View source for Steens Mountain

{{Short description|Mountain in Oregon, United States}}
{{Use American English|date=July 2025}}
{{Use mdy dates|date=November 2020}}
{{Infobox mountain
| name = Steens Mountain
| etymology = [[Enoch Steen]]
| photo = Steens Mountain near Andrews, Oregon.jpg
| photo_caption = Steens Mountain near [[Andrews, Oregon]]
| elevation_ft = 9738
| elevation_ref = {{NAVD88}}<ref name="pb">{{cite peakbagger |pid=3338 |name=Steens Mountain, Oregon |access-date=2009-12-27}}</ref>
| prominence_ft = 4373
| prominence_ref = <ref name="pb"/>
| map = USA#Oregon
| map_caption = Location in the [[United States]]##Location in [[Oregon]]
| map_size = 280
| listing = {{unbulleted list
  | [[List of highest points in Oregon by county|Oregon county high points]]
  | [[List of the most isolated major summits of North America|North America isolated peaks]] 106th
 | [[List of the most prominent summits of the United States|U.S. most prominent peaks]] 178th
  }}
| location = [[Harney County, Oregon|Harney County]], [[Oregon]], [[United States|U.S.]]
| range = 
| coordinates = {{coord|42.636418|N|118.576717|W|type:mountain_region:US-OR_scale:100000|format=dms|display=inline,title}}
| range_coordinates = 
| coordinates_ref = <ref name="pb"/>
| topo = [[United States Geological Survey|USGS]] Wildhorse Lake
| mountain_type = [[Fault-block mountain]], [[volcanic mountain]], [[shield&nbsp;volcano]]
| volcanic_field = [[Columbia River Basalt&nbsp;Group]]
| last_eruption = Before Pleistocene
| age = 
| first_ascent = 
| easiest_route = Short hike from gravel road
}}
'''Steens Mountain''' is a large [[fault-block mountain]] in the [[Northwestern United States|northwest]] [[United States]], located in [[Harney County, Oregon|Harney County]], [[Oregon]].<ref>{{cite web |url=http://traveloregon.com/trip-ideas/scenic-byways/steens-loop-tour-route/ |title=Steens Loop Tour Route |publisher=Travel Oregon |access-date=2016-04-27 |archive-date=November 20, 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20151120210022/http://traveloregon.com/trip-ideas/scenic-byways/steens-loop-tour-route/ |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/HWY/SCENICBYWAYS/docs/driving_guide/steens_loop.pdf |title=The Steens Loop Tour Route |publisher=Scenic Byways, Oregon Department of Transportation |access-date=2016-04-27 |archive-date=September 19, 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150919001050/http://www.oregon.gov/ODOT/HWY/SCENICBYWAYS/docs/driving_guide/steens_loop.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> Stretching some {{convert|50|mi|spell=in}} north to south, on its east side it rises from the [[Alvord Desert]] at an [[elevation]] of about {{convert|4200|ft|-1}} to {{convert|9738|ft|0}} at the summit. Steens Mountain is not part of a [[mountain range]] but is properly a single mountain, the largest of Oregon's [[Fault block|fault-block]] mountains.<ref name=":0">{{Cite web|url=https://www.oregonencyclopedia.org/articles/steens_mountain/#.YmbJbtrMKUk|title=Steens Mountain|website=[[The Oregon Encyclopedia|oregonencyclopedia.org]]|access-date=2022-04-25}}</ref><ref name=conkling>Conkling, C., Jackman, E. R., & Scharff, J. (1967). [https://books.google.com/books?id=xgT9cTwimWsC Steens Mountain in Oregon's high desert country]. Caxton Press. Retrieved April 25, 2022</ref>

The [[Steens Mountain Wilderness]] encompasses {{convert|170166|acre|sqmi km2|1}} of Steens Mountain.<ref name="blm">{{cite web |url=http://www.blm.gov/or/districts/burns/recreation/steens-mtn.php |title=Steens Mountain |publisher=Bureau of Land Management |date=2017-04-10 |access-date=August 28, 2015 |archive-date=August 25, 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150825041116/http://www.blm.gov/or/districts/burns/recreation/steens-mtn.php |url-status=live }}</ref> {{convert|98859|acre|sqmi km2|1}} of the Wilderness are protected from [[grazing]] and free of [[cattle]].<ref name="wildnet">{{cite web |url=http://www.wilderness.net/index.cfm?fuse=NWPS&sec=wildView&wname=Steens%20Mountain |title=Steens Mountain Wilderness |publisher=Wilderness.net |access-date=January 4, 2016 |archive-date=September 23, 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160923135537/http://www.wilderness.net/index.cfm?fuse=NWPS&sec=wildView&wname=Steens%20Mountain |url-status=dead }}</ref>

==Geology==
Steens Mountain is the remnant of a long [[shield volcano]].

The east face of Steens Mountain is composed mainly of [[basalt]]s stacked one upon another. [[Lava]] flows several hundreds of feet thick inundated the region between 17 and 14 million years ago.<ref>{{cite summitpost |id=355999 |name=Southeast Oregon Basin and Range |accessdate=2011-05-07}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |url=https://mrdata.usgs.gov/geology/state/sgmc-unit.php?unit=ORTbas%3B0 |title=Andesitic and basaltic rocks on Steens Mountain |publisher=United States Geological Survey |access-date=2016-04-27 |archive-date=December 26, 2013 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20131226091611/http://mrdata.usgs.gov/geology/state/sgmc-unit.php?unit=ORTbas;0 |url-status=live }}</ref><ref>{{citation|doi=10.1130/0016-7606(2003)115<0105:GOFBAB>2.0.CO;2|title=Genesis of flood basalts and Basin and Range volcanic rocks from Steens Mountain to the Malheur River Gorge, Oregon|journal=Geological Society of America Bulletin|volume=115|issue=1|pages=105–128|year=2003|last1=Camp|first1=Victor E.|last2=Ross|first2=Martin E.|last3=Hanson|first3=William E.|bibcode=2003GSAB..115..105C}}</ref> Chemical data from [[magma]] deposits from the area reveal three distinct stages of volcanism.<ref>{{Cite journal|last1=Moore|first1=N. E.|last2=Grunder|first2=A. L.|author-link2=Anita Grunder|last3=Bohrson|first3=W. A.|last4=Carlson|first4=R. W.|last5=Bindeman|first5=I. N.|date=2020|title=Changing Mantle Sources and the Effects of Crustal Passage on the Steens Basalt, SE Oregon: Chemical and Isotopic Constraints|journal=Geochemistry, Geophysics, Geosystems|language=en|volume=21|issue=8|doi=10.1029/2020GC008910|s2cid=225354222|issn=1525-2027|doi-access=free}}</ref>

Layers of clay and volcanic dust show over forty lava flows on Steens Mountain. Most lava layers reach to {{convert|3000|ft|m}} thick or more in some areas. As the surface cracked, peaks and valleys were formed. Erosion and landfalls continue to modify the faces of the cliffs along the mountain.{{r|conkling|page =97}} The sediment [[Bed (geology)|bedding]] is roughly horizontal, evidence to the absence of [[Tension (physics)|compressional forces]].<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.nps.gov/parkhistory/online_books/geology/publications/state/wa/uw-1931-3-1/sec4a.htm|title=The Geomorphology and Volcanic Sequence of Steens Mountain in Southeastern Oregon|website=University of Washington Publications in Geology|access-date=2022-04-25}}</ref> The white sediments consist primarily of stratified acidic tuffs. While rain hasn't been a main contributor to [[erosion]], ice and snow melt are the main sources of erosion on Steens Mountain.{{r|conkling|page =97}}

==Ecology==
Vegetation in the Steens Mountain Wilderness varies greatly according to elevation. Common plants include [[sagebrush]], [[juniper]], various species of [[bunchgrass]], [[mountain mahogany]], [[aspen]], [[mountain meadow knotweed]], and [[Veratrum|false hellebore]]. Other vegetation endemic to Steens Mountain includes Steens paintbrush (''[[Castilleja pilosa]] var. steenensis''), moss gentian (''[[Gentiana fremontii]]''), Steens Mountain penstemon (''[[Penstemon davidsonii]] var. praeteritus''), Steens Mountain thistle (''[[Cirsium peckii]]''), a [[Lupinus nanus|dwarf blue lupine]], and Cusick's buckwheat (''[[Eriogonum cusickii]]'').<ref>{{cite book |last=Sullivan |first=William L. |editor=Thurman, Paula |title=Exploring Oregon's Wild Areas |edition=3rd |publisher=The Mountaineers Books |year=2002 |isbn=978-0-89886-793-0}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last=St. John |first=Alan D. |title=Oregon's Dry Side: Exploring East of the Cascade Crest |publisher=Timber Press |year=2007 |isbn=978-0-88192-829-7}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|title=Flora of Steens Mountain|first=Donald H.|last=Mansfield|publisher=OSU Press|isbn=978-0-87071-471-9|year=2000}}</ref>
[[File:Wild Horses on Steens Mountain (6983016963).jpg|thumb|left|Wild horses and sagebrush on Steens Mountain]]

Steens Mountain is distinctive in its absence of trees of the pine family, [[Pinaceae]], especially [[ponderosa pine]] and [[Douglas fir]], at elevations in which they would normally be found – from {{convert|5,500-8,000|ft|m|abbr=off|sp=us}} above sea level. Although other mountains of the Great Basin also lack these trees, Steens Mountain is the largest mountain area without them. One possible cause of the absence of these trees is the isolation of Steens Mountain, although lack of seed dispersal by bird species such as [[Clark's nutcracker]] may also be a factor. It is also possible that prehistoric fires, including [[Native American use of fire in ecosystems|fires used by Native Americans]], eradicated the Pinaceae populations.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.npsoregon.org/kalmiopsis/kalmiopsis05/mansfield.pdf |last=Mansfield |first=Donald |year=1995 |title=The Unique Botany of Steens Mountain: The Rare and Endemic Plants |access-date=2016-01-04 |archive-date=March 4, 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160304190250/http://www.npsoregon.org/kalmiopsis/kalmiopsis05/mansfield.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> Home to a wide variety of animals, the area is primarily known for [[Birdwatching|birding]], hunting, and fishing. Birds here include [[golden eagle]]s, owls, and the protected [[Centrocercus|sage grouse]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://audubonportland.org/our-work/protect/habitat-and-wildlife/central-and-eastern-oregon/steens-mountain/ |title=Steens Mountain |publisher=Portland Audubon Society |year=2020 |access-date=October 12, 2020 |archive-date=October 17, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201017224214/https://audubonportland.org/our-work/protect/habitat-and-wildlife/central-and-eastern-oregon/steens-mountain/ |url-status=live }}</ref> Other animals found in the area include [[rattlesnake]]s, scorpions, [[elk]], [[bighorn sheep]], [[Pronghorn|pronghorn antelope]], and [[cougar]]s.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.dfw.state.or.us/wildlife/cougar/docs/2017_Oregon_Cougar_Management_Plan.pdf |title=2017 Oregon Cougar Management Plan |publisher=Oregon Department of Fish and Wildlife |year=2017 |access-date=October 12, 2020 |archive-date=September 20, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20200920182328/https://www.dfw.state.or.us/wildlife/cougar/docs/2017_Oregon_Cougar_Management_Plan.pdf |url-status=live }}</ref> The area is home to [[wild horse]]s. Drawing much controversy, the [[Bureau of Land Management]] engages in [[Free-roaming horse management in North America#WFRH&BA management|wild horse roundups]] every few years, employing helicopters to herd the horses.<ref>{{Cite news |last=Darling |first=Dylan J. |date=2015-07-11 |title=Steens Mountain wild horse round up still on, for now |language=en |work=Bend Bulletin |url=https://www.bendbulletin.com/localstate/steens-mountain-wild-horse-round-up-still-on-for-now/article_69418919-4b12-5170-a3be-f802ea3315f0.html |url-access=registration |access-date=2021-11-06 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20211106050553/https://www.bendbulletin.com/localstate/steens-mountain-wild-horse-round-up-still-on-for-now/article_69418919-4b12-5170-a3be-f802ea3315f0.html |archive-date=2021-11-06}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |date=2020-09-16 |title=Bureau of Land Management to begin South Steens Herd Management Area wild horse gather |url=https://www.blm.gov/press-release/bureau-land-management-begin-south-steens-herd-management-area-wild-horse-gather |url-status=live |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210403044108/https://www.blm.gov/press-release/bureau-land-management-begin-south-steens-herd-management-area-wild-horse-gather |archive-date=2021-04-03 |access-date=2021-11-06 |website=Bureau of Land Management |language=en}}</ref> Historically, Steens Mountain Wilderness was once home to [[grizzly bear]]s; a skull was unearthed in nearby [[Malheur Lake]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://oregonwild.org/about/blog/oregon-grizzly-country |last=Shaw |first=Ethan |title=Oregon as Grizzly Country |year=2015 |access-date=November 1, 2020 |archive-date=November 8, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201108020431/https://oregonwild.org/about/blog/oregon-grizzly-country |url-status=live }}</ref> In the 1970s, a [[wolverine]] was trapped and released on Steens Mountain.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://myodfw.com/wildlife-viewing/species/wolverine |title=Wildlife Viewing: Wolverine |publisher=Oregon Department of fish and Wildlife |access-date=November 1, 2020 |archive-date=November 7, 2020 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201107115155/https://myodfw.com/wildlife-viewing/species/wolverine |url-status=live }}</ref>

==History==
The mountain was called the "Snowy Mountains" by [[John Work (fur trader)|John Work]], one of the [[fur trade]]rs who were the first Europeans in the area. It was renamed in 1860 for [[United States Army]] Major [[Enoch Steen]], who fought and drove members of the [[Northern Paiute|Paiute tribe]] off the mountain.<ref>
  {{cite book
  | last = McArthur
  | first = Lewis A.
  |author2=Lewis L. McArthur
   | title = Oregon Geographic Names
  | orig-year = 1928
  | edition = 7th
  | year = 2003
  | publisher = [[Oregon Historical Society]] Press 
  | location = [[Portland, Oregon|Portland]], [[Oregon]]
  | isbn = 0-87595-277-1  }}</ref><ref>
  {{cite book
  | last = Loy
  | first = Willam G.
  |author2=Stuart Allan |author3=Aileen R. Buckley |author4=James E. Meacham
  | title = Atlas of Oregon
  | publisher = University of Oregon Press
  | year = 2001
  | page = 25
  | isbn = 0-87114-101-9 }}</ref> [[Native Americans in the United States|American Indians]] used the Steens Mountain, particularly Big Indian Gorge.{{r|conkling|page =100}}

[[File:Steens Mountain Wilderness Map (13852069783).jpg|thumb|upright|BLM Steens Mountain Wilderness&nbsp;Map]]
On October&nbsp;24, 2000, President [[Bill Clinton]] approved the Steens Mountain Cooperative Management and Protective Act. The act was created by local landowners in cooperation with local and national government representatives in response to a proposed [[National monument (United States)|National Monument]]. This act created the Steens Mountain [[Bureau of Land Management|BLM]] Cooperative Management and Protection Area, a {{convert|425000|acre|km2|sigfig=3|adj=on}} area. This law protects {{convert|1200000|acre|sqmi km2|sigfig=3}} from mining, and {{convert|100000|acre|sqmi km2|sigfig=3}} from [[cattle]] grazing.<ref>{{cite web
  | last = Karras
  | first = Christy
  | title = Politicians dedicate Steens Mountain preserve
  | publisher = [[Seattle Post Intelligencer]]
  | date = 2001-08-16
  | url = http://www.seattlepi.com/getaways/35297_steens16.shtml
  | access-date = 2008-04-02
  | archive-date = November 6, 2021
  | archive-url = https://web.archive.org/web/20211106052351/https://www.seattlepi.com/news/article/Politicians-dedicate-Steens-Mountain-preserve-1062750.php
  | url-status = live
  }}</ref>

==Climate==
{{Weather box
|location = Steens Mountain 42.6400 N, 118.5808 W, Elevation: {{cvt|9318|ft}} (1991–2020 normals)
|single line = y
|width = auto

|Jan high F = 29.3
|Feb high F = 28.7
|Mar high F = 31.6
|Apr high F = 36.2
|May high F = 45.4
|Jun high F = 55.0
|Jul high F = 67.3
|Aug high F = 67.0
|Sep high F = 59.1
|Oct high F = 46.7
|Nov high F = 34.0
|Dec high F = 28.4

|Jan mean F = 22.3
|Feb mean F = 20.5
|Mar mean F = 22.5
|Apr mean F = 25.9
|May mean F = 34.2
|Jun mean F = 42.8
|Jul mean F = 53.4
|Aug mean F = 53.1
|Sep mean F = 45.7
|Oct mean F = 35.7
|Nov mean F = 26.4
|Dec mean F = 21.5

|Jan low F = 15.3
|Feb low F = 12.4
|Mar low F = 13.5
|Apr low F = 15.6
|May low F = 23.0
|Jun low F = 30.6
|Jul low F = 39.6
|Aug low F = 39.1
|Sep low F = 32.3
|Oct low F = 24.6
|Nov low F = 18.9
|Dec low F = 14.5

|precipitation colour = green
|Jan precipitation inch = 6.81
|Feb precipitation inch = 5.34
|Mar precipitation inch = 6.40
|Apr precipitation inch = 5.87
|May precipitation inch = 4.92
|Jun precipitation inch = 2.74
|Jul precipitation inch = 0.57
|Aug precipitation inch = 0.63
|Sep precipitation inch = 1.05
|Oct precipitation inch = 2.95
|Nov precipitation inch = 4.93
|Dec precipitation inch = 7.57

|source=PRISM Climate Group<ref>{{cite web
|url= http://prism.oregonstate.edu/explorer/
|title= PRISM Climate Group, Oregon State University
|publisher= PRISM Climate Group, Oregon State University
|access-date= September 28, 2023
|quote= To find the table data on the PRISM website, start by clicking ''Coordinates'' (under ''Location''); copy ''Latitude'' and ''Longitude figures'' from top of table; click ''Zoom to location''; click ''Precipitation, Minimum temp, Mean temp, Maximum temp''; click ''30-year normals, 1991-2020''; click ''800m''; click ''Retrieve Time Series'' button.}}</ref>
}}

==Recreation==
The west slope of Steens Mountain is traversed by a {{convert|52|mi|km|adj=on}} loop road, which is suitable for passenger vehicles.<ref name="blm"/> The road reaches an elevation of {{convert|9700|ft|-1}}, making it the highest road in Oregon. It is possible to drive nearly to the summit of the mountain and to other viewpoints such as Kiger Gorge.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.harneycounty.com/steensmountain.html |title=Steens Mountain |publisher=Harney County Chamber of Commerce |access-date=2016-04-27 |archive-date=September 24, 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150924025003/http://www.harneycounty.com/steensmountain.html |url-status=live }}</ref> Steens Mountain is also host to Steens Mountain High Altitude Running Camp.<ref>{{cite web |url=http://steens.camp/ |title=Steens Mountain High Altitude Running Camp |access-date=2016-04-27 |archive-date=May 2, 2016 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160502235348/http://steens.camp/ |url-status=live }}</ref>

Other recreational activities enjoyed on and around Steens Mountain are camping, picknicking, bicycling, hiking, hunting, sightseeing, soaring, and exploring. There are numerous [[hot springs]] along the base of Steens Mountain, including [[Alvord Hot Springs]].<ref>{{cite book  |first1=David D |last1=Alt |first2=Donald W |last2=Hyndman |year=1978 |title=Roadside Geology of Oregon |location=Missoula |publisher=Mountain Press Publishing Company |isbn=9780878420636}}</ref> Far from city lights, stargazing is also popular.

==See also==
{{portal|Mountains}}
* [[Steens Mountain Wilderness]]

==References==
{{reflist|33em}}

==External links==
{{commons and category|Steens Mountain}}
* {{cite gnis|id=1127571|name=Steens Mountain}}
* {{cite web
  | url = http://www.wilderness.net/index.cfm?fuse=NWPS&sec=WildView&WID=576&tab=Images
  | title = Steens Mountain Wilderness
  | publisher = Wilderness.net
  | access-date = 2008-04-02 }}
* {{cite web
  | url = http://geogdata.csun.edu/or_panorama_atlas/page6/files/page6-1082-full.html
  | title = Virtual aerial image looking south across Steens Mountain and the Alvord Desert
  | publisher = California Geographical Survey
  | access-date = 2008-04-02 }}
* [[:Commons:Steens Mountain#Maps and aerial views|Two more Sentinel-2 satellite images of Steens Mountain]]
* [https://www.blm.gov/programs/recreation/recreation-activities/oregon-washington/steens-mountain Steens Mountain Cooperative Management and Protection Area] – BLM page

{{US isolated}}
{{Protected areas of Oregon}}
{{Oregon}}

{{authority control}}

[[Category:Mountains of Oregon]]
[[Category:Landforms of Harney County, Oregon]]
[[Category:Protected areas of Harney County, Oregon]]
[[Category:Bureau of Land Management areas in Oregon]]
[[Category:Volcanoes of Oregon]]