Hakodate

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Template:Expand Japanese Template:Infobox settlement Template:Nihongo is a city and port located in Oshima Subprefecture, Hokkaido, Japan. It is the capital city of Oshima Subprefecture. As of January 31, 2024, the city had an estimated population of 239,813 with 138,807 households, and a population density of Template:Convert. The total area is Template:Convert. The city is the third largest in Hokkaido after Sapporo and Asahikawa.

History

Hakodate was Japan's first city whose port was opened to foreign trade in 1854, as a result of Convention of Kanagawa, and used to be the most important port in northern Japan. The city was the biggest city in Hokkaido before the Great Fire of Hakodate in 1934.

Pre–Meiji Restoration

Hakodate (like other parts of around Hokkaido) was originally populated by the Ainu. The name "Hakodate" may have originated from an Ainu word, "hak-casi" ("shallow fort"). Another possibility is that it means "box" or "building" in Japanese which refers to the castle built by the Kono (Kano) clan in the fifteenth century.<ref name=":0">Template:Cite book</ref>

Hakodate was founded in 1454, when Kono Kaganokami Masamichi constructed a large manor house in the fishing village of Usukeshi, the word for bay in Ainu.

After his death, Masamichi's son, Kono Suemichi, and family were driven out of Hakodate into nearby Kameda during the Ainu rebellion in 1512 and little history was recorded for the area during the next 100 years. There was constant low-level conflict in the Oshima peninsula at the time with the Ainu, as armed merchants, like the Kono family, established bases to control trade in the region. This conflict culminated in an uprising from 1669 to 1672, led by Ainu warrior Shakushain after which the Ainu in the region were suppressed.<ref>Capitalism from Within: Economy, Society, and the State in a Japanese Fishery Template:Webarchive, David L. Howell, University of California Press 1995, retrieved 29 June 2007</ref>

Hakodate flourished during the Hoei period (1704–11), and many new temples were founded in the area. The town's fortunes received a further boost in 1741 when the Matsumae clan, which had been granted nearby areas on the Oshima Peninsula as a march fief, moved its Kameda magistracy to Masamichi's house in Hakodate.

In 1779, the Tokugawa shogunate took direct control over Hakodate, which triggered rapid development in the area. Merchant Takadaya Kahei, who is honoured as the founder of Hakodate port, set up trading operations, which included opening the northern Etorofu sea route to the Kuril island fisheries. He is credited with turning Hakodate from a trading outpost into a thriving city. A Hakodate magistracy was established in 1802.<ref>City of Hakodate official website Template:Webarchive, loaded 3 April 2007</ref> By 1807, the power of the Tokugawa government extended to the entire region. However, in 1821, the central government relaxed their control of the area and restored the Matsumae clan to the full powers they had before.<ref name=":0" />

  • Gallery
  • Lithograph entitled "View of Hakodate from Snow Peak" looking towards the sea—artist, Wilhelm Heine (1856)
    Lithograph entitled "View of Hakodate from Snow Peak" looking towards the sea—artist, Wilhelm Heine (1856)
  • Port of Hakodate map Template:Circa
    Port of Hakodate map Template:Circa

Meiji Restoration

The port of Hakodate was surveyed by a fleet of five U.S. ships in 1854 under the conditions of the Convention of Kanagawa, as negotiated by Commodore Matthew C. Perry.

Hakodate port partially opened to foreign ships for provisioning in the following year and then completely to foreign trade on 2 June 1859 as one of five Japanese open ports designated in the 1858 Treaty of Amity and Commerce signed with the U.S. The Hakodate foreign settlement is one of the legacies of foreign influence in Hakodate.

A mariner in Perry's fleet died during a visit to the area and became the first U.S. citizen to be buried in Japan when he was interred in Hakodate's cemetery for foreigners.

British merchant, naturalist and spy Thomas Blakiston took up residence in Hakodate in the summer of 1861 to establish a saw-milling business. He stayed in Hakodate until 1884, during which time he documented the local natural environment, equipped the local meteorological station and ran guns to the Boshin War rebels.<ref>Japan in Yezo, Thomas Wright Blakiston, Yokohama: Japan Gazette, 1883. Online excerpts Template:Webarchive, retrieved 12 July 2007.</ref>

As one of few points of Japanese contact with the outside world, Hakodate was soon host to several overseas consulates. The Russian consulate included a chapel from where Nicholas of Japan is credited with introducing Eastern Orthodox Christianity to Japan in 1861 (now the Japanese Orthodox Church). The Orthodox church is neighbored by several other historical missionary churches, including Anglican and Catholic.

Hakodate also played a central role in the Boshin War between the Tokugawa shogunate and the Meiji Emperor which followed Perry's opening of Japan. Shogunate rebel Enomoto Takeaki fled to Hakodate with the remnants of his navy and his handful of French advisers in winter 1868, including Jules Brunet. They formally established the Republic of Ezo on December 25. The republic tried unsuccessfully to gather international recognition to foreign legations in Hakodate, including the Americans, French, and Russians. The Naval Battle of Hakodate was fought from 4 to 10 May 1869, between the remnants of the Tokugawa shogunate navy and the newly formed Imperial Japanese Navy. It was a decisive victory for the Imperial Japanese Navy.

On 14 June 1868, Hakodate was designated as an urban prefecture (府 fu), one of the first two, the other being Kyoto. On February 8, 1882, it was enlarged into Hakodate-ken, and then became part of Hokkaido on January 26, 1886.

The rebels occupied Hakodate's famous European-style Goryōkaku fort and used it as the centre of their defences in southern Hokkaido. Government forces defeated the secessionists in the Battle of Hakodate in 1869 and the city and fort were surrendered to emperor. Military leader, Hijikata Toshizō, was one of those slain in the fighting.

In 1878, Isabella Bird reported of the city in her travelogue:

The streets are very wide and clean, but the houses are mean and low. The city looks as if it had just recovered from a conflagration. The houses are nothing but tinder… Stones, however, are its prominent feature. Looking down upon it from above you see miles of grey boulders, and realise that every roof in the windy capital is "hodden doun" by a weight of paving stones.

20th century to present day

Template:See also Hakodate was awarded city status on August 1, 1922. On March 21, 1934, a serious fire had destroyed around two-thirds of all the buildings in Hakodate. This event also led to many residents leaving and subsequently depopulating the city.<ref name=":0" /> The city escaped most of the ravages of World War II. Areas around Hakodate-yama were fortified and access restricted to the public. Many prisoners of war were interned in Hakodate and historians record a total of 10 camps.<ref>Hakodate POW Camp Group: Camp Histories 1942 TO 1945 Template:Webarchive, Center for Research Allied Pows under the Japanese, loaded 29 June 2007.</ref> The city was subjected to two Allied bombing raids on 14 and 15 July 1945. Around 400 homes were destroyed on the western side of Hakodate-yama and an Aomori-Hakodate ferry was attacked with 400 passengers killed.

In 1976, a defecting Soviet pilot named Viktor Belenko flew his plane into the civilian airport in Hakodate.

Hakodate's size nearly doubled on December 1, 2004, when the town of Minamikayabe (from Kayabe District), and the towns of Esan and Toi, and the village of Todohokke (all from Kameda District), were merged into it.

The Hokkaido Shinkansen line opened on 26 March 2016.<ref name="doshin20150812">Template:Cite web</ref> The undersea Seikan Tunnel with the Shinkansen rail line greatly reduced the travel time from Honshu to Hakodate.

In April 2023, Jun Ōizumi became the mayor of Hakodate. Ōizumi, the older brother of actor Yo Oizumi, defeated 3-term incumbent Toshiki Kudō, receiving more than 80% of the vote.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

  • Gallery
  • Hakodate Port circa 1930
    Hakodate Port circa 1930
  • Photograph of a large number of propeller-driven monoplanes dropping bombs
    US Navy Grumman TBF Avenger aircraft dropping bombs on Hakodate during July 1945

Geography

Evening view from Mount Hakodate

Mount Hakodate was originally an island that was formed by volcanic eruptions millions of years ago.<ref name="hakodate-travel"/> During the course of history a sand bar formed between Mount Hakodate and the peninsula.<ref name="hakodate-travel"/> This landform, which is an example of a tombolo, finished forming circa 1000 BCE.<ref name="hakodate-travel"/> The tombolo connects the former Hakodate island with the main island Hokkaido to the north.<ref name="hakodate-travel"/> The main central area of Hakodate city is located on the sandbar.<ref name="hakodate-travel">Template:Cite web</ref>

Hakodate is located at the center of Kameda Peninsula. The city is overlooked by Mount Hakodate. The summit can be reached by hiking trail, cable car, or by car. Visitors can also reach the peak of Mount Hakodate by taking tour bus and/or direct bus.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> that departs from JR Hakodate Station. An obscure local nickname of the bumpy mountain is Gagyūzan (Mount Cow's Back), alluding to the way the mountain resembles a resting cow.

The former Goryōkaku fort is now used in as a public park and is popular in Hokkaido for hanami (cherry blossom viewing). Since April 2006, the park has also featured the tall, white Goryōkaku Tower. Resembling an air traffic control tower, the structure offers a panoramic view of the park, including mainland Japan across the Tsugaru Strait on clear days.

Nearby cities and towns

Mountains

Aerial view of Hakodate with Mount Hakodate on the left side (2012)

Rivers

Cityscape

Hakodate has a cityscape that covers the center of the Kameda peninsula. A narrow land area separates Hakodate Bay to the west from Tsugaru Strait in the south-east side. It is best viewed from the top of Mount Hakodate. Template:Wide image

Demographics

The population of Hakodate increased by 402% from 28,825 to 144,749 between 1873 till 1920. Hakodate's population peaked in 1980 at 320,154, but has been gradually in decline due to aging since then.<ref name="e-stat">Template:Cite web</ref>

Template:Historical populations

Climate

According to the Köppen climate classification, Hakodate's climate is Hot Summer humid continental (Dfa) of hot summers and winters with regular intense blizzards. With an alternate definition, using the Template:Cvt isotherm, Hakodate falls in the Humid Subtropical Climate (Cfa) commonly found on the east coast of the continents. The warmest month has an average temperature of Template:Cvt. And so the city is the limit of hot summer climates for a city on the immediate coast in Japan (Cfa/Dfa), although appearing in other interior regions of the province.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Hakodate has snowy winters and warm, humid summers. Winters are cold for the latitude (the same as Northern California) but milder than much of Hokkaido.

Hakodate features four distinct seasons. The city sees a substantial amount of snowfall during the course of the year, averaging roughly Template:Cvt of snow annually. Spring typically begins with some snowfall, but sees a gradual warming trend as the season progress. Summers are generally warm but not hot, with average high temperatures in the warmest month (August) hovering around Template:Cvt. Fall initially is warm but becomes increasingly colder as the season progress. It is not uncommon to see snowfall in the latter parts of the fall season. Template:Weather box

Template:Graph:Weather monthly history

Economy

Prior to its dissolution, Air Hokkaido was headquartered in Hakodate.<ref>"会社案内." Air Hokkaido. June 11, 2004. Retrieved on May 20, 2009.</ref> In January 2006, the regional airline Airtransse was headquartered in Hakodate.<ref>"会社概要." Airtransse. January 6, 2006. Retrieved on May 20, 2009.</ref>

Culture and landmarks

Hakodate shio (salt) ramen
A Manhole cover
Hollow Dogū, the only National Treasure in Hokkaidō, is exhibited at the Hakodate Jōmon Culture Center

In Funami-cho there is the Koryu-ji temple. It's the oldest Buddhist temple (affiliated with the Soto school) in the region which was built in 1633. It was badly damaged during the Boshin War and moved to its current location in 1879. The existing main building was built in 1900.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

The city is well known for seafood and sushi. Hakodate shio (salt) ramen is also a famous specialty of the city. Shio ramen has a pale, clear, broth made with plenty of salt and any combination of chicken, pork bone, vegetables, fish, and seaweed.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> On a similar note, Hakodate's city fish is the squid. Hakodate is famous for the restaurant Ikkatei Tabiji, which serves a dish called "dancing squid": - a recently deceased squid is served with soy sauce, the sodium of the soy sauce causes a cadaveric spasm when it is poured over the squid.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Every year (August) the city gets together for the Hakodate Port Festival. Many citizens gather in the streets to dance a wiggly dance known as the Ika-odori (Squid Dance), the name of which describes the dance appropriately. The glowing lights of squid-catching boats can be seen in the waters surrounding the city.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref> The bell of Haristos Orthodox Church is one of the 100 Soundscapes of Japan.

The Hakodate Fish Market (otherwise known as the Asaichi or the Morning Market) is approximately 10-minute walk from the JR Hakodate Station. It is open daily and boasts hundreds of fish and sea food stands in addition to restaurants. Popular fares include sea urchin and calamari, the famous Japanese snow crab from the famous Hokkaido waters.

Transportation

A map of Hakodate tram: red and blue represent trams, grey represents rail, dashed purple represents Mt. Hakodate ropeway, while dashed blue represents ferries
Hakodate railway Station
Hakodate Airport
Hakodate tram

Hakodate Transportation Bureau operates tram lines.

The Hokkaido Shinkansen opened in March 2016. It currently runs to Shin-Hakodate-Hokuto Station through the Seikan Tunnel from Shin-Aomori Station. The new terminal is Template:Cvt away from Hakodate Station. There are plans to extend the Hokkaido Shinkansen north to Sapporo Station by 2038.

Media

In Hakodate, there are mass media and information and telecommunications providers such as newspaper companies, TV broadcasters, community broadcasters, and cable TV operators.

Newspapers

  • Hakodate Newspaper

Television

  • HBC Hakodate Broadcasting Station
  • NHK Hakodate Broadcasting Station
  • STV Hakodate Broadcasting Station

Radio

  • FM Iruka

Cable TV

  • NCV Hakodate Center

Education

Universities

National

Public

Private

Colleges

National

High schools

Public

  • Hakodate City High School
  • Hokkaido Hakodate Chubu High School
  • Hokkaido Hakodate Commercial High School
  • Hokkaido Hakodate Nishi High School
  • Hokkaido Hakodate Ryohoku High School
  • Hokkaido Hakodate Technical High School
  • Hokkaido Minamikayabe High School
  • Hokkaido Toi High School

Private

Sister cities

Notable people

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References

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Template:Hokkaido Template:Metropolitan cities of Japan Template:Most populous cities in Japan Template:Authority control

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