Chogolisa
Template:Short description Template:Infobox mountain Template:Chinese Chogolisa (Template:Langx derived from Chogo Ling Sa; literally "Great Hunt") is a trapezoidal mountain located in the Karakoram range within the Gilgit-Baltistan region of Pakistan. It is situated near the Baltoro Glacier in the Concordia region, which is renowned for hosting some of the world's tallest peaks.
Chogolisa has several peaks, the highest being its southwest face (Chogolisa I), which reaches an elevation of Template:Convert. On the northeast side, the second-highest peak stands at Template:Cvt in height and was named "Bride Peak" by Martin Conway in 1892.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>
Climbing history
In 1909, a party led by Duke of the Abruzzi reached Template:Convert from a base camp located on the northern side and a high camp on the Chogolisa saddle at 6,335 m. Bad weather stopped the party from ascending further, but their climb established a new world altitude record<ref name=evnews>Template:Cite web</ref> which wasn't beaten until 13 years later, when Mallory, Norton and Somervell reached Template:Convert on the 1922 British Mount Everest expedition.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>
Austrian mountaineers Hermann Buhl and Kurt Diemberger attempted Chogolisa in 1957 after they had successfully summitted Broad Peak behind Marcus Schmuck and Fritz Wintersteller a few weeks earlier. On June 25, they left camp I and camped in a saddle at 6,706 m on the southeast ridge. On June 27, a sudden snowstorm forced them to retreat less than 2000ft from the summit and, on the descent, Buhl broke off a big cornice and fell into the mountain's near vertical north face.<ref>Template:Cite journal</ref> His body has never been found.<ref name=evnews/>
On August 4, 1958, a Japanese expedition from the Academic Alpine Club Kyoto University led by Takeo Kuwabara (桑原武夫) made the first ascent of Chogolisa II, placing Masao Fujihira and Kazumasa Hirai on top.<ref name=aj_1959>Template:Cite journal</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref name=aaj_1959>Template:Cite aaj</ref>
The first ascent of Chogolisa I was made on August 2, 1975, by Fred Pressl and Gustav Ammerer of an Austrian expedition led by Eduard Koblmueller. Koblmueller almost suffered the same fate as Buhl, as he also fell through a snow cornice on the ascent, but he was roped and team members were able to pull him to safety.<ref name=aaj_1976>Template:Cite aaj</ref><ref name=evnews/>