View source for Sutherland

{{About|the county of Sutherland in the Scottish Highlands}}
{{Use dmy dates|date=November 2019}}
{{Use British English|date=November 2019}}
{{Infobox settlement
<!-- See Template:Infobox settlement for additional fields and descriptions -->| name                            = Sutherland
| native_name                     = {{native_name|gd|Cataibh}}
| native_name_lang                = gd
| settlement_type                 = [[Shires of Scotland|Historic county]]
| image_skyline                   = 
| image_alt                       = 
| image_caption                   = 
| image_flag                      = Flag of Sutherland.svg
| flag_size                       = 150px
| flag_link                       = Flag of Sutherland
| flag_alt                        = 
| image_seal                      = 
| seal_alt                        = 
| image_shield                    = 
| shield_alt                      = 
| nickname                        = 
| motto                           = 
| image_map                       = File:Sutherland-Scotland.svg
| map_alt                         = 
| map_caption                     = 
| pushpin_map                     = 
| pushpin_map_alt                 = 
| pushpin_map_caption             = 
| coor_pinpoint                   = 
| coordinates                     = {{Coord|58|15|N|4|30|W|region:GB-HLD_type:adm2nd_source:GNS-enwiki|display=title,inline}}
| coordinates_footnotes           = 
| subdivision_type                = [[Sovereign state]]
| subdivision_name                = {{Flag|United Kingdom }}
| subdivision_type1               = [[Subdivisions of the United Kingdom|Country]]
| subdivision_name1               = {{flag|Scotland}}
| subdivision_type2               = [[Council area]]
| subdivision_name2               = [[Highland (council area)|Highland]]
| established_title               = 
| established_date                = 
| founder                         = 
| seat_type                       = 
| seat                            = 
| government_footnotes            = 
| leader_party                    = 
| leader_title                    = 
| leader_name                     = 
| unit_pref                       = UK<!-- or US or Metric -->
| area_footnotes                  = 
| area_total_sq_mi                = 2028
| area_land_sq_mi                 = 
| area_water_sq_mi                = 
| area_total_km2                  = {{convert|2028|sqmi|km2|disp=number|0}}
| area_land_km2                   = 
| area_water_km2                  = 
| area_water_percent              = 
| area_note                       = Ranked 5th of 34
| elevation_footnotes             = 
| elevation_m                     = 
| population_footnotes            = 
| population_total                = 12,803
| population_as_of                = 2011
| population_density_km2          = auto
| population_demonym              = 
| population_note                 = 
| timezone1                       = 
| utc_offset1                     = 
| timezone1_DST                   = 
| utc_offset1_DST                 = 
| postal_code_type                = [[Chapman code]]
| postal_code                     = SUT
| area_code_type                  = 
| area_code                       = 
| iso_code                        = 
| website                         = <!-- {{URL|example.com}} -->
| footnotes                       = 
| official_name                   = 
}}

'''Sutherland''' ({{langx|gd|Cataibh}}) is a [[Counties of Scotland|historic county]], [[registration county]] and [[lieutenancy areas of Scotland|lieutenancy area]] in the [[Scottish Highlands|Highlands]] of Scotland. The name dates from the [[Scandinavian Scotland|Viking]] era when the area was ruled by the [[Jarl of Orkney]]; although Sutherland includes some of the northernmost land on the island of [[Great Britain]], it was called ''{{lang|non|Suðrland}}'' ("southern land") from the standpoint of [[Orkney]] and [[Caithness]].

From the 13th century, Sutherland was a [[provincial lordship]], being an [[earldom]] controlled by the [[Earl of Sutherland]]. The earldom just covered the southeastern part of the later county. A [[Shires of Scotland|shire]] called Sutherland was created in 1633, covering the earldom of Sutherland and the neighbouring provinces of [[Assynt]] to the west and [[Strathnaver]] to the north. Shires gradually eclipsed the old provinces in administrative importance, and also become known as counties.

The county is generally rural and sparsely populated. Sutherland was particularly affected by the [[Highland Clearances]] of the 18th and 19th centuries, and the population has been in decline since the mid-19th century. As at 2011 the population of the county was 12,803, being less than half of the peak of 25,793 which was recorded in 1851. Only one town held [[burgh]] status, being [[Dornoch]], where the county's courts were held. Between 1890 and 1975 Sutherland had a county council, which had its main offices in the village of [[Golspie]].

Sutherland has a coast to the east onto the [[Moray Firth]] and a coast to the north-west onto the [[Atlantic Ocean]]. Much of the county is mountainous, and the western and northern coasts include many high [[sea cliffs]]. There are four [[National scenic area (Scotland)|national scenic areas]] wholly or partly in the county: [[Assynt-Coigach National Scenic Area|Assynt-Coigach]], [[North West Sutherland National Scenic Area|North West Sutherland]], [[Kyle of Tongue]] and [[Dornoch Firth]], with the first three of these lying along the western and northern coasts.

The county ceased to be used for local government purposes in 1975, when the area became part of the [[Highland (council area)|Highland]] region, which in turn became a single-tier [[Council areas of Scotland|council area]] in 1996. There was a [[Districts of Scotland|local government district]] called Sutherland from 1975 to 1996, which was a lower-tier district within the Highland region, covering a similar but not identical area to the pre-1975 county. The pre-1975 county boundaries are still used for certain functions, being a registration county. The neighbouring counties prior to the 1975 reforms were Caithness to the north-east and [[Ross and Cromarty]] to the south.

The Sutherland [[Lieutenancy areas of Scotland|lieutenancy area]] was redefined in 1975 to be the local government district. The registration county and the lieutenancy area therefore have slightly different definitions; the registration county does not include [[Kincardine (Ardgay and District)|Kincardine]], but the lieutenancy area does.

==History==
In [[Scottish Gaelic|Gaelic]], the area is referred to according to its traditional areas: ''{{lang|gd|Dùthaich MhicAoidh}}'' (or ''{{lang|gd|Dùthaich 'IcAoidh}}'') (MacAoidh's country) in the north (also known in English as Mackay Country), ''{{lang|gd|Asainte}}'' ([[Assynt]]) in the west, and ''{{lang|gd|Cataibh}}'' in the east. ''{{lang|gd|Cataibh}}'' is also sometimes used to refer to the area as a whole.{{efn|''Cataibh'' can be read as meaning ''among the Cats'' and the ''Cat'' element appears as ''Cait'' in ''Caithness''. The Scottish Gaelic name for Caithness, however, is ''Gallaibh'', meaning ''among the Strangers'' (i.e. the Norse who extensively settled there).}}

Much of the area that would become Sutherland was part of the ancient [[Picts|Pictish]] kingdom of [[Kingdom of Cat|Cat]], which also included Caithness. It was conquered in the 9th century by [[Sigurd Eysteinsson]], Jarl of Orkney. The Jarls owed allegiance to the [[Monarchy of Norway|Norwegian crown]]. It is possible that Sigurd may have taken [[Ross, Scotland|Ross]] to the south as well, but by the time of his death in 892 the southern limit of his territory appears to have been the [[River Oykel]]. The Scottish crown claimed the overlordship of the Caithness and Sutherland area from Norway in 1098. The Earls of Orkney thereafter owed allegiance to the Scottish crown for their territory on the mainland, which they held as the [[Mormaer of Caithness]], but owed allegiance to the Norwegian crown for Orkney.<ref name=Grant>{{cite book |last1=Grant |first1=Alexander |editor1-last=Cowan |editor1-first=Edward J. |editor2-last=McDonald |editor2-first=R. Andrew |title=Alba: Celtic Scotland in the Middle Ages |date=2000 |publisher=Tuckwell Press |location=East Linton |isbn=1 86232 151 5 |pages=98–110 |url=https://archive.org/details/albacelticscotla0000unse/page/98/mode/2up |access-date=28 August 2024 |chapter=The Province of Ross and the Kingdom of Alba}}</ref>

[[File:Dornoch Cathedral - geograph.org.uk - 2302398 (lightened).jpg|thumb|left|[[Dornoch Cathedral]]]]
The [[Diocese of Caithness]] was established in the 12th century. The bishop's seat was initially at [[Halkirk]], but in the early 13th century was moved to [[Dornoch Cathedral]], which was begun in 1224.<ref>{{Historic Environment Scotland|num= LB24632|desc= Dornoch Cathedral |access-date=23 September 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite book|last=Farmer|first=David Hugh|title=The Oxford Dictionary of Saints|year=1997|publisher=Oxford University Press Press|location=Oxford|isbn=0-19-280058-2|pages=208–209|edition=4}}</ref> Around the same time, a new earldom of Sutherland was created from the southern part of the old joint earldom of Orkney and Caithness.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Fraser |first1=William |title=The Sutherland Book |date=1892 |location=Edinburgh |page=1 |url=https://archive.org/details/sutherlandbook01fras/page/102/mode/2up |access-date=23 September 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |editor1-last=Pulsiano |editor1-first=Phillip |title=Medieval Scandinavia: An Encyclopedia |date=1993 |publisher=Garland Publishing |location=New York and London |isbn=0824047877 |pages=63–65 |url=https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/Medieval_Scandinavia/d-XiZO8V4qUC?hl=en&gbpv=1&pg=PA63&printsec=frontcover |access-date=23 September 2024}}</ref>

In terms of shires (areas where justice was administered by a [[Sheriff principal|sheriff]]), the north of mainland Scotland was all included in the [[Inverness-shire|shire of Inverness]] from the 12th century.<ref name=Grant/><ref>{{cite book |last1=Taylor |first1=Alice |title=The Shape of the State in Medieval Scotland, 1124–1290 |date=2016 |publisher=Oxford University Press |location=Oxford |isbn=9780198749202 |pages=144, 234–235 |url=https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/The_Shape_of_the_State_in_Medieval_Scotl/2XvnCwAAQBAJ?hl=en&gbpv=1&pg=PA144&printsec=frontcover |access-date=30 August 2024}}</ref> An act of parliament in 1504 acknowledged that the shire of Inverness was too big for the effective administration of justice, and so declared Ross and Caithness to be separate shires. The boundary used for the shire of Caithness created in 1504 was the diocese of Caithness, which included Sutherland. The [[Sheriff of Caithness]] was directed to hold courts at either Dornoch or [[Wick, Caithness|Wick]].<ref>{{cite web |last1=Brown |first1=Keith |title=Legislation: final legislation published outwith the parliamentary register, Edinburgh, 11 March 1504 |website=The Records of the Parliament of Scotland to 1707 |url=http://www.rps.ac.uk/trans/A1504/3/105 |publisher=University of St Andrews |access-date=30 August 2024}}</ref> That act was set aside for most purposes in 1509, and Caithness (including Sutherland) once more came under the sheriff of Inverness.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Brown |first1=Keith |title=Legislation, 8 May 1509 |website=The Records of the Parliament of Scotland to 1707 |url=http://www.rps.ac.uk/trans/A1509/5/3 |publisher=University of St Andrews |access-date=23 September 2024}}</ref>

In 1633 a new shire called Sutherland was created. It covered the earldom of Sutherland plus the provincial lordships of Strathnaver on the north coast and Assynt on the west coast. Dornoch was declared to be the head burgh of the new shire. The position of [[Sheriff of Sutherland]] was a hereditary one, held by the Earls of Sutherland.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Brown |first1=Keith |title=Act in favour of John Gordon, Earl of Sutherland, 28 June 1633 |website=The Records of the Parliament of Scotland to 1707 |url=http://www.rps.ac.uk/trans/1633/6/74 |publisher=University of St Andrews |access-date=23 September 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite book |last1=Chamberlayne |first1=John |title=Magnae Britanniae Notita: or, the Present State of Great Britain |date=1748 |location=London |page=314 |url=https://www.google.co.uk/books/edition/Magnae_Britanniae_Notitia/7re2keiml2YC?hl=en&gbpv=1&pg=PA314&printsec=frontcover |access-date=23 September 2024}}</ref>

Over time, Scotland's shires became more significant than the old provinces, with more administrative functions being given to the sheriffs. In 1667 [[Commissioners of Supply]] were established for each shire, which would serve as the main administrative body for the area until the creation of county councils in 1890. Following the [[Acts of Union 1707|Acts of Union]] in 1707, the English term 'county' came to be used interchangeably with the older term 'shire'.<ref>{{cite web |last1=Brown |first1=Keith |title=Act of the convention of estates of the kingdom of Scotland etc. for a new and voluntary offer to his majesty of £72,000 monthly for the space of twelve months, 23 January 1667 |url=http://www.rps.ac.uk/trans/1667/1/10 |website=Records of the Parliament of Scotland |publisher=University of St Andrews |access-date=25 February 2023}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Scottish Counties and Parishes: their history and boundaries on maps |url=https://maps.nls.uk/geo/boundaries/history.html |website=National Library of Scotland |access-date=2 September 2024}}</ref>

[[File:Dornoch, The Carnegie Courthouse information centre and cafe - geograph.org.uk - 5054062 (lightened).jpg|thumb|right|[[Dornoch Sheriff Court]]]]
Following the [[Jacobite rising of 1745]], the government passed the [[Heritable Jurisdictions (Scotland) Act 1746]], returning the appointment of sheriffs to the crown in those cases where they had become hereditary positions, as had been the case in Sutherland.<ref>{{cite journal |last1=Whetstone |first1=Ann E. |year= 1977|title=The Reform of the Scottish Sheriffdoms in the Eighteenth and Early Nineteenth Centuries |journal=Albion: A Quarterly Journal Concerned with British Studies |volume=9 |issue=1 |pages=61–71 |doi=10.2307/4048219 |jstor=4048219}}</ref> From 1748 the government merged the positions of Sheriff of Sutherland and Sheriff of Caithness into a single post. Although they shared a sheriff after 1748, Caithness and Sutherland remained legally separate counties, having their own commissioners of supply and, from 1794, their own [[Lord-lieutenant|lord lieutenants]].<ref>[[Sheriffs (Scotland) Act 1747]]</ref>

The sheriff courts for Sutherland were held at [[Dornoch Castle]] until 1850, when they moved to the purpose-built [[Dornoch Sheriff Court]], also known as 'County Buildings', which also served as the meeting place for the Sutherland Commissioners of Supply.<ref>{{Cite web |url=http://www.theoldhometown.com/historylinksarchive.org.uk/pictures/document/5360.pdf |title=Dornoch Castle A Brief History |access-date=19 July 2011 |archive-date=4 October 2011 |page=8|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20111004043010/http://www.theoldhometown.com/historylinksarchive.org.uk/pictures/document/5360.pdf |url-status=usurped }}</ref><ref>{{Historic Environment Scotland|num=LB24637|desc= Former Dornoch County Buildings and Court House, Castle Street, Dornoch |cat=B|access-date=17 September 2024}}</ref>

===Highland Clearances===
{{main|Highland Clearances}}
[[File:Abandoned House in Glen Loth, Sutherland - geograph.org.uk - 6350227.jpg|thumb|Abandoned house in Glen [[Lothbeg|Loth]]]]
Sutherland, like other parts of the Highlands, was affected by the [[Highland Clearances]], the eviction of tenants from their homes and/or associated farmland in the 18th and 19th centuries century by the landowners. Typically, this was to make way for large sheep farms.  The Sutherland Estate (consisting of about two thirds of the county) had the largest scale clearances that occurred in the Highlands, much of this being carried out in 1812, 1814 and 1819–20. In this last period (the largest of the three listed), 1,068 families were evicted: representing an estimated 5,400 people. This population was provided with resettlement in coastal areas, with employment available in fishing or other industries. However, many instead moved to farms in Caithness or left Scotland to emigrate to Canada, the US or Australia.<ref name="Richards 2013">{{cite book|last1=Richards|first1=Eric|title=The Highland Clearances People, Landlords and Rural Turmoil|date=2000|publisher=Birlinn Limited|location=Edinburgh|isbn=978-1-78027-165-1|edition=2013}}</ref> The population has continued to decline since the mid-19th century.<ref name=VoB/>

One effect of the clearances was that it concentrated Gaelic speakers in the newly created fishing villages, so extending the survival of the language in these communities. The area on Sutherland's east coast around Golspie, Brora and [[Embo, Sutherland|Embo]] had its own dialect, [[East Sutherland Gaelic]].<ref>{{cite book |last1=Dorian |first1=Nancy C. |title=Investigating Variation: The effects of social organization and social setting |date=2010 |publisher=Oxford University Press |location=Oxford |pages=40–42 |url=https://archive.org/details/investigatingvar0000dori/page/40/mode/2up?q=clearance |access-date=25 September 2024}}</ref> This was the last area on the east coast of Scotland where a Gaelic dialect was commonly spoken. Work by the linguist [[Nancy Dorian]] from the 1960s onwards studied the gradual decline of East Sutherland Gaelic.<ref>[http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7647046783946085652] {{webarchive|url=https://web.archive.org/web/20110418021411/http://video.google.com/videoplay?docid=7647046783946085652|date=18 April 2011}}</ref> The last known native speaker of the dialect died in 2020.<ref name="Wilma Ros">{{cite news |title=Wilma Ros, Eurabol, air bàsachadh |url=https://www.bbc.com/naidheachdan/42150024 |access-date=4 September 2018 |work=BBC Naidheachdan |date=28 November 2017}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=ROSS |url=https://www.northern-times.co.uk/family-notices/death-notices/ross-aa110327-v1-27/ |website=Northern Times |access-date=10 November 2023 |language=en |date=2020}}</ref>

===County council===
{{See also|Politics of the Highland council area}}
[[File:Sutherland coat of arms.png|thumb|right|150px|Coat of arms of the former Sutherland County Council, granted 1957<ref>{{cite book |last1=Urquhart |first1=Robert Mackenzie |title=Scottish Burgh and County History |date=1973 |page=59 |url=https://www.historylinksarchive.org.uk/pictures/document/12115.pdf?r=1245501 |access-date=24 September 2024}}</ref>]]
Elected county councils were established in 1890 under the [[Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889]], taking most of the functions of the commissioners of supply (which were eventually abolished in 1930). The first provisional meeting of the council was held on 13 February 1890 at the County Buildings in Dornoch, but it was decided that a more accessible location was needed for the council's meetings. 

Although Dornoch was the county's only [[burgh]], it was in the extreme southeastern corner of the county and lay some seven miles from its then nearest railway station at [[The Mound railway station|The Mound]].<ref>{{cite news |title=Sutherland County Council |url=https://www.findmypast.co.uk/search-newspapers |access-date=17 September 2024 |work=Highland News |date=15 February 1890 |location=Inverness |page=3}}</ref> The council's first official meeting was held on 22 May 1890 at [[Bonar Bridge]], and subsequent meetings were generally held in [[Lairg]], with occasional meetings in other places, including Dornoch, Golspie, [[Brora]] and [[Lochinver]].<ref>{{cite news |title=Sutherland County Council |url=https://www.findmypast.co.uk/search-newspapers |access-date=17 September 2024 |work=Inverness Courier |date=23 May 1890 |page=5}}</ref>

[[File:County Offices, Golspie.jpg|thumb|left|[[County Offices, Golspie]]: Main offices of Sutherland County Council, built 1892]]
Although the county council generally met in Lairg, from its creation in 1890 the county council's clerk was based in Golspie, and in 1892 the council moved its main administrative offices to a new building on Main Street in Golspie called [[County Offices, Golspie|County Offices]], initially sharing the building with the village post office.<ref>{{cite news |title=Notes from Golspie |url=https://www.findmypast.co.uk/search-newspapers |access-date=17 September 2024 |work=Northern Ensign |date=13 December 1892 |location=Wick |page=3}}</ref><ref>{{London Gazette|issue=18541|page=179|date=3 March 1967|city=e}}</ref><ref>{{cite web|url=https://cosuthgolspie.blogspot.com/2016/02/main-street-101-to-end.html|title=Main Street|access-date=16 September 2024}}</ref>

The 1889 Act also led to a review of boundaries, with parish and county boundaries being adjusted to eliminate cases where parishes straddled county boundaries. The parish of [[Reay]] had straddled Sutherland and Caithness prior to the act; the county boundary was retained, but the part of Reay parish in Sutherland was transferred to the parish of [[Farr, Sutherland|Farr]] in 1891.<ref name=Hay>{{cite book |last1=Shennan |first1=Hay |title=Boundaries of counties and parishes in Scotland as settled by the Boundary Commissioners under the Local Government (Scotland) Act 1889 |date=1892 |publisher=W. Green |location=Edinburgh |page=130 |url=https://archive.org/details/bub_gb_meygAAAAMAAJ/page/n167/mode/2up |access-date=10 September 2024}}</ref>

===Since 1975===
[[File:The harbour at Helmsdale - geograph.org.uk - 115307.jpg|right|thumb|The harbour at [[Helmsdale]]]]
Local government was reformed in 1975 under the [[Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973]], which replaced Scotland's counties, burghs and [[landward district]]s with a two-tier structure of upper-tier regions and lower-tier districts. Sutherland became part of the [[Highland Region]]. At the district level, most of Sutherland was included in the '''Sutherland District'''. The differences between the post-1975 district and the pre-1975 county were that the district excluded the parishes of [[Farr, Sutherland|Farr]] and [[Tongue, Sutherland|Tongue]] (which both went to the Caithness district), but included the parish of [[Kincardine (Ardgay and District)|Kincardine]] from Ross and Cromarty.<ref name=1973act>{{cite legislation UK|type=act|act=Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973|year=1973|chapter=65|accessdate=17 April 2023}}</ref><ref name=OSsheet3>{{cite web |title=Quarter-inch Administrative Areas Maps: Scotland, Sheet 3, 1968 |url=https://maps.nls.uk/view/222075455 |website=National Library of Scotland |publisher=Ordnance Survey |access-date=24 September 2024}}</ref><ref>{{London Gazette|issue=14590|page=1188|date=11 October 1929|city=e}}</ref> The transfer of Farr and Tongue to Caithness district was not popular; less than two years later, in 1977, they were transferred to the Sutherland district, after which the border between the Sutherland and Caithness districts followed the pre-1975 county boundary.<ref>{{cite legislation UK|type=si|si=The Caithness and Sutherland Districts (Tongue and Farr) Boundaries Order 1977|year=1977|number=14|access-date=1 August 2024}}</ref>

As part of the 1975 reforms, the area served by the [[Lord Lieutenant of Sutherland]] was redefined to be the new district, having previously been the county.<ref name=1975order>{{cite legislation UK|type=si|si=The Lord-Lieutenants Order 1975|year=1975|number=428|access-date=1 September 2024}}</ref>

Sutherland District Council was based at the former county council's headquarters at the County Offices in Golspie.<ref>{{London Gazette|issue=23939|page=397|date=20 February 1996|city=e}}</ref> Throughout the district's existence from 1975 to 1996, a majority of the seats were held by [[Independent politician|independent]] councillors.<ref name=compositions>{{cite web |title=Compositions Calculator |url=https://www.electionscentre.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2016/03/composition_calc.html |access-date=21 May 2025 |website=The Elections Centre |publisher=University of Exeter}} (Put "Sutherland" in search box to see specific results.)</ref>

[[File:County boundary marker - geograph.org.uk - 482808.jpg|thumb|County boundary sign on the [[A9 road (Scotland)|A9]] north-east of Helmsdale]]
Further local government reforms in 1996 under the [[Local Government etc. (Scotland) Act 1994]] saw the regions and districts created in 1975 abolished and replaced with single-tier [[council area]]s. The former Highland region became one of the new council areas.<ref>{{cite legislation UK|type=act|act=Local Government etc. (Scotland) Act 1994|year=1994|chapter=39|accessdate=17 April 2023}}</ref> The Sutherland [[Lieutenancy areas of Scotland|lieutenancy area]] continues to be defined as the area of the pre-1996 district, despite the abolition of the district itself.<ref>{{cite legislation UK|type=si|si=The Lord-Lieutenants (Scotland) Order 1996|year=1996|number=731|access-date=1 September 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Lord-Lieutenant of Sutherland |url=https://www.lordlieutenantsutherland.co.uk/ |access-date=24 September 2024}}</ref> The boundaries of the historic county (as it was following the 1891 boundary changes) are still used for some limited official purposes connected with land registration, being a [[registration county]].<ref>{{cite web |url=https://www.ros.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0017/14921/LandMassCoverageReport2015-proofed.pdf |title=Land Mass Coverage Report |publisher=Registers of Scotland |access-date=2015-05-16 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20160303232505/https://www.ros.gov.uk/__data/assets/pdf_file/0017/14921/LandMassCoverageReport2015-proofed.pdf |archive-date=3 March 2016 |url-status=dead }}</ref>

The [[Highland Council]] has an [[area committee]] called the Sutherland County Committee, comprising the councillors representing the wards which approximately cover the Sutherland area. The council also marks some of the historic county boundaries with road signs.<ref>{{cite web |title=Sutherland County Committee |url=https://www.highland.gov.uk/info/20003/committee_information/670/sutherland_county_committee |website=The Highland Council |access-date=24 September 2024}}</ref>

==Geography==
{{multiple image |direction = vertical |total_width = 250
|image1 = Suilven2.JPG | caption1 = [[Suilven]] from the Glencanisp Lodge path
|image2 = Sandwoodbay.jpg | caption2 = [[Sandwood Bay]]
}}
[[File:CapeWrathFromSeawardByColinWheatleyFeb2007.jpg|thumb|225px|[[Cape Wrath]] from the sea]]
Much of the population of approximately 13,000 inhabitants are situated in small coastal communities, such as [[Helmsdale]] and [[Lochinver]], which until very recently made much of their living from the rich fishing of the waters around the [[British Isles]]. Much of Sutherland is poor relative to the rest of the UK, with few job opportunities beyond government-funded employment, agriculture and seasonal tourism. Further education is provided by [[North Highland College]], part of the [[University of the Highlands and Islands]], which has campuses in Dornoch.<ref>{{Cite web|url=https://www.uhi.ac.uk/en/research-enterprise/cultural/centre-for-history/|title=Centre for History - University of the Highlands and Islands|website=www.uhi.ac.uk|access-date=15 February 2019|archive-date=15 February 2019|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20190215215837/https://www.uhi.ac.uk/en/research-enterprise/cultural/centre-for-history/|url-status=live}}</ref>

The inland landscape is rugged and very sparsely populated. Despite being Scotland's fifth-largest county in terms of area, it has a smaller population than a medium-size Lowland Scottish town. It stretches from the [[Atlantic]] in the west, up to the [[Pentland Firth]] and across to the [[North Sea]] in the east. The west and north coasts have very high sea cliffs and deep [[sea lochs]]. The east coast contains the sea lochs of [[Loch Fleet]] and [[Dornoch Firth]]. [[Cape Wrath]] is the most northwesterly point in Scotland. Several peninsulas can be found along the north and west coasts, most notably [[Strathy Point]], [[A' Mhòine]], [[Durness]]/[[Faraid Head]] (the latter two formed by the [[Kyle of Durness]], [[Loch Eriboll]] and the [[Kyle of Tongue]]), Ceathramh Garbh (formed by [[Loch Laxford]] and Loch Inchard), and [[Stoer Head]]. The county has numerous beaches, a remote example being [[Sandwood Bay]], which can only be reached by foot along a rough track.

Sutherland has many rugged [[mountains]] such as [[Ben Hope]], the most northerly [[Munro]], and [[Ben More Assynt]], the tallest peak in the county at 998&nbsp;m (3,274&nbsp;ft). The western part comprises [[Torridonian sandstone]] underlain by [[Lewisian complex|Lewisian gneiss]]. The spectacular scenery has been created by [[denudation]] to form isolated sandstone peaks such as [[Foinaven]], [[Arkle (hill)|Arkle]], [[Cùl Mòr]] and [[Suilven]]. Such [[mountains]] are attractive for [[hill walking]] and [[scrambling]], despite their remote location. Together with similar peaks to the south in [[Wester Ross]], such as [[Stac Pollaidh]], they have a unique structure with great scope for exploration. On the other hand, care is needed when bad weather occurs owing to their isolation and the risks of injury.

The county contains numerous [[List of lochs of Scotland|lochs]], some of which have been enlarged to serve as reservoirs. The larger inland lochs are:{{efn|Being the lochs (excluding sea lochs) shown on modern Ordnance Survey 1:50,000 maps labelled in all capital letters.}}
{{div col|colwidth=15em}}
*[[Loch Assynt]]
*[[Loch Choire]]
*[[Loch Hope]]
*[[Loch Loyal]]
*Loch Meadie
*[[Loch More]]
*[[Loch Naver]]
*[[Loch Shin]]
{{div col end}}

Owing to its isolation from the rest of the country, Sutherland was reputedly the last haunt of the native [[wolf]], the last survivor being shot in the 18th century. However, other wildlife has survived, including the [[golden eagle]], [[sea eagle]] and [[pine marten]] amongst other species which are very rare in the rest of the country. There are pockets of the native [[Scots Pine]], remnants of the original [[Caledonian Forest]].

The importance of the county's scenery is recognised by the fact that four of Scotland's forty [[National scenic area (Scotland)|national scenic areas]] (NSAs) are located here.<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.gov.scot/Resource/Doc/1051/0058088.pdf|title=Map: National Scenic Areas of Scotland|publisher=Scottish Government|date=1998|access-date=2018-05-16|archive-date=10 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180110132141/http://www.gov.scot/Resource/Doc/1051/0058088.pdf|url-status=dead}}</ref> The purpose of the NSA designation is to identify areas of exceptional scenery and to ensure its protection from inappropriate development. The areas protected by the designation are considered to represent the type of scenic beauty "popularly associated with Scotland and for which it is renowned".<ref>{{cite web|url=http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas|title=Countryside and Landscape in Scotland - National Scenic Areas|publisher=Scottish Government|date=2017-07-04|access-date=2018-01-31|archive-date=31 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180131201226/http://www.gov.scot/Topics/Environment/Countryside/Heritage/Areas|url-status=dead}}</ref> The four NSAs within Sutherland are:

* The [[Assynt]]-[[Coigach]] NSA has many distinctively shaped mountains, including [[Quinag]], [[Canisp]], [[Suilven]], [[Cùl Mòr]], [[Stac Pollaidh]] and [[Ben More Assynt]], that rise steeply from the surrounding "cnoc and lochan" scenery.  These can often appear higher than their actual height would indicate due to their steep sides and the contrast with the moorland from which they rise.<ref name=nsa>{{cite web|url=https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2017-07/Publication%202010%20-%20SNH%20Commissioned%20Report%20374%20-%20The%20Special%20Qualities%20of%20the%20National%20Scenic%20Areas.pdf|title=The special qualities of the National Scenic Areas|publisher=Scottish Natural Heritage|date=2010|access-date=2018-01-24|archive-date=25 January 2018|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20180125015417/https://www.nature.scot/sites/default/files/2017-07/Publication%202010%20-%20SNH%20Commissioned%20Report%20374%20-%20The%20Special%20Qualities%20of%20the%20National%20Scenic%20Areas.pdf|url-status=live}}</ref> Assynt lies within Sutherland, whilst Coigach lies within [[Ross and Cromarty]].
* The [[Dornoch Firth]] NSA also straddles the boundary between Sutherland and Ross and Cromarty, and covers a variety of landscapes surrounding the narrow and sinuous [[firth]].<ref name="nsa"/>
* The [[Kyle of Tongue]] NSA covers the mountains of [[Ben Hope]] and [[Ben Loyal]], as well as woodlands and [[crofting]] settlements on the shoreline of the kyle itself.<ref name="nsa"/>
* The [[North West Sutherland National Scenic Area|North West Sutherland NSA]] covers the mountains of [[Foinaven]], [[Arkle (Sutherland)|Arkle]] and [[Ben Stack]] as well as the coastal scenery surrounding [[Loch Laxford]] and [[Handa Island]].<ref name="nsa"/>

Sutherland includes numerous small islands, generally lying close to the coast of the mainland. None are now inhabited, although some formerly were, notably including [[Eilean Hoan]] in [[Loch Eriboll]],<ref>{{cite web |title=Eilean Hoan |url=https://canmore.org.uk/site/86191/eilean-hoan |website=Canmore |publisher=Historic Environment Scotland |access-date=25 September 2024}}</ref> [[Eilean nan Ròn]] off the north coast near [[Skerray]],<ref>{{cite web |title=Eilean Nan Ron|url=https://canmore.org.uk/site/73975/eilean-nan-ron |website=Canmore |publisher=Historic Environment Scotland |access-date=25 September 2024}}</ref> and [[Handa Island]] in [[Eddrachillis Bay]].<ref>{{cite web |title=Handa Island |url=https://canmore.org.uk/site/4584/handa-island |website=Canmore |publisher=Historic Environment Scotland |access-date=25 September 2024}}</ref>

==Population==
{{Historical populations
|title=Historical Sutherland population
|type=Scotland
|1801|23,117
|1811|23,629
|1821|23,840
|1831|25,518
|1841|24,782
|1851|25,793
|1861|24,157
|1871|23,298
|1881|22,376
|1891|21,896
|1901|21,440
|1911|20,179
|1921|17,802
|1931|16,101
|1951|13,670
|1961|13,507
|1971|13,055
|2011|12,803
}}
The parishes which make up the registration county (being the pre-1975 county) had a population of 12,803 at the [[2011 United Kingdom census|2011 census]]. The Sutherland lieutenancy area (additionally including Kincardine) had a population of 13,451.<ref>{{cite web |title=2011 census table data: Civil Parish 1930 |url=https://www.scotlandscensus.gov.uk/documents/2011-census-table-data-civil-parish-1930/ |website=Scotland's Census |access-date=15 September 2024}}</ref>

The population peaked at just under 26,000 in the 1851 census, but has been in decline since then.<ref name=VoB>{{cite web |title=Sutherland Scottish County |url=https://visionofbritain.org.uk/unit/10170102/cube/TOT_POP |website=A Vision of Britain through Time |publisher=GB Historical GIS / University of Portsmouth |access-date=24 September 2024}}</ref>

==Transport==
[[File:Test train at Rogart heading for Thurso and Wick (geograph 5316506).jpg|right|thumb|250px|[[Rogart railway station]] on the [[Far North Line]]]]

The [[A9 road (Great Britain)|A9 road]] main east coast road is challenging north of Helmsdale, particularly at the notorious [[Berriedale Braes]], and there are few inland roads. The [[Far North Line]] north-south single-track railway line was extended through Sutherland by the [[Highland Railway]] between 1868 and 1871. It enters Sutherland near Invershin and runs along the east coast as far as possible, but an inland diversion was necessary from Helmsdale along the [[Strath of Kildonan]]. The line exits to the east of [[Forsinard]].

[[Helmsdale]] on the east coast is on the A9 road, at a junction with the A897, and has a railway station on the Far North Line. Buses operate about every two hours Mondays-Saturdays and infrequently on Sundays from Helmsdale to [[Brora]], [[Golspie]], [[Dornoch]], [[Tain]] and [[Inverness]] in the south, and Berriedale, Dunbeath, Halkirk, Thurso and Scrabster in the north.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://tiscon-maps-stagecoachbus.s3.amazonaws.com/Timetables/North%20Scotland/Highlands/Caithness-Guide-20AUG18-WEB.pdf |title=Stagecoach North Scotland - Caithness and Sutherland Area Guide from 20 August 2018 |access-date=23 June 2019 }}{{Dead link|date=November 2023 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> These are on route X99 and are operated by [[Stagecoach Group]], but tickets can be bought on the Citylink website. Various other Stagecoach buses link the other towns of eastern Sutherland, such as Lairg and Bonar Bridge to Tain and Inverness.<ref>{{cite web |url=https://tiscon-maps-stagecoachbus.s3.amazonaws.com/Timetables/North%20Scotland/Highlands/Black%20Isle%207th%20Jan%20updated%2027%20Dec%2018%20Web.pdf |title=Stagecoach North Scotland - Black Isle and Easter Ross Travel Guide from 07 January 2019 |access-date=23 June 2019 }}{{Dead link|date=February 2024 |bot=InternetArchiveBot |fix-attempted=yes }}</ref> The western areas of the county are less well served by public transport, however the Far North Bus company does provided scheduled services connecting Durness to Lairg (bus 806), and from Durness to Thurso via the towns of the north Sutherland coast (bus 803).<ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.thedurnessbus.com/ |title=The Durness Bus |access-date=23 June 2019 |archive-date=12 May 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210512171701/http://www.thedurnessbus.com/ |url-status=live }}</ref>

There are no commercial airports in the county. There is a small general aviation airstrip south of Dornoch, the former RAF Dornoch, which sees little traffic.<ref>{{cite web |title=Dornoch |url=https://www.forgottenairfields.com/airfield-dornoch-893.html |website=Abandoned Forgotten & Little Known Airfields in Europe |publisher=www.forgottenairfields.com |access-date=13 August 2021 |archive-date=13 August 2021 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20210813101058/https://www.forgottenairfields.com/airfield-dornoch-893.html |url-status=live }}</ref>

==Civil parishes==
{{further|List of civil parishes in Scotland}}
[[File:1861 SUTHERLANDSHIRE.jpg|thumb|right|350px|An 1861 map of Sutherland, with its parishes outlined in red]]
Parishes existed from medieval times. From 1845 to 1894 they had parish boards and from 1894 to 1930 they had parish councils. They have had no administrative functions since 1930, but continue to be used for the presentation of statistics.<ref>{{cite web |title=Civil Parishes |url=https://spatialdata.gov.scot/geonetwork/srv/api/records/d93dbde9-6936-4245-9938-0ef41a5cc0e4 |website=National Records of Scotland |access-date=15 September 2024}}</ref>

Following the 1891 parish boundary changes, Sutherland contained the following civil parishes:<ref name=OSsheet3/><ref>{{cite web |url=http://www.oldroadsofscotland.com/stataccsutherland.htm |title=Old Roads of Scotland |publisher=Old Roads of Scotland |access-date=2014-10-01 |archive-date=30 April 2015 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20150430183008/http://www.oldroadsofscotland.com/stataccsutherland.htm |url-status=live }}</ref>

{{div col|colwidth=15em}}
*[[Assynt]]
*[[Brora|Clyne]]
*[[Creich, Sutherland|Creich]]
*[[Dornoch]] (included burgh of same name)
*[[Durness]]
*[[Eddrachillis]]
*[[Farr, Sutherland|Farr]]
*[[Golspie]]
*[[Kildonan, Sutherland|Kildonan]]
*[[Lairg]]
*[[Lothbeg|Loth]]
*[[Rogart]]
*[[Tongue, Highland|Tongue]]
{{div col end}}

Eddrachillis and Tongue were formerly part of Durness parish, being separated in 1724.<ref>{{Cite web|last=GENUKI|title=Genuki: Durness, Sutherland|url=https://www.genuki.org.uk/big/sct/SUT/Durness|access-date=2021-01-30|website=www.genuki.org.uk|language=en|archive-date=24 November 2020|archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20201124154129/https://www.genuki.org.uk/big/sct/SUT/Durness|url-status=live}}</ref> The other eleven parishes are ancient in origin.

=== Community councils ===
[[Community council]]s were created in 1975 under the [[Local Government (Scotland) Act 1973]]. They have no statutory powers, but serve as a representative body for their communities. The Highland Council designates community council areas, but a community council is only formed if there is sufficient interest from the residents. Following a review in 2019, Sutherland comprised the following communities, all of which have community councils as at 2024:<ref>{{cite web |title=Community Councils in the Highland Council area |url=https://highland.maps.arcgis.com/apps/instant/sidebar/index.html?appid=c2d1be61708c43929ea239823d1248a5 |website=The Highland Council |access-date=25 September 2024}}</ref><ref>{{cite web |title=Scheme review 2018/2019 |url=https://www.highland.gov.uk/info/772/politicians_elections_and_democracy/364/community_councils/7 |website=The Highland Council |access-date=25 September 2024}}</ref>
{{div col|colwidth=15em}}
*[[Ardgay and District]]{{efn|Ardgay and District (corresponding to the historic parish of Kincardine) is in the Sutherland lieutenancy area, but is not within the registration county or historic county of Sutherland, having been part of Ross and Cromarty prior to 1975.}}
*[[Assynt]]
*[[Bettyhill]], [[Strathnaver]] and [[Altnaharra]]
*[[Brora]]
*[[Creich, Sutherland|Creich]]
*[[Dornoch]]
*[[Durness]]
*[[Helmsdale]]
*[[Golspie]]
*[[Kinlochbervie]]
*[[Lairg]]
*[[Melvich]]
*[[Rogart]]
*[[Scourie]]
*[[Strathy, Ardross|Strathy]] and [[Armadale, Sutherland|Armadale]]
*[[Tongue, Sutherland|Tongue]]
{{div col end}}

==Settlements==
{{multiple image
|total_width=450
|image1=Village of Lairg in the Highlands.jpg|caption1=Lairg
|image2=Tongue, Highland, Scotland.jpg|caption2=Tongue
}}
{{Columns-list|colwidth=10em|
*[[Achriesgill]]
*[[Altnaharra]]
*[[Armadale, Sutherland|Armadale]]
*[[Assynt]]
*[[Bettyhill]]
*[[Bonar Bridge]]
*[[Brora]]
*[[Clashmore, Assynt|Clashmore]]
*[[Creich, Sutherland|Creich]]
*[[Dornoch]]
*[[Drumbeg, Sutherland|Drumbeg]]
*[[Durness]]
*[[Embo (village)|Embo]]
*[[Evelix]]
*[[Golspie]]
*[[Helmsdale]]
*[[Inchnadamph]]
*[[Invershin]]
*[[Kildonan, Sutherland|Kildonan]]
*[[Kinbrace]]
*[[Kinlochbervie]]
*[[Lairg]]
*[[Lochinver]]
*[[Melvich]]
*[[Portgower]]
*[[Portskerra]]
*[[Pulrossie]]
*[[Rogart]]
*[[Rosehall]]
*[[Scourie]]
*[[Skerray]]
*[[Stoer]]
*[[Strathy]]
*[[Tongue, Highland|Tongue]]
}}

== Constituency ==
{{main|Sutherland (UK Parliament constituency)}}

The Sutherland constituency of the [[United Kingdom House of Commons|House of Commons]] of the [[Parliament of the United Kingdom]] represented the county from 1708 to 1918. The constituency excluded the burgh of [[Dornoch]], which was represented as a component of the [[Northern Burghs (disambiguation)|Northern Burghs]]<!--intentional link to DAB page--> constituency. In 1918 the Sutherland constituency and Dornoch were merged into the then new constituency of [[Caithness and Sutherland (UK Parliament constituency)|Caithness and Sutherland]]. In 1997 Caithness and Sutherland was merged into [[Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross (UK Parliament constituency)|Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross]].

The [[Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross (Scottish Parliament constituency)|Scottish Parliament constituency of Caithness, Sutherland and Easter Ross]] was created in 1999 for the newly established parliament. The constituency was extended for the 2011 election to include more of [[Ross-shire]], and was so renamed [[Caithness, Sutherland and Ross (Scottish Parliament constituency)|Caithness, Sutherland and Ross]]. In the [[Scottish Parliament]], Sutherland is represented also as part of the [[Highlands and Islands (Scottish Parliament electoral region)|Highlands and Islands]] [[Scottish Parliament constituencies and regions|electoral region]].

==Flag==
{{main|Flag of Sutherland}}
In 2018 a flag was adopted for Sutherland, following a competition organised by the Lord Lieutenant of Sutherland. The winning design has black lines on a white background, arranged as an overlapping [[saltire]] and [[Nordic cross flag|Nordic cross]], representing combined Scottish and Norwegian heritage. A gold star representing the sun is formed where the lines intersect.<ref>{{cite news |last1=McMorran |first1=Caroline |title=County's flag finally flying but public opinion still split |url=https://www.northern-times.co.uk/news/countys-flag-finally-flying-but-public-opinion-still-split-175245/ |access-date=25 September 2024 |work=Northern Times |date=21 December 2018}}</ref>

==Sutherland in popular culture==
{{Unreferenced section|date=November 2023}}
In [[M. C. Beaton]]'s [[Hamish Macbeth]] mystery series, the fictional towns of Lochdubh and Strathbane are located in Sutherland.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Beaton |first=M.C. |title=Hamish Macbeth Omnibus (Books 1-4) |date=17 May 2012 |publisher=Little, Brown Book Group |isbn=9781780339764}}</ref>

[[Rosamunde Pilcher]]'s last novel ''Winter Solstice'' is largely set in and around the fictional Sutherland town of Creagan, located in the Sutherland town of Dornoch.<ref>{{Cite book |last=Pilcher |first=Rosamunde |title=Winter Solstice |date=11 December 2008 |publisher=Hodder & Stoughton |isbn=9781848941199}}</ref>

The ship captained by [[Horatio Hornblower]] in [[C. S. Forester]]’s book ''[[A Ship of the Line]]'' is called HMS ''Sutherland''.

The short story "[[Fragile Things|Monarch of the Glen]]" by [[Neil Gaiman]] is set in Sutherland, and includes a discussion on the origin of the name.

It is still common to refer to the entire Gaelic-speaking world with the phrase "Ó Chataibh go Cléire" (from Sutherland to [[Cape Clear Island|Cape Clear]]) or "Ó Chataibh go Ciarraí" (from Sutherland to Kerry). Cléire and Ciarraí are Gaelic-speaking regions in the far south-west of Ireland.

==Notable people with Sutherland connections==
* [[George Mackay Brown]] (1921–1996), "Bard of Orkney", whose mother was born in Strathy
* [[John Lennon]] (1940–1980), a frequent visitor to Durness
* [[Norman MacCaig]] (1910–1996), Edinburgh-born poet, who wrote about the region of Assynt, which he visited many times over a period of forty years.
* [[Patrick Sellar]] (1780–1851), lawyer and factor
* [[W. C. Sellar]] (1898–1951), humourist who wrote for ''Punch'', best known for the book ''1066 and All That''
* [[William Young Sellar]] (1825–1890), classical scholar
* [[Joe Strummer]] (1952–2002), frontman of the Clash; born John Graham Mellor in Ankara, Turkey; his mother, Anna Mackenzie, was a crofter's daughter born and raised in Bonar Bridge
* [[Donald Ross (golfer)|Donald Ross]] (1872–1948), golfer and golf course designer, born in Dornoch. Ross's most famous designs are Pinehurst No. 2, Aronimink Golf Club, East Lake Golf Club, Seminole Golf Club, Oak Hill Country Club, Glen View Club, Memphis Country Club, Inverness Club, Miami Biltmore Golf Course and Oakland Hills Country Club; all in the United States of America.

==See also==
* [[Clan Sutherland]]
* [[List of counties of Scotland 1890–1975]]
* [[Bishop of Caithness|Medieval Diocese of Caithness]]
* [[Politics of the Highland council area]]
* [[Subdivisions of Scotland]]

==Footnotes==
{{Reflist}}
{{notelist}}

==Bibliography==
* {{Cite book |last=Omand |first=Donald |year=1991 |title=The Sutherland Book |location=Golspie, Scotland, UK |publisher=The Northern Times Limited |isbn=1-873610-00-9}}

==External links==
{{Commons category|Sutherland}}
* {{cite web |url= http://www.highland.gov.uk/NR/rdonlyres/FCA4438E-B5DB-476A-AAF8-1D263436B86B/0/bn4sape2004.pdf#search=%22highland%20sutherland%20population%202001%22 |title= Small Area Population Estimates 2004 |url-status= dead |archive-url= https://web.archive.org/web/20090326020609/http://www.highland.gov.uk/NR/rdonlyres/FCA4438E-B5DB-476A-AAF8-1D263436B86B/0/bn4sape2004.pdf#search=%22highland%20sutherland%20population%202001%22 |archive-date= 2009-03-26 }}&nbsp;{{small|(412&nbsp;KB)}} (www.highland.gov.uk)
* [[Charlotte Louisa Hawkins Dempster|Miss Dempster]] "[[s:The Folk-Lore Journal/Volume 6/Folk-Lore of Sutherlandshire (September)|Folk-Lore of Sutherlandshire]]" ''Folk-Lore Journal''. Volume 6, 1888.

{{Scottish provinces|major}}
{{Scotland counties}}
{{Former local government regions of Scotland}}
{{Authority control}}

[[Category:Sutherland| ]]
[[Category:Counties of the United Kingdom (1801–1922)]]
[[Category:Districts of Scotland]]
[[Category:Former counties of Scotland]]
[[Category:Lieutenancy areas of Scotland]]