imported>JJMC89 bot III: Moving :Category:American cosmetics businesspeople to :Category:American businesspeople in the cosmetics industry per Wikipedia:Categories for discussion/Speedy

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Moving Category:American cosmetics businesspeople to Category:American businesspeople in the cosmetics industry per Wikipedia:Categories for discussion/Speedy

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{{citations needed|date=October 2022}}
{{Redirect|Florence Graham|the community in Los Angeles|Florence-Graham, California}}
{{short description|Canadian-American businesswoman}}
{{Other uses|Elizabeth Arden (disambiguation)}}
{{About|the businesswoman|the company|Elizabeth Arden, Inc.}}
{{Use mdy dates|date=October 2018}}
{{Infobox person
| name = Elizabeth Arden
| image = Elizabeth Arden NYWTS.jpg
| image_size =
| caption = Arden in 1939
| birth_name = Florence Nightingale Graham
| birth_date = {{Birth date|1881|12|31}}
| birth_place = [[Woodbridge, Ontario]], Canada
| death_date = {{Death date and age|1966|10|18|1881|12|31}}
| death_place = [[New York, New York]], U.S.
| resting_place = [[Sleepy Hollow Cemetery]], [[Sleepy Hollow, New York|Sleepy Hollow]], New York, U.S.
| other_names = Elizabeth N. Graham
| spouses = {{plainlist|
* {{marriage|Thomas Jenkins Lewis|1915|1934|end=divorce}}
* {{marriage|Prince Michael Evlanoff|1942|1944|end=divorce}}<ref name=thoughtco/>
}}
| occupation = Businesswoman (cosmetics)<br />Racehorse owner/breeder
}}
'''Elizabeth Arden''' (December 31, 1881 – October 18, 1966), also known as '''Elizabeth N. Graham''',<ref name=encyclopedia>{{Cite encyclopedia|url=https://www.encyclopedia.com/women/encyclopedias-almanacs-transcripts-and-maps/arden-elizabeth-1878-1966|title=Arden, Elizabeth (1878–1966)|encyclopedia=encyclopedia.com|access-date=May 27, 2023}}</ref> was a [[Canadian Americans|Canadian-American]] businesswoman who founded what is now [[Elizabeth Arden, Inc.]], and built a cosmetics empire in the United States.

==Background==
She was born '''Florence Nightingale Graham''' on her family's farm in [[Woodbridge, Ontario|Woodbridge]], [[Ontario]], Canada. She played with her birth date, but although her birth record seems to have disappeared, census records and a statutory declaration by her older brother, William Pearce Graham (1877–1959), both put the date at 1881. The property is currently home to the Vaughan Grove community. Her parents had immigrated to Canada from [[Cornwall]], United Kingdom, in the 1870s. Her father, William Graham, was [[Scottish people|Scottish]]; her mother, Susan (née Tadd), was [[Cornish people|Cornish]] and had arranged for a wealthy aunt in Cornwall to pay for her children's education.<ref>{{cite book |last1=Sawyers |first1=June Skinner |title=Famous Firsts of Scottish-Americans |date=1996 |publisher=Pelican Publishing Company |isbn=978-1-56554-122-1 |page=11 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=fNFVngEACAAJ }}</ref>

After dropping out of [[nursing school]] in Toronto,<ref name="Davidson">{{cite book |last1=Davidson |first1=Hilary |title=Frommer's Toronto 2004 |date=5 December 2003 |publisher=Wiley |isbn=978-0-7645-4060-8 |page=262 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xCTawAEACAAJ }}</ref> she joined her elder brother in [[Manhattan]], working briefly as a [[bookkeeper]] for the [[Bristol-Myers Squibb|E. R. Squibb]] pharmaceutical company.<ref name=encyclopedia/> While there, Arden spent hours in their lab, learning about [[skincare]]. She then worked for Eleanor Adair, an early beauty culturist, as a "treatment girl".

Arden was allegedly a dedicated [[suffragette]], and there is a story that she marched for [[women's rights]] in 1912. It is a popular fiction that she supplied the marchers with red lipstick as a sign of solidarity,<ref>{{Cite web|title=Elizabeth Arden - Entrepreneur - Biography|url=https://www.biography.com/business-figure/elizabeth-arden|access-date=2020-10-18|website=www.biography.com|date=June 19, 2019 }}</ref><ref name="jj">{{Cite web|last=Lewis|first=Jone Johnson|date=2015|title=ThoughtCo|url=https://www.thoughtco.com/elizabeth-arden-biography-3528897|access-date=October 18, 2020}}</ref> but there is little contemporary evidence supporting this.<ref>{{Cite web|last=www.portfoliobox.net|title=Elizabeth Arden and the Case of the Missing Lipstick|url=https://ceegebee.portfoliobox.net/research/elizabeth-arden-and-the-case-of-the-missing-lipstick|access-date=2021-05-18|website=Catherine Buckland|language=en}}</ref> Women taking part in the 1912 march were advised to wear the same $7 straw hat, wear white, and to bring their children, to demonstrate their responsibility and simplicity. The use of cosmetics was never mentioned, which is hardly surprising: bold red lipstick still had tawdry associations with the theatre. Even as late as 1920 Arden herself was dismissive of "powder and rouge ... so obvious in their artifice that their use was considered in questionable taste".<ref>{{Cite book|last=Arden|first=Elizabeth|url=https://www.cosmeticsandskin.com/booklets/arden-quest-20.php|title=The Quest for the Beautiful|year=1920|pages=4}}</ref>

==Career==
In 1909, Arden formed a partnership with Elizabeth Hubbard, another culturist. The business relationship dissolved in 1910.<ref>{{Cite news|title=BUSINESS TROUBLES|date=August 16, 1910|work=New York Times}}</ref> Wanting to have a [[trade name]], she used "Elizabeth" to save money on her salon signs. She chose the last name, "Arden", from a nearby farm. Thus the trade name "Elizabeth Arden" was formed.<ref name=jj/> From there, Arden founded the Red Door salon in New York in 1910, which has remained synonymous with her name ever since (see under [[Elizabeth Arden, Inc.]]).{{citation needed|date=April 2016}}

In 1912, Arden traveled to France to learn beauty and facial [[massage]] techniques used in the Parisian [[beauty salon]]s. She returned with a collection of [[Rouge (cosmetics)|rouges]] and tinted powders that she had created. She began expanding her international operations in 1915 and started opening salons across the world. In 1934, she opened the Maine Chance residential spa in [[Rome, Maine]], the first destination beauty spa in the United States. It operated until 1970.<ref>{{cite news |last=McMillan |first=Susan |url=http://www.centralmaine.com/2014/06/12/former-elizabeth-arden-estate-on-long-pond-for-sale/|title=Former Elizabeth Arden estate on Long Pond for sale |newspaper=[[Kennebec Journal]] |location=[[Augusta, Maine]] |date=June 13, 2014 |access-date=June 13, 2014}}</ref>

Arden was largely responsible for establishing makeup as proper and appropriate, even necessary, for a ladylike image; previously makeup had often been associated with lower classes and prostitutes. She targeted middle-aged and plain women for whom beauty products promised a youthful, beautiful image.{{citation needed|date=December 2018}} In her salons and through her marketing campaigns, she stressed teaching women how to apply makeup and pioneered such concepts as scientific formulation of cosmetics, beauty makeovers, and coordinating colors of eye, lip and facial makeup.{{citation needed|date=December 2018}}

In 1962, the French government awarded Arden the [[Légion d'Honneur]], in recognition of her contribution to the cosmetics industry.<ref name=thoughtco>{{Cite news|url=https://www.thoughtco.com/elizabeth-arden-1779864|title=Who Was Elizabeth Arden?|work=ThoughtCo|access-date=February 27, 2018}}</ref>

==Horse racing==
Arden was involved in the sport of [[Thoroughbred racing]] for many years. Her stable, [[Maine Chance Farm]] (named for her spa), owned – among other [[stakes race|stakes]] winners – the [[1947 Kentucky Derby]] winner, [[Jet Pilot (horse)|Jet Pilot]].

==Personal life and death==
[[Image:Elizabeth Arden Graham footstone.jpg|thumb|The [[footstone]] of Elizabeth Arden (listed as Elizabeth N. Graham)]]
[[Image:Elizabeth Arden grave.jpg|thumb|The [[headstone]] of Elizabeth Arden in [[Sleepy Hollow Cemetery]] (under the family name of Graham)]]
Arden was married to Thomas Jenkins Lewis and to [[Prince Michael Evlanov]]. Both times, she divorced them.<ref>{{cite web | url=https://guides.loc.gov/this-month-in-business-history/december/elizabeth-arden-born | title=Research Guides: This Month in Business History: Cosmetic Entrepreneur Elizabeth Arden Born }}</ref>

Arden died at [[Lenox Hill Hospital]] in [[Manhattan]] on October 18, 1966. She was interred in the [[Sleepy Hollow Cemetery]] in [[Sleepy Hollow, New York]], under the name Elizabeth N. Graham.<ref>{{Cite news|url=https://hannaonline.org/2017/01/30/the-original-beauty-queen-the-story-of-elizabeth-arden/|title=The Original Beauty Queen: The Story of Elizabeth Arden|date=January 30, 2017|work=Hanna|access-date=February 27, 2018|language=en-US}}</ref><ref name="Wilson">{{cite book |last1=Wilson |first1=Scott |title=Resting Places: The Burial Sites of More Than 14,000 Famous Persons, 3d ed. |date=19 August 2016 |publisher=McFarland |isbn=978-1-4766-2599-7 |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=FOHgDAAAQBAJ |pages=1480–1481 (Kindle locations)}}</ref>

==In popular culture==
The musical ''[[War Paint (musical)|War Paint]]'' dramatizes her rivalry with competitor [[Helena Rubinstein]]. After a successful tryout at Chicago's [[Goodman Theater]], the show opened on Broadway at the [[Nederlander Theatre]] on April 6, 2017, earning four [[Tony Award]] nominations, including Best Actress in a Leading Role for [[Christine Ebersole]]'s portrayal of Arden, as well as for [[Patti Lupone]] for her role as Rubinstein.<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.broadway.com/buzz/awards/tony-awards/nominees/811/christine-ebersole/|title=Tony Awards 2018 - Broadway.com|website=www.broadway.com|access-date=October 4, 2018}}</ref> and closed on November 5, 2017.<ref>{{cite news|url=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/13/theater/war-paint-closing-broadway-patti-lupone.html?module=WatchingPortal&region=c-column-middle-span-region&pgType=Homepage&action=click&mediaId=thumb_square&state=standard&contentPlacement=15&version=internal&contentCollection=www.nytimes.com&contentId=https://www.nytimes.com/2017/10/13/theater/war-paint-closing-broadway-patti-lupone.html&eventName=Watching-article-click|title=LuPone Surgery Forces 'War Paint' to Announce Early Closing|newspaper=The New York Times|date=October 13, 2017|access-date=October 4, 2018|last1=Libbey|first1=Peter}}</ref>

The comedy ''Lip Service'' by the Australian dramatist [[John Misto]] chronicles the life and career of [[Helena Rubinstein]] and her rivalry with Elizabeth Arden and [[Revlon]]. ''Lip Service'' premiered April 26, 2017, at the [[Park Theatre (London)|Park Theatre]] in London, under the title ''Madame Rubinstein'',<ref>[https://www.thesoandsoartsclub.com/madame-rubinstein-by-john-misto/ Madame Rubinstein by John Misto], thesoandsoartsclub.com. Retrieved 2 December 2021.</ref> before opening at Sydney's [[Ensemble Theatre]] in August of the same year.

Elizabeth Arden, as student nurse Florence Nightingale Graham, appeared in an episode of the [[CBC Television|CBC]] period drama ''[[Murdoch Mysteries]]'' (October 1, 2018), portrayed by [[Kathryn Alexandre]].<ref>{{cite web|url=https://www.imdb.com/title/tt8636694/|title=Operation Murdoch|access-date=October 4, 2018|via=www.imdb.com}}</ref>

A contract dispute that Arden faced with a former employee led the 1953 court case ''Crabtree v. Elizabeth Arden Sales Corp'', which is now considered a seminal case on the application of the [[statute of frauds]].{{cn|date=November 2023}} Most law schools include this case in their required [[contract law]] course.{{cn|date=November 2023}} (It is curious that "Graham's" love interest in the ''Murdoch Mysteries'' was named "Crabtree".)

==References==
{{reflist|2}}

===General references===
* {{cite book |last= Cordery |first= Stacy A. |title= Becoming Elizabeth Arden: The Woman Behind the Global Beauty Empire |date=2024 |publisher= Viking |isbn= 978-0525559764 }}
* {{cite book |last= Woodhead |first= Lindy |title= War Paint |date= 2004 |publisher= Virago |isbn= 978-1-84408-049-6 |page= 94 }}

==Further reading==
* {{cite encyclopedia | last=Haag|first=Karin Loewen|title=Arden, Elizabeth|pages=442–446|volume=1|editor=Commire, Anne|encyclopedia=[[Women in World History|Women in World History: A biographical encyclopedia]]|year=1999|publisher=Yorkin Publications, Gale Group|location=Waterford, CT|isbn=978-0787640804}}
* {{cite book |last= Marshall |first= Mary |title= Great Breeders and Their Methods |date= 2008 |publisher= Russell Meerdink Co. Ltd. |isbn= 978-0-929346-82-3 }}
* {{cite book |last= Peiss |first= Kathy |title= Hope in a jar: The making of America's beauty culture |publisher= University of Pennsylvania Press |date= 2011 }}
* {{cite book |last= Willett |first= Julie A. |title= The American Beauty Industry Encyclopedia |url= {{google books |id= CljLw4sH2DMC |page= 22 |plainurl= yes }} |date= 2010 |publisher= ABC-CLIO |pages= 22–25 }}
* {{cite book |last= Woodhead |first= Lindy |title= War Paint |date= 2004 |publisher= [[Virago Press|Virago]] |isbn= 978-1-84408-049-6 }}

==External links==
{{commons category}}
* [http://www.elizabetharden.com/about-us.html Elizabeth Arden] at Elizabeth Arden, Inc. (retail website)
* [http://corporate.elizabetharden.com/about-elizabeth-arden/ Elizabeth Arden] at Elizabeth Arden, Inc. (corporate website)
* {{Fashiondesigner|florence-nightingale-graham|Florence Nightingale Graham}}
* [http://vault.fbi.gov/Elizabeth%20Arden FBI dossier on Elizabeth Arden]

{{Authority control}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Arden, Elizabeth}}
[[Category:1881 births]]
[[Category:1966 deaths]]
[[Category:20th-century American businesswomen]]
[[Category:20th-century American sportswomen]]
[[Category:20th-century Canadian businesswomen]]
[[Category:20th-century Canadian sportswomen]]
[[Category:American businesspeople in retailing]]
[[Category:American businesspeople in the cosmetics industry]]
[[Category:American people of Cornish descent]]
[[Category:American people of English descent]]
[[Category:American people of Scottish descent]]
[[Category:American racehorse owners and breeders]]
[[Category:American recipients of the Legion of Honour]]
[[Category:American women chief executives]]
[[Category:American women company founders ]]
[[Category:Burials at Sleepy Hollow Cemetery]]
[[Category:Businesspeople from Manhattan]]
[[Category:Businesspeople from Ontario]]
[[Category:Canadian businesspeople in retailing]]
[[Category:Canadian emigrants to the United States]]
[[Category:Canadian Horse Racing Hall of Fame inductees]]
[[Category:Canadian people of Cornish descent]]
[[Category:Canadian people of English descent]]
[[Category:Canadian people of Scottish descent]]
[[Category:Canadian racehorse owners and breeders]]
[[Category:Canadian women chief executives]]
[[Category:Canadian women company founders]]
[[Category:History of cosmetics]]
[[Category:Sportspeople from Manhattan]]
[[Category:Sportspeople from Vaughan]]
[[Category:Women sports owners]]

Elizabeth Arden - Revision history

imported>JJMC89 bot III: Moving :Category:American cosmetics businesspeople to :Category:American businesspeople in the cosmetics industry per Wikipedia:Categories for discussion/Speedy