Futou
Template:Short description Template:Italic title Template:Infobox Chinese
Futou (Template:Lang-zh; also Template:Zhp, Template:Zhp and Template:Zhp,<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> was one of the most important forms of Chinese headwear in ancient China with a history of more than one thousand years.<ref name=":4">Template:Cite journal</ref> The Template:Transliteration first appeared in the Tang and Song dynasties.<ref name=":1" />Template:Rp The Template:Transliteration was typically worn by government officials.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> The Template:Transliteration was originally turban-like headwear which was tied at the back of its wearer's head, with the two corners going to opposite directions and acting as decorations.<ref name=":0">Template:Cite book</ref> From the Sui to the Ming dynasties, the Template:Transliteration evolved and was developed based on the Template:Transliteration.<ref name=":4" /> The Template:Transliteration eventually came to assume a variety of shapes and styles.<ref name=":1">Template:Cite book</ref>Template:Rp The shape of the Template:Transliteration worn by the government officials in the Song and Ming dynasties, the latter known as the Template:Zhp, was based on the Template:Transliteration of the Tang dynasty.<ref name=":1" />Template:Rp
The Template:Transliteration was also introduced in both Unified Silla and Balhae<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>Template:Rp and continued to be worn by government officials until the late Joseon.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>Template:Rp The Template:Transliteration with a Template:Transliteration (lining) was also introduced back in the Sogdian areas in Central Asia spreading to the Western regions through the Xinjiang region.<ref name=":4" /> The Template:Transliteration with Template:Transliteration was also introduced in Japan during the Nara period through Prince Shōtaku.<ref name=":4" /> Đại Cồ Việt was introduced to the Template:Transliteration in the late 10th century and adapted various iterations from the Early Lê to the Nguyễn dynasty.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>Template:Rp
Terminology
The term Template:Transliteration (or Template:Zhp means "head scarf" or "head-cloth".<ref name=":1" />Template:Rp According to the Template:Transliteration by Bi Zhongxun, the original meaning of Template:Transliteration was to "cover one's head with a black cloth" before the Sui dynasty.<ref name=":5" />
The English term "feet", which is used to describe the hard ribbons used in the Template:Transliteration, is called Template:Zhp).<ref name=":3">Template:Cite book</ref>Template:Rp
The Template:Zhp refers to a lining used inside the Template:Transliteration; it began to be used in 614 AD, and its purpose was to make the Template:Transliteration look more straight and beautiful in terms of appearance.<ref name=":4" />
History
Origins
There are varying opinions on the origins of the Template:Transliteration in the literature. According to Chinese scholar Sun Ji in From Futou to Turban (Template:Zhi), the Template:Transliteration first appeared in the 3rd century AD and was based on the headdress of a northern tribe.<ref name=":1" />Template:Rp
Guzel Maitdinova proposed in 1990 that the Template:Transliteration may have been developed from hats worn in ancient Central Asia and was brought in by the Turks from Sogdiana to Tokharistan to China, based on information provided by Hsen Kuo, an 11th-century Chinese annalist:<ref name=":2">Template:Cite book</ref>Template:Rp
It is also proposed by Yatsenko that the Template:Transliteration was part of the Chinese male costume.<ref name=":2" />Template:Rp
Wei, Jin, Northern and Southern dynasties
The origins of the Template:Transliteration in China can be traced back to the reign of Emperor Wu in Northern Zhou,<ref name=":4" /> who had wrapped his head with a Template:Transliteration with four ribbons, called Template:Zhp) or Template:Zhp); two of those ribbons were tied at the back and left hanging down, while the other two were tied inversely at the top of the head.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp According to the Template:Transliteration, Emperor Wu created the Template:Transliteration by cutting the Template:Transliteration.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> According to ancient texts, Emperor Wu created the Template:Transliteration to protect the hair of his generals and soldiers in battles.<ref name=":5">Template:Cite thesis</ref>
The Template:Transliteration first appeared a type of kerchief made by cutting a piece of muslin fabric into the proper size and by attaching four long and wide ribbons at each corner of the fabric like four feet.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp<ref name=":4" /> This Template:Transliteration was large enough to cover all the hair of its wearer,<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp and when it was worn, a kerchief had to be placed on the top of its wearer's head.<ref name=":4" /> Two of these ribbons were tied on the forehead while the other two were tied at the back of the wearer's head and was left hanging down.<ref name=":4" /><ref name=":3" />Template:Rp Prior to the Sui dynasty, the Template:Transliteration was a black piece of cloth.<ref name=":5" />
Sui, Tang dynasty, and Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period
Tang dynasty
Prior to the Song dynasty, the Template:Transliteration was mostly made of black muslin.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp In the early Tang, the Template:Transliteration was a Template:Zhp,<ref name=":6">Template:Cite web</ref> where all four ribbons were allowed to hang down after being tied.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp Later on, the early Tang dynasty minister, Ma Zhou, was the first person to use a square kerchief in order to tie a Template:Transliteration and was also the person who added a lining to shape his Template:Transliteration making it more beautiful.<ref name=":5" /> The lining which was added to the inside of the Template:Transliteration from the year 614 AD was called Template:Zhp; the Template:Transliteration was used to make the Template:Transliteration look more straight and beautiful in terms of appearance.<ref name=":4" /> After being cut into the desired shape, the Template:Transliteration was painted black with lacquer and would then be covered by the Template:Transliteration.<ref name=":4" /> The Template:Transliteration was made with soft and light tung wood and with other materials such as bamboo strips, timbo, miscanthus, silk, and leather.<ref name=":4" /> It was also possible to line the Template:Transliteration with a mount-shaped item made out of paulownia (Template:Zhi) in the front.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp<ref name=":6" /> The step-by-step process to wear the Template:Transliteration with Template:Transliteration was to tie the hair up in a topknot, followed by covering the topknot with the Template:Transliteration as hard lining, then wrapping the head and the Template:Transliteration with a black, square-shaped piece of cloth, and finally tying the cloth in the desired style.<ref name=":5" /> The Template:Transliteration with Template:Transliteration then became the standard form of Template:Transliteration in the early Tang dynasty.<ref name=":5" /> A form of Template:Transliteration with Template:Transliteration was a kerchief with two corners attached with two ribbons in opposite directions of each other; the ribbons would then be tied at the back of the wearer's head, allowing the two back ribbons to hang down freely as a form of decoration.<ref name=":0" /> With time, the Template:Transliteration with Template:Transliteration was further developed, and a ribbon was attached to each corner of the turban to make it more decorative; two ribbons were tied on the top of the head while the back ribbons were tied and were allowed to hang down freely.<ref name=":0" /> The Template:Transliteration with Template:Transliteration could also have all four ribbons tied at the back of the head and allowed to hang down freely.<ref name=":5" /> The Template:Zhp, a Template:Transliteration with a big and forward top Template:Transliteration, was created by Emperor Zhongzong and became prevalent during his reign when he awarded this type of Template:Transliteration to his officials.<ref name=":4" /> During the reign of Emperor Xuanzong, the Template:Zhp, a Template:Transliteration with a small and round top jinzi became popular around the year 726 AD.<ref name=":4" /> Moreover, by adding wire or silk strings inside the added ribbons, the Template:Transliteration could take different shapes and styles depending on its wearer's liking.<ref name=":0" /> However, in the Tang dynasty, only the Emperors could use these hard ribbons; these hard ribbons would be bent upward.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp The Tang dynasties emperor wore a Template:Transliteration with two upturned tails until the Five dynasties period.<ref name=":5" /> The Tang dynasty emperors also wore the Template:Zhp.<ref name=":5" />
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | |
|---|---|---|---|
| Ruanjiao putou | A typical type of headwear in the Tang dynasty and was an important precursor to the Template:Transliteration developed in the succeeding dynasties. Sometimes, 2 or 4 narrow and long ribbons were tied to the back of the Template:Transliteration and were allowed to hang down freely down the back of its wearer<ref name=":1" />Template:Rp | 
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| Zheshang jin (Template:Lang-zh), | A type of form of ruanjiao putou which consisted of square-piece of cloth wrap around the head; the two ends of the fabric were then tied at the back at either side of the neck and were then wrapped around the head before being together above the forehead.<ref name=":1" />Template:Rp | 
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| Chuijiao Putou (Template:Lang-zh) | A black hat with two drooped down wing-like flaps. | 
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Five dynasties and ten kingdoms period
In the Five dynasties period, more styles of Template:Transliteration were created including the Template:Transliteration with wide feet which looked like fans or banana leaves which surrounded the front of the head; and the Template:Transliteration with curved feet which turned upwards before bending downward.<ref name=":5" />
In the Ma Chu, painted silk was used in the Template:Transliteration.<ref name=":5" /> Ma Xifan also wore the horns of a dragon (Template:Zhi), a Template:Transliteration with extremely long feet on both sides.<ref name=":5" />
During the Later Jin, Emperor Liu Min used a Template:Transliteration with long and straight feet which were more than one foot in length; the Song dynasty later kept the tradition of using this style of Template:Transliteration as a standard.<ref name=":5" /> It is also attested in the Song Shi that the Template:Transliteration had become straight and flat since the Five dynasties period.<ref name=":5" />
Song dynasty
The Template:Transliteration was popular in the Song dynasty,<ref name=":0" /> and it was commonly worn by all classes of people ranging from commoners to emperors. During the Song dynasty, the black muslin, which was mainly used to make the Template:Transliteration, was replaced by other materials, such as muslin or lacquered muslin.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp The Template:Transliteration could also be found with supports made out of wood, and therefore they could look like hats and caps of various styles.<ref name=":0" /> Hard ribbons were also used;<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp and all the Template:Transliteration in this period had hard feet.<ref name=":5" /> There were 5 main types of Template:Transliteration in this period: the Template:Transliteration (also called Template:Zhp which was worn by people of all social classes (including both the upper and lower classes<ref name=":5" />); the "bent-feet" Template:Transliteration, the Template:Zhp, the "upward" Template:Transliteration, and the "downwind" Template:Transliteration.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp
According to the Song Shi, the Template:Transliteration became the national standard form of Template:Transliteration in the Song dynasty for the emperor and the officials on any occasion, except when they had to take a carriage.<ref name=":5" /> The Template:Transliteration worn by the Song dynasty officials had an extended reclined feet; it was developed by having two hard ribbons made out with iron wire or bamboo strips attached at the back of the Template:Transliteration.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp According to the Pedantic Remarks of the Confucians by Yu Yan, this form of Template:Transliteration might have been developed to prevent the officials from whispering to each other during court audience with the Emperor.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp On some special occasions (e.g. the imperial court banquets, or the longevity ceremonies held for the royal family), Song court officials would put flowers on their Template:Transliteration; this was referred as Flower pinning.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp The Song emperors would sometimes send fresh flowers or man-made flowers which were exclusive to the use of the imperial court to his courtier; this later become a form of etiquette in the Song dynasty court.<ref name=":3" />Template:RpIt is also recorded in the Song Shi that the upward Template:Transliteration was used by people (including the Emperor and the officials) when they found themselves in narrow spaces, such as in a carriage.<ref name=":5" />
According to the first volume of the History Narrated at Ease in the section The Etiquette by Wang Dechen (1036 –1116), in the early Song dynasty, a type Template:Transliteration, called front-folded scarf, was worn by some people.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp The front-folded scarf was folded and tied at the front region of the head was worn by some people.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp The back-folded scarf was a type Template:Transliteration which would be bent backward; it started to be worn after the Shaosheng period (i.e. after 1098 AD).<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp Following the Shaosheng period, there were many changes in the styles of Template:Transliteration.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp
There were also other forms of Template:Transliteration, such as the colourful flower-shaped Template:Transliteration embedded with gold lines which were sold in market of Dongjing; the curved-feet Template:Transliteration or the flower-like Template:Transliteration with feet curved backwards were also worn by some warriors; the long feet Template:Transliteration was favoured by the musical instrument plays of the imperial music office; the lustreless Template:Transliteration, and the white crêpe Template:Transliteration which was worn during funerals.<ref name=":3" />Template:Rp
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Zhanjiao Putou Template:Lang-zh | It consisted of a black hat with two wing-like flaps which extends outward. The thin flaps were stiff and straight, and could extend up to almost a meter each. | 
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File:Sima Guang 1.jpg | File:Emperor Yingzong of Song.jpg |
Liao dynasty
In the Khitan-led Liao dynasty, the Khitans shaved their hair in a style called kunfa and wore light hats made of felt or helmets which were more suitable for their horse riding activities instead of wearing the lacquered Template:Transliteration; however the Template:Transliteration did not disappear in this period and continued to be depicted in the Liao dynasty tomb murals, including the curved leg Template:Transliteration.<ref name=":5" />
Yuan dynasty
Template:See also In the Mongol-led Yuan dynasty, the Template:Transliteration continued to be worn since the Yuan dynasty court followed the Song dynasty standards regarding official costumes:<ref name=":5" /> Template:Blockquote
Ming dynasty / "Wushamao" (烏紗帽)
During the Ming dynasty, a type of Template:Transliteration was to be worn by government officials as part of the court uniform, called Template:Zhp.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Template:Transliteration resembled the futou used in the early Tang dynasty, but followed the crafting methods of the Song dynasty by using lacquered muslin and wooden or metal frames to cast its shape. The shape of the feet varies depending on the era, with some resembling the curved leaf appearance of the prior dynasties or the straight wing-like feet in the late Ming dynasty.<ref>Template:Lang</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> The Ming dynasty also kept the tradition of using straight-feet Template:Transliteration; however, by the shape of the Template:Transliteration worn in the Ming dynasty diverted from that worn in the Song dynasty: the feet became shorter with time and some of these Template:Transliteration became less than forty centimetres.<ref name=":5" /> The forty centimetre long straight-feet, painted linen Template:Transliteration was worn by both the military and civil officials for official business according to the Ming Shi.<ref name=":5" /> The feet of the Ming dynasty straight-feet Template:Transliteration were not completely straight and had a curved tip which would bend upwards.<ref name=":5" /> Template:Clear
| Types of futou | Description | Pictures | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Template:Zhp, also known as the Template:Zhp | It is a headwear of Ming dynasty officials, consisting of a black hat with two wing-like flaps of thin, oval shaped boards on each side. According to the Collected Statutes of the Ming Dynasty (Template:Lang), ordinary citizens are not allowed to wear this headdress unless attending wedding ceremonies or events involving any noble families/officials. In modern China, wushamao is commonly used as a metaphor for officials and government posts. The Zhanchi Futou was also adopted by neighbouring countries. | File:沈度半身像.jpgFile:程文德.jpgFile:Xu Xianqing.jpg | ||
| Template:Zhp | It was based on the Song dynasty's zhanjiao putou; in the Ming dynasty, it was worn by Ming civil officials at court assemblies when they would present memorials or retirement notices to the Ming rulers.<ref name=":1" />Template:Rp | File:Gu Dingchen 顾鼎臣.jpgFile:吕光洵.jpgFile:王鏊像.jpg | ||
| File:Zhang Cong.jpg | ||||
| Template:Zhp | A type of futou made of lacquered silk which is formed on a wooden frame. At the back of the hat, there is a tall extension which is molded into 2 symmetrical bulbous shapes; there are 2 ribbons which are fastened to the hat's lower back and straight up extending just beyond the top protrusion.<ref name=":1" />Template:Rp It is also a type of guan. | File:Hongwu2.jpgFile:Portrait de l'empereur Ming Muzong.jpg | ||
| File:Hat, Tomb of Ming Prince Zhu Tan (10144666514).jpg | File:Hat, Tomb of Ming Prince Zhu Tan (10144844026).jpg | File:Golden Crown Replica of King Wanli.jpg | ||
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Derivatives and influences
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See also
References
Template:Ming dynasty topics Template:Types of Han Chinese clothing Template:Hats Template:Historical clothing Template:Crowns