View source for Futou

{{Short description|Chinese headwear}}
{{Italic title}}
{{Infobox Chinese
| c = 
| p = fútóu, pútóu
| altname = 
| pic = Prince Zhanghuai's tomb, eunuchs.JPG
| piccap = Eunuchs wearing [[yuanlingshan]] and futou, Tang dynasty
| c2 = 
| t = 襆頭/幞頭
| s = 幞头
| title = Futou/Putou
| l = Scarf head
| pic2= File:明朝烏紗帽.jpg|200
| piccap2 = ''Wushamao'' (a type of futou), housed in Shanghai Museum
}}

'''Futou''' ({{Lang-zh|s=幞头|t=襆頭/幞頭}}; also {{zhp|p='''putou'''|s=幞头|t=襆頭 or 幞頭}}, {{zhp|p='''fu'''|c=幞}} and {{zhp|p='''toujin'''|c=頭巾}},<ref>{{Cite web |script-title=zh:廣韻 : 入聲 : 燭: 幞 - 四腳 - Chinese Text Project |url=https://ctext.org/text.pl?node=312140&if=en |access-date=2022-06-14 |website=ctext.org |language=en}}</ref> was one of the most important forms of [[List of Hanfu headwear|Chinese headwear]] in ancient [[China]] with a history of more than one thousand years.<ref name=":4">{{Cite journal |last1=Mai |first1=Huijuan |last2=Yang |first2=Yimin |last3=Jiang |first3=Hongen |last4=Wang |first4=Bo |last5=Wang |first5=Changsui |date=2017-10-01 |title=Investigating the materials and manufacture of Jinzi: The lining of Futou (Chinese traditional male headwear) from the Astana Cemeteries, Xinjiang, China |url=https://www.sciencedirect.com/science/article/pii/S1296207416302278 |journal=Journal of Cultural Heritage |language=en |volume=27 |pages=116–124 |doi=10.1016/j.culher.2017.02.018 |issn=1296-2074|url-access=subscription }}</ref> The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} first appeared in the [[Tang dynasty|Tang]] and [[Song dynasty|Song dynasties]].<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=319}} The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was typically worn by government officials.<ref>{{Cite book|last=Dale R. Johnson|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=olP7DwAAQBAJ&dq=futou%20hats%20putou&pg=PA73|title=A Glossary of Words and Phrases in the Oral Performing and Dramatic Literatures of the Jin, Yuan, and Ming|date=2020|publisher=University of Michigan Center for Chinese Studies|isbn=978-0-472-03823-7|page=73|oclc=1229843176}}</ref> The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was originally turban-like headwear which was tied at the back of its wearer's head, with the two corners going to opposite directions and acting as decorations.<ref name=":0">{{Cite book |last1=Zang |first1=Yingchun |url=https://books.google.com/books?id=m7Qf-bjLfA4C&q=futou+cap&pg=PT7 |title=Zhongguo chuan tong fu shi |last2=臧迎春. |date=2003 |publisher=Wu zhou chuan bo chu ban she |others=李竹润., 王德华., 顾映晨. |isbn=7-5085-0279-5 |edition=Di 1 ban |location=Beijing |trans-title=Chinese traditional costumes and ornaments |oclc=55895164}}</ref>  From the [[Sui dynasty|Sui]] to the [[Ming dynasty|Ming dynasties]], the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} evolved and was developed based on the {{transliteration|zh|[[fujin (headgear)|fujin]]}}.<ref name=":4" /> The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} eventually came to assume a variety of shapes and styles.<ref name=":1">{{Cite book|last=Burkus|first=Anne Gail|url=https://books.google.com/books?id=xfYFEAAAQBAJ&dq=putou&pg=PA319|title=Through a forest of chancellors: fugitive histories in Liu Yuan's "Lingyan ge", an illustrated book from seventeenth-century Suzhou|date=2010|others=Yuan, active Liu|isbn=978-1-68417-050-0|location=Cambridge, Mass. |publisher=Harvard University |page=319|oclc=956711877}}</ref>{{Rp|page=319}} The shape of the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} worn by the government officials in the Song and Ming dynasties, the latter known as the {{zhp|p=wushamao|c=烏紗帽}}, was based on the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} of the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|pages=71–72}}

The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was also introduced in both [[Unified Silla]] and [[Balhae]]<ref>{{Cite book |title=A new history of Parhae |date=2012 |publisher=Global Oriental |author=John B. Duncan |author2=Tongbuga Yŏksa Chaedan |isbn=978-90-04-24299-9 |location=Leiden |oclc=864678409}}</ref>{{Rp|page=135}} and continued to be worn by government officials until the late [[Joseon]].<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://folkency.nfm.go.kr/en/domList# |title=Encyclopedia of Traditional Korean clothing |publisher=National Folk Museum of Korea |year=2021 |isbn=978-89-289-0287-3 |edition=English |volume=VI |location=Seoul}}</ref>{{Rp|page=25}} The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with a {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} (lining) was also introduced back in the [[Sogdia]]n areas in [[Central Asia]] spreading to the Western regions through the [[Xinjiang|Xinjiang region]].<ref name=":4" /> The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} was also introduced in [[Japan]] during the [[Nara period]] through [[Prince Shōtoku|Prince Shōtaku]].<ref name=":4" /> [[Đại Cồ Việt]] was introduced to the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} in the late 10th century and adapted various iterations from the [[Early Lê dynasty|Early Lê]] to the [[Nguyễn dynasty]].<ref>{{Cite book |url=https://sachnhanam.com/doc-thu/doc-thu-ngan-nam-ao-mu-tran-quang-duc/ |title=One Thousand Years of Caps and Robes|publisher=Hanoi: World Publishing House |year=2013 |edition=Vietnamese |volume=I |location=Vietnam}}</ref>{{Rp|page=171}}

== Terminology ==
The term {{transliteration|zh|futou}} (or {{zhp|p=putou|s=幞头|t=襆頭 or 幞頭}} means "head scarf" or "head-cloth".<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=319}} According to the {{transliteration|zh|Mufuyanxianlu}} by Bi Zhongxun, the original meaning of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was to "cover one's head with a black cloth" before the [[Sui dynasty]].<ref name=":5" />

The English term "feet", which is used to describe the hard ribbons used in the {{transliteration|zh|futou}}, is called {{zhp|p=jiǎo|l=feet|t=腳|s=脚}}).<ref name=":3">{{Cite book |last1=Zhu |first1=Ruixi |title=A social history of middle-period China: the Song, Liao, Western Xia and Jin dynasties |author2=朱瑞熙 |author3=Bangwei Zhang |author4=Fusheng Liu |author5=Chongbang Cai |author6=Zengyu Wang |translator=Bang Qian Zhu |date=2016 |isbn=978-1-107-16786-5 |edition=illustrated |publisher=Cambridge University Press |pages= |oclc=953576345}}</ref>{{Rp|page=11}}

The {{zhp|c=巾子|p=jīnzi}} refers to a lining used inside the {{transliteration|zh|futou}}; it began to be used in 614 AD, and its purpose was to make the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} look more straight and beautiful in terms of appearance.<ref name=":4" />

== History ==

=== Origins ===
There are varying opinions on the origins of the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} in the literature. According to Chinese scholar Sun Ji in ''From Futou to Turban'' ({{zhi|c=從幞頭到頭巾|p=Cóng fútóu dào tóujīn|labels=no}}), the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} first appeared in the 3rd century AD and was based on the headdress of a northern tribe.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=319}}

[[Guzel Maitdinova]] proposed in 1990 that the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} may have been developed from hats worn in ancient [[Central Asia]] and was brought in by the [[Turkic peoples|Turks]] from [[Sogdia]]na to [[Tokharistan]] to China, based on information provided by Hsen Kuo, an 11th-century Chinese annalist:<ref name=":2">{{Cite book |last=Stepanov |first=T︠S︡vetelin |title=Bulgars and the Steppe Empire in the Early Middle Ages: The Problem of the Others |date=2010 |publisher=[[Brill Publishers]] |isbn=978-90-474-4452-7 |location=Leiden, Netherlands |oclc=695988846}}</ref>{{Rp|pages=54–55}}

{{Blockquote|text="The Chinese clothes and hats, starting from the time of [[Northern Qi dynasty]] represents a [[hufu|barbarian costume]]".}}

It is also proposed by Yatsenko that the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was part of the Chinese male costume.<ref name=":2" />{{Rp|page=54}}

=== Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties ===
[[File:陕西潼关税村隋代仪仗壁画.png|thumb|[[Sui dynasty]] mural showing guards wearing early ''futou'', from Shuicun, [[Tongguan County|Tongguan]], [[Shaanxi]].]]
The origins of the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} in China can be traced back to the reign of [[Emperor Wu of Northern Zhou|Emperor Wu]] in [[Northern Zhou]],<ref name=":4" /> who had wrapped his head with a {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with four ribbons, called {{zhp|p=sìjiǎo|l=four feet|t=四腳|labels=no}}) or {{zhp|p=zhéshàngjīn|l=folding-up scarf|s=折上巾|labels=no}}); two of those ribbons were tied at the back and left hanging down, while the other two were tied inversely at the top of the head.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=10}} According to the {{transliteration|zh|[[Tongdian]]}}, Emperor Wu created the {{transliteration|zh|sijiao}} by cutting the {{transliteration|zh|[[fujin (headgear)|fujin]]}}.<ref>{{Cite web |script-title=zh:通典 : 禮十七: 幅巾 - Chinese Text Project |url=https://ctext.org/text.pl?node=555313&if=en |access-date=2022-06-14 |website=ctext.org |language=en}}</ref> According to ancient texts, Emperor Wu created the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} to protect the hair of his generals and soldiers in battles.<ref name=":5">{{Cite thesis |last=Ren |first=Baihua |title=The Water Mill: authentication and analysis of an ancient Chinese Jiehua painting |date=2020 |degree=PhD |publisher=University of Glasgow |url=https://theses.gla.ac.uk/81625/ |language=en}}</ref>

The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} first appeared a type of kerchief made by cutting a piece of [[muslin]] fabric into the proper size and by attaching four long and wide ribbons at each corner of the fabric like four feet.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=10}}<ref name=":4" /> This {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was large enough to cover all the hair of its wearer,<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=10}} and when it was worn, a kerchief had to be placed on the top of its wearer's head.<ref name=":4" /> Two of these ribbons were tied on the forehead while the other two were tied at the back of the wearer's head and was left hanging down.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=10}} Prior to the [[Sui dynasty]], the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was a black piece of cloth.<ref name=":5" />

=== Sui, Tang dynasty, and Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period ===

==== Tang dynasty ====
[[File:Tang gao zu.jpg|thumb|Example of Tang dynasty ''futou'']]
[[File:幞头巾子.jpg|thumb|{{transliteration|zh|Jinzi}}-lining worn with the futou]]
Prior to the [[Song dynasty]], the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was mostly made of black muslin.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}} In the early Tang, the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was a {{zhp|p=sijiaoruanjin|c=四腳軟巾|l=Four-feet soft scarf|labels=no}},<ref name=":6">{{Cite web |script-title=zh:朱子語類 : 禮八: 雜儀 - Chinese Text Project |url=https://ctext.org/text.pl?node=597459&if=en |access-date=2022-06-14 |website=ctext.org |language=en}}</ref> where all four ribbons were allowed to hang down after being tied.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=10}} Later on, the early Tang dynasty minister, [[Ma Zhou]], was the first person to use a square kerchief in order to tie a {{transliteration|zh|futou}} and was also the person who added a lining to shape his {{transliteration|zh|futou}} making it more beautiful.<ref name=":5" /> The lining which was added to the inside of the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} from the year 614 AD was called {{zhp|p=jinzi|c=巾子}}; the {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} was used to make the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} look more straight and beautiful in terms of appearance.<ref name=":4" /> After being cut into the desired shape, the {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} was painted black with lacquer and would then be covered by the {{transliteration|zh|futou}}.<ref name=":4" /> The {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} was made with soft and light [[Vernicia fordii|tung wood]] and with other materials such as bamboo strips, timbo, [[miscanthus]], silk, and leather.<ref name=":4" /> It was also possible to line the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with a mount-shaped item made out of [[paulownia]] ({{zhi|c=桐木为冠 |p=Tóngmù wéi guān|l=paulownia crown}}) in the front.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}}<ref name=":6" /> The step-by-step process to wear the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} was to tie the hair up in a topknot, followed by covering the topknot with the {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} as hard lining, then wrapping the head and the {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} with a black, square-shaped piece of cloth, and finally tying the cloth in the desired style.<ref name=":5" /> The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} then became the standard form of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} in the early Tang dynasty.<ref name=":5" /> A form of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} was a kerchief with two corners attached with two ribbons in opposite directions of each other; the ribbons would then be tied at the back of the wearer's head, allowing the two back ribbons to hang down freely as a form of decoration.<ref name=":0" /> With time, the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} was further developed, and a ribbon was attached to each corner of the turban to make it more decorative; two ribbons were tied on the top of the head while the back ribbons were tied and were allowed to hang down freely.<ref name=":0" /> The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}} could also have all four ribbons tied at the back of the head and allowed to hang down freely.<ref name=":5" /> The {{zhp|p=yingwangboyang|c=英王踣样}}, a {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with a big and forward top {{transliteration|zh|jinzi}}, was created by [[Emperor Zhongzong of Tang|Emperor Zhongzong]] and became prevalent during his reign when he awarded this type of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} to his officials.<ref name=":4" /> During the reign of [[Emperor Xuanzong of Tang|Emperor Xuanzong]], the {{zhp|p=neiyang|c=内样}}, a {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with a small and round top jinzi became popular around the year 726 AD.<ref name=":4" /> Moreover, by adding wire or silk strings inside the added ribbons, the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} could take different shapes and styles depending on its wearer's liking.<ref name=":0" /> However, in the Tang dynasty, only the Emperors could use these hard ribbons; these hard ribbons would be bent upward.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|pages=10–11}} The Tang dynasties emperor wore a {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with two upturned tails until the [[Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period|Five dynasties period]].<ref name=":5" /> The Tang dynasty emperors also wore the {{zhp|c=直腳幞头|l=straight-feet futou|p=zhíjiǎofútóu}}.<ref name=":5" />
{| class="wikitable"
|+Types of futou in the Tang dynasty
!Types of futou
!Description
! colspan="2" |Pictures
|-
|'''Ruanjiao putou''' 
({{Lang-zh|l=putou with soft legs|s=软脚幞頭|t=軟腳幞頭|p=ruǎnjiǎo fútóu|labels=no}}) 
|A typical type of headwear in the Tang dynasty and was an important precursor to the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} developed in the succeeding dynasties. Sometimes, 2 or 4 narrow and long ribbons were tied to the back of the {{transliteration|zh|putou}} and were allowed to hang down freely down the back of its wearer<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=319}}
|[[File:Tang Emperor Taizong 2.jpg|frameless|108x108px]]
|[[File:Prince Zhanghuai's tomb, eunuchs.JPG|frameless|105x105px]]
|-
|'''Zheshang jin''' ({{Lang-zh|c=折上巾|l=kerchief folded upward|labels=no}}),
|A type of form of ''ruanjiao putou'' which consisted of square-piece of cloth wrap around the head; the two ends of the fabric were then tied at the back at either side of the neck and were then wrapped around the head before being together above the forehead.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=319}}
|[[File:Figures in a cortege, tomb of Li Xian, Tang Dynasty.jpg|frameless|128x128px]]
|
|-
|[[Tang official headwear|'''Chuijiao Putou''']] ({{Lang-zh|c=垂腳襆頭|labels=no}}) 
|A black hat with two drooped down wing-like flaps.
|[[File:Tangxuanzong.jpg|frameless|115x115px]]
|
|}

==== Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period ====
[[File:Zhou Wenju's A Literary Garden.jpg|thumb|Futou worn by literati on Zhou Wenju's {{zhi|out=tr|tr=Literary Garden|c=文苑圖}}]]
In the [[Five Dynasties and Ten Kingdoms period|Five dynasties period]], more styles of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} were created including the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with wide feet which looked like fans or banana leaves which surrounded the front of the head; and the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with curved feet which turned upwards before bending downward.<ref name=":5" />

In the [[Ma Chu]], painted silk was used in the {{transliteration|zh|futou}}.<ref name=":5" /> [[Ma Xifan]] also wore the ''horns of a dragon'' ({{zhi|s=龍角|p=lóngjiǎo|l=dragon horn}}), a {{transliteration|zh|futou}} with extremely long feet on both sides.<ref name=":5" />

During the [[Later Jin (Five Dynasties)|Later Jin]], [[Liu Chong|Emperor Liu Min]] used a {{transliteration|zh|zhijiaofutou}} with long and straight feet which were more than one foot in length; the Song dynasty later kept the tradition of using this style of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} as a standard.<ref name=":5" /> It is also attested in the [[History of Song (book)|Song Shi]] that the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} had become straight and flat since the Five dynasties period.<ref name=":5" />

=== Song dynasty ===
[[File:Gu Hongzhong's Night Revels, Detail 1.jpg|thumb|Song dynasty men wearing ''futou'', as seen on 12th century remake of Night Revels of Han Xizai by [[Gu Hongzhong]]]]
The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was popular in the [[Song dynasty]],<ref name=":0" /> and it was commonly worn by all classes of people ranging from commoners to emperors. During the Song dynasty, the black muslin, which was mainly used to make the {{transliteration|zh|futou}}, was replaced by other materials, such as muslin or lacquered muslin.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}} The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} could also be found with supports made out of wood, and therefore they could look like hats and caps of various styles.<ref name=":0" /> Hard ribbons were also used;<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=10}} and all the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} in this period had hard feet.<ref name=":5" /> There were 5 main types of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} in this period: the {{transliteration|zh|zhijiaofutou}} (also called {{zhp|l=flat-feet futou|s=平腳幞頭|p=píngjiǎofútóu}} which was worn by people of all social classes (including both the upper and lower classes<ref name=":5" />); the "bent-feet" {{transliteration|zh|futou}}, the {{zhp|l=cross-feet futou|s=交腳幞頭|p=Jiāojiǎofútóu}}, the "upward" {{transliteration|zh|futou}}, and the "downwind" {{transliteration|zh|futou}}.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}}

According to the [[History of Song (book)|Song Shi]], the {{transliteration|zh|zhijiaofutou}} became the national standard form of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} in the Song dynasty for the emperor and the officials on any occasion, except when they had to take a carriage.<ref name=":5" /> The {{transliteration|zh|futou}} worn by the Song dynasty officials had an extended reclined feet; it was developed by having two hard ribbons made out with iron wire or bamboo strips attached at the back of the {{transliteration|zh|futou}}.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}} According to the ''Pedantic Remarks of the Confucians'' by Yu Yan, this form of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} might have been developed to prevent the officials from whispering to each other during court audience with the Emperor.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}} On some special occasions (e.g. the imperial court banquets, or the longevity ceremonies held for the royal family), Song court officials would put flowers on their {{transliteration|zh|futou}}; this was referred as Flower pinning.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}} The Song emperors would sometimes send fresh flowers or man-made flowers which were exclusive to the use of the imperial court to his courtier; this later become a form of etiquette in the Song dynasty court.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}}It is also recorded in the [[History of Song (book)|Song Shi]] that the upward {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was used by people (including the Emperor and the officials) when they found themselves in narrow spaces, such as in a carriage.<ref name=":5" />

According to the first volume of the ''History Narrated at Ease'' in the section ''The Etiquette'' by Wang Dechen (1036 –1116), in the early Song dynasty, a type {{transliteration|zh|futou}}, called ''front-folded scarf'', was worn by some people.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}} The ''front-folded scarf'' was folded and tied at the front region of the head was worn by some people.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}} The ''back-folded scarf'' was a type {{transliteration|zh|futou}} which would be bent backward; it started to be worn after the [[Emperor Zhezong|Shaosheng period]] (i.e. after 1098 AD).<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}} Following the Shaosheng period, there were many changes in the styles of {{transliteration|zh|futou}}.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}}

There were also other forms of {{transliteration|zh|futou}}, such as the ''colourful flower-shaped {{transliteration|zh|futou}}'' ''embedded with gold lines'' which were sold in market of [[Kaifeng|Dongjing]]; the ''curved-feet {{transliteration|zh|futou}}'' or the ''flower-like {{transliteration|zh|futou}}'' ''with feet curved backwards'' were also worn by some warriors; the ''long feet {{transliteration|zh|futou}}'' was favoured by the musical instrument plays of the imperial music office; the lustreless {{transliteration|zh|futou}}, and the white [[Crêpe (textile)|crêpe]] {{transliteration|zh|futou}} which was worn during funerals.<ref name=":3" />{{Rp|page=11}}

{| class="wikitable"
|+Types of futou in the Song dynasty
!Types of futou
!Description
! colspan="3" |Pictures
|-
|'''[[Song official headwear|Zhanjiao Putou]]''' {{lang-zh|c=展角幞頭|l=spread-horn head cover|labels=no}}
|It consisted of a black hat with two wing-like flaps which extends outward. The thin flaps were stiff and straight, and could extend up to almost a meter each.
|[[File:SongTaizu1.jpg|frameless]]
|[[File:Sima Guang 1.jpg|frameless|142x142px]]
|[[File:Emperor Yingzong of Song.jpg|frameless]]
|}

=== Liao dynasty ===
{{See also|Fashion in the Liao dynasty}}
[[File:Fresco of Xu Congyun's Tomb, North Part.jpg|thumb|Men wearing {{transliteration|zh|futou}}, Liao dynasty, 982 AD]]
In the [[Khitan people|Khitan]]-led [[Liao dynasty]], the Khitans shaved their hair in a style called kunfa and wore light hats made of felt or helmets which were more suitable for their horse riding activities instead of wearing the lacquered {{transliteration|zh|futou}}; however the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} did not disappear in this period and continued to be depicted in the Liao dynasty tomb murals, including the curved leg {{transliteration|zh|futou}}.<ref name=":5" />

=== Yuan dynasty ===
{{See also|Fashion in the Yuan dynasty}}
In the [[Mongols|Mongol-led]] [[Yuan dynasty]], the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} continued to be worn since the Yuan dynasty court followed the Song dynasty standards regarding official costumes:<ref name=":5" /> 
{{Blockquote|text=(All officials' work clothes should wear) straight tails painted hemp futou.}}

=== Ming dynasty / "Wushamao" (烏紗帽) ===
[[File:Officials.jpeg|thumb|left|Ming dynasty officials wearing ''yuanlingshan'' and ''wushamao'' (a type of ''futou'')]]
[[File:武官肖像.jpg|thumb|Early Ming Dynasty ''wushamao''.]]
During the Ming dynasty, a type of {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was to be worn by government officials as part of the court uniform, called {{zhp|p='''wushamao'''|c=乌纱帽}}.<ref>{{cite book|url=https://zh.wikisource.org/wiki/%E6%98%8E%E5%8F%B2/%E5%8D%B767|title=History of the Ming|chapter=67|script-quote=zh:文武官常服：洪武三年定，凡常朝視事，以烏紗帽、團領衫、束帶為公服。}}</ref> {{transliteration|zh|Wushamao}} resembled the ''futou'' used in the early Tang dynasty, but followed the crafting methods of the Song dynasty by using lacquered muslin and wooden or metal frames to cast its shape. The shape of the feet varies depending on the era, with some resembling the curved leaf appearance of the prior dynasties or the straight wing-like feet in the late Ming dynasty.<ref>{{lang|zh|薛天纬，"乌纱帽"小考，《学林漫录》六集}}</ref><ref>{{Cite web |url=http://zzrb.zynews.com/html/2007-04/19/content_127188.htm |script-title=zh:郑州日报:乌纱帽的变迁 |access-date=2013-11-04 |archive-date=2008-05-06 |archive-url=https://web.archive.org/web/20080506014827/http://zzrb.zynews.com/html/2007-04/19/content_127188.htm}}</ref> The Ming dynasty also kept the tradition of using straight-feet {{transliteration|zh|futou}}; however, by the shape of the {{transliteration|zh|futou}} worn in the Ming dynasty diverted from that worn in the Song dynasty: the feet became shorter with time and some of these {{transliteration|zh|futou}} became less than forty centimetres.<ref name=":5" /> The forty centimetre long straight-feet, painted linen {{transliteration|zh|futou}} was worn by both the military and civil officials for official business according to the [[History of Ming|Ming Shi]].<ref name=":5" /> The feet of the Ming dynasty straight-feet {{transliteration|zh|futou}} were not completely straight and had a curved tip which would bend upwards.<ref name=":5" />
{{clear}}
{| class="wikitable"
|+Types of Futou in the Ming dynasty
!Types of futou
!Description
! colspan="3" |Pictures
|-
|{{zhp|p='''Zhanchi Futou/putou'''|c=展翅襆頭}}, also known as the {{zhp|p=wushamao|c=烏紗帽|l=black gauze cap|labels=no}}
|It is a [[List of Hanfu headwear|headwear]] of [[Ming dynasty]] officials, consisting of a black [[hat]] with two wing-like flaps of thin, oval shaped boards on each side. According to the [[Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty]] ({{lang|zh|大明會典}}), ordinary citizens are not allowed to wear this headdress unless attending wedding ceremonies or events involving any noble families/officials. In modern China, ''wushamao'' is commonly used as a metaphor for officials and government posts. The Zhanchi Futou was also adopted by neighbouring countries.
| colspan="3" |[[File:沈度半身像.jpg|frameless|171x171px]][[File:程文德.jpg|frameless|172x172px]][[File:Xu Xianqing.jpg|frameless|170px]]
|-
| rowspan="2" |{{zhp|p='''Zhanjiao Putou'''|c=展角幞頭|l=spread-horn head cover}}
| rowspan="2" |It was based on the Song dynasty's zhanjiao putou; in the Ming dynasty, it was worn by Ming civil officials at court assemblies when they would present memorials or retirement notices to the Ming rulers.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=100}}
| colspan="3" |[[File:Gu Dingchen 顾鼎臣.jpg|frameless|113x113px]][[File:吕光洵.jpg|frameless|104x104px]][[File:王鏊像.jpg|frameless|108x108px]]
|-
| colspan="3" |[[File:Zhang Cong.jpg|frameless|155x155px]]
|-
| rowspan="2" |{{zhp|p='''Yishan guan'''|c=翼善冠|l=winged shan hat}}
| rowspan="2" |A type of futou made of lacquered silk which is formed on a wooden frame. At the back of the hat, there is a tall extension which is molded into 2 symmetrical bulbous shapes; there are 2 ribbons which are fastened to the hat's lower back and straight up extending just beyond the top protrusion.<ref name=":1" />{{Rp|page=102}} It is also a type of [[Guan (headwear)|guan]]. 
| colspan="3" |[[File:Hongwu2.jpg|frameless|127x127px]][[File:Portrait de l'empereur Ming Muzong.jpg|frameless|111x111px]]
|-
|[[File:Hat, Tomb of Ming Prince Zhu Tan (10144666514).jpg|frameless|131x131px]]
|[[File:Hat, Tomb of Ming Prince Zhu Tan (10144844026).jpg|frameless|143x143px]]
|[[File:Golden Crown Replica of King Wanli.jpg|frameless|104x104px]]
|}

== Derivatives and influences ==
{{gallery|mode=packed|height=200
|File:Toyotomi Hideyoshi (Kodaiji).jpg|[[Japan]]'s [[Toyotomi Hideyoshi]] wearing a hat influenced by ''wushamao'' ({{lang|zh|烏紗帽}})
|File:Sim_Hwan-ji.jpg|[[Joseon]]'s Sim Hwan-ji wearing a hat influenced by ''osamo'' ({{lang|zh|烏紗帽}})
|File:定乐侯陳了庵先生.jpg|[[Vietnam]]'s Trần Danh Án wearing an ''ô sa mạo'' hat (mũ cánh chuồn) influenced by ''wushamao''
|File:Vua-khai-dinh.jpg|Emperor [[Khải Định]] (middle) and mandarins wearing  ''ô sa mạo'' hats influenced by ''wushamao''
}}

== See also ==
{{Portal|China}}
* [[Hanfu]]
* [[List of Hanfu headwear|Hanfu headgear]]
* [[List of hats and headgear]]
* [[Qing official headwear]]

== References ==
{{Reflist}}

{{Ming dynasty topics}}
{{Types of Han Chinese clothing}}
{{Hats}}
{{Historical clothing}}
{{Crowns}}

{{DEFAULTSORT:Ming Official Headwear}}
[[Category:Chinese headgear]]
[[Category:Ming dynasty|headwear]]