Solo climbing

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Solo climbing on Mount Logan

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Solo climbing (or soloing) is a style of climbing in which the climber ascends a climbing route alone and deliberately without the assistance of a belayer (or "second"), or being part of any rope team. By its very nature, solo climbing presents a higher degree of risk to the climber as they are entirely relient on their own skills (e.g. climbing technique, navigation) and their own equipment to complete the climbing route – any serious problems may require a self-rescue.

Solo climbing is most common in mountaineering and more laterly in the more demanding sub-disciplines of alpine climbing and of rope solo climbing. The most dangerous form of solo climbing is that of free solo climbing, which means both climbing alone and also without using any form of climbing protection, as was dramatically portrayed in the climbing films Free Solo (for rock climbing) and The Alpinist (for ice climbing and for alpine climbing).<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

With climbing protection

The following types of solo climbing use some form of climbing protection, which typically involves around a mechanical self-locking device (or progress capture/assisted braking device) that — when used properly with a rope and standard protection — reduces the risk of serious or fatal injury to the climber:<ref name=CFS/>

  • Rope solo climbing is climbing alone but with a rope to help arrest a fall, or for a self-rescue if required.<ref name=CFS/><ref>Template:Cite book</ref> Instead of having a belayer, the climber uses a self-locking device that will hold the rope in the case of a fall, and leads the route in a traditional climbing manner, placing climbing protection as they ascend. One end of the rope is anchored below the climber and the climber pays-out the rope through the self-locking device as they ascend. Once they reach the top, they need to abseil down and re-ascend the route with an ascender, to remove the protection they placed earlier.<ref name=Alpinist/>
In 1992, French climber Catherine Destivelle used a self-locking device to rope-solo the first part of the traditional climbing route El Matador Template:Climbing grade, on the Devils Tower in Wyoming (she free soloed the second part), and was captured in the climbing film, Ballade à Devil's Tower.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> In 1992, Destivelle used rope solo technique to create Voie Destivelle (VI 5.11b A5) on the west face of the Petit Dru, and was captured in the climbing film, 11 Days on the Dru.<ref name=PM5>Template:Cite web</ref> In 2016, Pete Whittaker rope-soloed the Template:Convert 35-pitch route Freerider in Yosemite in a single day.<ref name=Alpinist>Template:Cite web</ref>
  • Top rope solo climbing is a form of top roping where a single static fixed rope, anchored to the top of the route, is laid along the length of the climb. The climber then clips-into the fixed rope using at least one progress capture device (PCD) such as a Petzl Micro Traxion or a Camp Lift, that will allow the rope to pay-through as the climber ascends but will grip the rope tightly in the event of a fall.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=GJ>Template:Cite web</ref>
  • Auto belay indoor climbing is usually a form of top roping (there are lead auto-belay devices) where the belayer is replaced by a mechanical device fixed the top (or bottom for lead auto-belay) of the route.<ref name=CL20>Template:Cite web</ref>

Without climbing protection

Free solo climbing (sometimes also just called soloing)<ref name=CFS>Template:Cite web</ref> is where the solo-climber uses no climbing protection (or any form of climbing aids), whatsoever, except for their climbing shoes and climbing chalk (for a rock-climber) or ice tools (for an ice-climber), to ascend a climbing route.<ref name=CFS/>

Free soloing is the most dramatic soloing-technique and in 2017 became an Oscar-winning documentary film, Free Solo featuring Alex Honnold free soloing the Template:Convert big wall route Freerider in Yosemite, the world's first-ever free solo of a Template:Climbing grade big wall route.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

There are a number of sub-classes of free soloing:

In film

A number of notable films have been made focused on solo (and free solo) climbing (on rock and/or on ice) including:<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

See also

  • Aid climbing, where the climber uses mechanical aids to help ascend a route (i.e. not just for protection)
  • Traditional climbing, which requires the climber to place their climbing protection during the climb
  • Sport climbing, that uses pre-placed bolted climbing protection

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References

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