away from Mutschlechner and Messner, and Messner also fell ill. He was suffering from [[amoebic liver abscess]], making him very weak. He made it back to base camp only with Mutschlechner's help.<ref name="ava"/>

=== Gasherbrum II ===
After his ascent of Kangchenjunga, Mutschlechner flew back to Europe because his frostbite had to be treated and Messner needed rest. Thus the three mountains could not be climbed as planned. Messner was cured of his amoebic liver abscess and then travelled to [[Gasherbrum II]], but could not use the new routes as planned. In any case, his climbing partners, Sher Khan and [[Nazir Sabir]], would not have been strong enough. Nevertheless, all three reached the summit on 24 July in a storm. During the ascent, Messner discovered the body of a previously missing Austrian mountaineer, whom he buried two years later at the G I – G II traverse.<ref name="ava"/>

=== Broad Peak ===
[[File:Broad Peak in July 2006.jpg|thumb|Broad Peak.]]
In 1982, Messner scaled [[Broad Peak]], his third eight-thousander. At the time, he was the only person with a permit to climb this mountain; he came across [[Jerzy Kukuczka]] and [[Wojciech Kurtyka]], who had permits to climb K2, but used its geographic proximity to climb Broad Peak illegally. In early descriptions of the ascent, Messner omitted this encounter, but he referred to it several years later. On 2 August, Messner was reunited with [[Nazir Sabir]] and Khan again on the summit. The three mountaineers had decamped and made for Broad Peak immediately after their ascent of Gasherbrum II. The climb was carried out with a variation from the normal route at the start.<ref name="ava"/>

=== Cho Oyu ===
In the winter of 1982–83, Messner attempted the first winter ascent of [[Cho Oyu]]. He reached an altitude of about {{convert|7500|m|ft|abbr=in}}, when great masses of snow forced him to turn back. This expedition was his first with Hans Kammerlander. A few months later, on 5 May, he reached the summit via a partially new route together with Kammerlander and Michael Dacher.<ref name="ava"/>

=== Annapurna ===
In 1985, Messner topped out on [[Annapurna]]. Using a new route on the northwest face, he reached the summit with Kammerlander on 24 April. Also on the expedition were Reinhard Patscheider, Reinhard Schiestl and Swami Prem Darshano, who did not reach the summit. During Messner and Kammerlander's ascent, the weather was bad and they had to be assisted by the other three expedition members during the descent due to heavy snowfall.<ref name="ava"/>

=== Dhaulagiri ===
[[File:Dhaulagiri - view from aircraft.jpg|thumb|Messner's attempt on the summit in 1977 failed on [[Dhaulagiri]]'s South Face.]]

Messner had already attempted [[Dhaulagiri]] in 1977 and 1984, unsuccessfully. In 1985 he finally summited. He climbed with Kammerlander up the normal route along the northeast ridge. After only three days of climbing they stood on the summit in a heavy storm on 15 May.<ref name="ava"/>

=== Makalu ===
Messner tried climbing [[Makalu]] four times. He failed in 1974 and 1981 on the South Face of the south-east ridge. In winter 1985–1986 he attempted the first winter ascent of Makalu via the normal route. Even this venture did not succeed.<ref name="ava"/> Not until February 2009 was Makalu successfully climbed in winter by [[Denis Urubko]] and [[Simone Moro]].

In 1986, Messner returned and succeeded in reaching the summit using the normal route with Kammerlander and Mutschlechner. Although they had turned back twice during this expedition, they made the summit on the third attempt on 26 September. During this expedition, Messner witnessed the death of [[Marcel Rüedi]], for whom the Makalu was his 9th eight-thousander. Rüedi was on the way back from the summit and was seen by Messner and the other climbers on the descent. Although he was making slow progress, he appeared to be safe. The tea for his reception had already been boiled when Rüedi disappeared behind a snow ridge and did not reappear. He was found dead a short time later.<ref name="ava"/>

=== Lhotse ===
Messner's last climb of an 8,000m peak was Lhotse in 1986. To reach the summit that year and before winter broke, they took a direct helicopter flight from the Makalu base camp to the Lhotse base camp.{{citation needed|date=September 2019}} Messner and Kammerlander had to contend with a strong wind in the summit area. With his Lhotse climb, Messner became the first person to climb all eight-thousanders. 
Since this ascent, Messner has never climbed another eight-thousander.<ref name="ava" /> 

In 1989, Messner led a European expedition to the South Face of the mountain. The aim was to forge a path up the as-yet-unclimbed face. Messner himself did not want to climb any more. The expedition was unsuccessful.<ref>{{cite book|last=Kammerlander|first=Hans|title=Bergsüchtig|publisher=Piper|location=Munich|language=de|year=2001|edition=6|page=81ff}}</ref>

===The Seven Summits===
In 1985 [[Richard Bass]] first postulated and achieved the mountaineering challenge [[Seven Summits]], climbing the highest peaks of each of the seven continents. Messner suggested another list (the ''Messner'' or ''Carstensz'' list) replacing [[Mount Kosciuszko]] with [[Indonesia]]'s [[Puncak Jaya]], or Carstensz Pyramid ({{convert|4884|m|ft|0|abbr=in|disp=or}}). From a mountaineering point of view the ''Messner'' list is the more challenging one. Climbing Carstensz Pyramid has the character of an expedition, whereas the ascent of Kosciuszko is an easy hike. In May 1986 [[Pat Morrow (mountaineer)|Pat Morrow]] became the first person to complete the ''Messner'' list, followed by Messner himself when he climbed [[Mount Vinson]] in December 1986 to become the second.<ref name="7summits"/>

==World-first records==
Messner is listed seven times in the ''[[Guinness World Records|Guinness Book of Records]]''. All of his achievements are classed as "World's Firsts" (or "Historical Firsts"). A "World's First" is the highest category of any Guinness World Record, meaning the ownership of the title never expires.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://guinnessworldrecords.com/Account/Login?ReturnUrl=%2fsearch%2fapplicationrecordsearch%3fterm%3d%2522Reinhold%2bMessner%2522%26contentType%3drecord&term=%22Reinhold+Messner%22&contentType=record|title=Official Guinness Registry|website=Guinness World Records|language=en-GB|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180529204702/https://guinnessworldrecords.com/Account/Login?ReturnUrl=%2fsearch%2fapplicationrecordsearch%3fterm%3d%2522Reinhold%2bMessner%2522%26contentType%3drecord&term=%22Reinhold+Messner%22&contentType=record|archive-date=29 May 2018|url-status=dead|access-date=29 May 2018}}</ref> As of 2021, Messner is the second highest record holder of "World's Firsts" (after Icelandic oceanic rower [[Fiann Paul]], who has 13). Messner's world firsts are:

* First ascent of [[Manaslu]] without supplementary oxygen
* First solo summit of Everest
* First ascent of Everest and K2 without supplementary oxygen
* First ascent of the top three highest mountains without supplementary oxygen
* First 8,000-metre mountain hat-trick
* First ascent of Everest without supplementary oxygen
* First ascent of [[Gasherbrum I]] without supplementary oxygen

Guinness World Records changed the status of First ascent of all fourteen 8000 metre plus peaks following research by German Himalayan chronicler, Eberhard Jurgalski, which suggested Messner did not reach the true summit of Annapurna in 1985.<ref>{{Cite web |title=First true-summit ascent of the 8,000ers |url=https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/746531-first-true-summit-ascent-of-the-8-000ers |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20250629185641/https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/746531-first-true-summit-ascent-of-the-8-000ers |archive-date=29 June 2025 |access-date=2025-08-02 |website=Guinness World Records |language=en |url-status=live }}</ref> 

== Record controversy ==
For nearly 37 years, Guinness World Records (GWR) recognized Messner as the first person to climb all 14 of the world’s mountains over 8,000 m; starting in June 1970 and concluding on 16 October 1986. Messner, however, never claimed the record as many top mountaineers have stated they do not chase such records not only because that is not the purpose of their endeavors but also because of the unavoidable and natural imprecision in proving many of these records.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web |last=Stern |first=Jake |date=2023-10-04 |title=Guinness Has Revoked Reinhold Messner's 8,000er Record. Climbers Protest. |url=https://www.climbing.com/news/guinness-reinhold-messner-record/ |access-date=2025-07-08 |website=Climbing |language=en-US}}</ref><ref name=":1">{{Cite web |title=Reinhold Messner stripped of world records {{!}} Climber Magazine |url=https://www.climber.co.uk/news/reinhold-messner-stripped-of-world-records/ |access-date=2025-07-08 |website=www.climber.co.uk |language=en}}</ref><ref name=":2">{{Cite web |last=Clash |first=Jim |title=Ed Viesturs: 'Reinhold Messner Was First, Always Will Be' |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/jimclash/2023/09/28/ed-viesturs-reinhold-messner-was-first-always-will-be/ |access-date=2025-07-08 |website=Forbes |language=en}}</ref><ref name=":3">{{Cite web |date=2023-09-28 |title=Viesturs: "Messner war Erster auf allen Achttausendern" |url=https://www.alpin.de/home/news/59360/artikel_messner__8_000er-streit_geht_weiter.html |access-date=2025-07-08 |website=ALPIN.de |language=de}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |title= First person to climb all 8,000-m mountains (Legacy)|url=https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/first-person-to-climb-all-8000-m-peaks}}</ref>

Nevertheless, on 18 September 2023, GWR stripped Messner of the record and awarded it to [[Ed Viesturs]]. Messner retorted: "I don’t care if my name is in the Guinness World Records book. You can’t take a record I never claimed away from me."<ref name=":4">{{Cite news |date=2023-09-18 |title=Reclassifying the 8000ers |url=https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2023/9/reclassifying-the-8000ers-758542 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20240527120543/https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/news/2023/9/reclassifying-the-8000ers-758542 |archive-date=27 May 2024 |access-date=2025-07-08 |work=Guinness World Records |language=en-gb |url-status=live }}</ref><ref name=":5">{{Cite web |title= First true-summit ascent of the 8,000ers|url=https://www.guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/746531-first-true-summit-ascent-of-the-8-000ers}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Omar |first=Ayan |date=2023-09-26 |title=Mountaineer hits out as he is stripped of his Guinness World Records |url=https://www.standard.co.uk/news/world/reinhold-messner-guinness-world-record-mountaineer-annapurna-nepal-b1109626.html |access-date=2025-07-18 |website=The Standard |language=en}}</ref><ref name=":0" />

GWR based their reclassification of the record holder on the decade-long analysis of Eberhard Jurgalski. Jurgalski, dubbed a “mountaineering consultant” or “mountain chronicler” by the media, claimed to have used photographic and GPS records to estimate the true summits of all 14 peaks. He apparently cross-checked these findings with the summit-related claims (including photographic evidence) of the individuals who summited these peaks. Jurgalski’s estimates concluded that Messner, through no fault of his own, did not reach the true summit of at least three of the 14 peaks but that Viesturs was the first to do so. The difference in the claimed “true summit” and the “summit” supposedly reached by Messner was as little as a few meters.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":5" /><ref name=":6">{{Cite web |last=McLemore |first=Andrew |date=2023-10-04 |title=Iconic American Climber Refuses Guinness World Record: It's 'Ridiculous' to Replace Messner |url=https://gearjunkie.com/climbing/viesturs-guinness-world-record-messner |access-date=2025-07-08 |website=GearJunkie |language=en-US}}</ref><ref name=":0" />

Both Messner and Viesturs do not accept Jurgalski’s estimates and other mountaineers have disputed Jurgalski’s findings as well. Jurgalski has never climbed any of the peaks in question and his claimed expertise, methodologies, and findings have been criticized by the mountain climbing community. For example: mountains change over time, especially via the collapse of summit cornices, which could explain the differences in the summit reached 40 years ago and the ones measured today. Moreover, Jurgalski may have missed cultural nuances that only expert climbers were aware of prior to summiting a mountain climbed by very few. For instance, Viesturs honored locals’ requests not to stand on the true summit of one of the 14 peaks, stopping just short out of respect for their beliefs, which would technically mean he never summited all 14 peaks either even though he could have.<ref name=":0" /><ref name=":1" /><ref name=":7">{{Cite web |date=2023-10-13 |title='Messner 8,000m king', backtracks Jurgalski - General News - Ansa.it |url=https://www.ansa.it/english/news/general_news/2023/10/13/messner-8000m-king-backtracks-jurgalski_f335ac91-8e25-41f1-9069-1d6f496d5321.html |access-date=2025-07-08 |website=Agenzia ANSA |language=it}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Brendza |first=Will |date=2023-10-04 |title=Sandal Scandal: Entire Truckload of Bedrock Mountain Clogs Stolen — Brand Asks for Help |url=https://gearjunkie.com/news/bedrock-sandal-scandal-stolen-clogs |access-date=2025-07-08 |website=GearJunkie |language=en-US}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |last=Clash |first=Jim |title=Ed Viesturs: 'Reinhold Messner Was First, Always Will Be' |url=https://www.forbes.com/sites/jimclash/2023/09/28/ed-viesturs-reinhold-messner-was-first-always-will-be/ |access-date=2025-07-08 |website=Forbes |language=en}}</ref><ref name=":3" /><ref name=":2" />

On October 13, 2023 Jurgalski reversed key features of his findings, stating that true summit of some of the peaks is indeterminable and therefore a “summit zone” of up to ~200 meters is a more appropriate approximation of wherein the true summit may lie. As a consequence, Jurgalski stated that Messner is the true record holder “forever”.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":7" /><ref name=":3" />

Ultimately, in response to Jurgalski and GWR, Viesturs stated: “I truly believe that Reinhold Messner was the first person to climb all 14 8000ers and should still be recognized as having done so…” and “Messner is still the record-holder.”<ref name=":6" /><ref name=":0" />

Despite Jurgalski’s retraction, Viestur’s voluntary failure to reach one of the summits out of respect for local culture, and Viestur’s proclamations that Messner is the true record holder, GWR maintains that Viesturs is the actual record holder.<ref name=":4" />

== Messner Mountain Museum ==
{{main|Messner Mountain Museum}}
[[File:Passo Cibiana 5.jpg|thumb|Messner Mountain Museum in Monte Rite, Dolomites.]]
In 2003 Messner started work on a project for a mountaineering museum.<ref>{{cite news|last=Kunze|first=Thomas|url=http://www.berlinonline.de/berliner-zeitung/archiv/.bin/dump.fcgi/2006/0708/reise/0018/index.html|title=Messners 15. Achttausender|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110815015527/http://www.berlinonline.de/berliner-zeitung/archiv/.bin/dump.fcgi/2006/0708/reise/0018/index.html|archive-date=15 August 2011|newspaper=Berliner Zeitung|date=8 July 2006}}</ref> On 11 June 2006, the Messner Mountain Museum (MMM) opened, a museum that unites within one museum the stories of the growth and decline of mountains, culture in the Himalayan region and the history of South Tyrol.

The MMM consists of five or six locations:

* MMM Firmian at [[Sigmundskron Castle]] near Bozen is the centerpiece of the museum and concentrates on man's relationship with the mountains. Surrounded by peaks from the Schlern and the Texel range, the MMM Firmian provides visitors with a series of pathways, stairways, and towers containing displays that focus on the geology of the mountains, the religious significance of mountains in the lives of people, and the history of mountaineering and alpine tourism. The so-called white tower is dedicated to the history of the village and the struggle for the independence of South Tyrol.<ref name="mmm-firmian">{{cite web |title=MMM Firmian |website=Messner Mountain Museum |url=http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242637819,mid,1242637817,first,1.html |access-date=9 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140716041303/http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242637819,mid,1242637817,first,1.html |archive-date=16 July 2014  }}</ref>
* MMM Juval at Juval Castle in the [[Burggrafenamt]] in Vinschgau is dedicated to the "magic of the mountains", with an emphasis on mystical mountains, such as [[Mount Kailash]] or [[Ayers Rock]] and their religious significance. MMM Juval houses several art collections.<ref name="mmm-juval">{{cite web |title=MMM Juval |website=Messner Mountain Museum |url=http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242638447,mid,1242638445,first,1.html |access-date=9 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140225092058/http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242638447,mid,1242638445,first,1.html |archive-date=25 February 2014  }}</ref>
* MMM Dolomites, known as the Museum in the Clouds, is located at Monte Rite ({{convert|2181|m|ft|abbr=in|disp=or}}) between Pieve di Cadore and Cortina d'Ampezzo. Housed in an old fort, this museum is dedicated to the subject of rocks, particularly in the Dolomites, with exhibits focusing on the history of the formation of the Dolomites. The summit observation platform offers a 360° panorama of the surrounding Dolomites, with views toward Monte Schiara, Monte Agnèr, Monte Civetta, Marmolada, Monte Pelmo, Tofana di Rozes, Sorapis, Antelao, Marmarole.<ref name="mmm-dolomites">{{cite web |title=MMM Dolomites |website=Messner Mountain Museum |url=http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242638209,mid,1242638207,first,1.html |access-date=9 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140225091952/http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242638209,mid,1242638207,first,1.html |archive-date=25 February 2014  }}</ref>
* MMM Ortles at [[Sulden]] on the [[Ortler]] is dedicated to the theme of ice. This underground structure is situated at {{convert|1900|m|ft|abbr=in}} and focuses on the history of mountaineering on ice and the great glaciers of the world. The museum contains the world's largest collection of paintings of the Ortler, as well as ice-climbing gear from two centuries.<ref name="mmm-ortles">{{cite web |title=MMM Ortles |website=Messner Mountain Museum |url=http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242637409,mid,1242637407,first,1.html |access-date=9 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140225092100/http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242637409,mid,1242637407,first,1.html |archive-date=25 February 2014  }}</ref>
* MMM Ripa at Brunico Castle in [[South Tyrol]] is dedicated to the mountain peoples from Asia, Africa, South America and Europe, with emphasis on their cultures, religions, and tourism activities.<ref name="mmm-ripa">{{cite web |title=MMM Ripa |website=Messner Mountain Museum |url=http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242638873,mid,1242638871,first,1.html |access-date=9 February 2014 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20140225091955/http://www.messner-mountain-museum.it/messner-mountain-museum,pid,1,lid,en,meid,1242638873,mid,1242638871,first,1.html |archive-date=25 February 2014  }}</ref>
* MMM Corones, opened in July 2015 on the top of the [[Kronplatz]] mountain (''Plan de Corones'' in Italian), is dedicated to [[traditional climbing]].<ref>{{cite web|title= Zaha Hadid's MMM Corones museum gazes at the mountains | url=http://www.inexhibit.com/case-studies/corones-museum-zaha-hadid-gazing-mountains | author= Federica Lusiardi |publisher=[[Inexhibit]]|access-date=25 November 2015}}</ref>

== Political career ==
{{Infobox officeholder
| name                = Reinhold Messner
| image               = Reinhold Messner in Koeln 2009 (02).jpg
| imagesize           = 
| office1             = [[Member of the European Parliament]]<br />for [[North-East Italy (European Parliament constituency)|North-East Italy]]
| term_start1         = 20 July 1999
| term_end1           = 19 July 2004
| predecessor1        = 
| successor1          = 
| birth_date          = {{Birth date and age|1944|9|17|df=y}}
| birth_place         = [[Brixen]], Italy
| nationality         = 
| religion            = 
| alma_mater          = 
| residence           = 
| profession          = 
| party               = [[Greens (South Tyrol)|Greens of South Tyrol]]
| otherparty          = [[Federation of the Greens]]
| spouse              = 
| children            = 
}}

In 1999, Messner was elected [[Member of the European Parliament]] for the [[Federation of the Greens]] (FdV), the Italian [[green party]], receiving more than 20,000 votes in the [[1999 European Parliament election in Italy|European election]]. He fully served his term until 2004, when he retired from politics.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.europarl.europa.eu/parlArchives/mepArch/alphaOrder/view.do?language=EN&id=4419 |title=Search for a Member; European Parliament |publisher=Europarl.europa.eu |access-date=20 September 2016}}</ref>

Messner was officially a member of [[Greens (South Tyrol)|South Tyrolean Greens]], a regionalist and ecologist political party active only in [[South Tyrol]], which ''[[de facto]]'' acts as a regional branch of the FdV.

===Electoral history===
{|class=wikitable style="width:55%; border:1px #AAAAFF solid"
|-
! width=12%|Election
! width=25%|House
! width=25%|Constituency
! width=5% colspan="2"|Party
! width=12%|Votes
! width=12%|Result
|-
! [[1999 European Parliament election in Italy|1999]]
| [[European Parliament]]
| [[North-East Italy (European Parliament constituency)|North-East Italy]]
| bgcolor="{{party color|Federation of the Greens}}" |
| [[Federation of the Greens|FdV]]
| 20,291
| {{nowrap|{{tick|15}} '''Elected'''}}
|-
|}

==Personal life==
From 1972 until 1977, Messner was married to Uschi Demeter. With his partner, Canadian photographer Nena Holguin, he has a daughter, Làyla Messner, born in 1981.{{CN|date=February 2025}} On 31 July 2009, he married his long time girlfriend Sabine Stehle, a textile designer from Vienna, with whom he has three children.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://www.nachrichten.at/panorama/society/Reinhold-Messner-trickste-Neugierige-aus-Einen-Tag-frueher-geheiratet;art411,232745 | title=Reinhold Messner trickste Neugierige aus: Einen Tag früher geheiratet | work=OÖNachrichten | publisher=OÖ. Online GmbH & Co.KG | date=1 August 2009}}</ref> They divorced in 2019.<ref>[https://www.tageszeitung.it/2021/05/11/messner-sagt-ja/ Messner sagt Ja], tageszeitung.it, 11 May 2021</ref> In late May 2021, Messner married Diane Schumacher, a 41-year-old Luxembourgish woman living in [[Munich]],<ref>{{usurped|1=[https://web.archive.org/web/20210709190036/https://tipsforwomens.org/who-is-diane-schumacher-the-future-wife-of-reinhold-messner/ Who is Diane Schumacher, the future wife of Reinhold Messner]}}, tipsforwomens.org, 12 May 2021</ref><ref>[https://www.tageszeitung.it/2021/05/29/reden-wir-ueber-liebe/ Reden wir über Liebe], tageszeitung.it, 29 May 2021 (in German)</ref> at the town hall in [[Kastelbell-Tschars]] near his home in South Tyrol.<ref>[https://www.tageszeitung.it/2021/05/29/unter-der-haube/ Unter der Haube], tageszeitung.it, 29 May 2021</ref><ref>[https://orf.at//stories/3215187/ Reinhold Messner erneut verheiratet], orf.at, 29. Mai 2021 (in German)</ref>

== In media ==
*''[[The Dark Glow of the Mountains]]'' (''Gasherbrum – Der leuchtende Berg''), a 1985 [[Werner Herzog]] television documentary
* ''Portrait of a Snow Lion'', a BBC/France3 1992 documentary on Messner; part 4 of the series ''The Climbers''<ref name="Portrait of a Snow Lion">{{cite web|url=https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/portrait-of-a-snow-lion-1992|title=Portrait of a snow lion|publisher=MNTNFILM|access-date=27 October 2021}}</ref>
* ''Messner'', a 2002 feature documentary about Messner by [[Les Guthman]]<ref name="Messner Guthman">{{cite web|url=https://www.mntnfilm.com/en/film/messner-2002|title=Messner|publisher=MNTNFILM|access-date=27 October 2021}}</ref>
* ''[[Lissi und der wilde Kaiser]]'', an animated comedy movie from 2007 by [[Michael Herbig]] that ends with a photo of the Yeti with his new buddy, Reinhold Messner
* ''[[Nanga Parbat (film)|Nanga Parbat]]'', a 2010 film based on Messner's achievements
*''[[14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible]]'', a 2021 [[Netflix]] documentary film about [[Nirmal Purja]] and his mountaineering team's world record breaking ascent of the 14 highest mountains in the world. Reinhold Messner provides commentary in several interview segments. The ''[[New York Times]]'' described his contribution to the film as "the alpine legend Reinhold Messner waxing beautifully existential".<ref>{{Cite news| issn = 0362-4331| last = Kennedy| first = Lisa| title = '14 Peaks: Nothing Is Impossible' Review: Climbing at a Breakneck Pace| work = The New York Times| accessdate = 2 December 2021| date = 1 December 2021| url = https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/01/movies/14-peaks-nothing-is-impossible-review.html| archive-date = 1 December 2021| archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20211201223735/https://www.nytimes.com/2021/12/01/movies/14-peaks-nothing-is-impossible-review.html| url-status = live}}</ref>
* ''[[The Alpinist]]'', a 2021 documentary film with commentary by Messner

[[Ben Folds Five]] named their 1999 alt-rock album ''[[The Unauthorized Biography of Reinhold Messner]]'' despite being unaware of the real Messner; drummer [[Darren Jessee]] got the name from a school friend's [[fake ID]].<ref>{{cite AV media notes |author=Ben Folds Five |date=1999 |chapter=About the title  |title=The Unauthorized Biography of Reinhold Messner  |url=https://archive.org/details/cd_the-unauthorized-biography-of-reinhold_ben-folds-five_0/page/n3/mode/1up |publisher=[[550 Music]] |id=BK 69808 |access-date=14 September 2025 |ref=}}</ref>

== See also ==
*[[List of climbers]]

==References==
{{Reflist}}

==Selected bibliography (English translations)==
*{{cite book | title = The Crystal Horizon: Everest – The First Solo Ascent  | publisher = Mountaineers Books  | year = 1989| location = Seattle | isbn = 978-0-89886-574-5  }}
*{{cite book | title = Free Spirit: A Climber's Life  | publisher = Mountaineers Books  | year = 1998  | location = Seattle | isbn = 978-0-89886-573-8 }}
*{{cite book | title = All Fourteen 8,000ers  | publisher = Mountaineers Books  | year = 1999  | location = | isbn = 978-0-89886-660-5 }}
*{{cite book | title = My Quest for the Yeti: Confronting the Himalayas' Deepest Mystery  | publisher = St. Martin's Press  | year = 2000  | location = New York | isbn = 978-0-312-20394-8  }}
*{{cite book |title = The Big Walls: From the North Face of the Eiger to the South Face of Dhaulagiri | publisher = Mountaineers Books  | year = 2001 | location = Seattle | isbn = 978-0-89886-844-9 }}
*{{cite book | title = Moving Mountains: Lessons on Life and Leadership  | publisher = Executive Excellence | year = 2001  | location = Provo | isbn = 978-1-890009-90-8  }}
*{{cite book |translator-first1=Tim |translator-last1=Carruthers  | title = The Second Death of George Mallory: The Enigma and Spirit of Mount Everest  | publisher = St. Martin's Griffin | year = 2002  | location = New York | isbn = 978-0-312-27075-9 }}
*{{cite book | title = [[The Naked Mountain]]  | publisher = Mountaineers Books  | year = 2003  | location = Seattle, WA, US  | isbn = 978-0-89886-959-0 }}
*{{cite book | title = My Life at the Limit  | publisher = Mountaineers Books  | year = 2014  | location = Seattle, WA, US  | isbn = 978-1-59485-852-9 }}

==Sources==
* {{cite news |url=http://outsideonline.com/outside/features/200210/200210_messner_1.html |last=Wetzler |first=Brad |work=Outside Magazine |title=Reinhold Don't Care What You Think |date=October 2002 |url-status=dead |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20100922195720/http://outsideonline.com/outside/features/200210/200210_messner_1.html |archive-date=22 September 2010  }}
* {{cite book|last=Krakauer|first=Jon|title=[[Into Thin Air]]|publisher=Villard Books|location=New York|year=1997|isbn=978-0385494786|oclc=42967338}}
* https://guinnessworldrecords.com/world-records/746531-first-true-summit-ascent-of-the-8-000ers

==Further reading==
*{{cite magazine|title=I Climbed Everest Alone... At My Limit|magazine=[[National Geographic (magazine)|National Geographic]]|first=Reinhold|last=Messner|pages=552–566|volume=160|issue=4|date=October 1981|issn=0027-9358|oclc=643483454}}

==External links==
{{Commons category}}
* [http://www.reinhold-messner.de/ Official site] {{in lang|de}}
* [https://www.theguardian.com/world/2005/aug/19/barbaramcmahon Discovery of remains ends controversy about the death of Reinhold Messner's brother]
* {{YouTube|7XQMRwAy0Y8|(rare English interview with Messner)}}
* [https://thediplomat.com/2017/04/reinhold-messner-on-the-future-of-climbing-mount-everest/] Reinhold Messner on the Future of Climbing Mount Everest - an interview with Saransh Sehgal

==Interviews==
* [[Gaia Symphony (TV Series)|Gaia Symphony Documentary series]] (Japanese production).
* [https://achievement.org/achiever/reinhold-messner/#interview Reinhold Messner Biography and Interview on American Academy of Achievement].

{{S-start}}
{{S-ach|aw}}
{{succession box|title=[[Princess of Asturias Awards#Sports (Deportes)|Princess of Asturias Award for Sports]]<br /><small>(with [[Krzysztof Wielicki]])</small>
|before=[[New Zealand national rugby union team]]|after=[[Lindsey Vonn]]|years=2018}}
{{succession box|title=Golden Plate Award of the [[Academy of Achievement|American Academy of Achievement]]<ref>{{cite web|title= Golden Plate Awardees of the American Academy of Achievement |website=www.achievement.org|publisher=[[American Academy of Achievement]]|url=https://achievement.org/our-history/golden-plate-awards/#science-exploration}}</ref><br />1987
|before=n/a|after=n/a}}
{{S-end}}

{{Polar exploration|state=collapsed}}
{{Princess of Asturias Award for Sports}}
{{Italian Sportsman of the Year}}
{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Messner, Reinhold}}
[[Category:Reinhold Messner| ]]
[[Category:Italian explorers]]
[[Category:Italian mountain climbers]]
[[Category:Federation of the Greens MEPs]]
[[Category:Living people]]
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[[Category:Free soloists]]
[[Category:Summiters of the Seven Summits]]
[[Category:Summiters of all 14 eight-thousanders]]
[[Category:Germanophone Italian people]]
[[Category:People from Brixen]]
[[Category:MEPs for Italy 1999–2004]]
[[Category:20th-century Italian politicians]]
[[Category:21st-century Italian politicians]]
[[Category:Year of birth missing (living people)]]
[[Category:Politicians of South Tyrol]]
[[Category:Recipients of the Royal Geographical Society Patron's Medal]]
[[Category:Piolet d'Or winners]]
[[Category:Italian summiters of Mount Everest]]
[[Category:Summiters of K2]]
[[Category:Summiters of Broad Peak]]
[[Category:Climbing and mountaineering writers]]