Burberry

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Burberry Group plc is a British luxury fashion house established in 1856 by Thomas Burberry and headquartered in London, England.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> It designs and distributes ready to wear, including trench coats, leather accessories, and footwear. It is listed on the London Stock Exchange and is a constituent of the FTSE 100 Index.

History

Early years

19th century

Burberry was founded in 1856 when 21-year-old Thomas Burberry, a former draper's apprentice, opened his own store in Basingstoke, Hampshire, England.<ref name="history">Template:Cite web</ref> By 1870, the business had established itself by focusing on the development of outdoors attire.<ref name="history"/> In 1879, Burberry introduced gabardine to his brand, a hardwearing, water-resistant yet breathable fabric, in which the yarn is waterproofed before weaving.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> In 1891, Burberry opened a shop in the Haymarket, London.<ref name="history"/>

20th century

Burberry check

In 1901, the Burberry Equestrian Knight logo was developed containing the Latin word "Prorsum", meaning "forwards", and it was registered as a trademark in 1909.<ref name="history"/> In 1911, the company became the outfitters for Roald Amundsen,<ref name="history"/> the first man to reach the South Pole, and Ernest Shackleton, who led a 1914 expedition to cross Antarctica. A Burberry gabardine jacket was worn by George Mallory on his attempt on Mount Everest in 1924.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

Adapted to meet the needs of military personnel, the "trench coat"<ref name="history"/> was born during the First World War; it was worn by British officers in the trenches.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> After the war, it became popular with civilians.<ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref>

A Burberry factory in Basingstoke producing trench coats, 1918

The Burberry check has been in use since at least the 1920s, primarily as a lining in its trench coats.<ref name="history"/> The celebrity motorcycling sisters Betty and Nancy Debenham wore their trench coats for travelling and racing in the 1920s and recommended the garment in their 1928 book Motor-Cycling for Women.<ref name=":1">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Burberry also specially designed aviation garments. They outfitted Mrs Victor Bruce for her 1930 round the world flight and her one woman flight to Japan. She wore a reversible coat with waterproof gabardine outside for flying and with a tweed inner side which could be turned outside to create a smart look for disembarking under the glare of the publicity her exploits attracted.<ref name=":1" /> In 1937, A. E. Clouston and Betty Kirby-Green broke the world record for the fastest return flight from London to Cape Town in The Burberry airplane that was sponsored by the brand.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=":1" /> Burberry was an independent family-controlled company until 1955, when Great Universal Stores (GUS) assumed ownership.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Influences and rise to prominence

During the 1970s and 1980s, Burberry signed agreements with worldwide manufacturers to produce goods complementary to the existing British collection, such as suits, trousers, shirts, sportswear and accessories, for men, women, and children. These products, designed under the strict control of headquarters in London, were produced and distributed through independent retail stores worldwide as well as through the Burberry stores, and contributed to the growth of the brand in sales and profits through to the late 90s, although the full extent of sales was not apparent in the parent company accounts since much was done through licensed agreements. The company had signed Lord Lichfield as photographer, Lord (Leonard) Wolfson was Chairman and Stanley Peacock OBE Managing Director.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref> In 1997, GUS director Victor Barnett became chairman of Burberry, hiring Rose Marie Bravo to execute a corporate reorganization and restoration of the brand as a luxury fashion house.<ref name="Forbes2000">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Barnett led the company up to its successful IPO in 2001.<ref name="WWD2001">Template:Cite news</ref>

21st century

In May 2001, Christopher Bailey joined Burberry as creative director.<ref name="Times Sep 09">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Bailey was the chief creative officer from 2014, as well as chief executive (CEO) from 2014 until November 2017.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Bailey stepped down as chief creative officer in March 2018 and had departed the brand completely by the end of 2018.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

File:Burberry logo.png
The "Equestrian Knight" logo (1999–2018)

Between 2001 and 2005, Burberry became associated with "chav" and football hooligan culture. This change in the brand reputation was attributed to lower priced products, the proliferation of counterfeit goods adopting Burberry's trademark check pattern, and adoption by celebrities prominently identified with "chav" culture. The association with football hooliganism led to the wearing of Burberry check garments being banned at some venues.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

Burberry Group plc was initially floated on the London Stock Exchange in July 2002. GUS divested its remaining interest in Burberry in December 2005.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite webTemplate:Cbignore</ref> In 2005, Sanyo-shokai was the Burberry ready-to-wear licence holder in Japan, with retail value of €435 million.<ref name="Luxury">Template:Cite book</ref>

In 2006, Rose Marie Bravo, who as chief executive had led Burberry to mass market success through licensing, retired.<ref>Template:Cite webTemplate:Cbignore</ref> She was replaced by another American, Angela Ahrendts,<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> who joined from Liz Claiborne in January 2006, and took up the position of CEO on 1 July 2006. Ahrendts and Bailey successfully turned around the then chav-like reputation that the brand had acquired at the end of Bravo's tenure and the cheapening effect of the brand's omnipresence, by removing the brand's check-pattern from all but 10% of the company's products, taking the fragrance and beauty product licenses back in-house and buying out the Spanish franchise that was worth 20% of group revenues.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref><ref name="Times Sep 09" /><ref name="WSJInt">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>The Burberry Story Template:Webarchive Styl.sh. Retrieved 31 January 2014</ref>

Burberry Chicago flagship store on the Magnificent Mile, built in 2012

Burberry first sold online in the US, then in the UK in October 2006, and in the rest of the EU in 2007.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

2010s

It was reported in 2012 that Ahrendts was the highest paid CEO in the UK, making £16.9m.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

In October 2013, it was announced that Ahrendts would take up the position of Senior Vice President of retail and online at Apple, Inc. from April 2014, and would be replaced as CEO by Bailey.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name="Angela Ahrendts Named Honorary DBE">Template:Cite web</ref> During her tenure, sales increased to over £2 billion, and the market capitalization more than tripled to £7 billion.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> Burberry promotes its British origins; as of July 2012, Burberry maintained two production facilities in Great Britain, one in Castleford producing raincoats, and one in Keighley.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> In spring 2014, Bailey became CEO of Burberry and retained the role of chief creative officer.<ref name="Angela Ahrendts Named Honorary DBE"/> His basic salary was £1.1m, with total compensation of up to £10m a year depending on sales targets being met.<ref name="Vote">Template:Cite news</ref>

In July 2016, it was announced that Celine boss Marco Gobbetti would become CEO of Burberry plc, while Bailey became the Creative Director with the title of President.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name="NYT">Template:Cite news</ref> In 2016, the label launched its "Mr Burberry" fragrance.<ref name=ft-vand/>

Cape by Bailey at The Met's exhibit, Camp: Notes on Fashion

In early May 2017, the store announced it was moving 300 employees from London to Leeds. In July 2017, Gobbetti replaced Bailey as CEO.<ref name="ft-vand">Template:Cite news</ref> In March 2018, Burberry named Riccardo Tisci, creative director at Givenchy from 2005 to 2017, as the brand's chief creative officer.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> He said: "I am honoured and delighted to be joining Burberry as its new chief creative officer and reuniting with Marco Gobbetti. I have an enormous respect for Burberry's British heritage and global appeal and I am excited about the potential of this exceptional brand."<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

A few months later, Tisci presented a new logo and monogram for the brand, designed by the English graphic designer Peter Saville.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

The interlocking TB monogram, which pays homage to founder Thomas Burberry, debuted in 2018.<ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref>

In April 2018, it was announced that Sir John Peace would be stepping down as chairman of the board and would be replaced by as chairman by Gerry Murphy.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Murphy said: "Burberry is a unique British brand that I have admired for a long time and I am looking forward to working with Marco Gobbetti and the Board to guide the company through its next phase of growth."<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Murphy had been CEO of Kingfisher plc, as well as being current chairman of Tate and Lyle and Blackstone Group International Partners LLP.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Peace's departure marked a change in leadership for the group, with Gobetti and Ahrends having left in the previous years.<ref name="Butler">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

In May 2018, it was reported that Burberry had filed a lawsuit against Target Corporation, claiming that Target had copied its check print designs and was seeking an amount of $2 million, in addition to its legal costs.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

In July 2018, it was reported that in the previous five years Burberry had destroyed unsold clothes, accessories, and perfume worth over £90m in order to protect its brand and prevent the items being stolen or sold cheaply. While a representative of Greenpeace criticised the decision, Burberry claimed that the energy generated from burning its products was captured, making it environmentally friendly.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> According to Burberry's annual report, by the end of the financial year 2018, the company had destroyed goods worth £28.6m, an increase on the £26.9m from its financial year 2017.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> In September 2018, Burberry reported that it would stop the practice of burning unsold goods, with immediate effect. Burberry also announced it would stop using real fur in its products, and would phase out existing fur items.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

In February 2019, Burberry apologized for showcasing a hoodie with a noose around the neck in its show at the London Fashion Week. Burberry said it had removed the item from its collection, after criticism from one of its own models led to an online backlash.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

2020s

File:Mina Habchi for Burberry.jpg
The classic check pattern on a Burberry jacket and skirt, modeled by Mina Habchi

In February 2020 Burberry was forced to close 24 of its 64 Chinese mainland stores because of the COVID-19 pandemic.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> By July 2020, the company announced it would cut 500 jobs worldwide, including 150 in its UK head offices, in an effort to save £55 million following a reduction in sales due to the COVID-19 pandemic.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref> In 2021, Burberry announced that it would become a "climate positive" company by 2040.<ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> The fashion brand also announced that it would commit to a new target to reduce supply chain emissions (i.e. assets not owned or controlled by the reporting organisation) by 46% by 2030, an increase from an earlier pledge of a 30% reduction.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> In March 2021, Burberry was the first luxury brand to be targeted in China as part of the backlash regarding sanctions against the alleged human rights abuses in Xinjiang.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Brand ambassador and Actress Zhou Dongyu terminated her contract with Burberry.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

In April 2022, after the departure of Marco Gobbetti, the Versace boss Jonathan Akeroyd took over Burberry as the next chief executive in a deal including a £6 million golden hello to cover the loss of bonus and share awards for leaving his previous position.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

In July, 2022, Burberry announced Thai artist Vachirawit Chivaaree as their first Global Brand Ambassador from the South Asia-Pacific Region.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Later in 2022, the company's chief operating and financial officer announced a ban on the use of exotic skins, such as alligator and snake, in its collections.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> In September 2022, Burberry announced designer Daniel Lee, former creative director of Bottega Veneta,<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> as Riccardo Tisci's replacement as the company's chief creative officer.<ref name="BOFLeeBurberry">Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

In February 2023 a new logo and branding was introduced: this brought back the Equestrian Knight logo.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=":0">Template:Cite web</ref> The advertising campaign features British models and musicians Shygirl, Liberty Ross and Skepta.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=":0" />

In April 2023, rapper Kano fronted a Burberry marketing campaign introduced by Lee in February 2023.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> The new direction was phrased as "a modern take on British luxury".<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

In October 2023, Burberry collaborated with Vestiaire Collective on a new circular style project. This partnership would allow customers to exchange their second-hand Burberry clothing and handbags for a Burberry gift card, which they could reinvest in the brand, with the aim of promoting resale and reducing clothing waste.<ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref>

Research by the social democratic party in the European Parliament, the Sheffield Hallam University and other groups accused Burberry in 2023 of using Uyghur forced labour camps provided by the Sunrise Manufacture Group Co. for production of clothing.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Burberry store in Zagreb

In July 2024, the company announced a profit warning and the departure of its chief executive Jonathan Akeroyd, to be replaced by Joshua Schulman.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> The company also reported significant sales declines across its markets in the first quarter, with store sales dropping 23% in the Americas and Asia Pacific, and 16% in Europe, the Middle East, India and Africa. The company's shares fell 15% following the announcement, and it suspended dividend payments. Burberry also revealed plans for job cuts, primarily in its UK corporate office.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

In November 2024, Burberry launched a £40 million cost-cutting program, aiming to stabilize the brand and refocus on its core outerwear and iconic trench coats. As part of the turnaround, Burberry planned to cut £40 million annually, with £25 million expected in the 2025 financial year. Though the company refrained from specifying job cuts, it confirmed it was streamlining office teams. Schulman also introduced a new outerwear campaign and appointed new managers in key divisions. Burberry's shares rose 16% following the announcement, as investors responded positively to the plan.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

In May 2025, the company announced plans to reduce the company's employee headcount by up to 1,700 jobs.<ref name=":2">Template:Cite web</ref> The reduction is part of wider plans to reduce costs of £60 million by the end of 2027.<ref name=":2" />

Music has been integral to the Burberry story since Christopher Bailey's tenure as Chief Creative Officer when he established Burberry Acoustic, a platform championing emerging musicians and showcasing his love for music.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

On 30 November 2022, in an episode of All Elite Wrestling's (AEW) Dynamite, the reigning champion Maxwell Jacob Friedman ('MJF'), who had won the title at Full Gear on 19 November, discarded the standard AEW World Championship belt, calling it trash, and unveiled his own custom version, which he dubbed the "Big Burberry Belt", or Triple-B for short. It featured the exact same design as the standard belt; however, the leather strap was brown and fashioned in Burberry's trademark check pattern to match MJF's signature Burberry scarf.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

On 29 March 2023, a Burberry tote was used in an episode from Succession.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Google searches for Burberry and the "Burberry tote bag" rose by more than 310% after the episode aired.<ref>Template:Cite magazine</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Logos

References

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