Queen Elizabeth Islands

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File:Map indicating the Queen Elizabeth (or Parry) Islands, northern Canada.png
Queen Elizabeth Islands, northern Canada.
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The Queen Elizabeth Islands (Template:Langx) are the northernmost cluster of islands in Canada's Arctic Archipelago, split between Nunavut and the Northwest Territories in Northern Canada. The Queen Elizabeth Islands contain approximately 14% of the global glacier and ice cap area (excluding the inland and shelf ice sheets of Greenland and Antarctica).<ref name="EAS2011">Template:Cite journal</ref> The southern islands are called the Parry Islands or Parry Archipelago.Template:NoteTag

Geography

The islands, together Template:Convert<ref name="taoc"/> in area, were renamed as a group after Elizabeth II on her coronation as Queen of Canada in 1953. The islands cover an area approximately the shape of a right triangle, bounded by the Nares Strait on the east, Parry Channel on the south and the Arctic Ocean to the north and west. Most are uninhabited although the Natural Resources Canada's Climate Change Geoscience Program Earth Sciences Sector (ESS), has monitors on the islands.<ref name=Fekete2014/> In 1969 Panarctic Oils, now part of Suncor Energy, began operating exploration oil wells in the Franklinian and Sverdrup basins and planned on establishing its resource base in the Queen Elizabeth Islands. It ceased production in the 1970s. At the 2013 GeoConvention the Arctic Islands region were called Canada's perpetual "last petroleum exploration frontier". Hogg and Enachescu argued that the development and implementation of advanced marine and land seismic technologies in Alaska, Northern Europe and Siberia could be modified for use in the Queen Elizabeth Islands.<ref>Template:Cite conference</ref>

Queen Elizabeth Islands had not been fully charted until the British Northwest Passage expeditions and later Norwegian exploration of the 19th century.

These islands were known as the Parry Archipelago for over 130 years. They were first named after British Arctic explorer Sir William Parry, who sailed there in 1820, aboard the Hecla. Since the renaming of the archipelago in 1953, the term Parry Islands continued to be used for its southwestern part (less Ellesmere Island and the Sverdrup Islands). The regional break down of the archipelago is therefore as follows:

  • Ellesmere Island
  • Sverdrup Islands
  • Parry Islands

Ellesmere Island is the northernmost and by far the largest. The Sverdrup Islands are located west of Ellesmere Island and north of Norwegian Bay. The remaining islands further south and west, but north of the Parry Channel (Lancaster Sound, Viscount Melville Sound and M'Clure Strait), have been carrying the name Parry Islands, which name until 1953 had also included the Sverdrup Islands and Ellesmere Island. South of the Parry Channel are the remaining islands of the Arctic Archipelago.

The islands lay on top of and were formed by the movement of the Queen Elizabeth Islands Subplate.

Major islands

Many of the islands are among the largest in the world, the largest being Ellesmere Island. Other major islands include Amund Ringnes Island, Axel Heiberg Island, Bathurst Island, Borden Island, Cornwall Island, Cornwallis Island, Devon Island, Eglinton Island, Ellef Ringnes Island, Mackenzie King Island, Melville Island, and Prince Patrick Island.<ref name="taoc">Template:Cite web</ref>

Smaller islands

Other smaller but notable islands include; Beechey Island (Template:Coord), which held the graves of Petty Officer John Torrington, Royal Marine Private William Braine, and Able Seaman John Hartnell, three members of Sir John Franklin's crew who took part in his lost expedition,<ref>Researches for Sir John Franklin</ref><ref>Franklin timeline Template:Webarchive</ref> Hans Island (Template:Coord), a small, uninhabited barren knoll measuring Template:Convert whose ownership was disputed by Canada and Denmark until 14 June 2022, when both countries agreed to split the disputed island roughly in half.,<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> the Cheyne Islands (Template:Coord), three small (Template:Convert together) islands that are Important Bird Area (#NU049) and a Key Migratory Bird Terrestrial Habitat site (NU site 5)<ref>Cheyne Islands Template:Webarchive</ref> and Skraeling Island (Template:Coord) an important archaeological site where Inuit (along with their ancestors the Dorset and Thule) and Norse artifacts have been found.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> They consist of Silurian and Carboniferous rocks covered with tundra.

Population

With a population of less than 400, the islands are nearly uninhabited. There are only three permanently inhabited places in the islands. The two municipalities are the hamlets of Resolute (population 198 as of the 2016 census<ref name="census2016YRB">Template:Cite web</ref>), on Cornwallis Island, and Grise Fiord (population 129 as of the 2016 census<ref name="census2016YGZ">Template:Cite web</ref>), on Ellesmere Island. Alert is a weather station staffed by Environment and Climate Change Canada, a Global Atmosphere Watch (GAW) atmosphere monitoring laboratory on Ellesmere Island, and has several temporary inhabitants due to the co-located CFS Alert. Eureka, a small research base on Ellesmere Island, has a population of zero but at least eight staff on a continuous rotational basis.

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Name Image Type Island Population Established Coordinates Notes
Alert File:NOAA - Alert, Nunavut, Canada.jpg Weather station, Canadian Forces base (CFS Alert), airport (Alert Airport) Ellesmere 5 1950<ref group="Note">The weather station was established in 1950 and the military station was established in 1958</ref>

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Alexandra Fiord Research station Ellesmere 0 1953

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Camp Hazen Warden station Ellesmere 0 1957

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Cape Columbia Depot   North Pole expedition depot Ellesmere 0 1909

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  • location for Robert Peary's northernmost depot of his final attempt to reach the North Pole
Cape Sheridan   North Pole expedition wintering site Ellesmere 0 1908

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  • location for Robert Peary's wintering site of his final attempt to reach the North Pole
  • 13.5 km ESE of Alert
Craig Harbour File:Craig Harbour 1926.jpg Royal Canadian Mounted Police (RCMP) detachment Ellesmere 0 1922

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Dundas Harbour File:Johnson Bay Settlement Dundas Harbour Qikiqtaaluk Nunuvut Canada.jpg Outpost, RCMP detachment Devon 0 1924

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  • Established in 1924 to create a government presence to curb foreign whaling and other activity in the area<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>
Eureka File:Downtown Eureka, Nunavut -e.jpg Weather station, research station, aerodrome (Eureka Aerodrome) Ellesmere 0 1947

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  • Founded in 1947 as part of a requirement to set up a network of Arctic weather stations
  • May have up to eight people on a rotating basis
Flashline Mars Arctic Research Station File:FMARS 2009 hab.jpg Research station Devon 0 1999

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  • The structures were built in 2000
Fort Conger File:Fort Conger, Grinnell Land, May 20, 1883.jpg Research station Ellesmere 0 1883

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  • Established in 1881 but abandoned several decades later
Grise Fiord File:Downtown Grise Fiord.jpg Hamlet, airport (Grise Fiord Airport) Ellesmere 129 1953 Template:Coord
Isachsen File:Isachsen-1974-bw-1b.jpg Weather station, research station Ellef Ringnes 0 1948 Template:Coord
McGill Arctic Research Station Research station Axel Heiberg 0 1959 Template:Coord
Mould Bay File:Mould Bay Weather Station.jpg Weather station Prince Patrick 0 1948 Template:Coord
Resolute File:Resolute Bay 1 1997-08-02.jpg Hamlet, airport (Resolute Bay Airport) Cornwallis 229 1947

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  • Created as part of the High Arctic relocation
  • Most populous settlement in the Queen Elizabeth Islands
  • Second northernmost public community in Canada, only behind Grise Fiord
Tanquary Fiord File:Tanquary Fiord 15 1997-08-05.jpg Warden station Ellesmere 0 ??

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Ward Hunt Island File:Ward Hunt Island, Ice Shelf 01.jpg Warden station Ward Hunt Island 0 1960s?

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Formerly staffed stations were Mould Bay on Prince Patrick Island, Isachsen on Ellef Ringnes Island, and Fort Conger on Ellesmere Island.

Abandoned settlements are Dundas Harbour on Devon Island and Craig Harbour on Ellesmere Island.

Administration

Until 1999, the Queen Elizabeth Islands were part of the Baffin Region of the Northwest Territories.

With the creation of Nunavut in 1999 all islands and fractions of islands of the archipelago east of the 110th meridian west became part of the Qikiqtaaluk Region of the new territory, which was the major portion of the archipelago. The rest remained with the now-reduced Northwest Territories. Borden Island, Mackenzie King Island and Melville Island were divided between the two territories.

Prince Patrick Island, Eglinton Island and Emerald Island are the only notable islands that are now completely part of the Northwest Territories.

Below the level of the territory, there is the municipal level of administration. On that level, there are only two municipalities, Resolute and Grise Fiord, with an aggregate area of Template:Convert (0.11 percent of the area of the Queen Elizabeth Islands), but with most of the population of the archipelago (327 in 2021). The remaining 99.89 percent are unincorporated area, with a census 2021 population of zero, albeit a fluctuating population centred in Alert and Eureka, Nunavut.

Overview of the islands

According to the Atlas of Canada there are 34 larger and 2,092 smaller islands in the archipelago.<ref name="taoc"/> With the exception of Ellesmere Island, they fall into two groups, the Sverdrup Islands and the Parry Islands:

Island sub-
group
Territory Peak Height
m
Height
ft
Area
km2
Area
sq mi
Rank
Canada
Rank
World
Coordinates
Alexander<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU average elevation align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 66   Template:Coord
Amund Ringnes<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Template:HsSverdrup NU ridge align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 25 111 Template:Coord
Axel Heiberg<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsSverdrup NU Outlook Peak align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 7 32 Template:Coord
Baillie-Hamilton Island<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Template:HsParry NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 91   Template:Coord
Bathurst<ref>Bathurst Island at Bivouac.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU Stokes Mountain align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 13 54 Template:Coord
Borden<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU/NT   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 30 170 Template:Coord
Brock<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NT   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 58 383 Template:Coord
Buckingham Island<ref>Buckingham Island at the Atlas of Canada Template:Dead linkTemplate:Cbignore</ref> Template:HsParry NU Mount Windsor align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 137   Template:Coord
Byam Martin<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 42 294 Template:Coord
Cameron<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU Mount Wilmot     align="right" Template:Convert 46 312 Template:Coord
Coburg Island<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 83   Template:Coord
Cornwall<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsSverdrup NU McLeod Peak align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 31 184 Template:Coord
Cornwallis<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 21 96 Template:Coord
Devon<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Template:HsParry NU Devon Ice Cap align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 6 27 Template:Coord
Eglinton<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NT   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 36 249 Template:Coord
Ellef Ringnes<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsSverdrup NU Isachsen Dome align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 16 69 Template:Coord
Ellesmere<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:Hs NU Barbeau Peak align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 3 10 Template:Coord
Emerald Isle<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NT   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 63 466 Template:Coord
Graham<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Template:HsSverdrup NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 38 265 Template:Coord
Griffith Island<ref>Griffith Island at the Atlas of Canada Template:Dead linkTemplate:Cbignore</ref> Template:HsParry NU       align="right" Template:Convert 110   Template:Coord
Helena Island<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU average in southern hills align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 85   Template:Coord
Hoved Island<ref>Hoved Island at the Atlas of Canada Template:Dead linkTemplate:Cbignore</ref> Template:HsParry NU       align="right" Template:Convert 125   Template:Coord
Template:SortÎle Vanier<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 44 298 Template:Coord
King Christian<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Template:HsSverdrup NU King Christian Mountain align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 60 420 Template:Coord
Little Cornwallis Island<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU       align="right" Template:Convert 75   Template:Coord
Lougheed<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 41 273 Template:Coord
Lowther Island<ref>Lowther Island at the Atlas of Canada Template:Dead linkTemplate:Cbignore</ref> Template:HsParry NU raised beach align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 133   Template:Coord
Mackenzie King<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU/NT Castel Butte align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 26 115 Template:Coord
Massey<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 71   Template:Coord
Meighen<ref>Meighen Island at arctic.uoguelph.ca</ref> Template:HsSverdrup NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 50 337 Template:Coord
Melville<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU/NT   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 8 33 Template:Coord
North Kent<ref>Template:Cite web at oceandots.com</ref> Template:HsParry NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 62 453 Template:Coord
Prince Patrick<ref>Prince Patrick Island at peakbagger.com</ref> Template:HsParry NT   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 14 55 Template:Coord
Stor Island<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Template:HsSverdrup NU   align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert 87   Template:Coord
remaining 2,092 islands<ref name="taoc"/> NU/NT align="right" Template:Convert ... ...
Queen Elizabeth<ref name="taoc"/>   NU/NT Barbeau Peak align="right" Template:Convert align="right" Template:Convert ... ... Template:Coord

Glaciers and ice caps

In 2000 it was estimated that the Queen Elizabeth Islands were covered by about Template:Convert glaciers that represent c.14% of all glaciers and ice caps in the world.<ref name=EAS2011/> According to a 2011 report, the surface mass balance of four, the Devon Ice Cap measured Template:Convert (northwest sector only); the Meighen Ice Cap measured Template:Convert; the Melville South Ice Cap measured Template:Convert and the White Glacier, Axel Heiberg Island glacier was Template:Convert.<ref name=EAS2011/> The size of these glaciers has been measured since 1961 and their results published in such distinguished journals as the International Glaciological Society's Annals of Glaciology.<ref name=EAS2011/><ref name=Cogley>Template:Cite journal</ref><ref name=Koerner2005>Template:Cite journal</ref>

Of the four ice caps that the federal government's NRCan's Climate Change Geoscience Program Earth Sciences Sector (ESS), monitors onsite in the Canadian High Arctic, three are in the Queen Elizabeth Islands: Devon, Meighen and Melville.<ref name=Fekete2014>Template:Cite news</ref> A 2013 Natural Resources Canada memo says that shrinking of the ice caps started in the late 1980s, and has accelerated rapidly since 2005. The increased melt rate was confirmed by University of California, Irvine in 2017.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Computer analysis of a glacier inventory of Axel Heiberg Island was undertaken in the 1960s.<ref name="Müller1969">Template:Cite journal</ref> Later inventories of the World Glacier Monitoring Service under the direction of Fritz Müller, who worked on glacier inventories internationally, included the Axel Heiberg Island glacier.<ref name=Muller1981>Template:Cite journal</ref>

Other glaciers and ice caps in the Queen Elizabeth Islands include the Agassiz Ice Cap, Benedict Glacier, Disraeli Glacier, Eugenie Glacier, Gull Glacier, Parrish Glacier, Sven Hedin Glacier and the Turnabout Glacier.

See also

Notes

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References

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Template:Queen Elizabeth Islands Template:Islands of the Qikiqtaaluk Region Template:Elizabeth II Template:Authority control