Baffin Island

Template:Short description Template:Use Canadian English Template:Use mdy dates Template:Infobox islands

Baffin Island (formerly Baffin Land),<ref>Baffin Island / Île de Baffin (Formerly Baffin Land)</ref> in the Canadian territory of Nunavut, is the largest island in Canada, the second-largest island in the Americas (behind Greenland), and the fifth-largest island in the world. Its area is Template:Cvt (slightly smaller than Thailand) with a population density of 0.03/km²; the population was 13,039 according to the 2021 Canadian census;<ref name=2021censusNU/> and it is located at Template:Coord. It also contains the city of Iqaluit (with a population of around 7,000), which is the capital of Nunavut.

Name

The Inuktitut name for the island is Template:Transliteration,<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> which means "very big island" (Template:Transliteration "island" + Template:Nowrap "very big") and in Inuktitut syllabics is written as Template:Lang. This name is used for the administrative region the island is part of (Qikiqtaaluk Region), as well as in multiple places in Nunavut and the Northwest Territories,<ref>Canadian Geographical Names Database (CGNDB) Search Results for Qikiqtaaluk</ref> such as some smaller islands: Qikiqtaaluk in Baffin Bay and Qikiqtaaluk in Foxe Basin. Norse explorers are believed to have referred to it as Template:Lang ("stone land").<ref name="nunnews" />

In 1576, English seaman Martin Frobisher, the namesake of Frobisher Bay, made landfall on the island, naming it "Queen Elizabeth's Foreland".<ref>McDermott, James (2001a). Martin Frobisher: Elizabethan Privateer. Yale University Press. Template:ISBN, page 139</ref> The island is named after English explorer William Baffin, who, in 1616,<ref>Template:Cite EB1911</ref> came across the island while trying to discover the Northwest Passage.<ref name="geo">Template:Cite book</ref>

It was also formerly known as James Island.<ref>Template:Citation.</ref>

Geography

Iqaluit, the capital of Nunavut, is located on the southeastern coast. Until 1987, the town was called Frobisher Bay, after the English name for Frobisher Bay on which it is located, named for Martin Frobisher.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> That year, the community voted to restore the Inuktitut name.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

To the south lies Hudson Strait, separating Baffin Island from mainland Quebec.<ref name="baff">Template:Cite web</ref> South of the western end of the island is the Fury and Hecla Strait,<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> which separates the island from the Melville Peninsula<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> on the mainland. To the east are Davis Strait<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> and Baffin Bay,<ref name="bff">Template:Cite web with Greenland to the east</ref> with Greenland beyond.<ref name="baff"/> Prince Regent Inlet and the Gulf of Boothia separate the island from the Somerset Island and Boothia Peninsula, respectively. The Foxe Basin, with the Prince Charles Island, is in the southwest.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> In the north, the Lancaster Sound<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> separates it from the Devon Island and the rest of the Queen Elizabeth Islands.

The Baffin Mountains run along the northeastern coast of the island and are a part of the Arctic Cordillera. The highest peak is Mount Odin, with an elevation of at least Template:Cvt, although some sources say Template:Cvt.<ref>Template:Cite peakbagger</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Another peak of note is Mount Asgard, located in Auyuittuq National Park, with an elevation of Template:Cvt. Mount Thor, with an elevation of Template:Cvt, is said to have the greatest purely vertical drop (a sheer cliff face) of any mountain on Earth, at Template:Cvt.<ref>Template:Cite web Template:Dead link</ref>

The two largest lakes on the island lie in the south-central part of the island: Nettilling Lake (Template:Cvt) and Amadjuak Lake (Template:Cvt) further south.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

History

Baffin Island has been inhabited for over 3,000 years, first by the pre-Dorset, followed by the Dorset, and then by the Thule people, ancestors of the Inuit, who have lived on the island for the last thousand years.<ref name="Brooke2016">Template:Cite encyclopedia</ref><ref name="CBC 2018"/> The Thule people genetically and culturally completely replaced the Dorset people some time after 1300 CE.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

In about 986, Erik Thorvaldsson, known as Erik the Red,<ref name="Wallace 2003">Template:Cite journal</ref> formed three settlements near the southwestern tip of Greenland.<ref name=Brown2000>The Fate of Greenland's Vikings, by Dale Mackenzie Brown, Archaeological Institute of America, February 28, 2000</ref> In late 985 or 986, Bjarni Herjólfsson, sailing from Iceland to Greenland, was blown off course and sighted land southwest of Greenland. Bjarni appears to be the first European to see Baffin Island, and the first European to see North America beyond Greenland.<ref name="Wallace 2003"/> About 15 years later the Norse Greenlanders, led by Leif Erikson, a son of Erik the Red, started exploring new areas around the year 1000.<ref name="Wallace 2003"/> Baffin Island is thought to be Helluland, and the archaeological site at Tanfield Valley is thought to have been a trading post.<ref name="Þórðarson">Template:Cite news</ref><ref>CBC, The Nature of Things episode "The Norse: An Arctic Mystery", season 2012–2013, episode 5, airdate November 22, 2012; archived at the Wayback Machine, November 27, 2012.</ref> The Saga of Erik the Red, 1880 translation into English by J. Sephton from the original Icelandic Template:Langx:

Template:Blockquote In September 2008, the Nunatsiaq News, a weekly newspaper, reported that Patricia Sutherland, who worked at the Canadian Museum of Civilization, had found archaeological remains of yarn and cordage [string], rat droppings, tally sticks, a carved wooden Dorset culture face mask depicting Caucasian features, and possible architectural remains, which indicated that European traders and possibly settlers had been on Baffin Island not later than 1000 CE.<ref name=nunnews>Template:Cite news</ref> What the source of this Old World contact may have been is unclear and controversial;<ref name="CBC 2018">Template:Cite web</ref><ref name="Globe 2014">Template:Cite news</ref><ref name=barber1992>Barber, Elizabeth Wayland (1992) Prehistoric Textiles: The Development of Cloth in the Neolithic and Bronze Ages with Special Reference to the Aegean, Princeton University Press, "We now have at least two pieces of evidence that this important principle of twisting for strength dates to the Palaeolithic. In 1953, the Abbé Glory was investigating floor deposits in a steep corridor of the famed Lascaux caves in southern France [...] a long piece of Palaeolithic cord [...] neatly twisted in the S direction [...] from three Z-plied strands [...]" Template:ISBN</ref><ref name="JAS2018">Template:Cite journal</ref><ref name="LS2019"/> the newspaper article states:

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Sutherland's research eventually led to a 2012 announcement that whetstones had been found with remnants of alloys indicative of Viking presence.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> In 2018, Michele Hayeur Smith of Brown University, who specialises in the study of ancient textiles, wrote that she does not think the ancient Arctic people, the Dorset and Thule, needed to be taught how to spin yarn: "It's a pretty intuitive thing to do."<ref name="CBC 2018"/>

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William W. Fitzhugh, director of the Arctic Studies Center at the Smithsonian Institution, and a senior scientist at the National Museum of Natural History, wrote that there is insufficient published evidence to support Sutherland's claims, and that the Dorset were using spun cordage by the 6th century.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

In 1992, Elizabeth Wayland Barber wrote that a piece of three-ply yarn that dates to the Paleolithic era, that ended about 10,000 BP, was found at the Lascaux caves in France. This yarn consisted of three s-twist strands that were z-plied, much like the way a three-ply yarn is made now, the Baffin Island yarn was a simple two-ply yarn.<ref name="barber1992" /> The eight sod buildings and artifacts found in the 1960s at L'Anse aux Meadows, located on the northern tip of Newfoundland Island, remains the only confirmed Norse site in North America outside of those found in Greenland.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Administration

Baffin Island is part of the Qikiqtaaluk Region.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Demographics

Template:Location map+ The population of Baffin Island at the 2021 Canadian census was 13,039<ref name=2021censusNU/> giving a population density of Template:Pop density. The population accounts for 67.37 per cent of the 19,355 people in the Qikiqtaaluk Region, 56.51 per cent of the population of the Arctic Archipelago, and 35.38 per cent of the population of Nunavut.<ref name=2021censusNU/><ref name=2021censusNWT>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

As of the 2016 Canadian census the majority, 74.06 per cent, were Indigenous peoples and 25.83 per cent were non-Indigenous.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> This compares to 88.85 per cent and 14.12 per cent Indigenous and non-Indigenous people for Nunavut as a whole. This lower percentage of Indigenous peoples on Baffin Island results from Iqaluit being 59.29 per cent Indigenous and 40.65 per cent non-Indigenous. Of the total population 72.17 per cent are Inuit, 0.92 per cent are First Nations, and 0.73 per cent are Métis. Except for a few First Nations people in Arctic Bay all non-Inuit Indigenous peoples live in Iqaluit.<ref name=AB2016>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=CR2016>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=IQ2016>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=KI2016>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=PA2016>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=PI2016>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=NU2016>Template:Cite web</ref>

Population figures
City or hamlet	2021<ref name=2021censusNU>Template:Cite web</ref>	2016<ref name="StatsCan2017">Template:Cite web</ref>	2011<ref name="StatsCan2017" />	2006<ref name="StatsCan2007">Template:Cite web</ref>	2001<ref name="StatsCan2007" />
Arctic Bay	944	868	823	690	646
Clyde River	1,181	1,053	934	820	785
Iqaluit	7,429	7,740	6,699	6,184	5,236
Kimmirut	426	389	455	411	433
Nanisivik	0	0	0	0	77
Pangnirtung	1,504	1,481	1,425	1,325	1,276
Pond Inlet	1,555	1,617	1,549	1,315	1,220

The hamlets of Kinngait (population: 1,396<ref name=2021censusNU/>) and Qikiqtarjuaq (population: 593<ref name=2021censusNU/>) do not lie on Baffin Island proper. Kinngait is situated on Dorset Island, which is located a few kilometres from the south eastern tip of the Foxe Peninsula. Similarly, Qikiqtarjuaq is situated on Broughton Island, which is located near the northern coast of the Cumberland Peninsula.

The Mary River Mine, an iron ore mine with an estimated 21-year life, at Mary River, may include building a railway and a port to transport the ore.<ref>The Mary River Project Template:Webarchive</ref> This may create a temporary mining community there.

Wildlife

Baffin Island is home to the Isulijarniq Migratory Bird Sanctuary and the Bowman Bay Wildlife Sanctuary.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

The Isulijarniq Migratory Bird Sanctuary, named for J. Dewey Soper, is located on the western side of Baffin Island from Bowman Bay to the Koukdjuak River. It is an Template:Cvt area that was classified a wetland of international importance via the Ramsar Convention on May 24, 1982. It is home of the world's largest goose colony and supports a large number of barren-ground caribou.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

The Bowman Bay Wildlife Sanctuary is also located on the western side of Baffin Island near Bowman Bay in the Great Plain of the Koukdjuak. It is Template:Cvt and is classified as Category IV (Habitat/Species Management Area) under the International Union for Conservation of Nature.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=mpa>Template:Cite web</ref>

Baffin Island has both year-round and summer visitor wildlife. On land, examples of year-round wildlife are barren-ground caribou,<ref name=BGC>Template:Cite web</ref> polar bear,<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Arctic fox, red fox, Arctic hare, lemming, and Baffin Island wolf.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Barren-ground caribou herds migrate in a limited range from northern Baffin Island down to the southern part in winter, even to the Frobisher Bay peninsula, next to Resolution Island, then migrating back north in the summer.<ref name=BGC/> In 2012, a survey of caribou herds found that the local population was only about 5,000, a decrease of as much as 95% from the 1990s.<ref>Icebergs, feasts and culture in Pond Inlet, Nunavut, CBC News</ref>

Arctic hares are found throughout Baffin Island. Their fur is pure white in winter and moults to a scruffy dark grey in summer. Arctic hares and lemmings are an important food source for Arctic and red foxes and Arctic wolves.<ref name=":72">Template:Cite web</ref><ref>Template:Cite journal</ref><ref>Template:Cite journal</ref>

Lemmings are also found throughout the island and are a major food source for foxes, wolves and the snowy owl. In the winter, lemmings dig complicated tunnel systems through the snow drifts to get to their food supply of dry grasses and lichens.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Predators

Polar bears can be found all along the coast of Baffin Island but are most prevalent where the sea ice takes the form of pack ice, where their major food sources—ringed seals (jar seal) and bearded seals—live. Polar bears mate approximately every year, bearing one to three cubs around March. Female polar bears may travel Template:Cvt inland to find a large snow bank where they dig a den in which to spend the winter and later give birth. The polar bear population here is one of 19 genetically distinct demes of the circumpolar region.<ref>C. Michael Hogan (2008) Polar Bear: Ursus maritimus, globalTwitcher.com, ed. Nicklas Stromberg</ref>

Red foxes can be found predominantly in the southernmost areas of Baffin Island, away from the harshest of winter weather, though some individuals may forage and explore elsewhere. The Arctic foxes can usually be found where polar bears venture on the fast ice close to land in their search for seals. Arctic foxes are scavengers and often follow polar bears to get their leavings. They also are known to take ground-nesting birds and their eggs and chicks, such as ducks, geese, ptarmigan, seagulls, shorebirds and even snowy owls, on occasion. On Baffin Island, Arctic foxes are sometimes trapped by Inuit, but there is no longer a robust fur industry.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

The Arctic wolf and the Baffin Island wolf, a grey wolf subspecies, are also year-round residents of Baffin Island. Unlike the grey wolf in southern climes, Arctic wolves often have smaller social networks, due to the barren landscape and minimal resources, thus resulting in unique hierarchies when compared with wolves found further south. For example, Arctic wolves often do not hunt in packs, although a male-female pair may hunt together.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Birds

Nesting birds are summer land visitors to Baffin Island. Baffin Island is one of the major nesting destinations from the Eastern and Mid-West flyways for many species of migrating birds. Waterfowl include eiders, Canada goose, snow goose, cackling goose, and brant goose (brent goose). Shore birds include the phalarope, various waders (commonly called sandpipers), murres including Brünnich's guillemot, and plovers. Gull species also nest on Baffin Island and they include Sabine's gull,<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> glaucous gull, herring gull and ivory gull.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref><ref name=arcticJ>Template:Cite journal</ref>

Long-range travellers include the Arctic tern, which migrates from Antarctica every spring. The varieties of water birds that nest here include coots, loons, mallards, and many other duck species.<ref name=arcticJ/>

Marine mammals

In the water (and under the ice), the main year-round species is the ringed seal subspecies, the Arctic ringed seal. It lives offshore within Template:Cvt of land. In winter, it makes a number of breathing holes in the ice, up to Template:Cvt thick. It visits each one often to keep the hole open and free from ice. In March, when a female is ready to whelp, she will enlarge one of the breathing holes that has snow over it, creating a small "igloo" where she whelps one or two pups. Within three weeks the pups are in the water and swimming. In summer, some ringed seals keep to a narrow territory about Template:Cvt along the shoreline but may move out into the open water. In the spring they spend more time on the surface of the ice.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Summer visitors

Water species that visit Baffin Island in the summer are:

Harp seals (or saddle-backed seals), which migrate from major breeding grounds off the coast of Labrador and the southeast coast of Greenland to Baffin Island for the summer.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref> Migrating at speeds of Template:Cvt, they all come up to breathe at the same time, then dive and swim up to Template:Cvt before surfacing again. They migrate in large pods consisting of a hundred or more seals to within Template:Cvt of the shoreline, which they then follow, feeding on crustaceans and fish.<ref>Template:Cite journal</ref>

Walruses, which do not migrate far off land in the winter. They merely follow the fast ice, or ice that is solidly attached to land, and stay ahead of it as the ice hardens further and further out to sea. As winter progresses, they will always remain where there is open water free of ice. When the ice melts, they move in to land and can be found basking on rocks close to shore. One of the largest walrus herds can be found in the Foxe Basin on the western side of Baffin Island.<ref>Template:Cite report</ref>

Beluga or white whales migrate along the coast of Baffin Island; some head north to the feeding grounds in the Davis Strait between Greenland and Baffin Island, or into the Hudson Strait or any of the bays and estuaries in between. Usually travelling in pods of two or more, they can often be found very close to shore (Template:Cvt or less). They come up to breathe every 30 seconds or so as they make their way along the coastline eating crustaceans.

Narwhals, which are known for the males' long, spiralling single tusk, can also be found along the coast of Baffin Island in the summer. Much like their beluga cousins, they may be found in pairs or even in a large pod of ten or more males, females and newborns. They also can be often found close to the shoreline, gracefully pointing their tusks skyward as they come up for air.

The largest summer visitor to Baffin Island is the bowhead whale. Found throughout the Arctic range, one group of bowhead whales is known to migrate to the Foxe Basin, a bay on the western side of Baffin Island.

Climate

Baffin Island lies in the path of a generally northerly airflow all year round, so, like much of northeastern Canada, it has an extremely cold climate. This brings very long, cold winters and foggy, cloudy summers, which have helped to add to the remoteness of the island. Spring thaw arrives much later than normal for a position straddling the Arctic Circle: around early June at Iqaluit in the south-east but around early- to mid-July on the north coast where glaciers run right down to sea level. Snow, even heavy snow, can occur at any time of the year, although it is least likely in July and early August. Average annual temperatures at Iqaluit are around Template:Cvt, compared with around Template:Cvt in Reykjavík,<ref group="maps">Reykjavík, Template:Coord</ref> which is at a similar latitude.<ref>GHCN average monthly temperatures, GISS data for 1971–2000, Goddard Institute for Space Studies</ref>

Sea ice surrounds the island for most of the year and only disappears completely from the north coast for short, unpredictable periods from mid- to late June until the end of September.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

Most of Baffin Island lies north of the Arctic Circle—all communities from Pangnirtung northwards have polar night in winter and midnight sun in summer. The eastern community of Clyde River has twilight instead of night from April 26 until May 13, continuous sunlight for 2Template:Frac months from May 14 to July 28, then twilight instead of night from July 29 until August 16. This gives the community just over 3Template:Frac months without true night. In the winter, the sun sets on November 22 and does not rise again until January 19 of the next year. Pond Inlet has civil twilight from December 16 to December 26. However, there is twilight for at least 4 hours per day, unlike places such as Eureka.<ref>Template:Cite web Note: Use "Sunrise/sunset, full year (civil twilight)" in the first box; "By latitude and longitude" in the second box; degrees 79 minutes 59 and north with 85 and 57 west; time zone is Eastern Time</ref>

Like most of Nunavut and the Canadian Arctic, Baffin Island has a tundra climate (Köppen climate classification ET), although the highest ice caps have an ice cap climate (EF). The sea is frozen for most of the year, and only a few months are above freezing. There can be seasonal lag in spring.

The Barnes Ice Cap, in the middle of the island, has been retreating since at least the early 1960s, when the Geographical Branch of the then Department of Mines and Technical Surveys sent a three-man survey team to the area to measure isostatic rebound and cross-valley features of the Isortoq River.<ref>Template:Cite journal</ref> Although in the 1970s parts of Baffin Island failed to have the usual ice-free period in the summer.<ref>Template:Cite book</ref>

Climate tables from south to north Template:Iqaluit weatherbox Template:Clyde River weatherbox Template:Pond Inlet weatherbox Template:Nanisivik weatherbox

Economic resources

The Hall Peninsula of southern Baffin Island includes the Chidliak Kimberlite Province, which had been found to include kimberlite pipes of diamond-bearing kimberlite.<ref name=Pell>Pell, J., Grütter H., Neilson S., Lockhart, G., Dempsey, S. and Grenon, H. 2013. Exploration and discovery of the Chidliak Kimberlite Province, Baffin Island, Nunavut: Canada's newest diamond district. Proceedings of the 10th International Kimberlite Conference, Bangalore; Springer, New Delhi; extended abstract, 4 p.</ref>

The Mary River iron ore mine began operating in 2015, and shipped 4.2 million tonnes of iron ore in 2023.<ref>Template:Cite news</ref>

In popular culture

The White Dawn is a 1974 film set on and filmed on Baffin Island. All performers except three Hollywood actors were Inuit who spoke their own language.<ref name =Sanjek>Template:Cite news</ref>

The opening scene of the 1977 James Bond film, The Spy Who Loved Me, featuring a cliff jump and parachute drop on skis, was filmed at Mount Asgard in Auyuittuq National Park on Baffin Island.<ref>Template:Cite web</ref>

The Polar Star Couloir, on Mount Beluga in the Kangiqtualuk Uqquqti (Sam Ford Fjord) area near Clyde River, is listed in Fifty Classic Ski Descents of North America as a backcountry skiing feature.<ref>Chris Davenport; Art Burrows; Penn Newhard, eds. (2010). Fifty Classic Ski Descents of North America. Capitol Peak Publishing.</ref>

Notes

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References

Citations

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Maps

External links

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Logbooks of the ship "Rosie" (1924-1925) at Dartmouth College Library
Logbooks of the schooner "Vera" (1920) at Dartmouth College Library
Nunavut Tourism

Template:Arctic Cordillera Template:Islands of the Qikiqtaaluk Region Template:World's largest islands Template:Subject bar Template:Authority control